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Inspired by the artist Christo’s large-scale wrappings, Nicole Farhi took her collection in a clean and minimalist direction, combining sharp architectural lines with an exploration of technical or subversive fabrics.
The look: New-wave minimalism
Silhouette: Loosely columnar with layered lengths
Key items: Sporty shift dresses in pleated sheers, tanks (US: vests) and "fencing" vests with criss-cross canvas straps at the back; on-trend items such as the apron-front dress, sheer T-shirts or columnar maxiskirt, here layered with an elongated sleeveless jacket. Also wide-leg pants, tulip skirts, sleeveless trench coat, halterneck dresses and organza blazers
Colour: Tonal lemon and sunshine yellows, vivid nasturtium pink and palest peach, royal blue and navy, set against vapour grey and optic white. Iridescent white gold and moonshine silvers
Fabric & knit: Technical nylons, razor-cut laminated cupros, latex, patent leather, platinum lamé, nylon mesh, paper-cut or crushed cottons, jerseys, organza sheers, taffeta, voile, super-fine sheer knits
Print & pattern: A dappled floral in washed neons diffused beneath a layer of nylon mesh; digital abstract geometrics
Details & trims: Transparent square-cut pailettes, pleated stripes, spliced sheer panels, twisted sheers, crinkle finishes, angel-hair fringing
Footwear: Flat sandals and mid-height heels in tan and coloured leathers with clear plastic strap
Accessories: Skinny PVC belts - either clear or colour-tinted; extra-long ribbon belts
Erdem
A glorious autumn afternoon and a garden setting provided the picture-perfect backdrop for the latest Erdem collection full of feminine silhouettes, delicate fabrics and romantic prints.
The look: Summer romance
Silhouette: Feminine fit-and-flare, and soft tailored separates
Key items: The fit-and-flare dress was worked in a variety of looks, cut to the knee with elegantly formed feminine proportions. The feminine mood continued with a play on pretty blouse-and-skirt combinations, ranging from fluted hems to soft full dirndls and a floor-sweeping silhouette in godet panelled lace. Blouses were worked with pretty lace collars or came as simple shell tops in lace and sheer, while a more casual appeal came into play with easy shirtdresses, tailored shirts and relaxed narrow pants
Colour: Delicate paper white, vivid poppy red, inky blues, buttermilk and black
Fabric: Lace in every weight, from the most delicate to embroidered cutwork and over-embroidered qualities. Sheers, cottons and silk
Print & pattern: A vivid poppy print, harlequin patchwork, mixed florals
Details & trims: Delicate dustings of Swarovski crystals added to the fairytale look
Footwear: High sandals with ballet shoe-inspired ties
Mark Fast
Mark Fast continued his signature riff with his customary form-fitting knits. However, some of the more jaded members of the fashion press in the packed audience wonder if it isn’t time the designer developed a new tune and explored new silhouettes.
The look: Dare to bare with glittering embellishment
Silhouette: Form-fitting shapes softened with swishing fringes
Key items: The complex cobweb structures of the knitted body-con dress formed the crux of the collection, updated this season with panels morphing into cobweb-like torsos, subsequently morphing into silken tasselled fringes, or with panels of high-shine patent and crystal embellishment. Patent bra tops, body-con skirts, leggings and cycle shorts were worked into the mix
Colour: Black highlighted with vivid rainbows of fuchsia, poppy, turquoise, watermelon and peach, with chrome yellow, white and baby blue
Fabric & knit: Mixed-gauge yarns, patent, metallic leather
Details & trims: Ombréd fringing, silken tassels, halternecks, cutouts and crystal embellishment to define form-fitting shapes
Footwear: High block platforms with laced details, snakeskin sandals with cork wedges by Christian Louboutin and Mark Fast
Accessories: Swarovski jewellery designed by Mark Fast
Holly Fulton
A strong showing from Holly Fulton, who showed she can combine her signature prints with accomplished design skills, as she moved up a notch with a very professionally worked collection.
