Live From... Milan Fashion Week, Day 2

Vivienne Westwood

            

Political themes are a Westwood hallmark, but the irreverent designer swapped cause for commercial this season with an Olympic narrative that will be bang on the money for 2012.
London is Westwood's stomping ground, so no wonder the sporting event became her focus for next summer – giving rise to a wealth of Olympic-themed graphic tees that are sure to cross the winning line.

The look: Olympic heroes

Silhouette: Stocky and athletic

Key items: Westwood's signature English tailoring, including broad three-piece suits worn with open-necked shirts, are peppered with sporty pieces such as the dropped-crotch shorts worn with themed graphic tees, zip-through cardigans with ribbed welts at hem and cuffs, and a raglan-sleeved sweatshirt teamed with baggy track pants. T-shirts are so oversized they become smock-like tunics. Elsewhere there are pieced shirts with contrast collars and sleeves, tailored blazers with cutaway closures and shiny evening suits with cropped pants

Colour: Cool greys and chalky neutrals, steel and rich ink blues, plum and black

Fabric & knit: Signature tartan and plaid, including a hand-drawn version, jersey, cotton and sweatshirting, wet-look velour, shiny wool mohair, lustrous silks, chalkstripe suiting, a range of denims, sporty nylon

Print & pattern: Olympic torch motif in foil transfer, signature orbs in Olympic ring colours and placement, trompe l’oeil medals graphic placement, a hand-drawn London Olympics conversational, Grecian Olympiads, stars

Footwear:  Metallic gladiator sandals, satin slip-ons with bows, plastic loafers, double-strap flat Mary Janes, lace-up shoes styled with long socks

Accessories: Pin badges, orb pendants, rosettes worn as key rings or lapel pins, a battered straw trilby and a Mr T baseball cap; printed cotton shoppers, two-handles laptop bags

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Live From... Paris Fashion Week, Day 4

Christian Dior

            

There was no denying the emotional charge at Dior yesterday, from theatmospheric set – an ornate salon with ice-dusted mirrors bathed in an eerieblue light – to Sidney Toledano’s loaded speech, and the ensemble of atelierswho replaced the disgraced designer John Galliano for the final bow. Even thecollection seemed to lack the usual spirit, despite baring obvious Gallianohallmarks. This was a sad swan song for Galliano, perhaps best articulated bythe long and lingering kiss the final model blew out into the cold Parisianair. “The heart of the House of Dior, which beats unseen, is made up of itsteams and studios, of its seamstresses and craftsmen,” said Sidney Toledano.“What you are going to see now is the result of the extraordinary, creative andmarvellous efforts of these loyal, hardworking people.”

The look: Highway men and fair maidens

Silhouette: Flirty fit-and-flare, largely short and swingy

Key items: As ever with Galliano a historical influence is key,transpiring here as bow-trimmed knickerbockers and short pouffy bloomer shorts,sweeping maxi capes and coats, and off-the-shoulder velvet tops and dresses.But putting costume aside, there were short-and-swingy full or pleated skirtstopped with neat tailored jackets or flared princess coats, and oversizedT-shirt tops including one in pink-dyed python. Looks were also layered withfluffy fur or feathered jackets, and shrug-on hand-knit cardigans, whileflounces of tiered ruffles for baby-doll dresses and blouses added signatureromance. The deshabillé finale comprised typically negligée-inspired dresses inembroidered, tiered or millefeuille ruffled sheers

Colour: Intense Prussian blue with rich bordeaux red, loden greenand charcoal black; fresh skin pinks, a burst of canary yellow and a finale ofpoudré pales – sky, peach,boudoir pink, seafoam green, periwinkle and nude

Fabric & knit: Textured tweeds, bouclé, woolly plaids andtapestries; lustrous changeant velvet, taffeta and patterned jacquards;cashmere, pointelle knits, ribbon-threaded hand knits; soft leather, suede,luxe furs, pink-dyed python; watery silks, negligéesheers of chiffon, organza and tulle

Print & pattern: Flocked florals on taffeta, dainty creepingfloral stem on pale ground, micro repeats, diffused woven plaids

