Live From... London Fashion Week, Day 5

Emilio de la Morena 

It was a concise, focused collection from Emilio de la Morena this season, making the most of one silhouette, a handful of repeated items and a precise palette. This offering was far from repetitive however, as each piece was different in the minutiae; an accomplished exercise in refinement, providing a clear and believable message for his customers.

The look: A subverted prim sexiness
Silhouette: Chopped and blocked lean columns, demure knee-lengths
Key items: De la Morena was inspired by Victorian dress which came to light as high-collared sheer blouses, some with micro-frilled bib details; these were then paired with super-slim high-waisted pencil skirts, either smooth and straight or featuring layered panels. Sheath dresses were the other focus, following a similar construction as the skirt-and-blouse combinations – strictly tailored and body-conscious, featuring high turtle necks and either completely sleeveless or with long skinny sleeves; glittery wools were worked into cropped jackets with quilted sleeves and that same turtle neck, while lacy pointelle knits acted as second skins for long-sleeved tops and dresses
Colour: Bright red and orange tempered with graphic black; together with dark plum, white and palest shell pink
Fabric & knit: Organza was the principal fabric, working as structured sheer, or frayed and tufted for short soft-edge frills; there were also glittery lurex wools, which have proved a key trend from London, black pointelle knits and shiny silks
Print & pattern: The compacted sine-curve zigzag depicted in embellishment followed through into a red-on-black print
Details & trims: Thin leather piping worked in a Mondrian-style grid and bordered by tiny seed beads, contour seaming and strictly engineered shaping; sheer organza embroidered with the sine curve zigzag in ribbon, frayed and tufted organza creating micro frills, honeycomb-quilted jacket sleeves, organza underlayers and panels, faux layers and layered coloured sheers, modesty panels on sheer blouses, sheer peek-a-boo panels, pleated silk bustle-like folds at the back of skirts, loose trailing cords
Footwear: A platform suede ankle boot and similar sandal bandaged in shiny ribbon knotted at the toe designed by Charlotte Olympia

Ashish

It's never a case of reinventing the wheel at Ashish. You know to expect sequins; you know to expect some mini party dresses and some streetwear shapes.What you never know is his theme for the season - and that's what keeps things fun. And for winter, the character is a "poor little rich girl" who mixes her sartorial pieces with gritty punk elements. 

The look: Disillusioned youth
Silhouette: Loose-fit casual
Key items: The tartan suit was the key vehicle for signature sequins this season. Chanel-esque boxy jackets were completed with frayed edges and teamed with either wide-fit boxer shorts, loose track pants or micro miniskirts. There was a good-girl-gone-bad attitude to the mix of pearl-buttoned shrunken cardigans, preppy striped shirts and a pinstripe boyfriend suit (in sequins) thrown together with Union Jack tees, tartan kilts, shredded skinny jeans worn with a graffiti biker jacket, and the moth-eaten sloppy sweaters that were sometimes decorated with safety pins. Ashish's signature sequinned party dresses were also much in evidence, littered throughout the collection and featuring draped cowls at the back, single sleeves and slashed shoulder details
Colour: Hyper brights in clashing combinations offset with rust, brown, pine and mustard
Fabric & knit: Signature sequins and paillettes, a cobweb mesh knit, knitted bumblebee and jailhouse stripes, dense knits, moth-eaten knit effects, distressed light-wash denim
Print & pattern: Tartan, Union Jack, skeletons, graffiti, black-and-white micro zigzags all depicted in sequins Details & trims: Ironic slogan appliqués in varsity-style lettering, safety pins, gobstopper pearl buttons, moth-eaten holes, shredded denim, wool fringed trims, missing buttons
Footwear: Dogtooth or graffitied brothel creepers and hi-tops from Ashish x Underground
Accessories: Nude hosiery with spiderweb knee patches

Fashion East – James Long

A familiar name on London’s menswear circuit, James Long made his womenswear debut this season as part of the Fashion East collective.“I think it's a tough, but romantic aesthetic. This girl really exists; it's not a fantasy collection," said James Long. 

