Live From...Paris Fashion Week, Day 3

Dior  Homme

Kris van Assche stripped his spring/summer collection back to the essentials, with a showing entitled Less and More, in which the designer excluded any extraneous detailing and honed sihouettes with an almost monastic purity.

The look: Pure and simple

Silhouette: A combination of fluid and pared back

Key items: Tailoring was high on Van Assche's agenda with elegantly constructed 2SBs featuting ultra-narrow lapels, or in his boxy 4 and 6DBs using silver rings instead of buttons, all layered over collarless shirts or spartan leather tees. Those narrow SBs were also worked as button-to-the-neck jacket shapes, as a sleeveless shirt/jacket hybrid or as a soft duster coat. The leather shirt and simple half-sleeved shirt nodded to two of next summer's emerging trends, and pant shapes came as cropped easy rise silhouettes, bringing a youthful mood into play

Colour: The palette reflected the designer's pared-down aesthetic, with white dominating over black, pigeon grey, Manila, flax and saxe blue

Fabric & knit: Silk taffeta, softest nappa or lambskin, crisp cotton, nylon

Details & trims: Silver rings in place of buttons, contrast neck binding and contrast waistbands on pants

Footwear: Laced ankle boots

Accessories: Wide-brimmed unstructured fedoras, boxy shoppers, leather wristbands, narrow leather belts

Hermes

As you would expect, low-key luxury took place over directional new trends at Véronique Nichanian's showing for Hermès. This is the world of super-yachts, jetset travel and endless vacations played out in the finest fabrications with laidback impeciable styling.  

The look: Subtle luxe

Silhouette: Relaxed resort dressing

Key items: Relaxed pyjama pants brought a casual appeal to soft shouldered DBs, or came worked with matching shirt jackets. That same laidback mood permeated everything from patch-pocket casual SBs, lightweight macs, striped jersey shirts, and the house's signature printed shirts. Luxe suede, leather and python were brought down to earth with Nichanian's perfectly cut suede tees and shirts, lightweight blousons and parkas – all teamed with straight-cut tailored pants, cropped resort shorts and fine-gauge knits

Colour: Warm shots of sun-baked mid-tones lifted the palette – think old gold and washed terracotta teamed with black and white, smoke grey and navy with accents of lime, aqua and hot pink for accessories

Fabric & knit: Pressed linen, striped jersey, silk, ciré, solid checks on cotton, suede, lambskin, mesh linings, python, alligator

Print & pattern: A tonal scarf print in blues and greys, a snaking linear print on white grounds

Details & trims: Zips, knitted welts, piping

Footwear: Simple lace-ups, thong sandals

Accessories: Holdalls, giant Birkin bags, colourful scarves, woven belts

Kenzo 

It was colour and pattern all the way at Kenzo. A breezy summer collection full of signature tailoring worked vivid SE Asian-inspired prints with a palette of hot brights, combined together as if by a traveller who picks up souvenir pieces along his journey.

The look: Intrepid traveller

Silhouette: Classic tailoring with neat casual layers

Key items: The 2SB or 4DB tailored suit or blazer was a core piece, worked in vivid colour to provide and anchor to the riot of prints that came as resort shirts, casual pants and easy-knee-length resort shorts. Those same prints also appeared as a zipped-front shirt jacket and even as flamboyant tailoring, tempered with nautical striped tees and colourful cargo shorts. The look diversified with the inclusion of boxy lightweight outerwear and jacquard patterned knits

Colour: A rainbow of brights, including salmon, parrot green, cobalt, chrome yellow and hot pink worked with grounding colours like taupe, string, sky blue, navy  and white

Fabric & knit: Denim, twill, micro checks, grid-like check shirtings, smooth cottons, lightweight melanged suiting, linen, silk. Fine-gauge knits, jacquard knits, jersey

Print & pattern: A colourful pictorial scarf print, vintage SE Asian-style florals, a simple monochrome faded palm print, all-over florals, a coin spot motif, navy and white stripes, an exotic lily placement motif on white grounds

Details & trims: Contrast white buttons on tailoring

Footwear: Coloured sandals and lace-ups, apron-front lace-ups, soft two-tone loafer shapes

Accessories: Soft printed sun hats, silk scarves and neckerchiefs, canvas/leather totes, coloured leather belts

Maison Martin Margiela

Things were transparently clear at Maison Martin Margiela, where super lightweight fabrics allowed the inner layers or linings to shine through. It made for a surprisingly commercial collection full of reworked essential wardrobe staples.

