Live from...Paris Fashion Week, Day 4

Lanvin

Taking the concept of a man's wardrobe as a uniform, Alber Elbaz and Lucas Ossendrijver rewrote the menswear rules. Their visionary spring/summer collection succeeded where others have failed, injecting an intrinsic sense of modernity into their subtly revamped silhouettes and quirky proportion play.

The look: A man's wardrobe as a uniform

Silhouette: Languid and layered with a new dropped shoulderline and mismatched proportion play

Key items: The tunic or elongated shell top was confirmed as one of next summer's key items, here worked in leather or in jersey with a leather front panel, providing the season's new layering pieces when teamed with SB tailoring, shorts or narrow straight-legged pants. The boxy commuter coat too was here in spades, zipped in leather – occasionally without sleeves – wet-look patent or worked in colour-blocked shades of bone and string with a high funnel neckline. Colour-blocking updated basic shirt shapes too, while elsewhere the season's emerging hot item, the zipped blouson/shirt hybrid, was worked as an integral part of languid tailored looks. A new dropped shoulderline added soft volume to SB jackets and there was a change of pace, with youthful military jackets and frockcoats teamed with techno-ethnic printed low-rise pants or soft ombréd jersey leggings

Colour: A masculine palette of summer darks punctuated with the odd mid-tone brights we have seen elsewhere in Paris this week. Think saxe blue, watermelon and old gold layered on black, charcoal, midnight, burgundy, bark and espresso, with a neutral level of washed-out tones including pebble, stone, pigeon grey and manilla

Fabric & knit: Leather, patent, languid silk and viscose blends, silk tweed, brushed wool, jersey, bibbed jersey, check shirtings, light melanged worsteds

Print & pattern: Blazer stripes, micro check shirtings, subtle engineered ombré placements, techno ethnic prints

Details & trims: Exposed zips, military buttons, raw edges

Footwear: Military boots, suede lace-ups, sandals

Accessories: Rumpled scarves, military belts, small cross-body envelope bags on skinny straps, nylon totes, iPad case bags, slim ties, wooden beads

Roland Mouret Mr

Laidback masculine elegance from Roland Mouret for his eponymous Mr label. The designer mined the fashion archive for inspiration, working fluid 40s silhouettes by way of the 70s, with lean torsos balancing wide full-legged pant shapes, to create a 70s-style resort look.

The look: Fashion archive

Silhouette: Nipped waists and lean torsos teamed with fluid volume in bottomweights

Key items: The fluid pleat-front pant and wide-legged tailored short were at the heart of this collection, teamed with nipped-waist 2SBs or DB jackets, layered over torso-tickling vests. Neatly styled Harringtons and softly belted safari jackets brought a casual look into play; the perfect jacket weights to layer over resort-style perforated jersey and fine-gauge knitwear or buttondown polo shirts

Colour: French navy, ink, white, string, pebble grey, old gold, vivid chrome yellow, saxe blue, espresso, brilliant cobalt blue, olive, straw and flashes of turquoise and blush for top weights

Fabric & knit: Luxe summer tweed, silk, perforated jersey, perforated knits, fine-gauge knits

Print & pattern: A subtle burnout botanical motif on jersey

Details & trims: Exposed zips

Footwear: White or coloured lace-ups

Accessories: Straw hats

Paul Smith

With rock 'n' roll emerging as a key reference this season, it was surprising to see Paul Smith bypass the look when so often the 60s and 70s music scene has been a favoured inspiration for him. Instead Smith chose commerciality over costume, with a collection built upon saleable items. His mot du jour for summer 2012? Everything was spliced, colour-blocked, pieced and panelled.