The look: Gypsy grunge
Silhouette: Long and floaty
Key items: Chunky hand-knit minidresses with ravaged and shredded chiffon fringe skirts, a fluffy patchworked knit sweater dress, a long fringed Aran knit poncho, high-waisted flat-front leather pants worn with a cropped open-stitch sweater, a shaded waffle knit boyfriend sweater paired with leather treggings and a long-line cardigan; several maxidress options, including a chiffon shirtdress with macramé fringe, space-dyed or macramé knit columns and a striped sheer knit tube dress topped with a black shearling jacket
Colour: Ivory, lipstick red and black
Fabric & knit: Alpaca knits, Aran knits, chunky hand knits, a shaded waffle knit, macramé, bouclé, chiffon Details & trims: Shredded chiffon fringe, macramé details, multicoloured beaded bands
Footwear: Lace-up booties, some with a kiltie fringe, designed by Nicholas Kirkwood
Accessories: Macramé belt

Fashion East - Elliot Atkinson

Visualising his collection as a chronological interpretation of America through the ages, Elliot Atkinson touched upon Native America influences, the Scottish, English and Irish colonisations and the Great Depression – plundering those periods for detail and trim and then applying them to his signature sexy looks.“The collection takes its direction from Americana through the ages, from original Native American influences to Western Americana,” explained designer Atkinson.

The look: Sexy Americana
Silhouette: Super short shorts and body-conscious
Key items: Single-button blazers with zip-off shearling sleeves offered either cropped or long line, spray-on jeans worn with a metal-tipped collared Western shirt, a Mongolian lamb-trimmed biker jacket, a neat Aran-knit sweater teamed with a tartan miniskirt, a shearling chubby paired with zip-fly ski pants and the same Western-style shirt; body-con minidresses in a variety of formats – long-sleeved, sleeveless with feathered bib detail or as a halter pinafore worn over a puritanical high-collared white shirt
Colour: Black, white, cream and pale lavender
Fabric & knit: Shearling, leather, Mongolian lamb, woven tartan, hand-crafted Aran knits, a woven and embossed snakeskin textile, crepe de chine, cotton shirting
Details & trims: Metal-tipped shirt collars, zips, feathersFootwear: Black or nude court shoes from asosAccessories: String bolo ties

Fashion East – Simone Rocha

With dad John watching from the front row, Simone Rocha presented her second collection under the Fashion East umbrella. Her latest collection continues to explore the theme of contrast, be it masculine and feminine, hard and soft, or sheer and opaque with a new level of texture.

The look: Tough-girl chic with subversive softness
Silhouette: Tailored with soft texture
Key items: Mannish, subtly oversized tailored coats and jackets featured spliced sleeves – either fur, pony or sheer - and cutaway back panels and waistline bands. Looks were layered with shirts in white poplin or nude tulle, sometimes featuring a gingham collar, and cable-knit dresses and miniskirts were encased in soft tulle overlayers
Colour: Putty white and tea-stained nudes, black and a pop of geranium pink
Fabric & knit: Chunky cable knits overlaid with tulle, tousled faux furs, glossy ponyskins, teddy-bear textured shearling, signature tulle, poplin and leather
Print & pattern: Flashes of oversized gingham check
Details & trims: Gingham shirt collars, sheer panels, fur panels, fur sleeves, elbow slits
Footwear: Brogues with perspex wedge heels and slingback mannish lace-ups
Accessories: Ponyskin bags

Aquascutum

English Icons, the eagerly anticipated inaugural collection of Aquascutum's new design director Joanna Sykes, focused on a redefinition of the essential pieces in the British winter wardrobe. The emphasis on modern tailoring and sophisticated but still sensible outwear brought a new sense of modernity to this classic house. 

