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Mary Katrantzou
The look: Home is where the heart is
Silhouette: Short and sharp with form-fitting dresses and lampshade-shaped skirts
Key items: The sheath dress provided the blank canvas for Katrantzou's prints, cut short and sharp with emphasis on the shoulderline to mirror a window pelmet, or with soft draped swathes falling from the hipline to emulate breezy curtains. Skirts were inspired by vintage lampshades and came as witty mini-crinnies, while shorts, a bow-tied chiffon blouse and short boxy jackets offered an alternative silhouette. High-low hemlines addressed one of next summer's strongest new silhouette directions
Colour: A riotous palette was played with an assured hand, melding browns and blues together, mixing reds and greens or soft garden pastels with fuchsia
Fabric & knit: Silks, cotton, georgette and gazar with velvet and flocked effects, raffia
Print & pattern: The interiors theme was taken to the max, with witty trompe l’oeil room sets, combined with iconic interior motifs for an almost collaged effect, offset with traditional florals
Details & trims: Beading and embroidery offset the intricate prints, while raffia - an emerging trend in this weekend - added unexpected texture. Swathes of pleated fabric emulated curtains, along with fringing
Footwear: High-heeled wedge raffia sandals, laced sandal boots
Accessories: Oversized crystal chandelier necklaces and candelabra-inspired neck pieces
Margaret Howell
Margaret Howell’s low-key shows are always a welcome oasis of calm in the frenzy of LFW, mirroring her understated approach to fashion.
The look: Gamine nauticalSilhouette: Simple and unstructured
Key items: A pleasing and commercial mix of classic jeans and chinos, pleat-front cuffed pants and culottes, teamed with immaculate cropped white cotton shirts or striped nautical tees. Outerwear was functional - think simple rubber-backed canvas macs or a swingy cropped duffle jacket, perfect to layer over a crystal-pleat skirt and easy summer knits. Dresses had a casual appeal, with striped linen T-shirt shifts, a perfect white linen bias-cut shift, and a camisole sundress
Colour: A classic palette of white, navy, cement, khaki and ivory, with fresh cornflower blue, primrose and mango as accents
Fabric & knit: Fresh simple fabrics with cottons and linens, striped silks, chambray-effect linen, rubber-backed canvas and fine-gauge knits
Print & pattern: Simple pyjama stripes, horizontal scale-mixed stripes
Details & trims: Cotton lace trim, a copper-coloured back zip, Petersham ribbon waistbands
Footwear: Functional crepe-soled loafers
Accessories: Saddlebag-style shoulder bags, narrow leather belts, straw hats, gingham neckerchiefs
Jasper Conran
The look:
Silhouette: Vintage-inspired with longer skirts and waisted emphasis
Key items: A whole holiday wardrobe that encompassed lean tailleurs, Chanel-esque jackets, tapered cigarette pants, simple scalloped-hem shell tops, sheer tees with appliquéd stripes, swingy crystal-pleated skirts and breezy waisted sundresses
Colour: A delicious confection of colour, with caramel, citrus, anise, lilac, tangerine, grenadine, mallow pink, mint green and chocolate, nasturtium and violet all offset with classic navy and white
Fabric & knit:
Print & pattern: A seaside postcard border print brought the whole collection together, working well with simple gingham checks
Details & trims: Flat tucks and pleats, flat quilting on taffeta, Petersham ribbon waist details
Footwear: Simple white plimsolls were the perfect contrast to the collection's retro looks and luxe fabrications
Accessories: Plissé taffeta flower belt, giant classically styled framed bags, layered organza hats, cloche hats, ribbon-tie belts
Julien Macdonald
A change of direction from Julien Macdonald, who swapped his signature sexy hard-edged glamour for languid boudoir romance.
The look: Summer romance
Silhouette: Bias-cut and languid worked alongside sporty casualwear
Key items: The delicate camisole dress was the key item of the collection, worked in every length, from miniscule slips to high-low-hemmed floor-sweeping silhouettes with caped backs and cascading bias ruffles. Soft poet's shirts, bubble-hemmed minis and trapeze-line baby-doll dresses completed the boudoir feel. Striped cotton casual pieces provided a pleasing contrast, with utility detailing on boxy jacket shapes and soft shorts
Colour: Ivory and blue for the casual pieces, offset with sherbet yellow, dusted lilac, forget-me-not blue, poudre pinks, flame red and mandarin
Fabric & knit: Ticking cottons added weight to the collection's flowing silk chiffons, Swiss embroidered sheers or cutwork, plissé sheers and quilted silk
Print & pattern: Delicate washes of floral prints contrasted with simple deckchair and ticking stripes
Details & trims: Webbing straps and hardware trims, delicate crystalline beading, guipure lace trims, high-low hemlines, ruffles, caped details
Footwear: High vampy laced sandals
Michael van der Ham
The fit and finishing may have left something to be desired, but there is no denying the exuberant love of colour and fabric that hallmarked Michael van der Ham's latest collection.