The look: Lightweight

Silhouette: Soft volume supporting unstructured silhouettes

Key items: The season's mood for lightweight voluminous outerwear was all present and correct with billowing duster coats, soft trenches and even a poncho. That same soft volume was repeated in casual blouson jackets – one transformed from a tuxedo. The emerging trend for safari jackets was addressed too, here in lightweight cottons. 2SB tailoring was worked in superfine cotton weights, allowing the striped knits or bandanna-print shirts worn underneath to peek through, creating a light-diffused look. Pants were cut straight and slim, with rolled cuffs showing contrast linings, or were worked in striped cotton shirtings – a fabric used in spliced-up ribbons for textured pop-corn style knits

Colour: A tight masculine palette of black, white, bone, grey, sand, a range of summery blues, khaki, brick and a pop of fire-engine red

Fabric & knit: This collection played with lightweight fabrics to create a weightless feel – think cotton crepe, cotton voile, semi-sheer nylon, cotton shirtings, striped jersey, waxed cotton, and superfine cotton knits

Print & pattern: A vintage bandanna print, overdyed and worked as a patchwork print

Details & trims: Striped bindings, contrast linings

Footwear: Classic oxfords, slip-on no-lace derbys, Chelsea boots

Accessories: Scarves, both print and fringed, tooled leather belts, key chains, cummerbunds

Raf Simons

A colorful play on print and pattern from Raf Simons in a turnaround from the dour collection he presented for Jil Sander in Milan. Here he teamed checks and florals with the simplest silhouettes, cutting, splicing and working bias effects into his mix.

The look: Classics with a playful twist

Silhouette: Softly tailored with a casual slant

Key items: Simons took six or seven basic shapes and reworked them through print and pattern. The commuter mac, the sleeveless tee, top, the half-sleeve shirt, tunic shirts, knitted tanks and 2SBs all got a makeover in spliced checks, floral intarsia and jacquards and a playful palette of summer brights

Colour: Black provided the core to the palette scored with aqua, mandarin, bright watermelon, mimosa, baby pink and sky blue

Fabric & knit: Madras plaids, checks, leather, taffets, silk cotton canvas

Print & pattern: Simple floral intarsia and jacquards, a profusion of checks and plaids worked on the straight, patchworked together and cut on the bias

Details & trims: Zipped side seams and shoulders on leather tees

Footwear: High-shine lace-ups

Read more »

Live From... Paris Fashion Week, Day 4

Christian Dior

            

There was no denying the emotional charge at Dior yesterday, from theatmospheric set – an ornate salon with ice-dusted mirrors bathed in an eerieblue light – to Sidney Toledano’s loaded speech, and the ensemble of atelierswho replaced the disgraced designer John Galliano for the final bow. Even thecollection seemed to lack the usual spirit, despite baring obvious Gallianohallmarks. This was a sad swan song for Galliano, perhaps best articulated bythe long and lingering kiss the final model blew out into the cold Parisianair. “The heart of the House of Dior, which beats unseen, is made up of itsteams and studios, of its seamstresses and craftsmen,” said Sidney Toledano.“What you are going to see now is the result of the extraordinary, creative andmarvellous efforts of these loyal, hardworking people.”