The look: Modern British
Silhouette: Tailored layers and exaggerated proportions
Key items: Miniature quilted gilets with fur collars, tailored trousers with faux skirt panels, a vivid orange long-sleeved dress with nude sheer waist panels, 3D panelled skirts, a floor-length steel grey trench with oversized patch pockets and, for evening, an elegant silk jumpsuit with a deep V-neckline
Colour: Slate grey, midnight and electric blues, blush, apricot, tan and orange
Fabric & knit: English tweed and melton, wool and mohair suiting, wool neoprene, bonded leather, suede, patent shearling, heavy knits and silk
Print & pattern: Block modernist prints
Details & trims: Fur collars, chunky chains on convertible clutches, exposed boot zips and oversized patch pockets
Footwear: Pointed boots with thick ankle straps in both low and high heels and two-tone knee boots in suede and leather in black and tan or grey and silver
Accessories: As well as knitted gloves with pompom details, Aquascutum showed bags for the first time on the runway: sleek black shoulder bags with thick chains carried as clutches and structured and pared-down larger pieces in suede and leather with lizard accents in orange, camel and blue

Marios Schwab

There is a certain signature look pioneered by many young designers on the London runways. Marios Schwab is one of its champions, with his hard-edged short sassy silhouettes, emanating an undercurrent of subversive sex appeal. 

The look: Vixen goddess
Silhouette: Short and sharp
Key items: Unlike the rest of London this week, Schwab devoted most of his collection to dresses, which came as short sharply worked leather sheaths, or as slick above-the-knee silhouettes, sporting halter-neck lines or harnesses and high-set belts, while gentle chiffon drapes softened the mostly hard-edged looks. But it wasn't all sexy sleeveless shifts, Schwab also addressed the current trend for all things quilted and brushed with his exaggerated puffa silhouettes and a lean leather-sleeved brushed mohair coat. For evening, simple draped columnar gowns brought the collection's goddess alter-ego into play
Colours: Vixen-like oxblood, vermillion and grenadine offset with gothic black, sapphire blue, oyster, moss, absinthe
Fabric & knit: Leather, mohair, jersey, satin, chiffon
Details & trims: Straps and harnesses, high-set belts, pearls applied as decorative half-hidden details, cutouts, brogueing details
Footwear: Laced front toe-less ankle boots

Mary Katrantzou

Sometimes when watching a Mary Katrantzou collection you long for the simplicity of a plain coloured shirt, trousers or skirt to best offset her beautifully complex prints. But Katrantzou IS a print designer through and through, and her challenge is to create a collection of wearable wardrobe pieces rather than a collection of prints. 

The look: Exotic orientalia
Silhouette: Hourglass lampshade silhouettes, contrasted with lean tunic-and-pant combos
Key items: The hourglass skirt and dress provided a smooth convex for Katrantzou's pictorial prints, teamed with structured bustier tops and intricate jacquard knits. There was a change of pace with her tailored print pantsuit and lean tunic tops paired with narrow stove pants. For evening, a billowing full skirt and bustier dress brought in a softer more wearable look
Colours: A kaleidoscopic palette of blues, old golds and oranges, aquatic turquoise and purple with the contrast of black and white
Fabric & knit: Printed velvet looked new, satin, blistered kimono-like silks, fine0gauge lurex jacquard knits
Print & pattern: Oriental imagery from precious porcelain-inspired patterns to golden carp, dragons and birds of paradise, via scrolling florals and Chinoiserie borders
Details & trims: Exposed zips, embroidery, gemstone jewels
Footwear: High-cut vampy ankle boots in bright patents

Roksanda Ilincic

Roksanda Ilincic is always looking for ways to make her beautiful eveningwear signatures more viable for daytime. While there were several options for girls with Oscars to win, there were also some casual fusions, which gave her languid silks a contemporary touch, such as the cashmere sweatshirt paired with silk palazzo pants, accessorised with a lipstick-red fox-fur stole.

