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Jason Wu
The bold, blooming colour at Jason Wu was inspired by Brazilian artist Beatriz Milhazes, and the ladylike details a nod to Wu’s favourite fashion illustrator, Rene Gruau. Wu also presented his first full accessories line of footwear, bags and opticals.
The look: City-chic socialite
Silhouette: A strong emphasis on tailoring, with 70s-inspired flared trousers alongside signature cocktailwear
Key items: Embossed silk blazer with tweed shorts, sheer chiffon blouse with Chantilly lace yoke, flared gabardine trouser with pin-tuck front detail, wool gabardine cascade-front skirt, black ruffle anorak, sarong-like draped floral skirt in chiffon, degrade "Ginko" petal skirt, floral chiffon ruffle halter dress, white over-long tuxedo jacket, bow-tie blouse in organza, sheer stripe pullover
Colour: Accent brights of violet, fuchsia and lime against classic combinations of black with white, navy and cream
Fabric & knit: Chiffon, gabardine, organza, tulle, tweed, point d’esprit, techno twill, Chantilly lace, cotton piqué
Print & pattern: Spotty florals
Details & trims: Crystal-dotted chiffon, cascade ruffles, clipped-chiffon petals, lace yoke detail, organza bows, petal-like frills
Footwear: Wu’s first shoe collection offered sandals and courts with horn-shaped heels, contrast fore-part platforms and shaped vamps
Accessories: Oversized opticals with round or slightly peaked frames, snakeskin clutches, framed handbags and leather totes
Ports 1961
It was Fiona Cibani's turn in the spotlight this season, as she took over the reins from her sister Tia, who departed as creative director this summer. The designer cited Northern Africa's curving sand dunes as inspiration for sculpted dresses and gently draped gowns.
The look: Artful organic
Silhouette: Asymmetrically draped and off-the-shoulder, breezy summer shapes were anchored with waist belts
Key items: Cape-like trench with dipping asymmetrical hem, black and white dolman jacket, flared-leg trousers, long wrapping sweaters, flutter-sleeve blouse
Colour: Sandy neutrals punctuated with rich jewel tones of amethyst, emerald and yellow topaz. Pearlescent silvers and iridescent rosé add metallic shimmer
Fabric & knit: Silk crepe, silk burnout, featherweight chiffon and liquid satin, metallic-shot linens, cool summer cotton
Print & pattern: Organic references led to marbled mineral and strata prints, while a mosaic motif articulated the North African inspirations
Details & trims: Rosettes, clipped chiffon, iridescent crystals and flat studs, back drapery
Accessories: Flesh-coloured belts, crystal-studded belts, iridescent ribbon necklaces, crystal and gold tassel necklaces
Rag & Bone (women)
British troops stationed in North Africa in 1950 was the starting point for Marcus Wainwright and David Neville, who moved from parachute straps and harness bras to garter-style shorts worthy of a modern-day pin-up.
"What we’ve been doing for a while is that hard-and-soft thing, and we wanted to take it as far as it could go," designer Marcus Wainwright told WGSN.
The look: Utility sports with a touch of feminine sexuality
Silhouette: Maxi-length skirts and narrow trousers with tailored tops and jackets
Key items: Broderie anglaise trouser with parachute straps, silver skirt with broderie anglaise trim, wide-strap harness bra, panelled blazer in nude and red, multicolour macramé shell over sheer chiffon dress, wide bouclé knit jacket, nude mesh suspender short worn under short, mint-green chiffon blouse with cargo pockets
Colour: White, nude, tan, lipstick red, aqua, mint green, silver and black
Fabric & knit: Military twills, wool, leather and suede, contrasted with girlish broderie anglaise, chiffon, mesh and cotton
Print & pattern: Prints collaged from desert and tropical scenes
Details & trims: Parachute straps, cargo pockets, buckles, garter-style undershorts, chiffon layers
Footwear: Thick-straped or lace-up platform sandals with exaggerated treads
Accessories: Strappy rucksacks
Doo.Ri
A deliciously feminine palette and soft body-con drapes melded beautifully to create a fresh summery look at Doo.Ri.