The look: Easy believable dressing

Silhouette: Slim but casual

Key items: Pants were either slim and straight with a cropped turn-up or tapered from a loose-fitting dropped crotch, also spotted were a pair of luxe silk joggers tapering to a ribbed ankle cuff; tailored jackets featured spliced leather sleeves or a patchwork of matt-shine panels, while outerwear - including hooded car coats, collarless baseball jackets and odd back-to-front windcheaters - were casually layered over granddad tees, super-fine jersey shirts and sky blue shirt-and-tie combos with neat buttondown collars, and occasionally denim overhead shirts added a casual top layer; the jean jacket also proved a key item, arriving in several fabrics from shiny ink-blue satin to neat denim with spliced leather sleeves

Colour: Offbeat combinations of bright orange with navy, sky blue and drab neutrals, or washed terracotta pink and shadowy merlot with camel and navy; a final passage of tonal blues

Fabric & knit: Cotton, silk, satin, leather, super-fine jersey, nylon and ciré, denim, silk mohair suiting, heathered grey yarns

Print & pattern: Shadowy shaded effects, a multicoloured shattered shard print

Details & trims: Spliced leather sleeves, tonal panelling, colour-blocking, back-to-front hoods

Footwear: Kiltie-fringed formal shoes with cutaway sides and buckled strap, leopard spotted casual lace-up shoes, brogues in denim or two-tone suede

Accessories: Round sunglasses, narrow-trimmed trilbies, blunt-ended ties, colour-blocked squashy leather bags

Acne

It was another stellar showing from Jonny Johansson at Swedish denim label Acne, where the menswear collections are going from strength to strength, confirming the label's place on the Paris fashion schedule. Taking functionalism and Swedish purity as inspiration, Johansson translated that into retro sportswear with a smart-casual mix.

The look: 70s sportif

Silhouette: Oversized uppers with tapered legs

Key items: True sports pieces including over-head windcheaters, cycling shorts and boxy sweatshirts peppered the collection, while suede bombers, a knitted viscose track suit and wide-cut turtleneck tops moved the collection into retro sportswear territory; further 70s styling arrived via the tapered and cropped pant shapes that had that pyjama-like quality associated with retro resortwear; also of note were the over-head tops in raw suede, fly-front commuter coats and ribbed knit sweaters. Denim is a brand focus for Acne and highlights included the smart long-rise denim trousers and the jean jacket – which is fast becoming a key item from Paris – presented here with a contrast collar and oversized construction

Colour: A palette of denim blues with black, mid-tone red, teal and tan, with interesting combinations of salmon pink, camel and mink grey with a single shot of mint

Fabric & knit: Denim, raw suede, textured linen, double knit viscose, ribbed cotton knits, traditional cable knit, nylon and polyester, sweatshirting, Lycra and neoprene techno textiles, treated cottons

Print & pattern: Splotchy camo, dense florals

Details & trims: Round-tipped shirt collars, zip closures, suede knee patches, sweatshirt stitching/overlocking, elongated shawl tux collar

Footwear: Matt leather slip-ons, kiltie-fringed loafers; several leather sandal shapes including thong and toe loop, criss-cross and kiltie fringed

Accessories: Boxy suede rucksack, oversized bucket bag in panelled leather/suede, squashy clutch bags, zippered attachés; suede or denim baseball caps

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Live From... London Fashion Week, Day 3

Mulberry

Mulberry has emerged as the hottest label to watch in terms of all that is quintessentially British in the international fashion arena. With its concentration on good design, immaculate finish and quality fabrications, along with its ever-expanding range of must-have accessories, this is the name that could topple Burberry from its position as the ultimate British aspirational brand. 