The look: Luxe resort
Silhouette: Sharp 60s glamour
Key items: Retro-style glamour was high on the agenda, with Fulton’s sharp shift dresses, wide-cut palazzo pants, slick pencil skirts and bejewelled shell tops. The emerging trend for raffia was addressed, with raffia-fringed hemlines and a dramatic bolero teamed with a sexy high-cut swimsuit. Skating skirts offered a contrasting silhouette, along with slinky maxis and soft sarong wraps
Colour: Fulton’s prints were accentuated with her fulsome palette of vivid summer brights and complementary toning pales. Think bright turquoise, chrome yellow and mandarin, teamed with pale aqua, primrose, blush and mallow
Fabric & knit: High-shine patent with laser-cut motifs combined with silks and taffeta, python and ponyskin, offset with novelty raffia fringing
Print & pattern: Fulton sited the Memphis group as print inspiration this season, with irregular graphic mosaic shards appearing alongside her signature almost Deco-like geometrics, highlighted with glittering crystal embellishment and engineered placements. A finale print was of soft tonal clouds, embedded with crystals
Details & trims: Raffia fringing, chain straps, brace clips, crystals, intricate beading, jewelled halter collars
Footwear: Towering Louboutin courts in patent, crystal or bi-coloured leather
Accessories: Laser-cut wood, perspex and crystal merged with skins and studs for statement jewellery. Raffia clutch bags and mini attaché cases in graphic prints
David Koma
David Koma opted for strong silhouettes for his spring/summer showing, marrying his signature body-conscious looks with graphic appliqués.
The look: Graphic lines
Silhouette: Body-conscious, emphasised with linear pieced effects
Key items: Body-con sheaths were given an added dimension layered with gathered tutu-inspired skirt belts, that same balletic inspiration colouring Koma’s full godet-panelled skating skirts. Elsewhere it was all about the pencil skirt or tailored suit, pieced with linear graphic panels and sheer inserts
Colour: The palette was a mix of fragile and hard with graphic black and white offset by blush pink and pale primrose. Gold added the final glittering touch
Fabric & knit: Delicate chiffons, organza and tulle-panelled jersey worked alongside embossed leather, python skin and Italian wool, with gold and black pailettes for a touch of theatrical drama
Details & trims: Linear pieced snakeskin panels, metallic embellished placements, high-low hems, halternecks, racer backs
Footwear: High wedged sandals and ankle boots, specially designed by Alain Quilici
Accessories: Ruched tutu belts in leather and snakeskin, metal cuffs and knuckleduster rings by Mawi
Peter Pilotto
A polished spring/summer collection from Peter Pilotto, full of elegantly elongated silhouettes and muted colour working in perfect harmony together.
The look: Chic and minimal with a sportswear edge
Silhouette: Elongated and reed thin
Key items: Long ankle-skimming pleated skirts and dresses, overlayed with asymmetric wraps, micro biker jackets or apron wrap skirts. Corseted-effect tops and high-necked form-fitting knits defined the topweights within the collection, while wide-pleated pants and flared knitted trousers added a change of pace for bottomweights
Colour: Muted saxe blue, cinnamon, ivory and black, taupe and stone
Fabric & knit: Liquid jersey, sportswear fabrics, parachute silk, crinkled silk for texture. Ribbed plated knits
Print & pattern: The design duo returned to screen printing this season, with 3D-effect lace and tweed prints, along with diffused patterns and a multicoloured stippled print
Details & trims: Fluttering ribbons contrasted with the more sporty elements of exposed gold zips and form-defining top stitching. Sporty panelling and colour-blocking
Footwear: High hollow-heeled shoes with a Cubist feel by Nicholas Kirkwood
Accessories: Gold chokers and narrow belts by Scott Wilson
Pringle of Scotland
The burgeoning trend for minimalism reached Scotland last night, as Pringle succumbed to the clean and graphic aesthetic that has been sweeping the industry.
