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Marc Jacobs
Serious violins may have been playing, but Marc Jacobs was clearly influenced by the sunny 70s in designing his spring collection, which showed on a gold runway, and confirmed the flared trouser and long-length skirt as key items for the season.
The look: Daytime disco
The silhouette: Lean and fluid with a nipped-in waist
Key items: Gathered strapless dress; belted trench; A-line leather skirt; halter jumpsuit with cargo pockets and wide belt; satin pantsuit with flared trouser; satin jeans-style cropped jacket; satin tap short; Missoni-style knit dress; babydoll coat with oversized ruffle; wide gathered skirt with pockets; sheer black jumpsuit with dot crochet; dot crochet T-shirt; fluid organza halter; long dresses in multi-wrapped and gathered silk; sequined chiffon cape gown; liquid-silk one-shoulder dress with wide belt; cream strapless with stripes of gold and silver sequins
Colour: Anchored in a mixed palette of powder pink, fuchsia, cream and purple, with appearances of sunny orange, peach, deep camel, burgundy, gold and black
Fabric & knit: Silk, satin, quilted satin, silk jersey with gold lurex, chiffon, organza, leather, silk crochet
Print & pattern: Optic dot print, dot crochet
Details & trims: Geo-tribal gold neckline hardware, lack/gold cascade sequins, gold/silver horizontal sequin stripes, palm tree in gold sequins
Footwear: Minimal strapped platform-wedge sandals, feather-trimmed strappy sandals
Accessories: Floral headpices; feather-corsage chokers; extra wide-brimmed sun hats; silk headscarves; quilted clutch bags; semi-circle shaped clutch bags; retro saddle-shaped shoulder bags; concertina-construction handbags with chain straps; wide sash belts decorated with overblown corsages; sculpted leather floral belts; oversized sunglasses with graded lenses
Halston
Marios Schwab successfully caught the DNA of Halston in his second collection for the house, perfectly pitched at the market for red-carpet glamour.
The look: Evening glamour with a 70s feel
Silhouette: Short and draped, or long and columnar
Key items: The collection weighed in heavily towards dresses with a wide variety of silhouettes, from a short draped bustier to 70s-inspired cape sleeves, one-shouldered columnar silhouettes and asymmetric draped effects falling from a gold halterneck. A kimono-styled jacket teamed with a cropped cigarette pant offered an alternative after-six look
Colour: Shades of blue, white, old gold, greyed poudre pink, vivid flame red
Fabric & knit: Fabrics were fluid, with soft georgettes, liquid jersey and satin charmeuse, alternated with crisp matt silk and glittering all-over sequins
Print & pattern: An explosion of splatter prints like images of a far-off galaxy
Details & trims: Gold metal halternecks, caped sleeves, asymmetric cuts and drapes
Footwear: Chunky sandals with padded rouleau straps and high platforms
Accessories: Obi-style sashes, narrow gold belts
Chris Benz
The girls at Chris Benz played vintage dress-up in a spring collection influenced by the 60s and 70s.
The look: Retro brights
The silhouette: Belted A-line
Key items: Sleevless blouse with coloured piping to ruffles; multicolour embroidered tulle "Miro" cardigan; floral-print cropped pant; high-waist knee-length layered chiffon skirt; pleated blanket skirt; cropped and boxy tweed jacket; short leather trench with contrast piping; mid-calf gathered cotton skirt; colour-block safari shirt; long full pant
Colour: Separate palettes of sky blue, navy, white and brown; orange, pink, purple and cream; yellow, vintage green, brown and cream; as well as bright rainbow colours mixed with taupe and ivory
Fabric & knit: Bright tweeds, silk, chiffon, cotton, canvas, leather, tulle
Print & pattern: Upholstery florals, block dot, blanket stripes, splash dots
Details & trims: Contrast piping, heavy yarn embroideries
Footwear: Extreme platform slingbacks with spike heels or wedges in woven wicker, floral-print fabric or contrast piped leather
Accessories: Tassel belt, rope belt
Alexandre Herchcovitch
Architectural silhouettes and blocked colour defined Alexandre Herchcovitch’s spring collection, inspired by painters Barnett Newman and Mark Rothko.
"We just thought about colours this season, and we wanted people to feel that each look is like a stain of paint, so the volume of the clothing and the sleeves is something that helped us get this feeling," the designer told WGSN.