The look: Highway men and fair maidens

Silhouette: Flirty fit-and-flare, largely short and swingy

Key items: As ever with Galliano a historical influence is key,transpiring here as bow-trimmed knickerbockers and short pouffy bloomer shorts,sweeping maxi capes and coats, and off-the-shoulder velvet tops and dresses.But putting costume aside, there were short-and-swingy full or pleated skirtstopped with neat tailored jackets or flared princess coats, and oversizedT-shirt tops including one in pink-dyed python. Looks were also layered withfluffy fur or feathered jackets, and shrug-on hand-knit cardigans, whileflounces of tiered ruffles for baby-doll dresses and blouses added signatureromance. The deshabillé finale comprised typically negligée-inspired dresses inembroidered, tiered or millefeuille ruffled sheers

Colour: Intense Prussian blue with rich bordeaux red, loden greenand charcoal black; fresh skin pinks, a burst of canary yellow and a finale ofpoudré pales – sky, peach,boudoir pink, seafoam green, periwinkle and nude

Fabric & knit: Textured tweeds, bouclé, woolly plaids andtapestries; lustrous changeant velvet, taffeta and patterned jacquards;cashmere, pointelle knits, ribbon-threaded hand knits; soft leather, suede,luxe furs, pink-dyed python; watery silks, negligéesheers of chiffon, organza and tulle

Print & pattern: Flocked florals on taffeta, dainty creepingfloral stem on pale ground, micro repeats, diffused woven plaids

Details & trims: Plissétiers, lettuce-edge ruffles, bubble hems, balloon sleeves, a squared bib-front,capes and storm flaps on outerwear; tape trouser stripes, lace-insert stripes;beaded fringing, jet beading, twinkling micro embroideries, marabou-featherfronds, decorative ribbon running stitch

Footwear: Signature platform boots with buckled details - in ankleor over-the-knee lengths, multi-strap sandals with bows

Accessories: Floppy-brimmed fedoras, long knitted sleeves with furcuffs, fox-fur collars/stoles, fabric cuffs with cabochon stones; squashyunstructured leather bags, the Miss Dior in ridged suede or overstitchedmulticoloured tweed, small formal bags with chain straps

Lanvin

            

Alber Elbaz’s latest collection for Lanvin was the sum of two parts,with strict minimal tailoring morphing into full-blown romantic femininity,like a flower blooming after a long, austere winter, as his colour paletteshifted gear from deep monastic darks into warm, sun-filled brights.

The look: From winter into spring

Silhouette: The contrast of short and geometrically structured withminimal straight lines, to short and softly rounded

Key items: An opening passage of minimal tailoring came with simplerectangular shapes based on the collarless ¾ coat, the tunic and simpleknee-length skirt, all sporting horizontal seam lines and rounded shoulderlines.Short capes added a structured sense of volume, along with the floaty capesleeves on simple shift dresses and tops. Just-seen zips and reed-thin metal trimswere the only details apart from the collection’s extravagant jewellednecklaces and pins. The pace changed, as Elbaz introduced puffballs of gazarflowering at the shoulderline of a skinny knitted tube dress, that same corollaeffect appearing as a beautifully etched rose motif, worked as a placement oran all-over print. And slowly the colours warmed and the fabrics grew lighter,blossoming into a finale of couture-like pleats and graceful folds onflower-coloured cocktail dresses

Colour: A monastic palette of black and inky blue with grey,morphing through caramel and chestnut to vivid poppy, marigold, fuchsia andazalea pink

Fabric & knit: Fluid cashmeres for tailoring, leather,calfskin, broadtail, silk, snakeskin, silk gazar, lace, cloqué, satin

Print & pattern: A monochromatic rose print worked as aplacement motif or as an all-over repeat. A black and white spot pattern

Details & trims: Minimalist metal edging on tailoredsilhouettes, highlighting a front edge or pocket seam

Footwear: Flat mannish slip-ons, double ankle-strap heeled pumps,zipped ankle boots, long knee-length boots

Accessories: Dramatic rose-shaped necklaces, cuffs and brooches,sprinkled with gemstones; broad-brimmed felt hats, long gloves, intricateConstructivist collars

Roland Mouret

            

Roland Mouret expanded hisrepertoire this season, getting back into his stride adding casual jackets,some great pant shapes, easy coats and sumptuous furs to his roster ofsignature dresses. This season the latter took on a new more languid appealwith longer fluid silhouettes.