“It was an exploration of two different ideas. Part of it was something very feminine, very frivolous, which came through in the feathers and the fringe, and then this austerity, something quite clean and pared down reacting against that. It’s how girls are every day - one day you want something chic and smart, and the next day you want something more girl,” Clare Waight Keller told WGSN
The look: Graphic minimalism, clean sports luxe
Silhouette: Clean lines, narrow and long or mid-length A-line
Key items: The reinvented kilt is always the star piece for Pringle - summer’s update arrived with a perforated mesh or tulle overlay. Other key skirt shapes included a short pencil with asymmetric hip panels, sheer wrap skirts and aprons, either in leather or suede, creating an open-fronted A-line. Shorts were also important - either wide-cut and pleat-front, or tailored with an elasticated-waist gingham under-short. Skirts and shorts were paired with sporty sleeveless tanks (US: vests), mannish button-down shirts or structured T-shirts with wide funnel necks, while knee-length sleeveless dresses featured stand-up Nehru collars
Colour: Optic black and white with nude, camel and sky, or cornflower blues
Fabric & knit: Lightweight mesh, leather, suede, cotton, tulle. Hand-knitted hairpin crochet, knitted lace Argyle hand-woven with silk tape, stripped and knitted gingham shirting, a raker double crochet stitch in graphic pointelle, James Pringle family tartan in various guises of gingham, windowpane check and houndstooth
Details & trims: Tufted or feathered fringing, ribbon threads, embroidered cable patterns, double kilt buckles in silver, sheer tulle overlays, cutaway backs, stand-up Nehru collars
Footwear: Feather-trimmed strappy sandals with wide ankle spat featuring a silver kilt buckle
Giles
After his sleek, chic and uber-ladylike winter collection, Giles Deacon returned to his pop-culture roots for summer, fusing 90s pop trash colours and cartoons with on-trend 70s shapes.
The look: Acid pop meets 70s suburbia
Silhouette: Equal offerings of sexy body-con, flared A-lines and long-line columns
Key items: 70s staples such as knitted tank tops over long-sleeved silk shirtdresses; matching shirt and flared-trouser combos; midi-length A-line skirts and button-through pinafore dresses. A continuation of last season's shapely 60s-inspired body-con dresses, a sexy wrap dress revealing a corset, sheer blouses, shrunken sweaters, and a finale of eveningwear ranging from tutu-skirted prom dresses to lean but drapey goddess gowns
Colour: Neon brights, lemon yellow, navy, coffee crème, khaki and black
Fabric & knit: Cartoonish Fair Isle knits; printed silks, cottons and chiffon; laddered and swagged knits; tulle tutu underlayers
Print & pattern: Double spots, trompe l’oeil bows, flowers and eyeballs, crossed plasters (US: band aids), a placement T-shirt graphic of a cartoon character wearing a pair of heart-shaped sunglasses
Details & trims: Micro ruffles, large buttons, long fringing, piping and contour seaming, Peter Pan collars
Footwear: Ruffled sneakers in pale candy colours, strappy mules, peep-toe sandals
Accessories: Pompom hats and collars, cat's eye sunglasses, chiffon scarves
Meadham Kirchhoff
Wandering through a fantastical floral set designed by Philip Wiegard and florist Nikki Tibbles, which was scented with Penhaligon's Bluebell fragrance, Meadham Kirchhoff sent out a parade of dark dollies with colour-streaked hair, punk T-shirts and quivering lace frills.
The look: Miss Havisham on acid
Silhouette: Layered with an abundance of ruffled tiers
Key items: A series of dolly-collared sheer blouses, and dresses gathered at the waist and erupting in tiers of frilly ruffles. Ruffled bolero shrugs or glittery knit cardigans worn over wide-cut printed tees; a capelet dress with cut-away panels at the torso; cutwork blouses with pin-tucked or pleated details on sleeves; boxy cropped biker jackets
Colour: A flashy-clashy palette of scarlet red, princess pink, lemon sherbet, dusted mauve, smoke grey, sky blue, khaki, and flashes of neon yellow
Fabric & knit: Lace, pleated chiffon sheers, point d’esprit tulle, lurex glitter knits, printed cottons, painted denim, leather
Print & pattern: Punkish graphics - portrait prints, graffiti scribbles, thrash-metal typography, lacy trompe l’oeil doily motif, micro dots
Details & trims: Twinkling sequins, lace inserts, pintucking, frilly tiers, geometric cutwork, princess collars, plissé sheers
Footwear: Shoes by Pollini for Meadham Kirchhoff - glittery Mary Janes with low block-heels
Accessories: Chunky knee-high socks, ribbon chokers, lace gloves with ruffled cuff and trailing ribbons, headpieces decorated with ceramic flowers, paste jewels and glitter by Nasir Mazhar
Paul Smith
Paul Smith loves to borrow from the boys, sending out his girls in reappropriated menswear pieces such as shirts stretched into maxidresses, a tuxedo transformed into a silky playsuit, or pocket kerchiefs pinned together to form a ruffled rara skirt.