The look: Modern opulence
Silhouette: Languidly fluid
Key items: The opening exit illustrated Ilincic’s fusion of hard and soft, daytime and party - a stiff longline sleeveless felt wool jacket (feather-trimmed ) paired with fluid silk palazzo pants. A similar effect was achieved with the combination of a wide-structured wool T-shirt combined with a trailing silk maxiskirt languidly cut at the bias. Her short day dresses also offered contrast - some softly draped and gathered, others body-consciously tailored and decorated with metal paillettes. Dresses were largely waisted, sometimes tops and skirts bound together by a contrast-coloured fabric belt or narrow feathered strips. For evening, lustrous one-shouldered silk gowns were artfully pulled and draped to create rippled surfaces, while a columnar orange gazar maxi was gathered at the neck for a contemporary halterneck
Colour: The central palette of orange, grenadine, burgundy and punchy electric blue was inspired by the work of Russian artist Natalia Goncharova; these saturated brights were tempered with pale ash grey and black
Fabric & knit: Watery fluid silks contrasted with the structure of felted wool and cashmere or tufted tweeds; undulating silk gazar, cashmere, wool georgette, dyed fox
Details & trims: Bugle-beaded fringing, brightly coloured feather trims, gun-metal paillettes, pulled gathers and drapes, contrast-coloured sashes and panels, spliced sleeves in tonal colour but contrast fabric, pleated peaked shoulders on long-sleeved dresses, ribboned waists 
Footwear: Satin courts and ankle-strapped sandals by Nicholas Kirkwood
Accessories: Wide fedoras by Noel Stewart, dyed red fox stoles



Amanda Wakeley 

 
Amanda Wakeley made a significant departure from her signature Grecian drapery this winter, with a collection she titled Luxe Sportif. Tapping into the season’s emerging trend for strictly tailored silhouettes, this was sophisticated body-con dressing.

The look: Luxe sportif
Silhouette: Sophisticated second skins
Key items: Body-conscious tailoring gave rise to second-skin short-sleeved minidresses and peplum-flared tops teamed with tight pencil skirts, as well as influencing lean-silhouetted coats, either skin-tight and zip-through or wrapped and midi-length columnar, the latter featuring tall face-framing collars. Long-haired fur jackets and flared skater skirts softened the strict silhouette, as did the few draped pieces, including a cowl-necked jersey day dress, and the asymmetrical metallic skirt paired with a soft silk blouse. There were just two pant shapes in the collection - one cigarette slim, the other a pleat-front peg, both cropped
Colour: Camel, orange, pebble grey, milk white, black, burnished gold
Fabric & knit: Leather with felted wool, patent tweed with scuba jersey, raw-cut flannel, feather-light stretch furs including fox and rabbit, silk cady, superfine tulle sheers, double-faced wool, silk chiffon
Details & trims: Engineered darts and folds, constructed seaming, corseted contours, face-framing collars, cutaway shoulders, sculptural hip fins, double spaghetti straps, gold metalwork embellishments, twinkling jet beading on superfine tulle
Footwear: High-heeled mules with two riveted straps, designed by Camilla Skovgaard
Accessories: Gold chokers and triple cuffs designed exclusively for Ernest Jones, multi-wrap leather waist belts

Read more »

Live From... London Fashion Week - Day 3

Mary Katrantzou

            

It was home from home at Mary Katrantzou, as she explored the world of interiors for a slick and beautifully rendered spring/summer collection.

