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Dolce & Gabbana
After celebrating their 25th anniversary last season with a retrospective hit parade of signature looks, Dolce & Gabbana almost seemed to start afresh with their summer collection, conceptually wiping the slate clean with an all-white collection - save for a splash of leopard print or sexy black - all crafted in the most exquisite variants of Sicilian lace.
The look: The collection was titled Sicilian Sensuality
Silhouette: Tailored sheath versus swingy peasant
Key items: Abbreviated jackets with bracelet-length sleeves paired with short swingy skirts or tailored pencil sheath dresses ending below the knee; unstructured duster coats and cardigan-jackets; sheer peasant blouses and dresses with blouson volume at gathered waists or puffed sleeves; gaucho pants, smock tops, petticoat dresses, frilled-hem bloomers and pretty playsuits, sleeveless boleros, knitted edge-to-edge jackets, wide-strapped sundresses, slim-fitting tailleurs, cropped tops; a finale of lingerie-inspired chemises, slip dresses, petticoats and corset-and-maxi brief sets
Colour: White, white and more white, with a dash of black and natural-coloured leopard skinFabric & knit: White Sicilian lace, embroidered sheers, cutwork cottons and broderie, cotton tatting lace, crochet, lustrous silk, chiffon and georgette
Print & pattern: Leopard animalia, traditional yellow floral with creeping stems - on white ground
Details & trims: White lace appliqués on leopard or sheer, broderie panels, scalloped hems, crystal diamond trims and twinkling silver rhinestones, corset lacing
Footwear: Wooden platform high-heeled sling-backs in clear plastic, decorated with white crochet lace flowers or mules with rosette detail
Accessories: Signature Miss Sicily handbags in white cotton lace; clear plastic formal handbag with lace appliqué; small across-body bags with chain strap decorated with gold coins and dangling jewels; crochet clutch bags in gold lurex yarns and diamond crystal trim or white knitted crochet with gold chain inlays; gold hoop earrings; chandelier earrings with paste stones and jewels; gold cluster necklaces and bracelets or fine gold necklaces with small cross pendants
Marni
Consuelo Castiglioni continued with her own distinctive brand of madcap mixology at Marni yesterday, this time with a strong sports theme to give her offbeat aesthetic a punchy graphic twist.
The look: Graphic sports
Silhouette: Elongated layers and dropped waists
Key items: Trapeze tunics over cycling shorts; long-line zip-through scuba tops with asymmetric pelmet ruffle; laser-cut leather coats; collareless dropped-sleeved jackets and coats cinched at the waist with double belts; two-tone scuba treggings cropped mid-calf, or cropped pants with double-ruffle cuffs; wide-cut tees with narrow stand-up collar; tunic dresses with asymmetric double-ruffled hems; macramé lace minidresses; curved-hem leather A-line dress; criss-cross laced knitted long-sleeved sweaters; tops with flouncy dropped-waist peplums
Colour: Trademark bold colour combinations such as parrot green with beige and tan; pink and purple with orange; royal blue and sunshine yellow edged in black; flashes of salmon or blush pinks and neon orange
Fabric & knit: Laser-cut leather, dense stretch knits, jersey, crumpled linen, cotton, Aertex mesh, gauzy organza sheers
Print & pattern: Tropical-coloured vintage florals, signature sports and honeycomb geometrics, diagonal graphic stripes layered in contrasting directions, psychedelic swirls and florals
Details & trims: Leather tape ribbons with silver aglets, daisy appliqués on sheers, sporty raglan sleeves, colour-blocking edged in black trim, signature all-over macro-paillettes
Footwear: Flat kiltie-fringed sandals with wide soles, kiltie-fringed sandals with woven platform and high block heels, mid-heeled wood-platform sandals with shaped vamp and buckled straps
Accessories: Reduced-proportion sunglasses with elliptical frames; soft leather sports helmets; tubular assemblage necklaces with large ball-bearing beads, cylinders, clustured boules and transparent resin modules with pyrite inerts; overscaled flat-linked chains with enamelled geometric inserts; foldable square calfskin bags with contrast-coloured patent leather handles; knitted bags with embellished bases; framed handbags in two-tone basket woven leather or raffia; bucket bags in patent leather or featuring geometrical intarsias
Missoni
"It was about energy after two years of crisis," Angela Missoni said. Indeed full of vivacious exuberance, there was also a strong youthful undercurrent, perhaps influenced by the increasing involvement of daughter Margherita. Maybe this collection signalled a transitional phase for the family-run house, but transition can be an awkward time for a brand before it finds its new feet.
"I wanted to play with fashion and have fun. I wanted a blank canvas so that I could experiment with a lot of new techniques, like working with nylon and doubling with tulle, in order to keep both lightness and structure," Angela Missoni told WGSN.