Details & trims: Plissétiers, lettuce-edge ruffles, bubble hems, balloon sleeves, a squared bib-front,capes and storm flaps on outerwear; tape trouser stripes, lace-insert stripes;beaded fringing, jet beading, twinkling micro embroideries, marabou-featherfronds, decorative ribbon running stitch

Footwear: Signature platform boots with buckled details - in ankleor over-the-knee lengths, multi-strap sandals with bows

Accessories: Floppy-brimmed fedoras, long knitted sleeves with furcuffs, fox-fur collars/stoles, fabric cuffs with cabochon stones; squashyunstructured leather bags, the Miss Dior in ridged suede or overstitchedmulticoloured tweed, small formal bags with chain straps

Lanvin

            

Alber Elbaz’s latest collection for Lanvin was the sum of two parts,with strict minimal tailoring morphing into full-blown romantic femininity,like a flower blooming after a long, austere winter, as his colour paletteshifted gear from deep monastic darks into warm, sun-filled brights.

The look: From winter into spring

Silhouette: The contrast of short and geometrically structured withminimal straight lines, to short and softly rounded

Key items: An opening passage of minimal tailoring came with simplerectangular shapes based on the collarless ¾ coat, the tunic and simpleknee-length skirt, all sporting horizontal seam lines and rounded shoulderlines.Short capes added a structured sense of volume, along with the floaty capesleeves on simple shift dresses and tops. Just-seen zips and reed-thin metal trimswere the only details apart from the collection’s extravagant jewellednecklaces and pins. The pace changed, as Elbaz introduced puffballs of gazarflowering at the shoulderline of a skinny knitted tube dress, that same corollaeffect appearing as a beautifully etched rose motif, worked as a placement oran all-over print. And slowly the colours warmed and the fabrics grew lighter,blossoming into a finale of couture-like pleats and graceful folds onflower-coloured cocktail dresses

Colour: A monastic palette of black and inky blue with grey,morphing through caramel and chestnut to vivid poppy, marigold, fuchsia andazalea pink

Fabric & knit: Fluid cashmeres for tailoring, leather,calfskin, broadtail, silk, snakeskin, silk gazar, lace, cloqué, satin

Print & pattern: A monochromatic rose print worked as aplacement motif or as an all-over repeat. A black and white spot pattern

Details & trims: Minimalist metal edging on tailoredsilhouettes, highlighting a front edge or pocket seam

Footwear: Flat mannish slip-ons, double ankle-strap heeled pumps,zipped ankle boots, long knee-length boots

Accessories: Dramatic rose-shaped necklaces, cuffs and brooches,sprinkled with gemstones; broad-brimmed felt hats, long gloves, intricateConstructivist collars

Roland Mouret

            

Roland Mouret expanded hisrepertoire this season, getting back into his stride adding casual jackets,some great pant shapes, easy coats and sumptuous furs to his roster ofsignature dresses. This season the latter took on a new more languid appealwith longer fluid silhouettes.

The look: Elegant femininity

Silhouette: Elongated and fluid

Key items: This season’s dresses came in elongated proportions,fluid skirts falling from a softly defined waist and alleviated by soft splithem details, with bodices featuring the designer’s signature manipulated dartsand seams or a gentle fan of pleats at the neckline. Longer pencil skirts tookthis almost vintage look to the max, teamed with military-style blousons for anew masculine/feminine appeal. Full-legged mannish pants and simple shirtsbrought a sporty tailored mood into play, along with soft shorts and leanmelanged knits. Shorter dress silhouettes bucked the languid mood before ashow-stopping evening gown in emerald green crepe de chine, its flirtybias-ruffled front traced with a snaking bronze zip

Colours: A subdued palette of olive, grey and black punctuated withrich brights – think old gold, grenadine, cornflower blue and emerald

Fabric & knit: Slubby tweed, pinstripe wools, bonded jersey, cashmere,self-coloured brocade, feathered fox

Print & pattern: A small-scale micro floral in black and white

Details & trims: Manipulated darts and seams, fan pleats at theneck of soft dresses and blouses, applied crystal trims, ribbed welts onblouson jackets

Footwear: Classic high-heeled T-bars

Issey Miyake

            

In a day of departures, creative director Dai Fujiwara stepped downfrom the helm at Issey Miyake. But there was no scandal and no fanfare, just asimple rondo played out on three pianos, slowly building as the collectiongathered pace. Opening with an installation performance, where assistantsfolded widths of paper tape into the templates of five pieces, they were thenjoined on stage with the fabric versions. It was a quiet insight into the conceptand underpinning work behind the winter collection.