The look: Elegant femininity

Silhouette: Elongated and fluid

Key items: This season’s dresses came in elongated proportions,fluid skirts falling from a softly defined waist and alleviated by soft splithem details, with bodices featuring the designer’s signature manipulated dartsand seams or a gentle fan of pleats at the neckline. Longer pencil skirts tookthis almost vintage look to the max, teamed with military-style blousons for anew masculine/feminine appeal. Full-legged mannish pants and simple shirtsbrought a sporty tailored mood into play, along with soft shorts and leanmelanged knits. Shorter dress silhouettes bucked the languid mood before ashow-stopping evening gown in emerald green crepe de chine, its flirtybias-ruffled front traced with a snaking bronze zip

Colours: A subdued palette of olive, grey and black punctuated withrich brights – think old gold, grenadine, cornflower blue and emerald

Fabric & knit: Slubby tweed, pinstripe wools, bonded jersey, cashmere,self-coloured brocade, feathered fox

Print & pattern: A small-scale micro floral in black and white

Details & trims: Manipulated darts and seams, fan pleats at theneck of soft dresses and blouses, applied crystal trims, ribbed welts onblouson jackets

Footwear: Classic high-heeled T-bars

Issey Miyake

            

In a day of departures, creative director Dai Fujiwara stepped downfrom the helm at Issey Miyake. But there was no scandal and no fanfare, just asimple rondo played out on three pianos, slowly building as the collectiongathered pace. Opening with an installation performance, where assistantsfolded widths of paper tape into the templates of five pieces, they were thenjoined on stage with the fabric versions. It was a quiet insight into the conceptand underpinning work behind the winter collection.

The look: Conceptual construction

Silhouette: Blouson volume with peaked points and handkerchiefdrapes

Key items: Naturally for a winter season, outerwear was a key focus,and included a pair of slim-fitting tailored coats in zigzags or the blendedhoundstooth/herringbone jacquard, padded coats and jackets with a high neckcreated from an in-built scarf detail, a couple of soft-structure coats – onewith a caped layer and wide sleeves, the other a slouchy leather wrap coat. Wealso saw a series of cropped jackets, boleros or mini gilets in various formsincluding padded, in signature Miyake micro pleats or as a simple waist-knottedshirt. Blouson pants with outwardlypeaked points at the thigh were also transposed into bloomer-like shorts, whiledress options included a simple dropped-waist jersey dress with a zigzaggedtape-ribbon skirt and a halterneck pieced together with point-hung handkerchiefsquares

Colour: Tonal greys with solid black, Kelly green, poppy red, royalblue and burnt orange, with tan and butterscotch-coloured leathers

Fabric & knit: Silk, padded ciré, wool, tartan, cotton, suppleleather, stretchy mesh knit, coarse canvas, organza sheers andhoundstooth/herringbone jacquards

Print & pattern: The key pattern was inspired by Escher’s work Verbum,resulting in an overblown and pixellated houndstooth check that morphs into atulip pattern and then into herringbone. A further mix of prints and weaves includedzigzags, geometric knits, a scratch print, painterly strokes and a grayscaleblurred effect

Details & trims: Folded peplums, handkerchief squares hung onthe point

Footwear: Chunky clog boots and shoes

Accessories: Mesh knit leggings, degradé or patterned hosiery; widebelts made of patent-leather-interlocked paillettes; faux-fur sleeves andmatching snood

Maison Martin Margiela

            

After last season’s stiff sandwich boards and tongue-in-cheek sun-tanlines, the latest offer from MMM was something more - dare we say it? - understandable.This time the concept was a build-up of layers, which were partly revealed whenunzipped or peeled away, but putting this modular dressing aside for a moment,there was a new softer element of note, with ditsy floral prints, sensualdrapes and a delicate lace print.