The look: Home is where the heart is
Silhouette: Short and sharp with form-fitting dresses and lampshade-shaped skirts
Key items: The sheath dress provided the blank canvas for Katrantzou's prints, cut short and sharp with emphasis on the shoulderline to mirror a window pelmet, or with soft draped swathes falling from the hipline to emulate breezy curtains. Skirts were inspired by vintage lampshades and came as witty mini-crinnies, while shorts, a bow-tied chiffon blouse and short boxy jackets offered an alternative silhouette. High-low hemlines addressed one of next summer's strongest new silhouette directions
Colour: A riotous palette was played with an assured hand, melding browns and blues together, mixing reds and greens or soft garden pastels with fuchsia
Fabric & knit: Silks, cotton, georgette and gazar with velvet and flocked effects, raffia
Print & pattern: The interiors theme was taken to the max, with witty trompe l’oeil room sets, combined with iconic interior motifs for an almost collaged effect, offset with traditional florals
Details & trims: Beading and embroidery offset the intricate prints, while raffia - an emerging trend in this weekend - added unexpected texture. Swathes of pleated fabric emulated curtains, along with fringing
Footwear: High-heeled wedge raffia sandals, laced sandal boots
Accessories: Oversized crystal chandelier necklaces and candelabra-inspired neck pieces

Margaret Howell

            

Margaret Howell’s low-key shows are always a welcome oasis of calm in the frenzy of LFW, mirroring her understated approach to fashion.

The look: Gamine nautical
Silhouette: Simple and unstructured
Key items: A pleasing and commercial mix of classic jeans and chinos, pleat-front cuffed pants and culottes, teamed with immaculate cropped white cotton shirts or striped nautical tees. Outerwear was functional - think simple rubber-backed canvas macs or a swingy cropped duffle jacket, perfect to layer over a crystal-pleat skirt and easy summer knits. Dresses had a casual appeal, with striped linen T-shirt shifts, a perfect white linen bias-cut shift, and a camisole sundress
Colour: A classic palette of white, navy, cement, khaki and ivory, with fresh cornflower blue, primrose and mango as accents
Fabric & knit: Fresh simple fabrics with cottons and linens, striped silks, chambray-effect linen, rubber-backed canvas and fine-gauge knits
Print & pattern: Simple pyjama stripes, horizontal scale-mixed stripes
Details & trims: Cotton lace trim, a copper-coloured back zip, Petersham ribbon waistbands
Footwear: Functional crepe-soled loafers
Accessories: Saddlebag-style shoulder bags, narrow leather belts, straw hats, gingham neckerchiefs

Jasper Conran

            

A light and breezy collection from Jasper Conran, who ticked all the boxes with his retro-inspired silhouettes and mouth-watering palette of soft summer colour.
The look: Deauville
Silhouette: Vintage-inspired with longer skirts and waisted emphasis
Key items: A whole holiday wardrobe that encompassed lean tailleurs, Chanel-esque jackets, tapered cigarette pants, simple scalloped-hem shell tops, sheer tees with appliquéd stripes, swingy crystal-pleated skirts and breezy waisted sundresses
Colour: A delicious confection of colour, with caramel, citrus, anise, lilac, tangerine, grenadine, mallow pink, mint green and chocolate, nasturtium and violet all offset with classic navy and white
Fabric & knit: Jersey, silk georgette, silk crepe, gingham-printed organza, taffeta, silk organza, cotton lace, linen, silk chiffon, summer cashmeres
Print & pattern: A seaside postcard border print brought the whole collection together, working well with simple gingham checks
Details & trims: Flat tucks and pleats, flat quilting on taffeta, Petersham ribbon waist details
Footwear: Simple white plimsolls were the perfect contrast to the collection's retro looks and luxe fabrications
Accessories: Plissé taffeta flower belt, giant classically styled framed bags, layered organza hats, cloche hats, ribbon-tie belts

Julien Macdonald

            