The look: Conceptual construction

Silhouette: Blouson volume with peaked points and handkerchiefdrapes

Key items: Naturally for a winter season, outerwear was a key focus,and included a pair of slim-fitting tailored coats in zigzags or the blendedhoundstooth/herringbone jacquard, padded coats and jackets with a high neckcreated from an in-built scarf detail, a couple of soft-structure coats – onewith a caped layer and wide sleeves, the other a slouchy leather wrap coat. Wealso saw a series of cropped jackets, boleros or mini gilets in various formsincluding padded, in signature Miyake micro pleats or as a simple waist-knottedshirt. Blouson pants with outwardlypeaked points at the thigh were also transposed into bloomer-like shorts, whiledress options included a simple dropped-waist jersey dress with a zigzaggedtape-ribbon skirt and a halterneck pieced together with point-hung handkerchiefsquares

Colour: Tonal greys with solid black, Kelly green, poppy red, royalblue and burnt orange, with tan and butterscotch-coloured leathers

Fabric & knit: Silk, padded ciré, wool, tartan, cotton, suppleleather, stretchy mesh knit, coarse canvas, organza sheers andhoundstooth/herringbone jacquards

Print & pattern: The key pattern was inspired by Escher’s work Verbum,resulting in an overblown and pixellated houndstooth check that morphs into atulip pattern and then into herringbone. A further mix of prints and weaves includedzigzags, geometric knits, a scratch print, painterly strokes and a grayscaleblurred effect

Details & trims: Folded peplums, handkerchief squares hung onthe point

Footwear: Chunky clog boots and shoes

Accessories: Mesh knit leggings, degradé or patterned hosiery; widebelts made of patent-leather-interlocked paillettes; faux-fur sleeves andmatching snood

Maison Martin Margiela

            

After last season’s stiff sandwich boards and tongue-in-cheek sun-tanlines, the latest offer from MMM was something more - dare we say it? - understandable.This time the concept was a build-up of layers, which were partly revealed whenunzipped or peeled away, but putting this modular dressing aside for a moment,there was a new softer element of note, with ditsy floral prints, sensualdrapes and a delicate lace print.

The look: Conceptual layering

Silhouette: Deconstructed layers and peel-away panels, largelycolumnar silhouettes

Key items: While the show was meant to be an exploration of thedress, the collection offered much more than that, with knitted twinsets,maxiskirts paired with casual sweatshirts, biker jackets and coats withdetachable panels, and, of course, the aforementioned dresses. To be precise,they were coat-dresses that unzipped at the sides or peeled away from poppersat the front to reveal glimpses of other items layered underneath, such asshifts, midi skirts or spaghetti-strapped tops. Elsewhere there were softlydraped dresses that looked particularly fresh for the label, as did the silkT-shirt dress printed with a delicate trompe l’oeil lace trim

Colours: Rich plum, cranberry, papal purple, pine green, grey andsky blue

Fabric & knit: Wool, felt, velvet, super-glossy patent leather,bonded neoprene, jersey sweatshirting, silk, Lurex, rabbit, shaved mink

Print & pattern: Dainty florals, trompe l’oeil lace

Details & trims: Long coordinated belts, sheer overlays, lowscooping backs, zip slits, uneven slouchy drapes, long plissé, detachable panels

Footwear: Sock boots comprised stockings pulled over shoes, whichfeatured a detached sole and shoe

Accessories: Elongated clutch bags, fold-over clutch bags; earcuffs, gold knuckle-duster rings; long unzipped gloves with the sleeve hangingloose

Vivienne Westwood

            

In an emotionally charged day in Paris, Vivienne Westwood brightenedforlorn fashion souls with an incredibly upbeat show full of glitter, sequinsand bursts of gold confetti. Her aim was to present strong women who werecapable of carrying her political torch, hence the military helmets, Kabukiwarrior-style make-up and lashings of gold, which she said resembled “powerfulgodliness”. “At first there was no colour because I just wanted strong shapes, andfor people to concentrate on the clothes, but then I added gold because it is astory about the triumph of women, and gold symbolises the gods, bringing uscloser to the power of Olympus,” said Westwood.