The look: An eclectic vintage collage
Silhouette: Elongated and lean
Key items: Elongated sheath dresses with high-low hemlines, matching pencil skirts with off-the-shoulder tops, caped-sleeve shift dresses, billowing caped sleeves creating a toga effect. Wide-legged pants added another dimension to the look, teamed with collaged tops or devoré shirts
Colour: An exuberant mismatch of colour, which teamed electric blue with sherbet yellow, a spectrum of pinks and purples with violet, dramatic reds and powder blues
Fabric & knit: Signature piecing and patching combined metallic tweeds with skin-patterned lamé jacquards, Swarovski-dusted jersey and custom-made devorés on velvet, satin and jersey grounds
Print & pattern: A melange of motifs worked in happy profusion - think abstract brushstrokes, feathers and leopardskin, often worked in tone-on-tone combinations
Details & trims: The trend for high-low hemlines mirrored the collection's patched aesthetic, along with asymmetric necklines, one-shouldered effects, ruched panels and silky fringing - another emerging trend this week
Footwear: Vividly coloured high-heeled velvet sandals with ribbon-laced ties and multicoloured patent trims
Accessories: Jewel-bright clutch bags with giant crystal trims
Matthew Williamson
Despite the off-the-beaten-track venue - a derelict power station on a grey autumn night - Matthew Williamson's spring/summer showing was an exuberantly uplifting affair full of joyous colour and pattern.
The look: Neo-safari
Silhouette: Williamson packed the silhouettes in, from elongated and floor-sweeping to short and sassy
Key items: The collection veered from the languid appeal of wide-pleated Oxford bags, flowing silk utility dresses with parachute draw cords, and safari-style all-in-ones, to tapered silk peg pants (a recurring theme so far this week) to short skating skirts decorated with tufted fringes and rows of sequins, to tulip-shaped bandeau dresses, breezy silk T-shirt shifts, and the full-on glamour of caped-backed brilliantly hued chiffon gowns
Colour: A full-on spectrum of colour, from sandy neutrals and safari khakis to warm ochres, vivid sunshine yellow, tangerine and lime, cobalt blue, cornflower, turquoise and washed neons with an iridescent sheen
Fabric & knit: Texture was a key feature, as flat cottons and washed silks were contrasted with fringed and sequined effects, blistered cloqué, iridescent satins, embossed skin patterns, metallic jacquards, metallic stretch-viscose jersey, chiffons or georgette, and an iridescent shimmering peacock-patterned jacquard
Print & pattern: A rich medley of print and pattern, with diffused florals, stencil prints, and abstracted all-overs
Details & trims: Williamson tapped into the emerging trend for fringing with his degradé fringes and tufted tiers combined with sequins. Elsewhere there were glittering crystals, rope-braided straps and macramé, pleats, parachute drawstrings and caped backs
Footwear: High vampy sandals with heavy block heels and platforms
Accessories: A signature boho vibe was in place for the long, swinging, fringed bags, tie-dye scarves, and the metal belts clasping narrow waists
Kinder Aggugini
It wasn't so much as the journey to Africa that interested me, but the fact that he went to discover something, and in the process of it, he was taken away by it and the change that must have occurred inside of him. So I started with structured tailoring, and it becomes softer and softer in fabric, then the tailoring becomes draped before being completely overtaken, with the dresses printed in the colours of Africas ," Aggugini told WGSN.
The look: African safariSilhouette: Ladylike tailoring layered with soft drapes
Key items: Four-pocket safari jacket and dress, leather-buckled kilts, pussy-bow blouses, unstructured long-line tailored jackets, silk dresses with soft drapes at the hips and shoulder straps pulled into the centre at the back, jackets with draped scarves thrown over shoulders
Colour: Saharan sand, khaki, black, scorched-earth reds and bitter chocolate brown, with tribal brights including banana yellow, leaf green and royal blue
Fabric & knit: Linen, cotton, printed silk crepe, knitted silks, thin butter-soft leather
Print & pattern: Leopard animalia, micro-dot repeat, graphic cross hatch, bleeding dip-dye, tie-dye, sun-bleaching
Details & trims: Printed linings, cowl drapes, hip swags, fringing, asymmetric or dipping hemlines, pined or knotted shape
Footwear: Strappy sandals with thin lace-up front panel
Accessories: Cardboard hats by Stephen Jones and collaborative jewellery created with Erickson Beamon - leather collars and liquorice swirl earrings, ribbon-tied leather cuffs, cuffs with huge pyramid studs, tribal collar necklaces
Richard Nicoll
Nicoll streamlined the 70s, rejecting the early bohemia seen elsewhere this season, and opting for the lean and minimal glamour of David Bowie, fused with his own graphic and architectural design style.
"My point of reference was 1976, that time before punk, and it was all about David Bowie's incarnation as the Thin White Duke, which led me to Angie Bowie and the influence of the way she dressed in the 70s. I wanted something that was hard but also felt nostalgic, then bringing my own signature into the look through the sportiness," Nicoll told WGSN.