A change of direction from Julien Macdonald, who swapped his signature sexy hard-edged glamour for languid boudoir romance.
The look: Summer romance
Silhouette: Bias-cut and languid worked alongside sporty casualwear
Key items: The delicate camisole dress was the key item of the collection, worked in every length, from miniscule slips to high-low-hemmed floor-sweeping silhouettes with caped backs and cascading bias ruffles. Soft poet's shirts, bubble-hemmed minis and trapeze-line baby-doll dresses completed the boudoir feel. Striped cotton casual pieces provided a pleasing contrast, with utility detailing on boxy jacket shapes and soft shorts
Colour: Ivory and blue for the casual pieces, offset with sherbet yellow, dusted lilac, forget-me-not blue, poudre pinks, flame red and mandarin
Fabric & knit: Ticking cottons added weight to the collection's flowing silk chiffons, Swiss embroidered sheers or cutwork, plissé sheers and quilted silk
Print & pattern: Delicate washes of floral prints contrasted with simple deckchair and ticking stripes
Details & trims: Webbing straps and hardware trims, delicate crystalline beading, guipure lace trims, high-low hemlines, ruffles, caped details
Footwear: High vampy laced sandals

Michael van der Ham

            

The fit and finishing may have left something to be desired, but there is no denying the exuberant love of colour and fabric that hallmarked Michael van der Ham's latest collection.
The look: An eclectic vintage collage
Silhouette: Elongated and lean
Key items: Elongated sheath dresses with high-low hemlines, matching pencil skirts with off-the-shoulder tops, caped-sleeve shift dresses, billowing caped sleeves creating a toga effect. Wide-legged pants added another dimension to the look, teamed with collaged tops or devoré shirts
Colour: An exuberant mismatch of colour, which teamed electric blue with sherbet yellow, a spectrum of pinks and purples with violet, dramatic reds and powder blues
Fabric & knit: Signature piecing and patching combined metallic tweeds with skin-patterned lamé jacquards, Swarovski-dusted jersey and custom-made devorés on velvet, satin and jersey grounds
Print & pattern: A melange of motifs worked in happy profusion - think abstract brushstrokes, feathers and leopardskin, often worked in tone-on-tone combinations
Details & trims: The trend for high-low hemlines mirrored the collection's patched aesthetic, along with asymmetric necklines, one-shouldered effects, ruched panels and silky fringing - another emerging trend this week
Footwear: Vividly coloured high-heeled velvet sandals with ribbon-laced ties and multicoloured patent trims
Accessories: Jewel-bright clutch bags with giant crystal trims

Matthew Williamson

            

Despite the off-the-beaten-track venue - a derelict power station on a grey autumn night - Matthew Williamson's spring/summer showing was an exuberantly uplifting affair full of joyous colour and pattern.
The look: Neo-safari
Silhouette: Williamson packed the silhouettes in, from elongated and floor-sweeping to short and sassy
Key items: The collection veered from the languid appeal of wide-pleated Oxford bags, flowing silk utility dresses with parachute draw cords, and safari-style all-in-ones, to tapered silk peg pants (a recurring theme so far this week) to short skating skirts decorated with tufted fringes and rows of sequins, to tulip-shaped bandeau dresses, breezy silk T-shirt shifts, and the full-on glamour of caped-backed brilliantly hued chiffon gowns
Colour: A full-on spectrum of colour, from sandy neutrals and safari khakis to warm ochres, vivid sunshine yellow, tangerine and lime, cobalt blue, cornflower, turquoise and washed neons with an iridescent sheen
Fabric & knit: Texture was a key feature, as flat cottons and washed silks were contrasted with fringed and sequined effects, blistered cloqué, iridescent satins, embossed skin patterns, metallic jacquards, metallic stretch-viscose jersey, chiffons or georgette, and an iridescent shimmering peacock-patterned jacquard
Print & pattern: A rich medley of print and pattern, with diffused florals, stencil prints, and abstracted all-overs
Details & trims: Williamson tapped into the emerging trend for fringing with his degradé fringes and tufted tiers combined with sequins. Elsewhere there were glittering crystals, rope-braided straps and macramé, pleats, parachute drawstrings and caped backs
Footwear: High vampy sandals with heavy block heels and platforms
Accessories: A signature boho vibe was in place for the long, swinging, fringed bags, tie-dye scarves, and the metal belts clasping narrow waists

Kinder Aggugini

            

Inspired by the African travels of Scottish explorer Mungo Park in the early 19th century, Kinder Aggugini's summer collection represents the journey of transformation that occurred within Park, as the colonial Westerner "disrobed" and adopted local dress and culture as his own, before disappearing on the continent during his final expedition.