The look: Soft-painted futurism
The silhouette: Wide, rounded shoulders over skinny frames
Key items: Columnar minidress with gathered cap sleeve and contrast contour seams; high-waist cigarette pant; boxy top with gathered cap sleeve; silk halter shirt; shiny architectural dress with rounded top and contour seams; black diagonally gathered minidress; sculpted and gathered degradé halter jumpsuit
Colour: Solid shades of peach, pale pink, hot pink, black, turquoise, mint green and sky blue, as well high-shine shades of taupe, violet and pale gold, often with degradé effect
Fabric & knit: Silk, silk satin, chiffon, cotton
Print & pattern: Splotch print, oversized-pixel colour-block pattern, degradé pattern
Details and trims: Gathered sculpted short sleeves, contour seaming, asymmetrical gathering and a single ruffle
Footwear: Colour-matched covered platform courts
Accessories: Colour-matched thumb-gloves and unisex vintage-frame sunglasses in either black, sky blue, or gold with coloured lenses, the latter from a collaboration with Mykita
Donna Karan
Donna Karan’s romantic spring collection moved from rarefied daytime elegance - via crinkled satin and bias-draped chiffon in driftwood shades - to couture-like, hand-embroidered evening gowns.
The silhouette: Belted A-line
Key items: Sleevless blouse with coloured piping to ruffles; multicolour embroidered tulle "Miro" cardigan; floral-print cropped pant; high-waist knee-length layered chiffon skirt; pleated blanket skirt; cropped and boxy tweed jacket; short leather trench with contrast piping; mid-calf gathered cotton skirt; colour-block safari shirt; long full pant
Colour: Separate palettes of sky blue, navy, white and brown; orange, pink, purple and cream; yellow, vintage green, brown and cream; as well as bright rainbow colours mixed with taupe and ivory
Fabric & knit: Bright tweeds, silk, chiffon, cotton, canvas, leather, tulle
Print & pattern: Upholstery florals, block dot, blanket stripes, splash dots
Details & trims: Contrast piping, heavy yarn embroideries
Footwear: Extreme platform slingbacks with spike heels or wedges in woven wicker, floral-print fabric or contrast piped leather
Accessories: Tassel belt, rope belt
Alexandre Herchcovitch
Architectural silhouettes and blocked colour defined Alexandre Herchcovitch’s spring collection, inspired by painters Barnett Newman and Mark Rothko.
"We just thought about colours this season, and we wanted people to feel that each look is like a stain of paint, so the volume of the clothing and the sleeves is something that helped us get this feeling," the designer told WGSN.
The look: Soft-painted futurism
The silhouette: Wide, rounded shoulders over skinny frames
Key items: Columnar minidress with gathered cap sleeve and contrast contour seams; high-waist cigarette pant; boxy top with gathered cap sleeve; silk halter shirt; shiny architectural dress with rounded top and contour seams; black diagonally gathered minidress; sculpted and gathered degradé halter jumpsuit
Colour: Solid shades of peach, pale pink, hot pink, black, turquoise, mint green and sky blue, as well high-shine shades of taupe, violet and pale gold, often with degradé effect
Fabric & knit: Silk, silk satin, chiffon, cotton
Print & pattern: Splotch print, oversized-pixel colour-block pattern, degradé pattern
Details and trims: Gathered sculpted short sleeves, contour seaming, asymmetrical gathering and a single ruffle
Footwear: Colour-matched covered platform courts
Accessories: Colour-matched thumb-gloves and unisex vintage-frame sunglasses in either black, sky blue, or gold with coloured lenses, the latter from a collaboration with Mykita
Donna Karan
Donna Karan’s romantic spring collection moved from rarefied daytime elegance - via crinkled satin and bias-draped chiffon in driftwood shades - to couture-like, hand-embroidered evening gowns.
