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Michael Kors
Celebrating his 30th anniversary, Michael Kors presented updated variations of his most celebrated looks from the past three decades. With infusions from the 70s, 80s, 90s and today, Kors’ collection is the definition of strong, chic and classic American sportswear.
The look: All-American, wearable glamour
Silhouette: Long and lean, with body-grazing draping and architectural tailoring
Key items: For women, a sleek under-the-knee length skirt with a sexy thigh-high slit was teamed with a grey flannel racerback tank or a white, slash-front blouse. A monochromatic rose look consisted of tailored high-waisted pants, silk blouse and a boxy fur coat, also coming in alternative colourways of lilac and grape. Draped-neck jersey dresses and tunics worn over pyjama pants had a leggy look, as did jersey bodysuits and cashmere jumpsuits. Jersey dresses with a disco feel came with sculpted metal built-in halter necklaces or all-over sparkles. Outerwear was oversized and included a hooded alpaca poncho, a nylon parka with portrait collar, and furs in bold brights and Easter-egg coloursFor men, tailored grey flannel suits consisting of blazers, pants and turtlenecks, along with white trousers paired with classic cashmere turtlenecks, offered the perfect combination for relaxed formal looks. Outerwear was made up of a butter-soft leather pea coat, double-breasted grey wool coat and flannel puffa
Colour: Classic Kors colours, including heather grey, white, black, red and camel, were worn monochromatically, as were flattering tonal shades of blush, rose, powder crème, grape, lilac and chocolateFabric & knit: Soft and luxurious fabrics such as cashmere, jersey, alpaca, fox fur and merino wool were paired with lustrous satin, ethereal chiffon and embellished jersey
Print & pattern: The collection was mostly solids, apart from a black and white chiffon abstract print
Details & trims: All-over sequin embellishment on jersey dresses and tank/trouser ensembles
Footwear: Strappy platform sandals in metallic silver had a high back flap. Knee-high boots in camel croc, bone leather and grey suede were the perfect partners to Kors’ longer-length tunics and dresses
Accessories: Sculpted, high-shine metallic necklaces and cuffs had an 80s feel. Skinny leather belts and wider obis add silhouette to oversized outerwear and basic jersey dresses. Shiny metallic evening purses with delicate chains were worn wrapped around wrists. Classic leather satchels and totes in classic Kors colours such as chestnut, bone and black
3.1 Phillip Lim
Entitled “A Loitering Presence”, Phillip Lim’s autumn/winter collection showed gangland influences, with oversized silhouettes, stiff fabrics and tattoo prints.
The look: Utilitarian sportswear with unexpected performance details
Silhouette: Slouchy and oversized
Key items: Lim mixed colour and textures to achieve an effortless, confident look. Slouchy pleated pants were done in leather or cotton, worn with a nubby alpaca sweater or a leather-sleeved blazer for a toughened edge. A strong masculine look came through in the twill square-collar pea coat, maybe worn with large lambskin trousers, poplin fold-front pants or slub-knit sweats. Patent leather tunics and tops worked well over a basic white cotton skirt or under a nubby cardigan, while metallic sequins on a white tunic dress or black jumpsuit resembled a suit of urban armour
Colour: Lim created a striking colour palette of bright shamrock, praline, sapphire, hibiscus, lavender, melon and pear, with more understated tones of black, salt and pepper grey, camel, cognac, white and navy
Fabric & knit: Lambskin, patent leather and thick neoprene were unexpected trouser and dress choices, but looked fresh with the contrast of curly shearling, alpaca, calf hair and jacquard. Softer fabrics such as chiffon, cotton and jersey toned down the looks
Print & pattern: A colourful “new-veau” print was blown up and resembled tattoos, while a dyed, multi-stitch detail formed an abstract stripe effect
Details & trims: Wide pleating on cropped pants, large square tie necks on outerwear, leather sleeves on tunic dresses and huge pockets underscored the exaggerated, oversized silhouette
Footwear: Strappy sandals in electric blue, gunmetal and silver, classic pumps in patent, shoe-booties with side cutouts in cognac and black, and classic Mary Janes with skinny ankle straps
Accessories: Neoprene clutches in absinthe and sapphire, oversized satchels in creamy evergreen or chocolate leather, fur-covered belts and leather-covered necklaces with tribal references
Marchesa
Like Prabal Gurung, Marchesa’s Georgina Chapman was inspired by Miss Havisham, particularly in the 1946 David Lean adaptation of Great Expectations. For a collection filled with frothy dresses and layered veils, the gowns had deconstructed details and exuded a certain romantic poignancy.