The look: Fierce femininity

Silhouette: Slouchy blouson volume, signature swags and drapes

Key items: Pants were loose and slouchy with a twisted fit, whichfollowed through to signature swagged dresses, this time updated with sleevesin mismatched lengths. Skirts were typically either pencils or tulips, and wereworn as part of a nipped-waist tailleur, or with poplin blouses featuringpeaked shoulders and leg-of-mutton sleeves and ruffled jabot. Elsewhere therewere wrap-around maxis and midi skirts with paper-bag waists, teamed withcommercial tops or sweatshirts and some red-carpet-worthy gowns, including anuncharacteristically simple one-shouldered black option and a full-on goldsequinned bandeau column

Colour: Gold, gold and more gold, with nuances of fawn, warm mink,creamy beige, faux nude and soft peach, with tonal, dirtied or dusted greys andpunchy hits of fiery orange and cool turquoise

Fabric & knit: Herringbone bouclé tweed, wool, hand knits in marled yarns, classic pinstripeand simple cotton poplin, printed velvet, taffeta, silk, tulle, jacquards,all-over gold sequins, painted denim, metallic coated foils

Print & pattern: Baroque florals, a fiery red Aztec pattern,mosaic print with primitive figure, hand-drawn stripes, stylised leopard spots,heraldic bird graphic in a silhouette placement

Details & trims: Random jacquard pockets placed on rustic knitsweater, bubble-shaped crinoline, trailing scarves, paper-bag waists, lashingsof gold sequins, embroidered coin spots, mismatched sleeve lengths, exaggeratedleg-of-mutton sleeves and peaked shoulders

Footwear: Gold and silver sequinned courts and ankle boots withmetal kitten heel, over-the-knee boots in pieced brocade

Accessories: Baguette clutch in croc, wide printed canvas shopper,gold sequinned rucksack; gold and diamanté bijoux jewellery including cuffs, ornate necklaces andoversized earrings; military-esque cloche helmets

Yohji Yamamoto

            

The upcoming V&A retrospective of Yohji Yamamoto’s 30 years at thehelm of fashion’s avant-garde could have been a clue to the concept behind hisautumn/winter showing, as the ever-young designer moved seamlessly between 80spunk references and his signature historical romantic sensibility.

The look: Deshabillé punkEdwardiana

Silhouette: Elongated and tubular contrasted with subtle hourglass

Key items: The mesh tube dress underpinned the collection, as thedesigner added and subtracted sheer flower-patterned overlayers, bunchy pleatedskirts, fluttering asymmetric-hemmed tunics, cutaway corsets, punky knits andwaisted hourglass coats. A more romantic sensibility came into play with hoopedcrinoline skirts, caught up to reveal ravaged lace hosiery or cut away intoskeletal formations, that same romantic mood moving through to a collection ofasymmetric LBDs, ruffled and pintucked, and worn with Edwardian-styled shouldercapes

Colour: A focused palette of black, grey and khaki, with vividaccents of grenadine and blood red

Fabric & knit: Sheer meshes, mesh jersey, tulle, georgette,silk, canvas, sturdy wools, leather, velvet and lace, punky loosely structuredknits

Print & pattern: A monochromatic flower motif worked as overblownscale placements, a tie-dye-effect placement and a concentric spot pattern, allon sheers and mesh

Details & trims: Asymmetric hems

Footwear: Sturdy laced military boots in black, grey or red

Accessories: Intricate lace, mesh or printed hosiery, long gloves

Isabel Marant

            

Isabel Marant continued to mine Americana influences for herautumn/winter showing, drawing on North American Navajos and life on the GreatPlains, with her borrowed-from-the-boys denim and cocooning outerwear shapes.It was commercial and it was well conceived, but it seemed to miss the beatthat is underscoring next season’s trends.