It wasn't so much as the journey to Africa that interested me, but the fact that he went to discover something, and in the process of it, he was taken away by it and the change that must have occurred inside of him. So I started with structured tailoring, and it becomes softer and softer in fabric, then the tailoring becomes draped before being completely overtaken, with the dresses printed in the colours of Africas," Aggugini told WGSN.

The look: African safari
Silhouette: Ladylike tailoring layered with soft drapes
Key items: Four-pocket safari jacket and dress, leather-buckled kilts, pussy-bow blouses, unstructured long-line tailored jackets, silk dresses with soft drapes at the hips and shoulder straps pulled into the centre at the back, jackets with draped scarves thrown over shoulders
Colour: Saharan sand, khaki, black, scorched-earth reds and bitter chocolate brown, with tribal brights including banana yellow, leaf green and royal blue
Fabric & knit: Linen, cotton, printed silk crepe, knitted silks, thin butter-soft leather
Print & pattern: Leopard animalia, micro-dot repeat, graphic cross hatch, bleeding dip-dye, tie-dye, sun-bleaching
Details & trims: Printed linings, cowl drapes, hip swags, fringing, asymmetric or dipping hemlines, pined or knotted shape
Footwear: Strappy sandals with thin lace-up front panel
Accessories: Cardboard hats by Stephen Jones and collaborative jewellery created with Erickson Beamon - leather collars and liquorice swirl earrings, ribbon-tied leather cuffs, cuffs with huge pyramid studs, tribal collar necklaces

Richard Nicoll

            

Nicoll streamlined the 70s, rejecting the early bohemia seen elsewhere this season, and opting for the lean and minimal glamour of David Bowie, fused with his own graphic and architectural design style.

"My point of reference was 1976, that time before punk, and it was all about David Bowie's incarnation as the Thin White Duke, which led me to Angie Bowie and the influence of the way she dressed in the 70s. I wanted something that was hard but also felt nostalgic, then bringing my own signature into the look through the sportiness," Nicoll told WGSN.

The look: Graphic 70s
Silhouette: Long, lean and layered, sometimes caped
Key items: A continuation of the columnar sheer maxiskirts Nicoll offered last season, this time layered with short and swingy plissé skirts and teamed with corseted tops or bras (Richard Nicoll for Topshop) under sheer spotted tulle T-shirts. Tailoring arrived as structured cutaway dresses with kick-flare skirts, high-waist double pleat-front pants with wide legs, or as suede treggings cut like a second skin. An American sportswear influence arrived with the sleek baseball jackets, while 70s references could be found in the plissé maxidresses, plissé capes, and open-knit cardigans thrown over shoulders
Colour: Black, white, peach and blush
Fabric & knit: Chiffon, pleated organza, tulle point d'esprit, glitter bouclé wools, cotton, open-mesh knits embroidered with crystals, suede, leather and high-shine patent
Details & trims: Patent leather trims, plissé fins at the neckline, twinkling crystals, graphic panelling
Footwear: Peep-toe mesh shoe-boots in black patent by Christian Louboutin
Accessories: Crystal earpieces by Erickson Beamon using Swarovski Elements, sunglasses by Cutler & Gross and customised by Erickson Beamon using Swarovski Elements

Vivienne Westwood Red Label

            