The look: Decaying elegance
Silhouette: Exaggerated volume
Key items: Georgina Chapman and Keren Craig created a stunning collection of statement dresses, including a nude mesh sheath gown with red lace appliqué and fishtail hem, a dramatic long-sleeved nude gown with lace and crystal embellishment on the shoulders, and a silver tulle ball gown with a foiled, sculptural waistline. Shorter dresses included a boxy, feather-covered shift worn with leather leggings, a silver lace babydoll dress with puff shoulders, and a velveteen, scalloped-ruffle frock. A flamenco-inspired coat with a high pleated collar, worn over a black and white lace gown, conveyed a regally antiqued feel
Colour: The collection had some flamenco references - black and red were the most striking colours - with more neutral tones of bone, nude, silver, blush and sky pearl
Fabric & knit: Dresses in tulle, velvet, satin, silk taffeta, silk organza and embroidered lace worn over python and leather pants
Print & pattern: A Baroque pattern embellished with crystals
Details & trims: Crystal embroidery, architectural folds and pleats, distressed tulle hemlines, floral appliqué, feathers and tulle patterns on trains
Footwear: Sky-high sheer platform pumps with ankle straps in black and nude, some with bright red Baroque appliqué
Accessories: Long tulle veils, delicate chiffon ankle socks, feather clutches, crystal embellished clutches, and dark, romantic floral cuffs
Alexandre Herchcovitch
Inspired by the violence of nature, Alexandre Herchcovitch showed a collection of deconstructed, rough-luxe pieces such as slashed jackets, dressed-down skirts and buttoned-up coats. “Volcanoes, magma and solid rock inspired this collection,” said Herchcovitch. “Yet it is kind of romantic.”
The look: Volcanic glamour
Silhouette: Deconstructed tailoring with exaggerated volume
Key items: An experiment of forms and shapes, the collection was focused on flattering proportions with exaggerated and unexpected volume. Cropped tops with sporty hoods, pleated tapered trousers, oversized knits and asymmetrical skirts had a utilitarian feel, while layers of floral lace gave rough, winter wools a feminine touch
Colour: Predominantly black, with warm charcoal and hits of brimstone yellow
Fabric & knit: Silk chiffon, wool and synthetic astrakhan, cashmere and laces
Print & pattern: Intricate surface textures and tonal designs
Details & trims: Unfinished, rough edges, pearls and magnet stone closings
Footwear: Heavy suede boots with surface fringe, and extreme heel and platform proportions
Accessories: Necklaces and bracelets in black pearls, aged crocodile belts, hard-shell clutches that look like rock formations, and leather gloves
Anna Sui
Anna Sui is not a designer who works to the season’s trends, and she has always remained loyal to her own idiosyncratic sub-hippy-dippy vision, with her signature mélanges of print and pattern. It may be a look running out of sync with next winter’s pared-down looks, but her legions of fans will stay happy.