The look: Cowgirls and Indian squaws

Silhouette: Cocooning versus body-con

Key items: Oversized outerwear had a borrowed-from-the-boys feel,with big cocooning parkas and mannish jackets layered over a parade of denimpatchwork shirts and jeans, nylon puffas and cabled or Navajo-patterned fringedknits. Vividly coloured Lurex body-con dresses added a more sexy vibe, alongwith wrapped sweater dresses, maybe to team with a sleeveless tuxedo jacket fora masculine/feminine vibe. A photoreal feather print and suede fringed Pocahontasdresses were perhaps an Indian squaw look too far, but the jeans andpatchworked cabans should keep Marant fans happy next season

Colour: All shades of denim blue with winter white, grey and accentsof pine, electric blue, red and navy

Fabric & knit: Cocooning shearlings, goat, mannish tweeds andblanket wools will stave off those prairie winds, layered over suede, crochetknits, puffa nylons, Lurex knits and embroidered lace-like mesh

Print & pattern: Navajo-inspired motifs as prints andembroidery placements; a photoreal feather print

Details & trims: Fringing details, patchwork

Footwear: Wedged runkled knee-high boots with flaying fringes

Accessories: Feather pendant necklaces

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Live From... London Fashion Week, Day 3

Mulberry

Mulberry has emerged as the hottest label to watch in terms of all that is quintessentially British in the international fashion arena. With its concentration on good design, immaculate finish and quality fabrications, along with its ever-expanding range of must-have accessories, this is the name that could topple Burberry from its position as the ultimate British aspirational brand. 

The look: Country classics with a twist
Silhouette: Subtle structured shapes and ladylike longer lengths
Key items: Luxurious outerwear included quilted macs with shearling linings, easy trench coats, boyfriend jackets, lambskin poacher jackets and duffels, or the plush touch of a Toscana lamb gilet. All perfect to throw over culottes, classic trousers, feminine printed blouses, sweeping long skirts and ladylike shirtdresses with pleated skirts and bow-tied necklines
Colour: The palette reflected the colours of the countryside, with mole greys, rich russet or conker browns and heathered lilacs, with accents of brilliant kelly green, foxglove pink, lavender and pheasant green
Fabric & knit: Toscana lamb, waxy sheepskin, quilted cotton, wool-cotton blends, herringbone tweeds, stretch wool, double silk georgette, metallic crepe, double-faced silk, corduroy, rabbit, cashmere, charmeuse, jacquard silk
Print & pattern: Prints too evoked a rustic spirit, featuring woodland imagery - think squirrels, birds and flowers contrasted with a peace-and-love jaquarded silk for an urbane urban touch
Details & trims: Ski-clip-style gilt hardware closures on outerwear and jackets
Footwear: Ankle boots with smooth wooden wedges and tilly-buckle hardware in rich colours and textures including tweed, jumbo cord, grained metallic leather and lambskin
Accessories: The heritage Bayswater and Bayswater satchel with poacher-style straps; stud closures and a new across-body strap; double-chain wrapped handle bags; new hardware details to update the Alexa; butter-soft quilted leathers and a conker-coloured patent highlighted some of the latest must-have bags

Acne

From the quintessential Britishness of the Mulberry show, the fashion pack was whisked straight to the urban gritty show space of Acne, the fashionista’s go-to brand, with its signature androgynous style reworked in a mix of unexpected fabrications and fashion colours.

The look: Urban girls
Silhouette: Relaxed and boxy
Key items: The cropped pant manifested itself in butter-soft leather to team with throw-on tie-belt wrap coats, big cocooning shearlings or a silver leather shell top sporting a dare-to-bare sheer back. Leather dungarees and a workwear-inspired boilersuit added to the urban vibe, along with workwear jackets and a roomy biker. A more decorative element came into play, with the cloqué skirts worn with a mannish denim shirt or in the side-split palazzo pants and their matching maxiskirt. And there was a luxe appeal in the drapey camel tunic knit and cropped leather biker skirt
Colour: Urban blues and greys, burgundy, rose and pale shell pink, hyacinth, pea green, marigold and dijonFabric & knit: Leather, drills, denim and cloqué, tulle overlays, silk velvet, shearling
Footwear: Wooden-heeled platform sandals in patent or silver, camel-coloured wedge-heeled broguesAccessories: Natural-coloured pop socks

Jasper Conran

After last season’s acclaimed resort-inspired collection, Jasper Conran turned to a more minimal, structured look for autumn/winter, teaming his rigorous tailoring with slick minimal modernism with a strong graphic appeal.