The look: Country classics with a twist
Silhouette: Subtle structured shapes and ladylike longer lengths
Key items: Luxurious outerwear included quilted macs with shearling linings, easy trench coats, boyfriend jackets, lambskin poacher jackets and duffels, or the plush touch of a Toscana lamb gilet. All perfect to throw over culottes, classic trousers, feminine printed blouses, sweeping long skirts and ladylike shirtdresses with pleated skirts and bow-tied necklines
Colour: The palette reflected the colours of the countryside, with mole greys, rich russet or conker browns and heathered lilacs, with accents of brilliant kelly green, foxglove pink, lavender and pheasant green
Fabric & knit: Toscana lamb, waxy sheepskin, quilted cotton, wool-cotton blends, herringbone tweeds, stretch wool, double silk georgette, metallic crepe, double-faced silk, corduroy, rabbit, cashmere, charmeuse, jacquard silk
Print & pattern: Prints too evoked a rustic spirit, featuring woodland imagery - think squirrels, birds and flowers contrasted with a peace-and-love jaquarded silk for an urbane urban touch
Details & trims: Ski-clip-style gilt hardware closures on outerwear and jackets
Footwear: Ankle boots with smooth wooden wedges and tilly-buckle hardware in rich colours and textures including tweed, jumbo cord, grained metallic leather and lambskin
Accessories: The heritage Bayswater and Bayswater satchel with poacher-style straps; stud closures and a new across-body strap; double-chain wrapped handle bags; new hardware details to update the Alexa; butter-soft quilted leathers and a conker-coloured patent highlighted some of the latest must-have bags

Acne

From the quintessential Britishness of the Mulberry show, the fashion pack was whisked straight to the urban gritty show space of Acne, the fashionista’s go-to brand, with its signature androgynous style reworked in a mix of unexpected fabrications and fashion colours.

The look: Urban girls
Silhouette: Relaxed and boxy
Key items: The cropped pant manifested itself in butter-soft leather to team with throw-on tie-belt wrap coats, big cocooning shearlings or a silver leather shell top sporting a dare-to-bare sheer back. Leather dungarees and a workwear-inspired boilersuit added to the urban vibe, along with workwear jackets and a roomy biker. A more decorative element came into play, with the cloqué skirts worn with a mannish denim shirt or in the side-split palazzo pants and their matching maxiskirt. And there was a luxe appeal in the drapey camel tunic knit and cropped leather biker skirt
Colour: Urban blues and greys, burgundy, rose and pale shell pink, hyacinth, pea green, marigold and dijonFabric & knit: Leather, drills, denim and cloqué, tulle overlays, silk velvet, shearling
Footwear: Wooden-heeled platform sandals in patent or silver, camel-coloured wedge-heeled broguesAccessories: Natural-coloured pop socks

Jasper Conran

After last season’s acclaimed resort-inspired collection, Jasper Conran turned to a more minimal, structured look for autumn/winter, teaming his rigorous tailoring with slick minimal modernism with a strong graphic appeal.

The look: 60s chic
Silhouette: Modern and minimal
Key items: Strong graphic lines came into play for the collection’s simple tank dresses and A-line skirts, worked in a variety of reptile-inspired patterns, or overlaid in sheer mesh. That same minimalist look was worked into hip-belted scalloped-hem shifts and a micro-shorts all-in-one. DB tailoring, an immaculate tuxedo jacket and a grey reefer-style skirt suit had a structured appeal, while shimmering sequins, rectangular paillettes and an ostrich-feathered coat were worked into sparse lines for a less-is-more appeal for evening Colour: Intensely saturated oxblood red and espresso, punctuated with accents of amethyst and deep inky blues
Fabric & knit: Emerging fabric trends were addressed in the use of silky calfskin and plush Toscana lamb, complementing wool jersey, viscose jersey, silk crepes, suede, silk tulle, cashmere, soft leathers and silk chiffons
Print & pattern: This was more about surface decoration than print, with reptilian patterns worked in bold black and white combinations, which were moulded or stitched and carved
Details & trims: Self-covered hip belts, contrast top stitching, fringed and tiled leather and suede, lacing details
Footwear: Square-toed flat pumps in patent or satin, over-the-knee boots in suede or croc effectsAccessories: Flowing head scarves, bucket hats, jersey beanies, shoulder bags with Perspex or acrylic trims, suede hip belts, opaque tights, Toscana-lamb clutch bags

Nicole Farhi

Nicole Farhi continued her exploration with innovative fabrics for her immaculate autumn/winter collection, full of those items that have made her one of the stalwarts of London Fashion Week - the perfectly cut trouser, great outerwear and covetable knits. 