The look: Summer goddess
Silhouette: Soft, draped shapes offset with slouchy masculine-inspired tailoring
Key items: Soft, draped tops and simple toga-like shifts were offset with the contrast of slouchy tailored pants or the season's emerging hot item, the shorts suit. A white masculine pantsuit worked perfectly against the backdrop of twisted and knotted knits, cropped bra tops, or a draped tulip-shaped shift layered under a tailored waistcoat (US: vest)
Colour: A soothing palette of alabaster pales with soft tinted white and jonquil yellow
Fabric & knit: Fluid jersey and softly draped sheers, summer cloqués and tinted brocades with summer suede and all-over sequins for a touch of low-key lustre
Print & pattern: A painterly abstracted all-over worked on matt and sequin grounds
Details & trims: Asymmetric shoulderlines and asymmetric drapery
Footwear: High, ruched sandal boots in palest alabaster grey
Silhouette: Soft, draped shapes offset with slouchy masculine-inspired tailoring
Key items: Soft, draped tops and simple toga-like shifts were offset with the contrast of slouchy tailored pants or the season's emerging hot item, the shorts suit. A white masculine pantsuit worked perfectly against the backdrop of twisted and knotted knits, cropped bra tops, or a draped tulip-shaped shift layered under a tailored waistcoat (US: vest)
Colour: A soothing palette of alabaster pales with soft tinted white and jonquil yellow
Fabric & knit: Fluid jersey and softly draped sheers, summer cloqués and tinted brocades with summer suede and all-over sequins for a touch of low-key lustre
Print & pattern: A painterly abstracted all-over worked on matt and sequin grounds
Details & trims: Asymmetric shoulderlines and asymmetric drapery
Footwear: High, ruched sandal boots in palest alabaster grey
Wispy silk sheaths fluttered off the shoulder in a sharp but delicately cut spring collection from BCBG Max Azria.
The look: Angelic asymmetry
Silhouette: Off-shoulder and draped around the body, from short sheaths to long gowns
Key items: Crepe dress with trailing cap sleeves in chiffon and asymmetrical hem, one-shoulder crepe dress, silk laser-cut (reverse fringe) dress, yellow organza strapless with cut-out embroidery, tiered silk dress, silk seersucker halter gown
Colour: A barely there palette of white, ash, taupe and nude, with a finale of coral, canary yellow, warm pink and black
Fabric & knit: Summery and light in silk seersucker, silk crepe, white gauze, linen, chiffon, tulle and organza
Print & pattern: A black-on-white trompe l'oeil lace
Details & trims: Sheer panels, cascade ruffles and asymmetrical cuts, cut-work embroideries, laser-cut tiers
Footwear: Cut-away sandals with ankle straps
Peter Som
Peter Som’s electric colour palette brought pool and popsicle colours to the New York runways yesterday, as he flirted with his luxe signature using snakeskin and marble prints.
"It was a combination of Miami Beach, Peggy Guggenheim and Op Art. I really wanted a fun, uplifting collection," the designer told WGSN.
The look: Young, pool-party chic
Silhouette: Short with a natural waistline and flirty ruffles here and there
Key items: Floral brocade minidress, sleeveless silk button-down with contrast solid placket, malachite marble-print short, flamingo-pink snakeskin shift, tweed jacket with khaki panels and sleeves, draped miniskirt in white micro-sequins, georgette dress with tweed appliqués, black "bouquet" clipped tulle skirt, Op Art striped dress in crepe de chine, high-waist short short
Colour: A candied palette of parma violet, bright turquoise, flamingo pink, popsicle orange, tomato red and canary yellow
Fabric & knit: Silk brocade, leather, silk, organza, tweed, cotton, georgette, tulle, cotton guipure, wool
Print & pattern: Snakeskin, malachite marble print, acid leopardprint, houndstooth
Details & trims: Clipped tulle, micro-sequins
Footwear: Vertiginous platform-wedges by Charlotte Olympia
Accessories: Extra-long waist belts in bright leather
Billy Reid
Billy Reid stuck to his roots, offering soft summer tailoring and relaxed separates with a vintage American appeal.
"My head was really in Southern Louisiana - I grew up there," the designer told WGSN.