The look: 60s chic
Silhouette: Modern and minimal
Key items: Strong graphic lines came into play for the collection’s simple tank dresses and A-line skirts, worked in a variety of reptile-inspired patterns, or overlaid in sheer mesh. That same minimalist look was worked into hip-belted scalloped-hem shifts and a micro-shorts all-in-one. DB tailoring, an immaculate tuxedo jacket and a grey reefer-style skirt suit had a structured appeal, while shimmering sequins, rectangular paillettes and an ostrich-feathered coat were worked into sparse lines for a less-is-more appeal for evening Colour: Intensely saturated oxblood red and espresso, punctuated with accents of amethyst and deep inky blues
Fabric & knit: Emerging fabric trends were addressed in the use of silky calfskin and plush Toscana lamb, complementing wool jersey, viscose jersey, silk crepes, suede, silk tulle, cashmere, soft leathers and silk chiffons
Print & pattern: This was more about surface decoration than print, with reptilian patterns worked in bold black and white combinations, which were moulded or stitched and carved
Details & trims: Self-covered hip belts, contrast top stitching, fringed and tiled leather and suede, lacing details
Footwear: Square-toed flat pumps in patent or satin, over-the-knee boots in suede or croc effectsAccessories: Flowing head scarves, bucket hats, jersey beanies, shoulder bags with Perspex or acrylic trims, suede hip belts, opaque tights, Toscana-lamb clutch bags

Nicole Farhi

Nicole Farhi continued her exploration with innovative fabrics for her immaculate autumn/winter collection, full of those items that have made her one of the stalwarts of London Fashion Week - the perfectly cut trouser, great outerwear and covetable knits. 

The look: Streamlined and functional
Silhouette: Minimal and linear but softly structured
Key items: Farhi cuts a mean pant, and this season they came with a masculine full leg and a high cummerbund waist, the perfect team mates for her fitted metallised herringbone tweed jackets or her jersey tops, which shimmered with moulded sequins. Bonded knits took traditional Aran structures into a new dimension, and there was a play on the masculine shirt, here cut in oversized shapes with a flowing caped back or with pintucked details. Outerwear is another strong suit with this label, and the easy kimono wraps and unstructured wide-cut silhouettes didn’t disappoint. Sinuous jersey dresses featured coiled zips, tracing curvilinear seams or the spine of a floorlength shift, and for evening columnar dresses in chainmail yarns or the contrast of billowing crystal-pleated floor-sweeping skirts
Colour: A tightly focused palette of lamp black, inky midnight blue, deep oxblood and winter white, with a flash of vermilion red
Fabric & knit: Innovative finishes and techniques took traditional wools and meltons into another stratosphere, with bonded, laminated, boiled and pressed effects. Herringbone tweed had a silvery metallic finish, while calfskin, moleskin and suede added a tactile touch among Farhi’s moulded and laminated sequins
Details & trims: Exposed coiled zips, cutout backs, contrast edging
Footwear: Laced suede needle-heeled ankle boots, ponyskin ankle boots
Accessories: White hosiery

Unique

With a new venue, Anna Wintour and a cast of London it-girls front row, expectations were running high at Topshop Unique’s autumn/winter showing for a collection that was inspired by post-depression 30s America - a theme that offered scope for looks that veered from stevedores to Hollywood glamour queens, via showgirls and sultry Art Deco sirens. 

The look: 30s Americana
Silhouette: Va-va-vroom meets hello sailor
Key items: The collection was a cavalcade of looks and key items too long to list, but key pieces included matelot pants and skirts, sailor tops and shirtdresses, laced-back hotpants, a masculine trench coat and ticking western-style jeanswear. Flippy bias dresses and long-line pencil skirts sometimes veered towards a strict 40s silhouette, and there was a play on Cruella de Vil, with a posse of faux furs and exaggerated fur trims. One standout dress was a simple devoré shift with a burn-out of the Brooklyn Bridge
Colour: Black and white, warm gingers, camel and a raft of yellows, silver
Fabric & knit: Faux furs by the yard from fake mink to dalmatian-print ponyskin, cocooning shearling, rubber-backed canvas, ticking stripes, mohair, flocked Lurex, striped jersey, satin, devoré and marabou, silver leather
Print & pattern: Dalmatian spots, a micro dog-print repeat, Hollywood logos, Manhattan-skyline motif
Details & trims: Deco appliqués
Footwear: High stomping metallic Mary-Janes, dalmatian-patterned heeled ankle boots
Accessories: Lace hosiery and ankle socks


