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John Galliano
The swinging sixties art scene played muse to Bill Gaytten's collection for the absent John Galliano, drawing reference from the British artists of the time. But David Hockney and Peter Blake weren’t the only characters referenced via costume yesterday, as the final two models sporting ironed hair and headbands making sure the missing designer was still in the house to take his signature parade down the catwalk.
The look: Pop Art heroes
Silhouette: Loose and layered vs skinny rock chic
Key items: Galliano's Peter Blake character opens the show in eclectic layers of military jackets and coats, silky pyjama pants and graphic tees or Navajo knit tops; there's a bohemian hobo vibe to the T-shirts and waistcoats layered beneath flyaway robe coats and tailored jackets with rustic blanket-stitched edges. David Hockney follows, dressed in schoolboy short-suits, striped knits and shirts styled with floppy bow ties. For the signature underwear passage, Peter Schlesinger plays muse, giving rise to bird-printed silk robes, boxers and pyjamas before the tone turns sharp and sexy for the final section comprising bare-chested evening suits cut in reed-thin silhouettes. There are spray-on satin pants and undone silk shirts, satin-trimmed tuxedos, embroidered waistcoats and a DB pea coat with jet-beaded sleeves
Colour: Military red and navy; a central passage of vivid pastels including mint and pistachio with fresh white; jet and onyx black-on-black
Fabric & knit: Silk, satin, cotton gaberdine, twill, plaid, suede, jersey
Print & pattern: A host of pictorial T-shirt graphics including a horse's head, a photographic portrait and a target with a feather dart; there are bird prints in the intimates section and pyjama stripes, Navajo patterns and light-on-dark dappled effects elsewhere
Details & trims: Red piped military trims, domed military buttons, decorative gold embroideries, black-on-black sequins and beading, blanket stitching
Footwear: Soft structure car shoes, suede slippers, loafers with extreme pointed toes, snaker-boot hybrids
Accessories: Feathered necklaces, beaded necklaces; high-domed hats decorated with a single feather, squashy leather caps, baseball caps; floppy bow ties, blunt-ended ties; Navajo woven belt
Yves Saint Lauren
Stefano Pilati plundered an iconic house statement for his summer menswear offer, playing on the safari styling made famous by Yves Saint Laurent in the 70s. But it wasn't exactly a romp through the archives, as Pilati tempered the reference with an abundance of his own streamlined military-crisp tailoring and minimal detailing.
The look: Modern militia
Silhouette: Lean and crisply tailored
Key items: Signature safari looks give rise to a series of pieces featuring the distinctive criss-cross lacing, decorating pleat-front shorts and necklines, or working as drawstrings slicing through the waist of jackets. Jackets are a core focus for Pilati and variations on the theme throw up a funnel-necked zip-through blouson and matching shacket, a snake-print blouson and a couple of DBs – one cropped, the other collarless with cutaway closures sitting taught across the chest. Coats are cut with military precision, offering a smart 4DB crombie with pleated back detail or a slimline trench coat that features a shaped storm flap similar to one seen in the recent womenswear resort collection. Tailored suits comprise of sharp-shouldered SBs or high-breaking DBs often worn with mismatched pants; trousers are tapered and subtly cropped, while other bottom weights include a tailored cargo pant and wide pleat-front shorts
Colour: A clear and concise palette comprising of ink blue, jet black, white and beige
Fabric & knit: Silk mohair, cashmere and luxury wools, satin, cotton, slicked and polished leather, mesh knits
Print & pattern: A blue and black snakeskin
Details & trims: Peaked lapels, cutaway jacket closures, stand-up collars, criss-cross lacing and drawstrings, perforated cotton
Footwear: Mesh-covered round-toed boots, patent boots with buckle at side, patent or aggressively-coloured snakeskin loafers
Accessories: Cord bracelets, snakeskin belts
Givenchy
Inspired by surf and a trip to Rio de Janeiro, Riccardo Tisci made a giant leap away from his gothic dark prince persona with this collection. Running riot with white, vivid print and a glittering dose of coloured sequins, this was Givenchy at its lightest and brightest yet.