The look: Eclectic vintage
Silhouette: Layered and unstructured
Key items: Dresses are always a key feature in a Sui collection, and for winter 2011 they come cropped to mid-thigh or as ankle-skimming prairie variations, always in a myriad mix of prints, or as pinafore dresses with a coordinating blouse, sometimes topped with a gamine cape or iridescent parka. Shirtdresses were right on trend, as were her fluted bellbottoms and tunic tops. For evening, cosmetic pale vintage-style sequins and beading with flirty fox chubbies and lace hosiery added a pretty feminine twist
Colour: A fulsome palette starting from a core of graphic black and white, and morphing into lime and spearmint, apricot and cognac, purple and ultraviolet, pine green and hyacinth blue, with the odd flash of fuchsia pink and boudoir pales
Fabric & knit: Flannels and tweeds or coordinating glen plaids, iridescent taffetas, sequins, printed sheers and satin, leather, fox and rabbit, lace
Print & pattern: Everything from bi-colour optics to stylised monochrome florals, ditsy florals and Art Nouveau-inspired patterns, by way of simple spots and chevrons, chequerboard checks and naïve 60s flower motifs
Details & trims: Fringing, waistcoat hems on dresses
Footwear: Wide-cut boots, shearling boots, Mary Janes, brogues, gillie-laced shoes
Accessories: Whimsical animal-head hats, butterfly brooches, fur capelets and cowls, plastic chain necklaces and pendants, knee socks, novelty lace or lamé hosiery
Reed Krakoff
A singular look from Reed Krakoff, but one that ticked a number of the season’s trend boxes, with unstructured outerwear lending a sense of quiet stealth-wealth in luxe fabrications, and a cool palette of uptown neutrals and rich winter brights.
The look: Regimented simplicity
Silhouette: Unstructured and boxy over minimal underlayers
Key items: Outerwear was the strong suit here, from the minimalist shrug-on coats and the cropped blousons and bikers in luxe shearling, to the sleeveless duffel hybrid and the boxy jackets worked with monochromatic fabric-blocking. Underlayers veered from the thigh-high split-hem A-line skirt to the carrot-shaped cropped pants and simple layered wrap minis
Colour: Shades of grey formed the core palette, overlaid with inky blues, pine green, bright turquoise, bougainvillea, a flash of poppy and marigold, with a layer of warm camels and winter white
Fabric & knit: Luxurious wools and cashmeres, double-faced wools, wool sateen, satin, leather, sheers, pearlescent square-cut sequins and silver leather
Print & pattern: Two abstract prints complemented the collection - a splatter pattern on a semi-sheer, a scratchy linear print
Details & trims: Fabric-blocking, matt-sheen contrasts
Footwear: ¾-length laced high-heeled boots, T-bar courts
Accessories: Hand-held luxe-look totes and hobos in brights
Yigal Azrouël
Channelling a borrowed-from-the-boys aesthetic, Azrouël’s winter collection was built on masculine workwear looks and easy commercial pieces such as the tapered peg pant and sensible tweedy coats.
The look: Borrowed from the boys
Silhouette: Masculinely tailored with a tapered leg
Key items: Fluid tapered and cropped pants worn with formal shirts and ties were often topped with masculine fur-collared overcoats – sometimes sleeveless. The tuxedo was a revisited motif, influencing striped trousers, black-and-white dress shirts and a double-breasted white tailored dinner jacket with black peaked lapels. There was a demure, covered-up feel to the more feminine pieces, such as the long-sleeved dresses with high necklines, or the plunging V-neck dress worn over a shirt and tie, while the use of sexy sheers added a subversive twist for a midnight-blue cloqué shift with sheer sleeves and leather cuffs and yoke. Singular stand-out pieces included the cropped sweater with long tails, and the fur outwearwear including a grey striped mink coat with leather edging
Colours: Formal black, white and grey punctuated with bright pops of marigold, royal blue, emerald green, teal and fuchsia
Fabric & knit: Tweed, wool twill, Prince of Wales plaid, smooth satin and fluid silks, glittery knit stripes, heavy knit weights, textured cloqué, black sheers, leather, short shearling and mink
Details & trims: Button-down shirt collars, a heavily crystallised shirt bib, turtle necks, fur coat collars and revers, marabou feather trims, diminutive crystal-studded chesterfield-style quilting, leather edging trimFootwear: Lace-up booties with a covered platform, heeled and platform loafers - both in suedeAccessories: Feather hairbands, leather bow ties, roughly hewn rock pendants on silver chains, single-handle satchels and mini bags with long shoulder straps featuring a metal plaque depicting a winged man
Oscar de la Renta
Perhaps Oscar de la Renta feels he has exhausted the piggy banks of his uptown Manhattanites and is setting his sights further east, towards the luxury-loving ladies of Russia and China. His winter collection flies in the face of the term “recession” in an explosion of inimitable intricacies and over-embellished luxury.