The look: Streamlined and functional
Silhouette: Minimal and linear but softly structured
Key items: Farhi cuts a mean pant, and this season they came with a masculine full leg and a high cummerbund waist, the perfect team mates for her fitted metallised herringbone tweed jackets or her jersey tops, which shimmered with moulded sequins. Bonded knits took traditional Aran structures into a new dimension, and there was a play on the masculine shirt, here cut in oversized shapes with a flowing caped back or with pintucked details. Outerwear is another strong suit with this label, and the easy kimono wraps and unstructured wide-cut silhouettes didn’t disappoint. Sinuous jersey dresses featured coiled zips, tracing curvilinear seams or the spine of a floorlength shift, and for evening columnar dresses in chainmail yarns or the contrast of billowing crystal-pleated floor-sweeping skirts
Colour: A tightly focused palette of lamp black, inky midnight blue, deep oxblood and winter white, with a flash of vermilion red
Fabric & knit: Innovative finishes and techniques took traditional wools and meltons into another stratosphere, with bonded, laminated, boiled and pressed effects. Herringbone tweed had a silvery metallic finish, while calfskin, moleskin and suede added a tactile touch among Farhi’s moulded and laminated sequins
Details & trims: Exposed coiled zips, cutout backs, contrast edging
Footwear: Laced suede needle-heeled ankle boots, ponyskin ankle boots
Accessories: White hosiery

Unique

With a new venue, Anna Wintour and a cast of London it-girls front row, expectations were running high at Topshop Unique’s autumn/winter showing for a collection that was inspired by post-depression 30s America - a theme that offered scope for looks that veered from stevedores to Hollywood glamour queens, via showgirls and sultry Art Deco sirens. 

The look: 30s Americana
Silhouette: Va-va-vroom meets hello sailor
Key items: The collection was a cavalcade of looks and key items too long to list, but key pieces included matelot pants and skirts, sailor tops and shirtdresses, laced-back hotpants, a masculine trench coat and ticking western-style jeanswear. Flippy bias dresses and long-line pencil skirts sometimes veered towards a strict 40s silhouette, and there was a play on Cruella de Vil, with a posse of faux furs and exaggerated fur trims. One standout dress was a simple devoré shift with a burn-out of the Brooklyn Bridge
Colour: Black and white, warm gingers, camel and a raft of yellows, silver
Fabric & knit: Faux furs by the yard from fake mink to dalmatian-print ponyskin, cocooning shearling, rubber-backed canvas, ticking stripes, mohair, flocked Lurex, striped jersey, satin, devoré and marabou, silver leather
Print & pattern: Dalmatian spots, a micro dog-print repeat, Hollywood logos, Manhattan-skyline motif
Details & trims: Deco appliqués
Footwear: High stomping metallic Mary-Janes, dalmatian-patterned heeled ankle boots
Accessories: Lace hosiery and ankle socks


Antonio Berardi

For winter, Antonio Berardi aimed to break out of his after-six reputation with a new focus on daywear and, more particularly, outerwear. And for the first part of the show he did just that, layering coats, jackets and heavy knitwear to chunky extremes before giving way to his more familiar high-octane evening looks. “I wanted it to be luxurious, but it was tougher than usual,” said Berardi. “I wanted it to feel like London.” 