The silhouette: Columnar with trailing or asymmetrical details
Key items: Crinkled stretch-satin metallic twill jacket; long bias slip dress with front slit; asymmetrical long bias scarf dress; ribbon-tie-front canvas car coat; washed-linen and silk- jacquard smock top with fullish hem; cropped silk-canvas trouser; long-slit crushed-chiffon shirt dress; tapered pyjama pant in stretch georgette/viscose; scoop-neck gown with patches of jersey twist; stretch jersey halter shirt dress; basket-weave leather jacket; long nubuck leather skirt; pale gold filigree hand-embroidered tulle evening dress
Colour: All-natural shades such as vanilla, jute, nude, antique cream, honey, driftwood, saffron, and, finally, pale gold
Fabric & knit: Silk charmeuse, crushed georgette, stretch satin, linen/cupro, nylon, raw silk, mousseline, silk canvas, washed linen, silk jacquard, chiffon, gauze, tulle, leather
Print & pattern: Shadow leaf pattern in gold filigree
Details & trims: Signature tie bows
Footwear: Nude-coloured heeled sandals with raffia-woven platforms and wide canvas straps; rope-tie flat sandals
Accessories: Stacked bangles, silk leaf corsages, beaded clutch bags, wooden-slat clutch bags, soft leather tie belts with running stitch detail
Carolina Herrera
The name Carolina Herrera is synonymous with ladylike elegance and the designer didn't disappoint for spring/summer 2011, with a collection stamped throughout with old-school glamour.
The look: Ladylike elegance
Silhouette: Elongated and waisted
Key items: Ladylike shift dresses tied with obi-inspired sashes or trimmed with flat obi-like bows; feminine blouses with full sleeves belted over wide-pleat pants or longer-line pencil skirts, soft belted shirt jackets, minimalist belted coats, floor-sweeping full skirts, elegant columnar gowns, full-blown red carpet dresses
Colour: A sharp graphic mix of black and white, undercut with grey, poppy red, zingy orange, orchid pink , pale jade and pine green
Fabric & knit: Sleek satin, organza, brocade, silk tweeds, ribbed and slubbed silks, silk jacquards, silk taffeta
Print & pattern: Botanical flower prints as single placements; floral brocades
Details & trims: Obi-like bows, ultra-fine ties, embroideries, asymmetric necklines, multi-top stitching, embroidered birds in flight, appliqué
Footwear: Anglular T-bars in graphic colour-blocks; peep-toe courts with flat bow trims
Accessories: Exaggerated crowns on straw hats; wide obi belts; narrow tie belts
Michael Bastian
A strong commercial collection from Michael Bastian, who worked a nautical theme to the max with references to the Navy Seals, scuba diving and easy beach-style living.
The look: Casually nautical
Silhouette: A contrast of looks with streamlined scuba styling combined with multi-layering
Key items: A strong roster of key items as Bastion revamped basics through colour or with signature design details: streamlined scuba shorts and tops with contrast piping details or vivid zip pulls; long sleeved striped rugbies and knits; marled hooded tees with cotton facings; casually styled military jackets; brightly coloured kaghoules and 4 pocket jackets; nylon blousons with quilt detailing; easy chinos and soft shorts; a classic denim Western; slick 1SB and 4DB tailoring
Colour: A masculine palette of black, grey and khaki accented with vivid pops of colour – think canary yellow, neon orange and lime
Fabric & knit: neoprene and performance nylons contrasted with the luxe touch of suede, fine babycord, silk, alpaca, metallic finishes, micro checks and small-scale summer plaids, herringbone tweeds and washed denim
Print & pattern: A subtle tone-on-tone leopard print
Details & trims: Contrast piping and zip pulls, quilted panels
Footwear: Beach boy flip-flops, classic loafers, sporty high-tops
Accessories: Contrast webbing belts, dog tags, plaited leather belts, bow ties, knitted ties
Perry Ellis
There was a continuation of the 50s resortwear trend that swept the European runways earlier in the season, as Perry Ellis looked to the comic films of Jacques Tati for summer inspiration.
"Inspiration came from the movies of Jacques Tati," explained designer John Crocco. "Mon Oncle inspired the colour palette while Les Vacancies de Monsieur Hulot inspiring the styling. It's about the style and sensibility of the beach but still dressed up and refined."