The look: Southern gentleman with an old-world charm
Silhouette: True-waisted tailoring with a relaxed fit, contradicted with soft sportswear separates
Key items: Linen/cotton nailhead dobby doublebreasted suits, classic cotton dress shirts, sporty cotton/cashmere tennis stripe V-neck sweater. Pants came as cropped high-rise tailored shapes, or were casually styled with a rolled hem. Soft unstructured SBs were worked in checks or coated cotton, while a caramel leather lineman jacket offered a luxe touch
Colour: A softly subdued palette with washed tones of suiting grey, warm taupes, navy and duck-egg blue, tobacco brown, yellow, red and pearl white
Fabric & knit: Cotton, linen, cashmere, corduroy, leather, alligator, checks, semi-sheer shirtings
Print & pattern: Checks
Details & trims: Heirloom buckles
Footwear: K-Swiss collaboration washed black tennis shoe, alligator loafer, handmade leather shoe-boot
Accessories: Striped silk bow tie, silk mosaic ascot, skinny tie, pearl white braces (US: suspenders), skinny belt with antique brass buckle, alligator belt with heirloom buckle, cotton handkerchief, natural white "log" tote, messenger bag
Rag & Bone (mens)
Urban workwear and slouchy layering formed a pleasing mix at Rag & Bone's highly commercial spring/summer showing.
The look: Reproportioned workwear
Silhouette: Oversized and slouchy layering
Key items: Slouchy tunic knits and billowing elongated shirts set the scene, layered with draped pant shapes, easy shirt jackets, cocooning ponchos and boxy woven tees. Denim was configured as trench coats, bib-and-brace dungarees, overscaled boilersuits and slick waxed or denim commuter coats. Tailoring came as 2SBs or as a 3SB shortsuit. Ladder-stitch knits were also key
Colour: Steely blues and tonal greys formed the crux of the palette, accented with vivid poppy red, warm ochre yellow and teal-toned aqua
Fabric & knit: Crisp dark-dye denim, chambray, waxed cottons, nylon, ticking, shirting stripes, patchwork denim and ticking stripes, simple cottons
Print & pattern: Mixed scale paisleys and elaborate tile patterns, tiny micro patterns
Details & trims: Topstitching, fly fronts on coats, fabric blocking
Footwear: Chunky ankle boots with contrast laces in tan, black and stone with red
Accessories: Baseball caps
3.1 Phillip Lim (mens)
Phillip Lim's spring/summer menswear collection was dedicated to urban dandies, with inspiration drawn from the back catalogue of 70s and 80s musical genres.
"The idea was to create this new type of dandy, a gentlemen rocker. I looked at old images of Bryan Ferry and Jacques Dutronc and mixed it up with some early B-boy styles," Lim told WGSN.
The look: Urban rocker meets style-conscious dandy
Silhouette: Neatly styled tailoring and uncomplicated casual layers
Key items: Sleeveless safari jackets and trench coats layered with pin-neat straight-legged cropped pants, leather jeans and transluscent semi-sheer knits. The DB was transformed into a crisp shorts suit teamed with a rock-god sequin tee, with collarless tunic shirts, leather tees and zipped gilets forming the core topweights
Colour: An urban palette of black, white and inky blue offset with the contrast of warm tan browns, stone-tinted neutrals, sand and a clean, fresh sky blue
Fabric & knit: Luxe fabrications are the hallmark of Lim’s menswear – think summer leather and suede, the finest lambskin and semi-sheer knits
Print & pattern: Subtle paisley patterns worked in tonal combinations of warm sand or black
Details & trims: Contrast buttons, collarless details, exposed zips
Footwear: Simple but sartorial-looking ankle boots with minimal detailing in black and stone
Accessories: Foppish silk scarves, pocket handkerchiefs, slim knotted leather belts, canvas document or laptop bags
Duckie Brown
Eclectic layering and offbeat pattern mixes were the focus of Duckie Brown's strongly commercial summer collection, with its pleasing mix-and-match aesthetic.
"The point of this collection was to use as many types of prints, patterns and colours as possible, and with that, create as many pieces as possible that could be mixed and matched together," designer Daniel Silver told WGSN.