The look: Statement luxury
Silhouette: Bulky outerwear created heavily proportioned uppers layered atop strictly tailored shapes
Key items: In line with the season so far, outerwear was a key focus for Berardi as he layered jackets and coats in bulky proportion play - a cropped biker with oversized revers and bullion-beaded sleeves sat atop a flare-skirted wrap coat, while a heavy curly lamb jacket with cropped sleeves was styled atop a long grey wool coat, both with hugely exaggerated revers. Beneath these heavy layers came neatly tailored cropped wool pants worn with crystal-studded poloneck jumpers, or folded skater skirts. As the looks moved toward cocktail hour, there were panelled and contoured sheaths in optic black and white, tailored dresses with daringly exposed sheer lace panels at the chest, and a strictly tailored midnight blue pantsuit, its raglan-sleeved jacket featuring a sheer lace back. For full-on evening looks there were lean column gowns in molten metallic Lurex
Colours: Winter white, intense midnight blue, slate and smoke greys, bright pea green and brash metallic red and gold
Fabric & knit: Laser-cut/punched wool, crystal-studded ribbed knits, textured wool jacquards with a scratched patina, cashmere, double-faced silk, organza, fine Chantilly lace, over-dyed Lurex, Mongolian lamb and shaved mink
Details & trims: Sculptural fold-back revers and collar details, dropped shoulders and sleeve heads, exaggerated back cowl drapes, jewel-striped sleeves, heavy studded hardware on sleeves and hems, punched wool mesh, crinkle pleats, eyelet studding, sheer lace panels
Footwear: Multi-strap heels with extended buckle straps by Manolo Blahnik, in lime suede or black patent leather
Accessories: Fine jewellery by Annina Vogel

Matthew Williamson

The opening exit set the tone for the show - a patchworked ethnic-textile parka with leather sleeves and fox-fur hood, worn with chunky buckled biker boots. This was Williamson’s pretty hippy-chick going through a tough-girl phase. 

The look: Boho goes biker
Silhouette: Short and leggy
Key items: The leather-sleeved woven textile parka, patched zip-fly leather pants with quilted knees, and a host of motocross biker jackets gave the collection its tougher edge, while blanket coats, shaded Mongolian-lamb chubbies and gilets were more familiar Williamson boho. Signature minidresses were rife - either printed, panelled or featuring embroidered yokes - while the wrap-over miniskirt and softly tapered peg pants had strong commercial potential. Elsewhere there were pin-tucked sheer shirts, tailored jackets featuring a slashed shoulder detail, and that longer-length T-shirt shape that has been is fast becoming one of London’s key pieces
Colours: Clashing coral, pink and red, signature nude, shaded olive, smoky greys, and flashes of bright turquoise and royal blue
Fabric & knit: Degradé curly Mongolian lamb and bouncy silver fox furs, marabou, silky micro-patterned jacquards, silk, chiffon, tinsel-like Lurex, quilted leather, wool, patchworked wovens
Print & pattern: Black-and-white checkerboard squares and zigzags, kaleidoscope/mirrored digital prints, a mint-on-nude floral, diffused animalia
Details & trims: Marabou fringing, pin-tucked pleats, leather edging on blanket coats, crewel embroideriesFootwear: Buckled clog boots, cutout satin sandals
Accessories: Knitted fur scarves, structured metal through-belt on chiffon gown

Vivienne Westwood Red Label

Drawing inspiration from the characters that populate west London’s famous Portobello Market, Vivienne Westwood and Red Label designer Murray Blewett’s collection of individual looks worked best when simply styled. 