Antonio Berardi

For winter, Antonio Berardi aimed to break out of his after-six reputation with a new focus on daywear and, more particularly, outerwear. And for the first part of the show he did just that, layering coats, jackets and heavy knitwear to chunky extremes before giving way to his more familiar high-octane evening looks. “I wanted it to be luxurious, but it was tougher than usual,” said Berardi. “I wanted it to feel like London.” 

The look: Statement luxury
Silhouette: Bulky outerwear created heavily proportioned uppers layered atop strictly tailored shapes
Key items: In line with the season so far, outerwear was a key focus for Berardi as he layered jackets and coats in bulky proportion play - a cropped biker with oversized revers and bullion-beaded sleeves sat atop a flare-skirted wrap coat, while a heavy curly lamb jacket with cropped sleeves was styled atop a long grey wool coat, both with hugely exaggerated revers. Beneath these heavy layers came neatly tailored cropped wool pants worn with crystal-studded poloneck jumpers, or folded skater skirts. As the looks moved toward cocktail hour, there were panelled and contoured sheaths in optic black and white, tailored dresses with daringly exposed sheer lace panels at the chest, and a strictly tailored midnight blue pantsuit, its raglan-sleeved jacket featuring a sheer lace back. For full-on evening looks there were lean column gowns in molten metallic Lurex
Colours: Winter white, intense midnight blue, slate and smoke greys, bright pea green and brash metallic red and gold
Fabric & knit: Laser-cut/punched wool, crystal-studded ribbed knits, textured wool jacquards with a scratched patina, cashmere, double-faced silk, organza, fine Chantilly lace, over-dyed Lurex, Mongolian lamb and shaved mink
Details & trims: Sculptural fold-back revers and collar details, dropped shoulders and sleeve heads, exaggerated back cowl drapes, jewel-striped sleeves, heavy studded hardware on sleeves and hems, punched wool mesh, crinkle pleats, eyelet studding, sheer lace panels
Footwear: Multi-strap heels with extended buckle straps by Manolo Blahnik, in lime suede or black patent leather
Accessories: Fine jewellery by Annina Vogel

Matthew Williamson

The opening exit set the tone for the show - a patchworked ethnic-textile parka with leather sleeves and fox-fur hood, worn with chunky buckled biker boots. This was Williamson’s pretty hippy-chick going through a tough-girl phase. 

The look: Boho goes biker
Silhouette: Short and leggy
Key items: The leather-sleeved woven textile parka, patched zip-fly leather pants with quilted knees, and a host of motocross biker jackets gave the collection its tougher edge, while blanket coats, shaded Mongolian-lamb chubbies and gilets were more familiar Williamson boho. Signature minidresses were rife - either printed, panelled or featuring embroidered yokes - while the wrap-over miniskirt and softly tapered peg pants had strong commercial potential. Elsewhere there were pin-tucked sheer shirts, tailored jackets featuring a slashed shoulder detail, and that longer-length T-shirt shape that has been is fast becoming one of London’s key pieces
Colours: Clashing coral, pink and red, signature nude, shaded olive, smoky greys, and flashes of bright turquoise and royal blue
Fabric & knit: Degradé curly Mongolian lamb and bouncy silver fox furs, marabou, silky micro-patterned jacquards, silk, chiffon, tinsel-like Lurex, quilted leather, wool, patchworked wovens
Print & pattern: Black-and-white checkerboard squares and zigzags, kaleidoscope/mirrored digital prints, a mint-on-nude floral, diffused animalia
Details & trims: Marabou fringing, pin-tucked pleats, leather edging on blanket coats, crewel embroideriesFootwear: Buckled clog boots, cutout satin sandals
Accessories: Knitted fur scarves, structured metal through-belt on chiffon gown

Vivienne Westwood Red Label

Drawing inspiration from the characters that populate west London’s famous Portobello Market, Vivienne Westwood and Red Label designer Murray Blewett’s collection of individual looks worked best when simply styled. 

