Live From... New York Fashion Week - Day 2

Lacoste

 

For his final collection for Lacoste, Christophe Lemaire went back to the house's DNA in his sportswear-inspired collection with more than a touch of 80s overtones.
The look: 80s sportswear 
Silhouette: Minimal and graphic contrasted with slouchy and oversized  
Key items: Oversized duster coats and woven tracksuits contrasted with the sharp, angular lines of thigh-high miniskirts, T-shaped tops and dresses in wovens, mesh and knits, and the house’s iconic polo shirts, often reworked as dresses. Bandeau bikinis were layered under sports mesh tees 
Colour: Bold, graphic blocks of colour worked throuh a palette of black and white, chrome yellow, shades of marigold and tan, cappuccino browns with sandy neutrals, hot pink and red 
Fabric & knit: Lemaire opted for comfort, with jerseys, sports mesh, terry and velour combined with compact cottons and ultra-suede 
Print & pattern: Graphic stripes 
Details & trims: V-shaped inserts on T-shirt dresses, snap closures, drawstrings, topstitching 
Footwear: Open ankle-strap sandals; flat sports shoes in white 
Accessories: Sporty visors, slouchy hobos in leather-trimmed terry, panamas, terry wristbands, plaited leather belts, leather-trimmed rope belts

Alexander Wang

 

Alexander Wang took his tough-girl chic in a new direction for spring, with a nearly all-white collection of asymmetrical painter smocks, carpenter jackets and copper-patched dresses. The clean palette refreshed more signature moves such as sleeveless, strappy and off-shoulder shapes.
The look: Light utility
Silhouette: Fluid loose-cut shapes and midi-lengths
Key items: Satin-faced zip bomber jacket; white denim sleeveless vest with optic embroidery and copper shoulder patches; crinkle texture belted "Judo" vest; panelled long vest dress with foiled lapel; crumpled satin sleeveless tank dress with draped back and foiled detail; off-shoulder fishnet sweater with foiled belt detail; sheer "aluminum"-tint poncho; doodle-print silk T-shirt dress; overlong short with carpenter pockets; knitted crepe legging; knitted rubber raffia jacket; sleeveless trench with extended wing flaps
Colour: White was the bold new anchor shade for Wang, worked alongside mint green, cosmetique nude, irridescent silver and foil metallics
Fabric & knit: Cotton, silk, satin, washed cotton gauze, silk crepe, knitted crepe, cotton voile, organza, terry cloth, foiled Tyvek, chiffon, cotton twill, rubber raffia, washed knit linen, fishnet, silk viscose, laddered knit stitches, slubby yarns 
Print & pattern: Scribble print in washed Crayola colour on pale grounds
Details & trims: Parachute and criss-cross straps, short zips, metallic foil patches,
Footwear: Lace-up sandal boots in nubuck, closed-toe lace-up boots with covered platform, sandals with knotted straps - all in ash grey, tan or white
Accessories: Encased bike-chain necklace; gold and bronze rings by Michael Anastassiades; mini bean bag

Ohne Titel

 

The linear, colour-blocked shapes created by woodcut artist Utagawa Kuniyoshi inspired Ohne Titel's spring collection, defined by now-signature contour seaming and sporty shots of colour. 

The look: Techno soft
Silhouette: Scuba-slim tops over relaxed tapered trousers
Key items: Black neoprene bodysuits and cropped zip-through tanks used as underlayers, drop-waisted tennis dresses with pleated skirts and contour seaming, pleat-front tapered peg pants or panelled leggings, white sleeveless drape jacket, cropped zip-up cardigans
Colour: A minimal scheme made up of navy, black, white and royal blue, with the occasional flash of red or yellow
Fabric & knit: Neoprene, silk, cotton, mid-gauge knits, pleated knits
Print & pattern: Sporty colour-blocking created chevrons and stripes
Details & trims: Contrast pocket flaps with zippers, ribbonned zipper pulls 
Footwear: Colour-blocked sandal boots cut in two lengths - either above or on the ankle, minimal-strap platform sandals
Accessories: Lucite and cord necklaces, which were a collaboration with artist Tauba Auerbach, wrist cuffs and a drawstring pochette with extra long cords - part of a new handbag line launched this season 

Edun

 