The look: Anything goes
Silhouette: Chaotically layered, twisted and swagged
Key items: Amid the eclectic layers of tartan mini-kilts, ribbed-cuff bloomer shorts, twist-seamed skirts and off-centre button-up shirts, there was much to take away from the collection - simple slouch-fit sweater dresses, high-waist tulip skirts and chalk-striped mannish pants. Best were the dresses that were spared the trash-bag styling - a stunning navy-blue silk blouson dress with delicately gathered full skirt and draped shoulder, or the collared halter in a bronze leopard-patterned taffeta
Colours: A concentration of sludgy browns, olive drab, greige, fawn, mustard and maroon, with richer shadings of grenadine red and bronze metallics. Bursts of royal blue, turquoise and vermilion worked as here-and-there highlights
Fabric & knit: A mix-and-match grab-bag of textiles and textures - patchworked checks and signature tartans in red-blue colourways, chalk-stripe suitings, wool, silk, velvet, wool jacquards, thin jersey, blue broadcloth, charcoal flannel, metallic leopard jacquard, gold brocade
Print & pattern: Knitted squiggle stripes, gold over-painted effects
Details & trims: Neon feather tufts, fuchsia satin blazer trim
Footwear: Tall fur boots, bow-trimmed kitten-heeled mules, suede courts decorated with a rosette, tartan willies, leather ankle boots
Accessories: Silk headscarves, strings of pearls and a plethora of headwear including cable-knit beanies, a feathered alpine hat and overblown formal hats such as bowlers or trilbies


Richard Nicoll

Tired of waisted silhouettes, Richard Nicoll looked to the 1920s as inspiration for elongated lengths and dropped waists, fused with his signature sportswear directions. 

The look: A refined sports-glamour fusion
Silhouette: High-low columns and proportional layering
Key items: Sporty dropped-waist knee-length parkas with face-framing collars and panelled raglan-sleeved blouson jackets layered over casually wide pants or cuffed semi-sheer track pants, while long-line sweatshirts were teamed with midi-length skirts for an elongated silhouette. Tops included collarless tunic-length shirts, blouses featuring fly-away fins of parachute silk, and long satin cycling T-shirts emblazoned with crystal-beaded names
Colours: Olive with mustard, nude with ghost white, shades of peach and tonal blues - petrol, Prussian and inky midnight
Fabric & knit: Merino wool, iridescent techno nylons, chiffon and georgette, scratched-effect jacquards, delicate sheers, molten metallic Lurex, quilted double-face, velvet
Details & trims: Elasticated hems and cuffs, face-framing drawstring collars, high-low hems and tails, crystal beaded typography (Latin names of rare moths), skinny cutaway halternecks, colour- or fabric-blocked raglan sleeves
Footwear: Velvet T-bar peep toes


Temperley London

As the brand enters its 10th year of business, Alice Temperley brought the label back to its core focus of eveningwear for winter 2011. 

The look: Decadent after-six partywear with a Deco feel
Silhouette: Fishtails and dropped flares with some hourglass waists
Key items: The swishy skater skirts seen elsewhere this week arrived as knee-length fit-and-flare dresses, which contrasted with the longer, form-following lines of the tailored cocktail sheaths and fishtail column gowns. Tailoring arrived as palazzo-pant jumpsuits, and a tux redux comprising cropped jacket and long peg pant. Other party ensembles included flat-front satin flared pants paired with a metallic halterneck top, or a ruffle-shouldered corset top and sheer maxidresses. The occasional daytime look saw skin-tight leather leggings paired with knitwear - either a popcorn-stitch hooded poncho or a ruffle-shouldered cardiganColours: Ghostly pales of peach, blush, skin pink and white, punctuated with black, bronze metallics and a rich ruby red
Fabric & knit: Satin, watery silks, tulle, spotted point d’esprit, mid-gauge knits and a chunky popcorn stitch, silk twill, glittery Lurex metallics
Print & pattern: A digital Venetian fan print used as a border placement
Details & trims: Crystal embroideries, black star-embroidered sheers, three-dimensional rosette appliqués, folded ruffles created cape sleeves, crochet tiers, tiered ruffle hems
Footwear: Metal-heeled ankle boots
Accessories: A wide leather waspie belt

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Live From... Paris Menswear, Day 4

Lanvin

Several of the week’s emerging trends were confirmed at Lucas Ossendrijver’s showing for Lanvin, where the designer played with dressed-up looks and mismatched proportional layering. 