The look: Gender-bending with a pinch of 50s teddy-boy styling
Silhouette: Tailored and tapered
Key items: Skinny cropped trousers were cut at the ankle and teamed with masculine button-downs or breezy blouson silk shirts. Tailored suits arrived with subtly oversized boyfriend jackets and tapered peg pants with turn-up cuff, or were transposed into playsuits. All-in-ones were a recurring key item, arriving as playsuits with dropped elasticated waists; a super-short option morphed from a tailored waistcoat or a floral-printed loose-cut sheer jumpsuit. Dresses were either tailored shifts or maxi shirtdresses, with shirt tails exaggerated to become sexy thigh-high splits. Elsewhere, there were simple knitted sweaters, tailored city shorts in micro houndstooth, and super-wide cotton oxford bags
Colour: Signature Paul Smith favourites - slate grey, copper orange, two-tone black merlot, papal purple, lemon sherbet, teal, lime and chocolate
Fabric & knit: Two-tone silks and lustrous wool mohair, silk charmeuse, cotton shirtings, sheer knits, bumblebee striped knits, micro houndstooth, printed chiffon sheers
Print & pattern: Marbled print in autumnal colours of copper, ochre and brown; photoreal chintzy florals; traditional polka dots and shirting stripes
Details & trims: Printed silk trims, linings and surprise panels; pocket kerchiefs used to created ruffles
Footwear: Clear plastic slingbacks with contrast leather toe in bright colours; flat brogue mules in coloured leathers or clear plastic
Accessories: Minimal leather belts, Ray-Ban Clubmaster-style sunglasses, oversized clutch bags carried under the arm, slim short-handled briefcases, silk scarves and neckerchiefs, ties
Roksanda Ilincic
A beautifully assured collection from Roksanda Ilincic, who played with cloud-like silhouettes and an ethereal colour palette for spring/summer 2011.
The look: Dreamlike 70s
Silhouette: Unstructured and weightless
Key items: A relaxed, flowing trenchcoat layered over wide pants teamed with a barely there luxurious shell top. Dresses and skirts were the ultimate in simplicity, coming as shifts, almost kaftan shapes, or simple wraps, all with asymmetric draping or swathed effects. Pant shapes from the 70s were immaculately cut, and for after six, there were billowing caped-back dresses and a couture-like grey silk-faille gown with ruched and pleated details on a one-shouldered bodice
Colour: A beautiful light palette of smoky greys, mallow and taupe, highlighted with a vivid Schiaparelli pink, cool iced blue, saxe blue, turquoise, teal and soft lilac
Fabric: The ethereal nature of Ilincic’s silhouettes demanded the lightest of fabrics - gazars and organzas, crystalline beaded silk georgette, sueded silk and cloqué-effect sheers, with metallic linen adding a more structured feel
Details & trims: Asymmetric wrap and drape details, ribbon ties, delicate Solstiss lace edging, tiny frosted beaded trims
Footwear: High double-strap block heels and elegant courts, both by Nicholas Kirkwood
Accessories: Millinery emulating 70s-style gypsy scarves in silk organza, by Noel Stewart
Christopher Kane
Christopher Kane ditched last season’s subversive good-girl-gone-bad in favour of retro-styled elegance, albeit a "tongue-in-chic" elegance.
The look: Tongue-in-cheek sophisticate
Silhouette: Ladylike vintage with knee-length proportions
Key items: The emerging trend for pleats manifested itself, with box-pleated skirts teamed with boxy cardigan jackets, or Argyle cashmere tank tops and twinsets. Simple shift dresses came with V-necklines and box-pleat skirts, or with gentle waist shaping, cut-in shoulderlines and a godet skirt. The mood changed with godet-trimmed camisole dresses and printed knits worked in a tattoo print with banded leather trims
Colour: After last season’s riff on black, Kane went back to his beloved neon palette, which he worked with an assured hand - zingy eye-searing shocking pinks, orange, lime, jade and sulphur yellow, undercut with espresso brown and more muted midtone brights in prints
Fabric & knit: Vinyl-coated laser-cut leather made to emulate lace, superfine lace, Swiss embroidered voile, embroidered voiles
Print & pattern: An oriental Japonesque tattoo print worked in midtone brights on wovens and knits. Tattoo-inspired embroidery placements
Details & trims: Vertical, diagonal and horizontal pintucks to emphasise design detailing, halternecks, cutouts, piping, applied banding details, embroidered appliqués
Footwear: High bi-colour platform sandals with contrast piping and ankle ties
Accessories: Simple narrow belts
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