The look: A Russian winter
Silhouette: Ladylike body-conscious tailoring with the occasional A-line swing, columnar for evening
Key items: Skirt suits are always an Oscar mainstay, and this season they arrive with cropped jackets and high-waisted pencils; elsewhere neatly proportioned cardigans top A-line minis and trademark shift dresses were tightly tailored. Luxury coats featured fur hoods and concealed closures, while a trompe l’oeil fur print made an impact for a down-filled silk coat and matching print dress. There were bold floral jacquard pants suits and a gold cloqué single-button tux, and for evening, gowns were almost exclusively columnar, some with lengths puddling at the floor
Colours: Deep bordeaux red and burgundy, cool mist greys and darker smoke tones, rich teals and pine greens. Pops of bright royal blue, luminous green and lashings of gold
Fabric & knit: An ornate medley of intricately embellished luxe fabrics including metallic cloqués, bold floral jacquards, plush silk velvet, gold lamé, bouclé wools and embroidered tweeds; luxurious furs including quivering fox, marabou-feather fringing and rich lamb; tulle, silk, leopard-spot devoré, organza
Print & pattern: Painterly diamond checks decorated with over-beading, hand-painted degradé bleeds, a photoreal trompe l’oeil fur print, artful pencil scribbles, patchworked tartans on sheer
Details & trims: Rich embellishments and decorative techniques were at the heart of the collection - gold work, crewel embroideries, millefeuille appliqués, paillette clusters, all-over sequins, robust beading, laser-cut leather, embroidered suede, over-beaded prints, bouclé trims, long marabou fringes
Footwear: Tall leather boots with metal kitten heels, knee-high suede boots, pointed lace-up booties with textile uppers, elegant heeled courts with thick ankle straps
Accessories: Floral and paisley silk scarves, red-jewelled string necklaces, multi-strand chain necklaces decorated with coins, fluffy fox-fur hats and hoods, a long red fox tippet, worker caps
Proenza Schouler
Inspired by a trip to Santa Fe, the influence of Native American textiles on Proenza Schouler’s winter collection was obvious but not clichéd. This wasn’t a collection of rustic homespun crafts - it was a contemporary, computerised take on tradition.
The look: Contemporary craft
Silhouette: Fluid daywear, subtly body-conscious for evening
Key items: Fluid tapered peg pants were casually styled with bias-panelled leather tops, and blazers with flared peplums or sharply tailored masculine coats - one with a zip-off lamb panel. Softly folded wrap-skirts or fringed macramé pencils were paired with untucked camp shirts or long-sleeved crew-neck tops. Knitwear, including boyfriend sweaters and a long cardigan with off-centre buttoning, was highly patterned. Dresses were largely midi-length and included straight-cut shifts, bias-twisted panel dresses or swishy velvet options with twisted or draped shoulder details, and worn layered over black tees
Colour: Bright primary red, marigold, royal blue and turquoise, weighted and tempered with black
Fabric & knit: Pixelated patterned jacquards, hand-painted panné velvet, suede, leather and patent leather, viscose knits, glazed silks, wool twill, curly lamb and macramé
Print & pattern: Pixelated patterns cut in diagonal stripes, horizontal blanket stripes, jazzy diamonds and zigzags
Details & trims: Geometric embroideries, fringed macramé, leather edging trims, peekaboo sheer panels worked into all-over patterns, crew necks, folded skirt splits, flared peplums, high bateau necklines, spaghetti straps, thick straps, bias panelling, zip-off panels
Footwear: Skinny-strapped sandals, some with macramé knot details
Accessories: Small double-compartment clutch bags - in degradé stained leather, apparel-coordinated viscose knit or colour-blocked leathers; moulded baroque leaf necklaces in a matt finish
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