The look: Mexican fiesta in Las Vegas colourSilhouette: A-line flare and boxy columns, a variety of lengths
Key items: Ankle-length dresses, cape-sleeved tent dresses, maxiskirts, beaded cropped tops worn with side-split Bermuda shorts or A-line skirts with a wide waistband; side-split gaucho pants; kaftans; long waistcoats; a wide-sleeved duster coat with fringing at the back; midi-length trapeze dresses that hang away from the body; long-line tunics over midi skirts; a skaterdress with sheer underlayer
Colour: Violet, orange, sky blue, lemon yellow with fluorescent green and neon pink, edged in graphic black
Fabric & knit: Mexican zigzags, fret zigzags, macro flame-stitch, high-tech structural nylon inserts, jacquards
Print & pattern: Irreverent slogans such as Going Bold, Pocket Rocket, Give Me Honey Baby, and Shaking All Over. Colour-blocking, geometric pattern-blocking, graphic zigzags, Mexican stripes and weave patterns, border patterns
Details & trims: Tabard-like side straps, pointed handkerchief hems, sequined letters, apron ties at the back, cutouts, patchwork, over-embroidered sequins and appliqués, beaded fringing, side splits, cape sleeves
Footwear: Multicoloured knit-tie sandals with low stubby heels in fluoro colours
Accessories: Floppy square-brimmed sun hats; kitsch charm bracelets; frameless octagonal sunglasses with flat built-up bridges; shoulder-strap bags and knitted leather handbags carried in clear plastic bags
Versus
The look: Punk-meets-preppy chic
Silhouette: Sassy body-con silhouettes but with a girlish appeal
Key items: Dresses formed the crux of the collection, with short flippy apron wraps through to elongated asymmetric ruched sheaths in mixed plaids and prints. Other key dress shapes included fit-and-flare colour-blocked skater dresses with form-fitting bra tops and apron-wrap skirts. Cycle shorts, narrow stove pants and striped pencil skirts teamed with ruched tops continued the body-con theme, softened with a lean blouson jacket and semi-sheer cardigans or knits
Colour: Colour was hard-edged and bright, from the black-ground plaids that came in two or three colourways, to micro prints in shades of blue or red. A Mondrian-like palette of brights - poppy, cerulean, jade and magenta - was worked into Cubist-inspired flat blocks of clashing colour
Fabric & knit: Stretch plaids in several colourways, mixed in happy profusion; semi-sheer knits and nylon, leather, stretch cottons
Print & pattern: Traditional plaids came as prints and weaves; micro florals on dark grounds
Details & trims: Small collegiate crest badges, rouleau ties, strategically placed cutouts, ribbed welt trims, godet fans of crystal pleats
Footwear: X-strap sandals, chunky T-bars, shoe boots with contrast trims
Accessories: Clutch purses and satchel-style shoulder bags in plaid with bright trims
Salvatore Ferragamo
Salvatore Ferragamo's latest collection tapped into several of the season's key trends, with longer lengths and a luxuriously worked early-70s vibe.
"The inspiration came from a movie of the late 60s - La Piscine. I didn't want to be nostalgic, but I did want to capture the atmosphere. I decided to play with deeper lengths because I really wanted to make a story about retranslating that elegance and sensuality in a refined way." Massimiliano Giornetti told WGSN.
The look: Early-70s peasant dressing with a luxe twist
Silhouette: Elongated and casually styled
Key items: The long tiered peasant skirt or maxidress featured in several colourways and fabrications, skirts teamed with midriff-baring cropped knits or halter tops. The tailored pantsuit came with a 70s edge in the flared cropped pant shapes, and there were 70s influences too in the safari jackets, leather-trimmed A-line skirts, the full-sleeved smock shirts, and the flippy crochet suede-trimmed dresses. Outerwear was luxuriously unstructured, with bathrobe-wrap trench coats and swingy casual jackets
Colour: A luxe palette of ivory and white, warm sand and caramel shading, through to lemon and mimosa, into sage greens, cornflower blue, teal and ink
Fabric & knit: Macramé and crochet compounded the 70s look, along with summer suede, linen and cotton poplins, canvas, leather, sheers and embroidered voiles
Print & pattern: A subtle leafy border print on white grounds and a floral/foliage all-over pattern in muted colours on white
Details & trims: Halternecks, rouleau straps, self-coloured embroidered appliqués on semi-sheer grounds
Footwear: Simple raffia and canvas with the luxe touch of python and crocodile for uber-flat sandals, laced-leg gladiators and two-tone pumps
Accessories: Headscarves, crochet long-strapped bags, alligator-trimmed dual-handle bags, leather belts with everything, chokers and pendants in metallic mesh and wood
Aquilano & Rimondi
A change of beat from Aquilano & Rimondi, who opted for vivid colour, an elongated silhouette and a newly youthful vibe.
The look: Subtle 70s references
Silhouette: Elongated and neat
Key items: Long skirts slashed to the thigh; tiered peasant skirts and neat blouses; long jersey tube dresses in mixed prints; floral-patterned pantsuits; pencil skirts and short-shorts, square-cut tees worked in sequins and stripes; asymmetric one-shouldered dresses; ruched midriffs on long sheath dresses; crisp tailored blazers and slashed pencil skirts
Colour: Colour was a riotous mix of cobalt, yellow, mandarin, jade, lime, brick red and soft poudre pink, offset with accents of magenta, black and white, and a flash of citric neon as a finale
Fabric & knit: Printed cottons and voiles, double-faced satin, sequins, plissé silks, crepe de chine
Print & pattern: Simple colourful 70s floral combination print worked on black grounds, stripes, spots, small micro pattern
Details & trims: Contrast braid trims, intense beading patterns with jewelled trims, contrast piping, ruching effects
Footwear: High strappy sandals in brights
Accessories: Narrow brightly coloured belts
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