It was a less chaotic collection from Vivienne Westwood this season, with minimal styling and a refocusing of signature tailoring. The calmer approach allowed for the collection's strong commercial propostion of wearable separates to shine through.
The look: Restrained signatures
Silhouette: A leaner silhouette than usual, concentration on strict tailoring and hidden corsetry
Key items: Narrowly tailored silhouettes offered slim-fit tapered pants, pencil skirts and form-following jackets with gathered volume at the shoulders or sleeve heads. Shirts were a key item, worn as dresses cinched with a ribbon belt or tucked neatly into skirts or shorts. Signature corseted dresses with swagged skirts and cowl necklines, loose-fit bias-cut T-shirt dresses in taffeta, short shorts with peek-a-boo box short-style linings, loose-fit cotton shorts, net kit capes, wrap cardigans
Colour: Summery shades of cornflower blue, powder pink, pale champagne gold, peach and dusted mauve, anchored with inky navy and lifted with a flash of silvery metallic
Fabric & knit: Slinky jerseys, slubby linen weaves, floral jacquards, taffeta, raw-edge tweeds, cotton, silk, degradé knits, gingham, net knits, floral intarsia carpet knits
Print & pattern: Woven patterns - pyjama stripes, madras/buffalo/windowpane checks, plaids. Placement T-shirt graphics including a chintzy floral bouquet transfer, a Gibson girl with ribbon typography, leopardprint in brown or blue, antique florals in red and blue on cream
Details & trims: Signature cowl drapes and twisted seams, flirty godet inserts in short-skirt hems, bouncy ruffled collars and necklines, asymmetrical hems and bias cuts, criss-cross lacings, silk fringing
Footwear: Kitten-heeled mules, peep-toed heels with ribbon ankle ties, mannish flats with webbing straps, buckled pirate boots, lace-up two-tone flat ankle boots - produced by Meg
Accessories: Rivet and eyelet belts, rope necklaces, heart pendants, ornate drop earrings, metal and enamel bangles, sweatbands. Heart-shaped clutch bag, sky-blue crocodile formal handbag - produced by Braccialini

Mulberry

            

The paper dolly invite was an early indication of the sweet girlishness that was to come at Mulberry, where a commercial collection of covetable separates was modelled alongside the brand's cult-like it-bags and developing footwear line.
The look: Playfully prim
Silhouette: Tapered legs and swingy A-lines
Key items: Flare-skirted chambray shirtdress, high-waisted gauchos and pleat-front peg pants, various skirt shapes including classic tulip and pencil skirts and a button-front A-line, silk blouses, DB trench coats, belted four-pocket leather jacket, short tailored jackets, midi-length sheath dresses
Colour: Copper orange, petticoat white, lilac and plum, cosmetique nudes, cornflower blue, navy, and surprising shots of electric blue
Fabric & knit: Cotton linen chambray, cashmere, jersey, silk and satin, woven jacquards, leathers, tiger-stripe burn-out
Print & pattern: Black or blue on white tiger stripes, washed neon florals
Details & trims: Multiple silk bows decorating necklines, rose corsages, Peter Pan collars, D-ring buckles, ruffled piping trims, laser-cut petals, paper-bag waists
Footwear: Clog-like booties, wedges and sandals in suede, snakeprint silk, sparkle tweeds and washed denim, with walnut and wood-effect outsoles and D-ring hardware
Accessories: Tillie bags (debuted for pre-summer 2011, featuring satchel-style belt-strap locks in drawstring shoulder-bag or messenger shapes); the new Cory bags (a structured tote, slouchy hobo with chain drawstring, or a mini hobo with cross-body strap, all featuring gold postman's lock with hammered effect); updated Alexa in plush finishes such as soft ostrich in electric blue or tumbled grain in metallic pink; a new Alexa  camera bag; updated Bayswater in new travel size; Lily bag, updated in washed denim or covered in Swarovski crystals, rivets and studs; printed silk scarves, bag charms of miniature Mulberry bags; belt pouches

Read more »