The look: Exotic sport and street
Silhouette: Largely boxy and square cut save for lean slim-legged tailoring
Key items: Tisci continues with the sporty streetwear shapes he's been pedalling for several seasons now – the wide boxy tees, baseball jackets, layered leggings and long-sleeved sweat tops – the latter sometimes arriving in new cropped lengths, but his signature wide shorts (that have popped up repeatedly elsewhere this season) are replaced with pleated A-line wrap skirts that hit the knee. When shorts do arrive they are slimmer and more tailored, while jeans and flat-front pants are straight cut and paired with long-length muscle vests tucked in to create a dipped hem or oversized sequinned sweatshirts. The boxy silhouette is further amplified by square-cut short-sleeved shirts and stiff jean jackets in cotton drill, while Tisci's tailoring took silhouette to a leaner place, with slim-fitting suits with tight narrow pants
Colour: Army greens with crisp optic white and barely there tints of mint and pink; hints of purple and blue brights via prints
Fabric & knit: Khaki drill, cotton, jersey, iridescent gazar, silky sports mesh, all-over sequins
Print & pattern: A spiky bird of paradise graphic print works in large symmetrical mirror-reversed placements that lined up across open jackets and the shirts beneath, also worked as elbow placements, occasional black stars
Details & trims: Sequinned prints, satin lapels
Footwear: Chunky rubber two-strap sandals
Accessories: Lanyards, scythe-shaped earrings, baseball caps, slim ties
Comme De Garcons, Homme Plus
Frills, lace and splashes of pink brought welcome touches of femininity to Rei Kawakubo's Comme des Garçons menswear collection, which played out as an exploration of outerwear with jackets, coats and blazers topping every look.
The look: Coordinated dressing
Silhouette: Straight cut
Key items: Jackets and coats dominate the collection – from hooded duffels and zippered biker-blazer hybrids to DB trenches and crombies, with waistless silhouettes that create a feeling of elongated proportions also echoed in the dress-length shirts that peek out below coat and jacket hems. There are also sleeveless versions of the key outerwear shapes, layered atop shirts and T-shirts decorated with crinkly lettuce-edge frills, those same frills also trickling down suit jacket sleeves and tailored shorts. A final passage of evening looks sees black suits and cutaway frock coats in lace, dressed with matching black lace shirts which are layered atop white tees for contrast
Colour: Black, grey, white, coral pink and red
Fabric & knit: Pinstripe and Prince of Wales suiting, wool blend and satin-finish suiting, gingham, cotton, plasticised synthetics, lace, squashy micro quilted cottons, jersey
Print & pattern: Overprinted chequerboard patterns and pin dots; a variety of chain links, random typography overlaid with handdrawn abstract doodles
Details & trims: Wooden buttons, string and wooden duffel toggles, lettuce-edge frills, pieced constructions, torn effects revealing jacket linings, wide turn-ups, inset shoulder details, flyfront suit jacket closures, biker zips
Footwear: Abbreviated Chelsea boots, blunt-toed casual oxfords and buckled mary janes (flat) all worn with patterned socks
Accessories: High-domed hats, magpie-jewelled crowns and crumpled hats
Junya Watanabe
If the outdoor setting didn’t give the game away, the story became crystal clear after 30 pairs of dungarees. Watanabe often references workwear and for summer 2012 it was the gardener’s uniform that acted as the starting point - complete with patched shirts, Wellington boots and waxed jackets.
The look: Gardener’s World
Silhouette: Comfy casual
Key items: The Watanabe look for next summer is a simple one. 75% of the exits model a pair of dungarees in various colours and cottons in three different styles – classic bib, lowered bib and V-shaped bib, but all with rolled trousers. Layered beneath the dungarees are long-sleeved jersey tees or collared shirts decorated with mismatched patches, a final layer arriving in the form of yard jackets, hooded utility jackets or blazers. Providing occasional deviation from the dungarees are long shorts or patched jeans, the latter in a variety of denim weights, some with white stitching and others with mended patches
Colour: A range of denim blues with pops of red and orange, khaki, stone and olive neutrals
Fabric & knit: Cotton is the cornerstone here – twill, chino, treated or waxed - as casual jersey or poplin shirting; also important is denim – washed, dirtied or raw indigo; leather, melange wools
Print & pattern: Shirting stripes, paisley, plaid and checks, micro gingham, Breton stripes, overdyed treatments
Details & trims: Patches including elbows and patch pockets, denim or corduroy jacket collars, drawstrings, utility pockets, buttoned pockets, metal clip fastenings, back cinch tabs, leather plackets
Footwear: Duck boots, Wellingtons, sturdy walking boots
Accessories: Gardener's hats, baseball caps, neckerchiefs
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