The look: Anything goes
Silhouette: Chaotically layered, twisted and swagged
Key items: Amid the eclectic layers of tartan mini-kilts, ribbed-cuff bloomer shorts, twist-seamed skirts and off-centre button-up shirts, there was much to take away from the collection - simple slouch-fit sweater dresses, high-waist tulip skirts and chalk-striped mannish pants. Best were the dresses that were spared the trash-bag styling - a stunning navy-blue silk blouson dress with delicately gathered full skirt and draped shoulder, or the collared halter in a bronze leopard-patterned taffeta
Colours: A concentration of sludgy browns, olive drab, greige, fawn, mustard and maroon, with richer shadings of grenadine red and bronze metallics. Bursts of royal blue, turquoise and vermilion worked as here-and-there highlights
Fabric & knit: A mix-and-match grab-bag of textiles and textures - patchworked checks and signature tartans in red-blue colourways, chalk-stripe suitings, wool, silk, velvet, wool jacquards, thin jersey, blue broadcloth, charcoal flannel, metallic leopard jacquard, gold brocade
Print & pattern: Knitted squiggle stripes, gold over-painted effects
Details & trims: Neon feather tufts, fuchsia satin blazer trim
Footwear: Tall fur boots, bow-trimmed kitten-heeled mules, suede courts decorated with a rosette, tartan willies, leather ankle boots
Accessories: Silk headscarves, strings of pearls and a plethora of headwear including cable-knit beanies, a feathered alpine hat and overblown formal hats such as bowlers or trilbies


Richard Nicoll

Tired of waisted silhouettes, Richard Nicoll looked to the 1920s as inspiration for elongated lengths and dropped waists, fused with his signature sportswear directions. 

The look: A refined sports-glamour fusion
Silhouette: High-low columns and proportional layering
Key items: Sporty dropped-waist knee-length parkas with face-framing collars and panelled raglan-sleeved blouson jackets layered over casually wide pants or cuffed semi-sheer track pants, while long-line sweatshirts were teamed with midi-length skirts for an elongated silhouette. Tops included collarless tunic-length shirts, blouses featuring fly-away fins of parachute silk, and long satin cycling T-shirts emblazoned with crystal-beaded names
Colours: Olive with mustard, nude with ghost white, shades of peach and tonal blues - petrol, Prussian and inky midnight
Fabric & knit: Merino wool, iridescent techno nylons, chiffon and georgette, scratched-effect jacquards, delicate sheers, molten metallic Lurex, quilted double-face, velvet
Details & trims: Elasticated hems and cuffs, face-framing drawstring collars, high-low hems and tails, crystal beaded typography (Latin names of rare moths), skinny cutaway halternecks, colour- or fabric-blocked raglan sleeves
Footwear: Velvet T-bar peep toes


Temperley London

As the brand enters its 10th year of business, Alice Temperley brought the label back to its core focus of eveningwear for winter 2011. 

The look: Decadent after-six partywear with a Deco feel
Silhouette: Fishtails and dropped flares with some hourglass waists
Key items: The swishy skater skirts seen elsewhere this week arrived as knee-length fit-and-flare dresses, which contrasted with the longer, form-following lines of the tailored cocktail sheaths and fishtail column gowns. Tailoring arrived as palazzo-pant jumpsuits, and a tux redux comprising cropped jacket and long peg pant. Other party ensembles included flat-front satin flared pants paired with a metallic halterneck top, or a ruffle-shouldered corset top and sheer maxidresses. The occasional daytime look saw skin-tight leather leggings paired with knitwear - either a popcorn-stitch hooded poncho or a ruffle-shouldered cardiganColours: Ghostly pales of peach, blush, skin pink and white, punctuated with black, bronze metallics and a rich ruby red
Fabric & knit: Satin, watery silks, tulle, spotted point d’esprit, mid-gauge knits and a chunky popcorn stitch, silk twill, glittery Lurex metallics
Print & pattern: A digital Venetian fan print used as a border placement
Details & trims: Crystal embroideries, black star-embroidered sheers, three-dimensional rosette appliqués, folded ruffles created cape sleeves, crochet tiers, tiered ruffle hems
Footwear: Metal-heeled ankle boots
Accessories: A wide leather waspie belt

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