The look: Conceptual layering

Silhouette: Deconstructed layers and peel-away panels, largelycolumnar silhouettes

Key items: While the show was meant to be an exploration of thedress, the collection offered much more than that, with knitted twinsets,maxiskirts paired with casual sweatshirts, biker jackets and coats withdetachable panels, and, of course, the aforementioned dresses. To be precise,they were coat-dresses that unzipped at the sides or peeled away from poppersat the front to reveal glimpses of other items layered underneath, such asshifts, midi skirts or spaghetti-strapped tops. Elsewhere there were softlydraped dresses that looked particularly fresh for the label, as did the silkT-shirt dress printed with a delicate trompe l’oeil lace trim

Colours: Rich plum, cranberry, papal purple, pine green, grey andsky blue

Fabric & knit: Wool, felt, velvet, super-glossy patent leather,bonded neoprene, jersey sweatshirting, silk, Lurex, rabbit, shaved mink

Print & pattern: Dainty florals, trompe l’oeil lace

Details & trims: Long coordinated belts, sheer overlays, lowscooping backs, zip slits, uneven slouchy drapes, long plissé, detachable panels

Footwear: Sock boots comprised stockings pulled over shoes, whichfeatured a detached sole and shoe

Accessories: Elongated clutch bags, fold-over clutch bags; earcuffs, gold knuckle-duster rings; long unzipped gloves with the sleeve hangingloose

Vivienne Westwood

            

In an emotionally charged day in Paris, Vivienne Westwood brightenedforlorn fashion souls with an incredibly upbeat show full of glitter, sequinsand bursts of gold confetti. Her aim was to present strong women who werecapable of carrying her political torch, hence the military helmets, Kabukiwarrior-style make-up and lashings of gold, which she said resembled “powerfulgodliness”. “At first there was no colour because I just wanted strong shapes, andfor people to concentrate on the clothes, but then I added gold because it is astory about the triumph of women, and gold symbolises the gods, bringing uscloser to the power of Olympus,” said Westwood.

The look: Fierce femininity

Silhouette: Slouchy blouson volume, signature swags and drapes

Key items: Pants were loose and slouchy with a twisted fit, whichfollowed through to signature swagged dresses, this time updated with sleevesin mismatched lengths. Skirts were typically either pencils or tulips, and wereworn as part of a nipped-waist tailleur, or with poplin blouses featuringpeaked shoulders and leg-of-mutton sleeves and ruffled jabot. Elsewhere therewere wrap-around maxis and midi skirts with paper-bag waists, teamed withcommercial tops or sweatshirts and some red-carpet-worthy gowns, including anuncharacteristically simple one-shouldered black option and a full-on goldsequinned bandeau column

Colour: Gold, gold and more gold, with nuances of fawn, warm mink,creamy beige, faux nude and soft peach, with tonal, dirtied or dusted greys andpunchy hits of fiery orange and cool turquoise

Fabric & knit: Herringbone bouclé tweed, wool, hand knits in marled yarns, classic pinstripeand simple cotton poplin, printed velvet, taffeta, silk, tulle, jacquards,all-over gold sequins, painted denim, metallic coated foils

Print & pattern: Baroque florals, a fiery red Aztec pattern,mosaic print with primitive figure, hand-drawn stripes, stylised leopard spots,heraldic bird graphic in a silhouette placement

Details & trims: Random jacquard pockets placed on rustic knitsweater, bubble-shaped crinoline, trailing scarves, paper-bag waists, lashingsof gold sequins, embroidered coin spots, mismatched sleeve lengths, exaggeratedleg-of-mutton sleeves and peaked shoulders

Footwear: Gold and silver sequinned courts and ankle boots withmetal kitten heel, over-the-knee boots in pieced brocade

Accessories: Baguette clutch in croc, wide printed canvas shopper,gold sequinned rucksack; gold and diamanté bijoux jewellery including cuffs, ornate necklaces andoversized earrings; military-esque cloche helmets

Yohji Yamamoto

            

The upcoming V&A retrospective of Yohji Yamamoto’s 30 years at thehelm of fashion’s avant-garde could have been a clue to the concept behind hisautumn/winter showing, as the ever-young designer moved seamlessly between 80spunk references and his signature historical romantic sensibility.