Bono and Ali Hewson’s fashion brand, whose goal is to promote business in Africa, took a leap forward for spring under the newly appointed creative dirction of Sharon Wauchob. The Irish-born designer brought sophistication to the brand by spinning African inspiration into tailored, modern shapes.
"I was trying to focus on being eco and being fresh, and also not being something else," Wauchob told WGSN.
The look: Earthy, desert modern with hints of deconstruction
Silhouette: Narrow and cropped
Key items: For women, white poplin shirtdress with knotted-fringe sleeve detail; wrap skirt with wood beading; hammered silk habotai dress with peaking poplin shirt detail in back; asymmetrical cropped jacket; cotton jersey wrap halter; low-neckline long dress with small brass hoop detail; cropped kick-flare trouser; distressed/slit cotton sweater; leather shirtdress, sand poncho. For men, embroidered chambray shirt; braided linen scarf; washed black tapered linen/cotton trouser; suede knit vest; distressed/slit cotton shirt; silk pleated trouser; openwork crochet cardigan
Colour: Parachute white, indigo, ash, khaki, spice, army green, black, mud brown
Fabric & knit: Organic cotton, poplin, silk, hammered silk, linen, chambray, indigo denim, silk/wool, linen/Tencel, perforated leather
Print & pattern: Geo animal print, collage print, mix print
Details & trims: Brass hoop detail, wood beading, perforation, distress detail
Footwear: For women, rope-tied peep-toe wooden platform-wedges with polished leather vamp; low-cut slingbacks with extreme platform-wedge. For men, denim blue or black leather sneakers
Accessories: For women, short beaded necklaces and chunky bangles. For men, beaded multi-strap leather belt and bracelets; knotted scarves 

Prabal Gurung
Young designer Prabal Gurung stepped up a notch for spring, moving on his sculptural signature with shapely beading and fringe details, and adding more, sumptuous daywear.
The look: Shape shifting
Silhouette: Columnar with an emphasis on a new midi-length
Key items: Form-fitting sheath dresses cut just below the knee; washed-silk faille coat with cargo pockets and translucent inserts; tiered-pleat jersey dress with translucent panels; trench coat with curved inserts and bandage-strapping to back, stretch scuba curved-seam cropped pant; silk/viscose racerback tank; silk-duchesse skirt with iridescent latex fringe; ivory/black washed-silk faille tuxedo jacket; stretch scuba dress with sculptural play and asymmetrical hem; side-draped halter blouse; bustier dress with sculpted tech mesh; racerback gown with sheer contour inserts
Colour: An opening palette of poppy red, saffron and turquoise gave way to a mid-section of cool pales including white, ivory, pale silver, nude and washed coral. Black punctuated the collcetion
Fabric & knit: Cashmere, silk faille, linen/viscose jersey, stretch neoprene, silk duchesse, technical mesh, silk crepe, chiffon, tulle
Print & pattern: Sporty colour-blocking; a placement floral with spidery tendrils in washed coral on a white ground
Details & trims: Shredded rubberised fil coupé, latex fringe, plastic paillettes and crystals, sculptural appliqué, chiffon inserts
Footwear: Black, white, nude and orange multi-strap sandals
Accessories: Colour-coordinated skinny waist belts 

Philosophy di Alberta Ferretti 
A vibrant and eclectic collection from Philosophy with the emphasis on vivid colour and pattern mixes. 
The look: Retro oriental resort 

Silhouette: Short, sharp and clean, with resort-style separates and updated cheongsam-inspired shapes  
Key items: Classic cheongsam styling on coloured flirty dresses and easy shirt-jacket shapes, combined with soft cropped pants to complete the oriental mood. Halterneck tops, playsuits and dresses, flirty tap-shorts and cropped tops had a high-summer feel, while a single classically styled trenchcoat offered a change of pace 
Colour: A rainbow of vivid brights gave the collection an uplifting feel, with vivid mandarin, daffodil yellow, ultramarine blues, poppy and purple all offset with a single shot of sand-coloured neutral  
Fabric & knit: Satin,  silks, jersey and cotton 
Print & pattern: A mad-cap mix of conrasting prints from traditional oriental all-overs to a kitsch face print, all mixed together in clashing combinations 
Details & trims: Oriental-inpired details included contrast piping, Chinese frogging and coordinating embroidery placements 
Footwear: High platform sandals in print or vivid satin. Printed knee-length boots 
Accessories: Satin rouleau belts, coolie hats, printed bags


Z Spoke by Zac Posen
With the runway debut of his diffusion line, Zac Posen tapped into key spring trends: suiting with a 70s flare, boudoir elements and a true mix of colour and print.
The look: Sassy, city-girl separates
Silhouette: Fitted blazers, natural-waist dresses and slim trousers with a subtle flare 
Key items: Red double-knit jersey coat with black leather band, high-waist cropped cotton pant, printed silk fitted blazer, denim pant suit, crochet "lingerie" dress with clipped flounce, yellow plaid romper with broderie anglaise trim, swing dress with bra-like overlay 
Colour: Poppy red, Swedish blue, club green, flan yellow, indigo, black 
Fabric & knit: Double- knit jersey, silk, denim, cotton, broderie anglaise, stretch crepe, corded voile, corded jacquard, jersey 
Print & pattern: Light plaid, animal print, pineapple print, fruit- cocktail print, flocked grape print, strawberry print, cherry print, dancing ladies print. Crochet pattern 
Details & trims: Contrast "tuxedo" stripe, ruffles 
Footwear: From a collaboration with Steve Madden, a platform sandal in foil green or black, a vintage platform pump with flat front bow and contrast heel, and an open-toe lace-up heel bootie 
Accessories: Cat-eye sunglasses, geometric necklaces, geometric bag shapes with hard handles  