The look: Graphic 70sSilhouette: Long, lean and layered, sometimes caped
Key items: A continuation of the columnar sheer maxiskirts Nicoll offered last season, this time layered with short and swingy plissé skirts and teamed with corseted tops or bras (Richard Nicoll for Topshop) under sheer spotted tulle T-shirts. Tailoring arrived as structured cutaway dresses with kick-flare skirts, high-waist double pleat-front pants with wide legs, or as suede treggings cut like a second skin. An American sportswear influence arrived with the sleek baseball jackets, while 70s references could be found in the plissé maxidresses, plissé capes, and open-knit cardigans thrown over shoulders
Colour: Black, white, peach and blush
Fabric & knit: Chiffon, pleated organza, tulle point d'esprit, glitter bouclé wools, cotton, open-mesh knits embroidered with crystals, suede, leather and high-shine patent
Details & trims: Patent leather trims, plissé fins at the neckline, twinkling crystals, graphic panelling
Footwear: Peep-toe mesh shoe-boots in black patent by Christian Louboutin
Accessories: Crystal earpieces by Erickson Beamon using Swarovski Elements, sunglasses by Cutler & Gross and customised by Erickson Beamon using Swarovski Elements
Vivienne Westwood Red Label
It was a less chaotic collection from Vivienne Westwood this season, with minimal styling and a refocusing of signature tailoring. The calmer approach allowed for the collection's strong commercial propostion of wearable separates to shine through.
The look: Restrained signatures
Silhouette: A leaner silhouette than usual, concentration on strict tailoring and hidden corsetry
Key items: Narrowly tailored silhouettes offered slim-fit tapered pants, pencil skirts and form-following jackets with gathered volume at the shoulders or sleeve heads. Shirts were a key item, worn as dresses cinched with a ribbon belt or tucked neatly into skirts or shorts. Signature corseted dresses with swagged skirts and cowl necklines, loose-fit bias-cut T-shirt dresses in taffeta, short shorts with peek-a-boo box short-style linings, loose-fit cotton shorts, net kit capes, wrap cardigans
Colour: Summery shades of cornflower blue, powder pink, pale champagne gold, peach and dusted mauve, anchored with inky navy and lifted with a flash of silvery metallic
Fabric & knit: Slinky jerseys, slubby linen weaves, floral jacquards, taffeta, raw-edge tweeds, cotton, silk, degradé knits, gingham, net knits, floral intarsia carpet knits
Print & pattern: Woven patterns - pyjama stripes, madras/buffalo/windowpane checks, plaids. Placement T-shirt graphics including a chintzy floral bouquet transfer, a Gibson girl with ribbon typography, leopardprint in brown or blue, antique florals in red and blue on cream
Details & trims: Signature cowl drapes and twisted seams, flirty godet inserts in short-skirt hems, bouncy ruffled collars and necklines, asymmetrical hems and bias cuts, criss-cross lacings, silk fringing
Footwear: Kitten-heeled mules, peep-toed heels with ribbon ankle ties, mannish flats with webbing straps, buckled pirate boots, lace-up two-tone flat ankle boots - produced by Meg
Accessories: Rivet and eyelet belts, rope necklaces, heart pendants, ornate drop earrings, metal and enamel bangles, sweatbands. Heart-shaped clutch bag, sky-blue crocodile formal handbag - produced by Braccialini
Mulberry
The look: Playfully prim
Silhouette: Tapered legs and swingy A-lines
Key items: Flare-skirted chambray shirtdress, high-waisted gauchos and pleat-front peg pants, various skirt shapes including classic tulip and pencil skirts and a button-front A-line, silk blouses, DB trench coats, belted four-pocket leather jacket, short tailored jackets, midi-length sheath dresses
Colour: Copper orange, petticoat white, lilac and plum, cosmetique nudes, cornflower blue, navy, and surprising shots of electric blue
Fabric & knit: Cotton linen chambray, cashmere, jersey, silk and satin, woven jacquards, leathers, tiger-stripe burn-out
Print & pattern: Black or blue on white tiger stripes, washed neon florals
Details & trims: Multiple silk bows decorating necklines, rose corsages, Peter Pan collars, D-ring buckles, ruffled piping trims, laser-cut petals, paper-bag waists
Footwear: Clog-like booties, wedges and sandals in suede, snakeprint silk, sparkle tweeds and washed denim, with walnut and wood-effect outsoles and D-ring hardware
Accessories: Tillie bags (debuted for pre-summer 2011, featuring satchel-style belt-strap locks in drawstring shoulder-bag or messenger shapes); the new Cory bags (a structured tote, slouchy hobo with chain drawstring, or a mini hobo with cross-body strap, all featuring gold postman's lock with hammered effect); updated Alexa in plush finishes such as soft ostrich in electric blue or tumbled grain in metallic pink; a new Alexa camera bag; updated Bayswater in new travel size; Lily bag, updated in washed denim or covered in Swarovski crystals, rivets and studs; printed silk scarves, bag charms of miniature Mulberry bags; belt pouches
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