Key items: Linen/cotton nailhead dobby doublebreasted suits, classic cotton dress shirts, sporty cotton/cashmere tennis stripe V-neck sweater. Pants came as cropped high-rise tailored shapes, or were casually styled with a rolled hem. Soft unstructured SBs were worked in checks or coated cotton, while a caramel leather lineman jacket offered a luxe touch
Colour: A softly subdued palette with washed tones of suiting grey, warm taupes, navy and duck-egg blue, tobacco brown, yellow, red and pearl white
Fabric & knit: Cotton, linen, cashmere, corduroy, leather, alligator, checks, semi-sheer shirtings
Print & pattern: Checks
Details & trims: Heirloom buckles
Footwear: K-Swiss collaboration washed black tennis shoe, alligator loafer, handmade leather shoe-boot
Accessories: Striped silk bow tie, silk mosaic ascot, skinny tie, pearl white braces (US: suspenders), skinny belt with antique brass buckle, alligator belt with heirloom buckle, cotton handkerchief, natural white "log" tote, messenger bag
Rag & Bone (mens)
Urban workwear and slouchy layering formed a pleasing mix at Rag & Bone's highly commercial spring/summer showing.
The look: Reproportioned workwear
Silhouette: Oversized and slouchy layering
Key items: Slouchy tunic knits and billowing elongated shirts set the scene, layered with draped pant shapes, easy shirt jackets, cocooning ponchos and boxy woven tees. Denim was configured as trench coats, bib-and-brace dungarees, overscaled boilersuits and slick waxed or denim commuter coats. Tailoring came as 2SBs or as a 3SB shortsuit. Ladder-stitch knits were also key
Colour: Steely blues and tonal greys formed the crux of the palette, accented with vivid poppy red, warm ochre yellow and teal-toned aqua
Fabric & knit: Crisp dark-dye denim, chambray, waxed cottons, nylon, ticking, shirting stripes, patchwork denim and ticking stripes, simple cottons
Print & pattern: Mixed scale paisleys and elaborate tile patterns, tiny micro patterns
Details & trims: Topstitching, fly fronts on coats, fabric blocking
Footwear: Chunky ankle boots with contrast laces in tan, black and stone with red
Accessories: Baseball caps
3.1 Phillip Lim (mens)
Phillip Lim's spring/summer menswear collection was dedicated to urban dandies, with inspiration drawn from the back catalogue of 70s and 80s musical genres.
"The idea was to create this new type of dandy, a gentlemen rocker. I looked at old images of Bryan Ferry and Jacques Dutronc and mixed it up with some early B-boy styles," Lim told WGSN.
The look: Urban rocker meets style-conscious dandy
Silhouette: Neatly styled tailoring and uncomplicated casual layers
Key items: Sleeveless safari jackets and trench coats layered with pin-neat straight-legged cropped pants, leather jeans and transluscent semi-sheer knits. The DB was transformed into a crisp shorts suit teamed with a rock-god sequin tee, with collarless tunic shirts, leather tees and zipped gilets forming the core topweights
Colour: An urban palette of black, white and inky blue offset with the contrast of warm tan browns, stone-tinted neutrals, sand and a clean, fresh sky blue
Fabric & knit: Luxe fabrications are the hallmark of Lim’s menswear – think summer leather and suede, the finest lambskin and semi-sheer knits
Print & pattern: Subtle paisley patterns worked in tonal combinations of warm sand or black
Details & trims: Contrast buttons, collarless details, exposed zips
Footwear: Simple but sartorial-looking ankle boots with minimal detailing in black and stone
Accessories: Foppish silk scarves, pocket handkerchiefs, slim knotted leather belts, canvas document or laptop bags
Duckie Brown
Eclectic layering and offbeat pattern mixes were the focus of Duckie Brown's strongly commercial summer collection, with its pleasing mix-and-match aesthetic.
"The point of this collection was to use as many types of prints, patterns and colours as possible, and with that, create as many pieces as possible that could be mixed and matched together," designer Daniel Silver told WGSN.
The look: Mismatched and eclectic proportion play
Silhouette: Elongated layering that combines easy casual separates with oversized tailoring
Key items: The long tunic shirt, oversized tailoring, long vest tops and polo shirts teamed with rolled-leg pants and cropped sarouel leggings. Long tunic shirts layered under boxy Western jackets, fly-front blouson jackets and loosely fitting knee-length shorts
Colour: A madcap medley of urban greys and black, punctuated with flashes of vivid poppy, electric blue, spearmint, salmon and fuchsia. Warm, rusty-brick browns kept the palette grounded
Fabric & knit: Smooth matt cottons, sheers, nylon, marled jersey, washed leather, gingham checks, mixed summer plaids
Print & pattern: Mismatched horizontal and diagonal stripes teamed with the contrast of skin prints, abstracted camouflage patterns and a gradated, engineered monochromatic shirt print
Footwear: Chunky suede moccasins in tan or black suede
Accessories: Knitted beanie hats
Tim Hamilton Redux
A strong streetwear vibe underpinned Tim Hamilton's spring/summer Redux collection, with eminently commercial shapes that tapped into the emerging trend for an elongated silhouette.
