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Dior Homme
Kris van Assche stripped his spring/summer collection back to the essentials, with a showing entitled Less and More, in which the designer excluded any extraneous detailing and honed sihouettes with an almost monastic purity.
The look: Pure and simple
Silhouette: A combination of fluid and pared back
Key items: Tailoring was high on Van Assche's agenda with elegantly constructed 2SBs featuting ultra-narrow lapels, or in his boxy 4 and 6DBs using silver rings instead of buttons, all layered over collarless shirts or spartan leather tees. Those narrow SBs were also worked as button-to-the-neck jacket shapes, as a sleeveless shirt/jacket hybrid or as a soft duster coat. The leather shirt and simple half-sleeved shirt nodded to two of next summer's emerging trends, and pant shapes came as cropped easy rise silhouettes, bringing a youthful mood into play
Colour: The palette reflected the designer's pared-down aesthetic, with white dominating over black, pigeon grey, Manila, flax and saxe blue
Fabric & knit: Silk taffeta, softest nappa or lambskin, crisp cotton, nylon
Details & trims: Silver rings in place of buttons, contrast neck binding and contrast waistbands on pants
Footwear: Laced ankle boots
Accessories: Wide-brimmed unstructured fedoras, boxy shoppers, leather wristbands, narrow leather belts
Hermes
As you would expect, low-key luxury took place over directional new trends at Véronique Nichanian's showing for Hermès. This is the world of super-yachts, jetset travel and endless vacations played out in the finest fabrications with laidback impeciable styling.
The look: Subtle luxe
Silhouette: Relaxed resort dressing
Key items: Relaxed pyjama pants brought a casual appeal to soft shouldered DBs, or came worked with matching shirt jackets. That same laidback mood permeated everything from patch-pocket casual SBs, lightweight macs, striped jersey shirts, and the house's signature printed shirts. Luxe suede, leather and python were brought down to earth with Nichanian's perfectly cut suede tees and shirts, lightweight blousons and parkas – all teamed with straight-cut tailored pants, cropped resort shorts and fine-gauge knits
Colour: Warm shots of sun-baked mid-tones lifted the palette – think old gold and washed terracotta teamed with black and white, smoke grey and navy with accents of lime, aqua and hot pink for accessories
Fabric & knit: Pressed linen, striped jersey, silk, ciré, solid checks on cotton, suede, lambskin, mesh linings, python, alligator
Print & pattern: A tonal scarf print in blues and greys, a snaking linear print on white grounds
Details & trims: Zips, knitted welts, piping
Footwear: Simple lace-ups, thong sandals
Accessories: Holdalls, giant Birkin bags, colourful scarves, woven belts
Kenzo
It was colour and pattern all the way at Kenzo. A breezy summer collection full of signature tailoring worked vivid SE Asian-inspired prints with a palette of hot brights, combined together as if by a traveller who picks up souvenir pieces along his journey.
The look: Intrepid traveller
Silhouette: Classic tailoring with neat casual layers
Key items: The 2SB or 4DB tailored suit or blazer was a core piece, worked in vivid colour to provide and anchor to the riot of prints that came as resort shirts, casual pants and easy-knee-length resort shorts. Those same prints also appeared as a zipped-front shirt jacket and even as flamboyant tailoring, tempered with nautical striped tees and colourful cargo shorts. The look diversified with the inclusion of boxy lightweight outerwear and jacquard patterned knits
Colour: A rainbow of brights, including salmon, parrot green, cobalt, chrome yellow and hot pink worked with grounding colours like taupe, string, sky blue, navy and white
Fabric & knit: Denim, twill, micro checks, grid-like check shirtings, smooth cottons, lightweight melanged suiting, linen, silk. Fine-gauge knits, jacquard knits, jersey
Print & pattern: A colourful pictorial scarf print, vintage SE Asian-style florals, a simple monochrome faded palm print, all-over florals, a coin spot motif, navy and white stripes, an exotic lily placement motif on white grounds
Details & trims: Contrast white buttons on tailoring
Footwear: Coloured sandals and lace-ups, apron-front lace-ups, soft two-tone loafer shapes
Accessories: Soft printed sun hats, silk scarves and neckerchiefs, canvas/leather totes, coloured leather belts
Maison Martin Margiela
Things were transparently clear at Maison Martin Margiela, where super lightweight fabrics allowed the inner layers or linings to shine through. It made for a surprisingly commercial collection full of reworked essential wardrobe staples.
The look: Lightweight
Silhouette: Soft volume supporting unstructured silhouettes
Key items: The season's mood for lightweight voluminous outerwear was all present and correct with billowing duster coats, soft trenches and even a poncho. That same soft volume was repeated in casual blouson jackets – one transformed from a tuxedo. The emerging trend for safari jackets was addressed too, here in lightweight cottons. 2SB tailoring was worked in superfine cotton weights, allowing the striped knits or bandanna-print shirts worn underneath to peek through, creating a light-diffused look. Pants were cut straight and slim, with rolled cuffs showing contrast linings, or were worked in striped cotton shirtings – a fabric used in spliced-up ribbons for textured pop-corn style knits
Colour: A tight masculine palette of black, white, bone, grey, sand, a range of summery blues, khaki, brick and a pop of fire-engine red
Fabric & knit: This collection played with lightweight fabrics to create a weightless feel – think cotton crepe, cotton voile, semi-sheer nylon, cotton shirtings, striped jersey, waxed cotton, and superfine cotton knits
Print & pattern: A vintage bandanna print, overdyed and worked as a patchwork print
Details & trims: Striped bindings, contrast linings
Footwear: Classic oxfords, slip-on no-lace derbys, Chelsea boots
Accessories: Scarves, both print and fringed, tooled leather belts, key chains, cummerbunds
Raf Simons
A colorful play on print and pattern from Raf Simons in a turnaround from the dour collection he presented for Jil Sander in Milan. Here he teamed checks and florals with the simplest silhouettes, cutting, splicing and working bias effects into his mix.
The look: Classics with a playful twist
Silhouette: Softly tailored with a casual slant
Key items: Simons took six or seven basic shapes and reworked them through print and pattern. The commuter mac, the sleeveless tee, top, the half-sleeve shirt, tunic shirts, knitted tanks and 2SBs all got a makeover in spliced checks, floral intarsia and jacquards and a playful palette of summer brights
Colour: Black provided the core to the palette scored with aqua, mandarin, bright watermelon, mimosa, baby pink and sky blue
Fabric & knit: Madras plaids, checks, leather, taffets, silk cotton canvas
Print & pattern: Simple floral intarsia and jacquards, a profusion of checks and plaids worked on the straight, patchworked together and cut on the bias
Details & trims: Zipped side seams and shoulders on leather tees
Footwear: High-shine lace-ups
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