The look: Retro glamour
Silhouette: Narrow, layered and reed thin contrasted with volume through the torso
Key items: Fluid wide-cut flat-front pants helped determine the new silhouette, teamed with narrow close-cut coats and jackets - best as a retro-styled DB or 1SB in soft washed brights or velvet. Elsewhere it was all about leggings or skinny pants and minimal knee-length tunics, styled with flat fronts (this is the season of hidden fastenings) or simple shell tops, both often layered under rounded puffa jackets for a mismatched silhouette and a play on proportion. There was a sense of asymmetry too in the narrow DB coats, which came with hidden magnet closures or biker-style zips - another emerging trend this season.
Colour: All shades of grey, black and inky navy, alabaster, camel, soft khaki or olive, washed brick and mallard green, taupe and aurbergine
Fabric & knit: Like many designers this season, Ossendrijver opted for bonded fabrics to create a sculpted silhouette. He offset that with luxurious flannels and cashmeres, tweed, leather, velvet and satin
Print & pattern: A grey and camel fragmented geometric pattern, teamed with a coordinating print that was overprinted in darker grey
Details & trims: Flat-fly fronts, hidden magnet closures, epaulettes, contrast facings
Footwear: Loafers in grey or tan leather or suede; pale leather hiking boots
Accessories: Striped club ties, narrow bow ties, document cases, toning gloves (newest in pale colours), felt fedoras


Yves Saint Laurent

A more youthful look underpinned the Yves Saint Laurent autumn/winter collection, as Stefano Pilati opted for a reed-thin silhouette with subtle Edwardiana teddy-boy influences, contrasted with overscaled outerwear.

The look: Young blade
Silhouette: Reed thin and elongated contrasted with big, overscaled, boxy outerwear
Key items: Tailoring formed the core of the collection, reworked as high-buttoned 2SBs, creating the illusion of a longer jacket length. Contrast trims and high-set narrow shawl collars lent the look an Edwardiana-inspired teddy-boy feel. A contrasting silhouette came in the form of lean DBs with narrow six-button placements. Pant shapes were cropped and narrow, contrasting with boxy square-cut outerwear shapes featuring Pilati’s new sloping shoulderline - a look that also transcended to his tailoring. Coloured plain-dye shirts - with micro collars - and fine-gauge knits completed the look
Colour: A palette of shaded greys, black, pine green, aubergine and tonal navy blues, from ink through to softer French navy, highlighted with accents of absinthe, old gold and pumpkin used for shirtings and fine-gauge knits
Fabric & knit: Felted wools, shadow checks, cashmere and flannels
Details & trims: Contrast velvet collars and pocket details, narrow revers and shaved shawl collars
Footwear: High-shine shoes on a heavy patterned unit

Acne

A surprisingly low-key look from Acne, with underplayed tailoring and an emphasis on the long-line coat , which when teamed with simple knits created a youthful sartorial appeal. 

The look: The Acne boy grows up
Silhouette: Long-line and classic
Key items: The long overcoat was a key feature, worked as classic DBs or even as a reproportioned duffle, layered over narrow cropped and cuffed tailored pants. Tailoring was another key option, coming as low-break SBs or with a narrow shawl collar, teamed with fine-gauge knits in winter brights. Contrasting shirt tails peeped from under sweaters or sweatshirts, baring travel-destination logos such as Rio de Janeiro, Paris and New York. Fine-gauge twinsets were another key look, with asymmetric detailing
Colour: A classic palette of charcoal, black, alabaster and camel, with accents of raspberry, bright turquoise, pumpkin and cobalt
Fabric & knit: Bonded wools, herringbone tweed, cotton shirtings, wool twill, marled sweatshirting. Fine-gauge and lofty heavy-gauge knits
Print & pattern: Travel-destination logos on sweats
Details & trims: Shawl collars, low-break points
Footwear: Chelsea boots in leather, or patent classic oxfords
Accessories: Soft shoppers, document cases