The look: Deshabillé punkEdwardiana

Silhouette: Elongated and tubular contrasted with subtle hourglass

Key items: The mesh tube dress underpinned the collection, as thedesigner added and subtracted sheer flower-patterned overlayers, bunchy pleatedskirts, fluttering asymmetric-hemmed tunics, cutaway corsets, punky knits andwaisted hourglass coats. A more romantic sensibility came into play with hoopedcrinoline skirts, caught up to reveal ravaged lace hosiery or cut away intoskeletal formations, that same romantic mood moving through to a collection ofasymmetric LBDs, ruffled and pintucked, and worn with Edwardian-styled shouldercapes

Colour: A focused palette of black, grey and khaki, with vividaccents of grenadine and blood red

Fabric & knit: Sheer meshes, mesh jersey, tulle, georgette,silk, canvas, sturdy wools, leather, velvet and lace, punky loosely structuredknits

Print & pattern: A monochromatic flower motif worked as overblownscale placements, a tie-dye-effect placement and a concentric spot pattern, allon sheers and mesh

Details & trims: Asymmetric hems

Footwear: Sturdy laced military boots in black, grey or red

Accessories: Intricate lace, mesh or printed hosiery, long gloves

Isabel Marant

            

Isabel Marant continued to mine Americana influences for herautumn/winter showing, drawing on North American Navajos and life on the GreatPlains, with her borrowed-from-the-boys denim and cocooning outerwear shapes.It was commercial and it was well conceived, but it seemed to miss the beatthat is underscoring next season’s trends.

The look: Cowgirls and Indian squaws

Silhouette: Cocooning versus body-con

Key items: Oversized outerwear had a borrowed-from-the-boys feel,with big cocooning parkas and mannish jackets layered over a parade of denimpatchwork shirts and jeans, nylon puffas and cabled or Navajo-patterned fringedknits. Vividly coloured Lurex body-con dresses added a more sexy vibe, alongwith wrapped sweater dresses, maybe to team with a sleeveless tuxedo jacket fora masculine/feminine vibe. A photoreal feather print and suede fringed Pocahontasdresses were perhaps an Indian squaw look too far, but the jeans andpatchworked cabans should keep Marant fans happy next season

Colour: All shades of denim blue with winter white, grey and accentsof pine, electric blue, red and navy

Fabric & knit: Cocooning shearlings, goat, mannish tweeds andblanket wools will stave off those prairie winds, layered over suede, crochetknits, puffa nylons, Lurex knits and embroidered lace-like mesh

Print & pattern: Navajo-inspired motifs as prints andembroidery placements; a photoreal feather print

Details & trims: Fringing details, patchwork

Footwear: Wedged runkled knee-high boots with flaying fringes

Accessories: Feather pendant necklaces

Read more »

Live From... Paris Menswear, Day 3

Maison Martin Margiela

 A well-balanced collection from Maison Martin Margiela with diverse influences bringing city, country and subtle nautical looks into play. 

The look: Town and country
Silhouette: Casual layers, classic tailoring
Key items: Tailoring comes in the form of classic 4DBs layered over polo-neck sweaters, or as a velvet blazer and double-layered SB jackets, maybe teamed with a relaxed pant or a straight-legged trouser shape and a slick Crombie-style coat. Shearling and leather coats or gilets bring a rustic touch into play teamed with chunky knits and easy cargo pants, complete with nautical-inspired reefer jackets and overscaled blanket wool coats offset with the contrast of a vividly coloured down-filled lining
Colour: Multiple tones of grey teamed with camel, terracotta and brick with accents of burgundy and saxe blue, winter white, bone and vivid azure
Fabric & knit: Brushed wool, flannel suitings, velvet, double-faced wools, reversing to a check, tweed, chambray, shearling. Tweedy knits, heavy-gauge knits
Details & trims: Exposed zips
Footwear: Grey boots, suede boots