The look: City-boy vacation
The silhouette: Neat masculine tailoring
Key items: Tailoring underpinned the collection, with wide-cut DB jackets paired with tailored city shorts and casual polo shirts, 2SB suits with straight-leg pants, and short-sleeved tops including crew-neck sweaters or 50s-style open-necked vacation shirts. A solid outerwear offer saw hooded windcheaters, lightweight summer macs, a ciré baseball jacket and a cotton duffel coat
Colour: Soft candy-colours of salmon, sky, mint and tangerine worked in contrast with bright white, coral red, stone and ash grey
Fabric & knit: Lightweight summer suitings in windowpane checks, casual plaids and candy stripes, cotton shirtings, loose-gauge knits including cables and placement Argyles, ciré, treated cotton
Print & pattern: Candy stripes and checks
Details & trims: Pin-tucking, contrast-edge trims, contrast collars and cuffs, shoulder zips on sweaters, extra-long sleeves on V-neck sweaters
Footwear: Grey plimsolls with white laces
Accessories: Skinny neck ties, white woven leather belts, casual gardener's hats
Silhouette: Elongated and waisted
Key items: Ladylike shift dresses tied with obi-inspired sashes or trimmed with flat obi-like bows; feminine blouses with full sleeves belted over wide-pleat pants or longer-line pencil skirts, soft belted shirt jackets, minimalist belted coats, floor-sweeping full skirts, elegant columnar gowns, full-blown red carpet dresses
Colour: A sharp graphic mix of black and white, undercut with grey, poppy red, zingy orange, orchid pink , pale jade and pine green
Fabric & knit: Sleek satin, organza, brocade, silk tweeds, ribbed and slubbed silks, silk jacquards, silk taffeta
Print & pattern: Botanical flower prints as single placements; floral brocades
Details & trims: Obi-like bows, ultra-fine ties, embroideries, asymmetric necklines, multi-top stitching, embroidered birds in flight, appliqué
Footwear: Anglular T-bars in graphic colour-blocks; peep-toe courts with flat bow trims
Accessories: Exaggerated crowns on straw hats; wide obi belts; narrow tie belts
Michael Bastian
A strong commercial collection from Michael Bastian, who worked a nautical theme to the max with references to the Navy Seals, scuba diving and easy beach-style living.
The look: Casually nautical
Silhouette: A contrast of looks with streamlined scuba styling combined with multi-layering
Key items: A strong roster of key items as Bastion revamped basics through colour or with signature design details: streamlined scuba shorts and tops with contrast piping details or vivid zip pulls; long sleeved striped rugbies and knits; marled hooded tees with cotton facings; casually styled military jackets; brightly coloured kaghoules and 4 pocket jackets; nylon blousons with quilt detailing; easy chinos and soft shorts; a classic denim Western; slick 1SB and 4DB tailoring
Colour: A masculine palette of black, grey and khaki accented with vivid pops of colour – think canary yellow, neon orange and lime
Fabric & knit: neoprene and performance nylons contrasted with the luxe touch of suede, fine babycord, silk, alpaca, metallic finishes, micro checks and small-scale summer plaids, herringbone tweeds and washed denim
Print & pattern: A subtle tone-on-tone leopard print
Details & trims: Contrast piping and zip pulls, quilted panels
Footwear: Beach boy flip-flops, classic loafers, sporty high-tops
Accessories: Contrast webbing belts, dog tags, plaited leather belts, bow ties, knitted ties
Perry Ellis
There was a continuation of the 50s resortwear trend that swept the European runways earlier in the season, as Perry Ellis looked to the comic films of Jacques Tati for summer inspiration.
"Inspiration came from the movies of Jacques Tati," explained designer John Crocco. "Mon Oncle inspired the colour palette while Les Vacancies de Monsieur Hulot inspiring the styling. It's about the style and sensibility of the beach but still dressed up and refined."
The look: City-boy vacation
The silhouette: Neat masculine tailoring
Key items: Tailoring underpinned the collection, with wide-cut DB jackets paired with tailored city shorts and casual polo shirts, 2SB suits with straight-leg pants, and short-sleeved tops including crew-neck sweaters or 50s-style open-necked vacation shirts. A solid outerwear offer saw hooded windcheaters, lightweight summer macs, a ciré baseball jacket and a cotton duffel coat
Colour: Soft candy-colours of salmon, sky, mint and tangerine worked in contrast with bright white, coral red, stone and ash grey
Fabric & knit: Lightweight summer suitings in windowpane checks, casual plaids and candy stripes, cotton shirtings, loose-gauge knits including cables and placement Argyles, ciré, treated cotton
Print & pattern: Candy stripes and checks
Details & trims: Pin-tucking, contrast-edge trims, contrast collars and cuffs, shoulder zips on sweaters, extra-long sleeves on V-neck sweaters
Footwear: Grey plimsolls with white laces
Accessories: Skinny neck ties, white woven leather belts, casual gardener's hats
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