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D&G
From chalet girls to flower girls in just one season, D&G was in full bloom yesterday, with a parade of country-cottage florals and tablecloth checks in an unashamedly girly collection.
The look: Pretty picnic with a touch of gypsy romance
Silhouette: Flirty tiers and wide-cut pants
Key items: Bloomers are fast becoming a collection staple for D&G, and this season they arrived either as a voluminous linen pair or tiny gingham versions peeking out from behind apron skirts. The wide-legged straight-cut gaucho pant was also a key item played out in repeat through various fabrications. Both were teamed with cropped peasant blouses, strappy sun tops with ruffled peplums, or printed button-down shirts. Elsewhere there were floral dungarees, flared jeans, playsuits, trapeze smock dresses pulled off the shoulders, and a denim pinafore layered over a rara-skirted gingham dress. The signature finale was a series of floaty chiffon maxidresses in gypsy tiers, with pussy bows, blouson sleeves or ruffled necklines
Colour: Red, white, denim blue and a raft of delicate pastel shades as grounds to the floral prints Fabric & knit: Linen, chintz cottons and poplins, rustic crochet, dark denim, lace, printed chiffon, gingham and Vichy checks, PVC
Print & pattern: Disney-licensed Snow White placement T-shirt graphics and a host of garden florals - roses, hydrangeas, freesias, violets and mimosas - overblown, ditsy or sprigged, worked on pale grounds such as washed sage green, sky blue or dusky pink
Footwear: Cork wedge platform wellies with ribbed-knit turnover cuff, extreme platforms with woven wedge soles featuring a corsage at the ankle
Accessories: Printed headscarves; oversized canvas shoppers, totes and slouchy shoulder bags; five-pocket concertina-construction Lily Twist handbag in printed florals on white ground
Haute
This season sees a new creative direction for Haute under the steerage of British design duo Marcus Constable and Catherine Brickhill.
The look: "Dress Sculpture" was the collection title
Silhouette: Bursts of sculptural volume, occasionally short and swingy
Key items: Voluminous DB cocoon coats, storm-caped utility jacket and gilet, abbreviated tux jacket with chiffon faux-layer, pencil skirt with sculptural fin at the side, or a short and swingy skirt with large godets; ruched and pleated cotton jersey tops; cocktail dresses including a tailored satin sheath or sweetheart-shaped babydolls; bustier maxidresses and a tailored cigarette-pant jumpsuit with a fin working asymmetrically across the torso and the hip
Colour: Faux nudes, washed saxe blue, navy, silver and grey, gold, black and white Fabric & knit: Unprocessed cotton, silk guaze, striped silks and linen, organza, satin crepe, cotton jersey, metallic taffeta
Print & pattern: Graphic black-and-white Art Deco-influenced linear pattern, an all-over painterly Baroque pattern
Details & trims: Origami-inspired pin-tucking, pleating and ruching; sculptural fins and folds, raw and frayed edges, silver paillettes with short beaded fringe
Footwear: Pointed satin platform Mary Janes with spike heel; multi-strap courts
Accessories: Skinny black leather waist belts
Maurizio Pecorara
A bang-on-trend hit from day two of the Milan shows, Maurizio Pecoraro's collection was inspired by the late Yves Saint Laurent's work from the 1970s. The clothes traversed jet-set poolside chic to colourful Studio 54 disco glam.
"It's 70s bohemia! I went to Paris on holiday and saw the recent YSL retrospective and I was blown away. On my return, my dream was to continue my passion for what I had seen," Maurizio Pecoraro told WGSN.
The look: A 70s hit paradeSilhouette: Midi and full lengths with the occasional super-short surprise
Key items: Midi-length pencil skirts, high-waisted flares or hotpants teamed with halter tops, shells with single-shoulder waterfall ruffle and swingy caped tops. Breezy sheer kaftans, swingy skater dresses, maxi tent dresses and a finale of white shirts and smocks with decorated yokes or bibs
Colours: Creamy latte neutrals, pale gold and white were the cornerstone colours, punctuated with pops of orange, violet, mustard, magenta, cobalt, sunshine and turquoise
Fabric & knit: Macramé, crochet lace, linen, muslin cheesecloth, matelassé, metallic organza, super-fine nylons, soft raffia
Print & pattern: A watery floral degradé, a black-on-neutral mono-colour floral
Details & trims: Hand finishing, raw edges, crystallised all-over sequins, handmade flower appliqués crafted from macramé and decorated with semi-precious stones; large sculpted covered-wire corsages
Footwear: Flat platform sandals
Accessories: Fringed messenger bags, wide-brimmed straw sunhats, leather or suede cummerbunds, multiple beaded bracelets
Prada
Miuccia Prada upped the ante on the second day of the Milan shows, sending out an exuberant exercise in colour and print that took fashion back to basic building blocks in terms of colour and shape.
“It was all about workwear and cotton and very simple. I used all the shapes from the menswear. Everything was in Japanese cotton. But then I wanted to do something like a musical. Something more bold and feminine. Something between minimal and baroque. Something more brave,” Miuccia Prada told WGSN.