Jill Stuart

Jill Stuart was in feminine mode for spring/summer, with an overtly pretty collection compounded with delicate fabrics and embroideries.
"I wanted to create the quintessential Jill Stuart girl, with beautiful embellishments, embroideries and floral prints, especially the new-length skirt with floral embroidery," Stuart told WGSN. 
The look: Romantically feminine 
Silhouette: Waisted silhouettes balanced by new longer skirt lengths  
Key items: The dress was a strong feature of this collection, coming with waist emphasis and soft full skirts, or as a ruffle-trimmed smock. Shorts were wide-cut and exaggerated, teamed with feminine blouses and shell tops, while skirts were either thigh-high or cut to below the knee. Tailored pants suits and boxy cardigan- jackets offered a grounding contrast to the overtly feminine mood 
Colour: A restrained palette of black and white, offset with sandy neutrals and urban grey  
Fabric & knit: Summer suede, satin, rustc linen, burn-outs, organza floral appliqués, sheened knits, silk and sheers, crystalline embroideries  
Print & pattern: A fairytale silhouette print used as an engineered border placement; stripes  
Details & trims: Pierrot ruffles, contrast trims or colour-blocking, bow-tied necks on blouses 
Footwear: Black patent ankle-strap high-cut shoes with a contrast toe; high patent boots  

Altuzarra  
Complicated asymmetry and body-con silhouettes bucked the season’s emerging trend for low-key sportswear at Altuzarra.
The look: Hard-edged 
Silhouette: Asymmetric body-con 
Key items: Thigh-high slashed skirts and body-con dresses formed the core of this collection, softened with the contrast of fluid wide-cut pant shapes. Jackets and coats were cut close to the body, with complicated strap or asymmetric closure details. Appliquéd details and cone-shaped bra panels took the look to the max, and for evening there were long, asymmetric, slashed jersey dresses  
Colour: The palette reiterated the graphic mood, with black, white and inky blues accented with ice blue, pale lemon and flashes of orange and lime for accessories 
Fabric & knit: High-sheen satin contrasted with body-con jersey and knit, with metallic leather and a medley of reptile skins  
Print & pattern: Skin patterns  
Details & trims: Tricksy straps and cut-outs, fabric blocking and graphic appliqués 
Footwear: White gladiator sandal boots 
Accessories: Narrow rouleau belts and bangles in lime, chrome yellow and orange

Robert Geller
Strong, youthfully commercial shapes and a relaxed mood pervaded Robert Geller's spring/summer showing.
"I drew inspiration from late-60s Berlin and that youth generation. They wanted to leave the past behind them and create something beautiful of their own, and I was really inspired by that kind of energy," the designer told WGSN.
The look: Mismatched layering
Silhouette: Relaxed and easy with soft tailoring and multi-layered separates
Key items: Easy-cut wide shorts were teamed with layered, unstructured jackets and soft summer raincoats, with marled tees and shadow-plaid shirts. Casually styled Harringtons and washed leather jackets offered a play on proportion, while an easy boiler suit brought a utility feel into play. Pant shapes were relaxed and cropped or cut to below the knee from a full high rise, teamed with chunky knit cardigans or a boxy Western jacket
Colour: A rich medley of intense brick and terracotta shades, teamed with khaki, urban greys and warm manilla, with soft rose as a highlight
Fabric & knit: Crumpled and washed finishes added to the relaxed mood, with denim in several washes and weights teamed with satinised finishes, leather, ombred stripes, marled jersey and shadow plaids
Details & trims: Utility zips
Footwear: Clasic monk-strap shoes in black leather or pale sand-coloured suede
Accessories: Tasseled cord necklaces, bow-tied sash belts, double-knot leather belts, wide scarves, leather arm and leg-bands, low-crown trilbies with a wider brim shape

Posted in: Alexander Wang,Altuzarra,Edun,Jill Stuart,Lacoste,Ohne Titel,Philosophy di Alberta Ferretti,Prabal Gurung,Robert Geller,S/S 11,Spring/Summer,womenswear,Z Spoke by Zac Posen