Miharayasuhiro

Poor boy tailoring, a hint of nautical and vintage country looks combine for an offbeat mix at Miharayasuhiro, where contrast braided trims help define the revamped silhouettes.
The look: Little Lord Fauntleroy-meets-country gent
Silhouette: Shrunken and layered
Key items: The shrunken poor-boy SB or DB is worked with knee-length shorts and high-buttoned waistcoats (vests: US), layered over leggings or teamed with heavy-gauge knitted socks. Cropped pant shapes and truncated jackets offer an alternative silhouette while knickerbockers and gilets—in padded Aran knit or rabbit fur – or tailoring worked in a trompe l’oeil Aran-knit print  bring countrified influences into play. The duffel gets a makeover, reworked with an asymmetric caped sleeve and Admiral jackets come with unravelled bullion epaulettes. And to keep the look grounded, a luxe shearling gilet, a slick aviator jacket and a short reefer coat
Colour: Indigo, camel, a range of rich tan and chestnut browns
Fabric & knit: Velvet, flannel, tweed and melanged jersey, shearling and leather, rabbit combined with a simple windowpane check in azure or orange on a muted ground
Print & pattern: A trompe l’oeil Aran knit print
Details & trims: Contrast braid edging or binding, ravaged edges, tux stripe on cropped pant
Footwear: Laced military boots, pointed Oxfords
Accessories: Knitted socks, Argyle socks, brooches and pins, shoppers

Hermès

A signature luxurious collection from Veronique Nichanian for Hermès, effortlessly giving classic men’s styling a new youthful beat.

The look: Modern luxe
Silhouette: Classic
Key items: Outerwear is a strong suit within the collection, with luxurious shearling reefers, belted leather DBs, casual puffas, fur collared bikers and classic 6DB Crombie styling layered over 4DB suits or lean 2SB tailoring and toning shirts. The house’s signature leather and suede come as soft pants, an easy suede shirt or a leather all-in-one, with cabled knits adding the final luxe touch
Colour: Layered shades of grey add to the feeling of quiet luxury, along with black, olive green, rich chestnut browns and camel. Old gold, sky blue and azure blue are the complementary accents worked for luxe knits
Fabric & knit: Luxe leathers and suede, shearling, blistered pinstripe suitings, cashmere, subtle toning checks, lofty brushed wools
Footwear: Classic Oxfords are updated with rubbed toes and the house’s signature orange as the sole
Accessories: Plain-dyed ties, checked and striped scarves, crocodile belts, barrel-shaped bags

Raf Simons

Raf Simons redefines menswear with his groundbreaking collection of breathtakingly simple pieces, techno fabrications and vivid colour. This is design aesthetic at its purest, no tricksy details, just beautiful clothes.

The look: Modern simplicity
Silhouette: Streamlined and boxy or reed thin
Key items: Simons takes the basics of a man’s wardrobe and reworks them with the subtlest of details – the duffel comes with coloured toggles or in bonded flannel for a sculpted feel. The parka is stripped down to its essentials and reworked in poppy red flannel; the tailored SB is reworked as a boxy jacket and coats are turned into simple A-line tunics with a single toggle closure. Boxy Harringtons, wide-legged pants and knee-length tunic knits or classic crew-neck Fair Isle sweaters, a striped brushed mohair shell top and apron-like overlayers complete the look
Colour: A classic palette of camel, black, burgundy and grey, with modernist accents of fuchsia, poppy red and ultraviolet
Fabric & knit: Techno bonded flannel gives the collection its edge, creating the simplest sculpted silhouettes and contrasted with cashmere, brushed mohair and wet-look patent
Print & pattern: Fair Isles patterns for knitwear, a dead prince college logo, shirting checks
Details & trims: Simple square closures in vivid brights, mismatched coloured toggles
Footwear: Classic Oxfords
Accessories: Plain-dye ties, checked scarves

Kenzo

Antonio Marras takes us on a journey through the Highlands with the Edwardiana dandy for this autumn/winter showing, mixing colour and pattern with a carefree hand. 

The look: Edwardian Scottish dandy
Silhouette: Multilayered and mismatched
Key items: There are retro connotations in Marras’ high-waisted belted pants and cutaway high-buttoned 1DB jackets and his neat-fit patterned tank tops. Other bottomweights include coated and pieced jeans, leather biker pants, kilts and vivid velvet cuffed trousers. Jacquard cardigans and sweaters layered over plaid shirts or under tartan tailoring and biker jackets are teamed with classic SB suiting for an offbeat look, while vivid colour-blocking gives a classic blazer, slim-legged pants and V-necked knits a fashion twist
Colour: Shots of lettuce green, chrome yellow, vermilion, ultramarine, bright red and mandarin bring the classic palette of black, grey, camel and tan to life 
Fabric & knit: A mixed medley of plaids and checks, velvet, pinstripes, Donegal and Shetland tweed, shearling, curly lamb, coated denim and herringbones, teamed with mismatched Fair Isle, Argyle and jacquard knits
Print & pattern: Woven plaids and checks, florals, a tonal abstract print
Details & trims: Fur collars
Footwear: High-shine Oxfords and classic brogues, high-laced military boots
Accessories: Bow ties and bowler hats, striped ties, rucksacks, briefcases and weekend bags