The look: Playful and simple with the emphasis on colour and print
Silhouette: Elongated and lean with the simplest shapes reworked through colour and pattern
Key items: Prada played with the simplest shapes - boxy zipped jackets, easy pencil skirts, cropped boxy tops, V-neck uniform-like tops and shift dresses, strappy ruffled-hem sundresses, round-shouldered 2SB tailoring - and reworked them in various permutations of vivid colour, prints and stripes
Colour: Like the silhouettes, colour went back to basics. Think paintbox primary brights, poppy, cobalt and jade, offset with clashing fuchsia and tangerine, a deeper pine green and inky blues, accented with a flash of crisp white and a grounding of sooty black
Fabric & knit: Simple honest cottons and canvas
Print & pattern: A riotous and irreverent mix of simple stripes, with hand-drawn Baroque scrolls and cherub imagery, cartoon monkeys and bananas, along with a Josephine Baker-style dancing-lady motif
Details & trims: Flounced hemlines on simple shift shapes, mini ruffles at necklines, pop-pom trimmed hemlines
Footwear: Deep platforms and wedged heels defined the season’s footwear, worked in stripes and chequerboard patterns with laced uppers or simple ankle straps. Meanwhile, 20s-style T-bars and Mary Janes came in striped basketweaves with round buckles
Accessories: Fox-fur stoles were brightly coloured, and bags were worked in the palette of vibrant matching brights or simple stripes, with chunky double-handle shapes, envelope-style shoulderbags and smaller purse effects. Eyewear took up the Baroque theme with curlicue frames, and hats appeared as huge striped sombreros.
Fendi
A breezy summery look from Karl Lagerfeld, who addressed the season’s trend for all things 70s with his romantically inspired showing full of easy smocks, drawstrings and flowing sleeves.
The look: 70s romance
Silhouette: Soft and blousy
Key items: Smock shapes proliferated from easy drawstring-waist dresses to off-the-shoulder bloused tops, often teamed with a full mid-calf skirt or softly cut wide pants. Caped sleeves added volume, and there was a play on hemlines with high-low effects and gentle bubble hems. Tailoring came as a short-sleeved pantsuit, and shirtdresses featured wide square-cut sleeves and longer-length fluted skirts
Colour: Crisp white married with a palette of cool blues that ran the gamut from cornflower through ultramarine and marine to a range of pretty aquas. At the opposite end of the spectrum, there were warm sunny apricots and peachy oranges with a flash of red and violet
Fabric & knit: Cottons, waxed finishes, silk, grid checks, hopsack weaves
Print & pattern: An engineered scorched-paper print, pressed flower-inspired floral patterns
Details & trims: Drawstring and elastic-cased details
Footwear: Block-heeled ankle straps, chunky wedged platforms
Accessories: Bi-colour bags in grained and smooth leathers. Leather belts, striped bags, alligator-trimmed bags, fur stoles, scarves decorated with miniscule fur pom-poms
Luisa Beccaria
There may have been nothing directionally new, but it was a deliciously feminine and highly commercial collection from Luisa Beccaria, full of the kind of pretty dresses, skirts and tops that uptown girls will love to wear.
The look: Feminine and romantic
Silhouette: Soft and fragile, waisted or softly draped
Key items: Soft blouses and skirts were key components of Beccaria’s fragile feminine looks, with fluttering fluted sleeves and smock shapes teamed with delicate A-line or easy pencil skirts. Dresses came as wrap shirtwaisters and pretty sundresses, or for evening, floaty draped chiffon columnar shapes. Pleat shorts and crochet knit pants-and-cardie combo added a sporty twist while still retaining the collection’s overtly feminine edge
Colour: The palette mirrored the romantic mood, with shades of white layered with pale poudré pink, rose, raspberry and peach, palest primrose and cappuccino
Fabric & knit: Fabrics were delicate and fragile, reiterating the collection’s feminine mood, with organzas, silk chiffons, eyelets, cloqué, weightless Chantilly lace, cottons and linen, and fine-gauge knits
Print & pattern: Micro florals in shades of washed red, blue and green worked in pretty stripes on a soft white ground; mixed florals on pink grounds and a splashy poppy print
Details & trims: Self-coloured embroidery on organza used as inserts, cut-work hems, pintucks, knotted details on caped sleeves, multiple ruffles
Footwear: Stain wedged espadrilles, T-bars
Accessories: Suede belts with corsage trims, wide corset belts, canvas poppy-print bag
Sportmax
A youthfully inspired collection from Sportmax, who bucked the trend for romantic and flowing 70s looks in favour of something sharper and more graphic, with crisp swingy 60s shapes and a clean-cut colour palette.
The look: Swinging 60s
Silhouette: Short and sharp with simple trapeze lines
Key items: The trench manifested itself as a swingy crisp white outerwear piece, as well as appearing as a sleeveless dress and a bustier over a simple white sleeveless shirt, while a trapeze-line PVC mac was another stand-out coat shape. Elsewhere it was all about youthful babydoll dresses - best in dark-washed denim - culottes and belted jackets, tunics, fluid pants and A-line shift dresses
Colour: White and inky blue accented with poppy red, strawberry, hot pink and orange, a flash of chrome yellow and black
Fabric & knit: Simple crisp cottons, denim, broderie and eyelet in varying patterns, wet-look patent, suede and organza, paillettes
Print & pattern: Stripes, a silhouette butterfly print, a collaged check and stripe pattern in satin weave sheers
Details & trims: Metallic applied butterflies, guipure lace applied butterflies, snaps and zips
Footwear: Strappy courts with ankle ties
Accessories: Boxy bags on long leather straps, sporty belts
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