Bill Tornade

Bill Tornade was marching to a military beat this season - one with a Scottish tune, as traditional tartans clashed with army greatcoats and battle jackets.
The look: The tartan army
Silhouette: Neat but relaxedKey items: The DB greatcoat, ¾ trench and DB military battle jacket or reefer - some with luxe fur collars and a horizontal zip at the hem band. Kilts offered an alternative to the narrow cropped cuffed pants that ran through the collection teamed with novelty knits, knitted shirts, casual jackets or neat SB tailoring.
Colour: Black and grey, khaki and camel, scarletFabric & knit: Traditional tartans, flannel, waxed cottons, leather
Print & pattern: Woven plaids, a trompe l’oeil intarsia featuring braces
Details & trims: Military badges, safety pins, zips on shirts and running horizontally round the hip of a greatcoat or the waistband of jackets
Footwear: Chelsea boots, laced military boots
Accessories: Satin scarves adorned with safety pins

Paul Smith

There was an easy casualness to Paul Smith’s latest menswear offering, his signature tailoring offset with baggy cardigans and untucked, raw-edged shirts. 

The look: Thrown-together nonchalance
Silhouette: Slim-legged and casually layered
Key items: Long quilted parkas with shearling hoods; duffel coats with off-centre toggled closures; tailored crombies with zipped feature collars; baseball jackets and sloppy oversized cardigans layered atop patchworked print or collarless chambray shirts. Tailored trousers are lean and cropped or long-rise and generously cut, while casual options include motocross-style zipped pants and tapered chinos. Long, thick knit cardigan coats featuring dressy peaked lapels
Colour: Camel, sky blue, silver and a range of mid-level greys, with pops of titanium blue, sunshine yellow and vermillion
Fabric & knit: Flannel, micro-check wools, chalk-stripe suiting, chambray shirting, cashmere blends, mohair, marled yarn knits, tufted teddy furs, waffle-like textured knits, leather, suede and shearling
Print & pattern: Grayscale animal print, faded marbling, spliced and patchworked prints, polka dots
Details & trims: Shearling hoods, raw-edge shirts, spliced leather jacket sleeves, oversized popper fastenings, knee patches, triple zipped knee details, toggles, zip-trimmed shawl collars
Footwear: Lace-up boots with double-buckled contrast leather ankle strap, derby ankle boots, plain pull-on boots
Accessories: Squashy unstructured totes and holdalls, knitted fishermen’s beanies, retro goggle-like sunglasses, wishbone pendant

Thom Browne 

The 18th century is rich pickings for a designer partial to a cropped trouser or two, and as such Thom Browne revelled in breeches and knickerbockers for winter. Couple that with layered coats, long capes and pouffy leg-of-mutton shirts, and it’s a recipe for fashion-themed high jinks. 

The look: 18th century eccentricity
Silhouette: Voluminous puffs and cuffs
Key items: Historically inspired breeches and knickerbockers, floor-sweeping coats, edged frock coats and puff-sleeved shirts. High-breaking 4SB crombies were slim and neatly tailored, while blazers and jackets were short and shrunken. Sleeveless jackets and blazers with spliced or contrast-knitted sleeves were on trend; tailored trousers were cropped and cuffed
Colour: Signature red, white and blue; mid-level greys, white and black; grass green and burgundy
Fabric & knit: Mix-and-match checks including plaids, Argyle diamonds, windowpane and gingham; astrakhan, ermine and curly lamb fur; mohair, velvet
Print & pattern: Signature woven checks, double stripe
Details & trims: Speckled feather trouser cuffs, red/white/blue striped ribbon trims, contrast sleeves sometimes knitted
Footwear: Plain zip-up ankle boots, lace-up army boots, monk-strap shoes
Accessories: Buckled gauntlet gloves, cable-knitted snoods, shrunken pork-pie hats, top hats and canes, chunky knitted scarves and headbands, collegiate striped ties, wire-framed round sunglasses in two sizes

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