"I kept some key shapes and silhouettes from past collections, but I'm making them more progressive with the balance of streetwear. It's like Eastern Europe meets LA," the designer told WGSN.
The look: Urban street
Silhouette: Basic casualwear updated with elongated proportions
Key items: Longline vests and hooded sweats formed the crux of the collection, teamed with cropped joggers or slim-legged high-rise tailored pants. Sporty shorts - some with a laced fly detail - and jersey leggings added to the casual feel, along with colour-blocked polo tops and easy harringtons. Tailoring was sparse and shrunken, offering a contrasting play on proportion
Colour: Basic black, white and grey teamed with cool neutrals, khaki and a flash of red
Fabric & knit: Lots of jersey in its many incarnations, teamed with summer suitings and leather
Details & trims: Raw edges, colour-blocking
Footwear: Sporty boxing boots
The look: Modern vintage
Silhouette: Relaxed separates with structural detail
Silhouette: Elongated layering that combines easy casual separates with oversized tailoring
Key items: The long tunic shirt, oversized tailoring, long vest tops and polo shirts teamed with rolled-leg pants and cropped sarouel leggings. Long tunic shirts layered under boxy Western jackets, fly-front blouson jackets and loosely fitting knee-length shorts
Colour: A madcap medley of urban greys and black, punctuated with flashes of vivid poppy, electric blue, spearmint, salmon and fuchsia. Warm, rusty-brick browns kept the palette grounded
Fabric & knit: Smooth matt cottons, sheers, nylon, marled jersey, washed leather, gingham checks, mixed summer plaids
Print & pattern: Mismatched horizontal and diagonal stripes teamed with the contrast of skin prints, abstracted camouflage patterns and a gradated, engineered monochromatic shirt print
Footwear: Chunky suede moccasins in tan or black suede
Accessories: Knitted beanie hats
Tim Hamilton Redux
A strong streetwear vibe underpinned Tim Hamilton's spring/summer Redux collection, with eminently commercial shapes that tapped into the emerging trend for an elongated silhouette.
"I kept some key shapes and silhouettes from past collections, but I'm making them more progressive with the balance of streetwear. It's like Eastern Europe meets LA," the designer told WGSN.
The look: Urban street
Silhouette: Basic casualwear updated with elongated proportions
Key items: Longline vests and hooded sweats formed the crux of the collection, teamed with cropped joggers or slim-legged high-rise tailored pants. Sporty shorts - some with a laced fly detail - and jersey leggings added to the casual feel, along with colour-blocked polo tops and easy harringtons. Tailoring was sparse and shrunken, offering a contrasting play on proportion
Colour: Basic black, white and grey teamed with cool neutrals, khaki and a flash of red
Fabric & knit: Lots of jersey in its many incarnations, teamed with summer suitings and leather
Details & trims: Raw edges, colour-blocking
Footwear: Sporty boxing boots
John Bartlett
At John Bartlett, signature Zen styling balanced exuberant colour and hard, military details.
"I collect old GQs and was looking at Bruce Weber's late-70s work, and certain models like Jeff Aquilon and Michael Ives," Bartlett told WGSN. The look: Modern vintage
Silhouette: Relaxed separates with structural detail
Key items: Rolled linen pant in faded indigo, linen jacket with utility pockets in faded indigo, linen yoga short with utility pockets, reverse terry short-sleeve sweatshirt, camouflage dress shirt, madras shorts, military blazer in ultra suede
Colour: A palette of browns and neutrals. Bright orange, brown, sandy neutrals, faded indigo, white
Fabric & knit: Ultra-suede, reverse terry, resinated linen, cotton, checks
Print & pattern: "Dog" camouflage, checks
Detail & trims: Utility pockets
Colour: A palette of browns and neutrals. Bright orange, brown, sandy neutrals, faded indigo, white
Fabric & knit: Ultra-suede, reverse terry, resinated linen, cotton, checks
Print & pattern: "Dog" camouflage, checks
Detail & trims: Utility pockets
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