Dior Homme 

 
Kris Van Assche strips away any extraneous detailing for his sublimely simple collection for Dior Homme, bringing a new luxurious modernity to menswear.

The look: Less is definitely more
Silhouette: Pared-back fluidity
Key items: Tailoring is cut into fluid and streamlined silhouettes, as Van Assche teamed the season’s most fluid pant shapes with monastic shirt jackets or narrow-lapel SBs. Elsewhere he layers an SB over an elongated high-buttoned cutaway collarless jacket or teams a simple long-sleeved shell top over matching pants as an alternative to the classic suit. Capes add to the fluid feel, while edge-to-edge buttonless double-faced coats and fine-gauge knits reinforce the overriding message of luxurious simplicity
Colour: A monastic palette of black and flannel grey offset with warm mole tones and a splash of vermilion red
Fabric & knit: Luxurious double-faced cashmere, cashmere fine-gauge knits, shearling
Details & trims: Random contrast lines of stitching
Footwear: Classic high-shine OxfordsAccessories: Wide-brimmed high-crown hats, rucksacks, tote bags

3.1 Philip Lim

Phillip Lim takes his menswear onto the international stage this season, with his first showing in Paris, where he presented a youthful interpretation of classic looks, tapping into the minimalist vibe that is underpinning the trends this weekend. 

The look: Modern and minimal
Silhouette: Sparse and boxy
Key items: Buttonless coats and collarless jackets mark the modern minimalism that runs through this collection, with flat-front boxy tailoring teamed with matching jog pants, or worn in mismatched layers over elongated tunic tops. Leather sleeves add to the layered feel along with ribbed sweaters or a biker jacket worn over SB jackets, as well as the ochre all-in-one teamed with a classic blazer. And in keeping with other shows this weekend, the boxy tunic featured, here with fur pockets and a cowl neckline
Colour: Inky blues, French navy and cobalt, olive and taupe with accents of emerald green and old gold or ochre
Fabric & knit: Marled jersey, tweed, jacquard suitings, moleskin, fur
Print & pattern: A horizontal geometric jacquard weave
Details & trims: Hook and eye closures, leather sleeves
Footwear: High-shine ankle boots, some with strap detail 
Accessories: Driving gloves, gauntlets, oversized unstructured briefcases and shopper

Ann Demeulemeester

The unexpected introduction of colour to Ann Demeulemeester’s signature monochrome palette brings a new definition to her menswear line, as she deconstructs tailoring and gives it an edgy vibe. 

The look: Deconstructed gothic rocker
Silhouette: Skinny and layered
Key items: Demeulemeester sticks to a simple formula of high-buttoned vest - sometimes unbuttoned to expose fronds of goat hair -- and deconstructed lean jackets layered over semi-sheer skinny pants in a dark over a bright, creating a veiled look. Her skinny jacket shapes are spliced at the waist to fall into sharp angular panels with low-buttoned tux-style waistcoats worn almost like belts forming collaged effects. There are unstructured biker hybrids to add to the edgy rocker vibe and the designer’s signature historical romantic looks come through in her military greatcoat or the lean knee-length frockcoat
Colour: Grey and black form the core of the palette, with French navy and mole brown and unexpected accents of brights in the form of flame red, scarlet and old gold
Fabric & knit: Leather and suede, shearling and goat hair, semi-sheers, velvet, suitings
Print & pattern: A tonal shadow stripe and coordinated geometric print, an engineered splatter pattern on suiting
Details & trims: Covered buttons, notched edges to form angular panels
Footwear: Biker boots, high-laced military boots, riding boots
Accessories: Gauntlets, toning scarves

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