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Bottega Veneta
The seemingly casual effortlessness at Bottega Veneta yesterday wasdevoid of theatrics and themes. Instead Tomas Maier concentrated on thecomfort and desirability of relaxed fits and sensuous materials.
"Iwas interested in very casual shapes that take on a sensuous feelingand movement - a simple T-shirt dress that, as a woman walks, if thematerial is right, you can see the body," Maier told WGSN. "I am notinto the obvious or the evident. The unstructured tailoring wasinspired by cardigans - classic shapes but in the wrong materials andtaking the inside out."
The look: Relaxed luxury
Silhouette: Soft and unstructured, casually sporty
Key items:Unstructured pant- or shorts-suits with raw-edged inside-out seamingand cutaway elbows; casual tapered pants with buckle-strapped ankles;racer-back trapeze and swing dresses - some with handkerchief hems,others with draped swags adding volume at the back; sporty loose-fittab-shouldered dress with mesh torso panel; alligator-leathersleeveless jacket worn with washed leather pants; a simple ribbed-knitvest worn with a belted paper-bag-waist linen maxiskirt; knittedharem-pant jumpsuit; roomy pleat-front shorts; breezy midi-length silkdresses; soft dirndls decorated with naïve appliqués
Colours:Opening with the darker shades of cement and slate grey and an intenseblue-black, the palette gradually lightened, with airy shades of milkwhite, cream, neutral parchment and a single shot of ice blue
Fabric & knit: Silk, linen, papery cottons, washed and crumpled leathers, perforated piqué or suede, jersey and viscose, chainmail
Details & trims:Short single feathers in placement formations; singularly placedspindly vulture feathers creating a delicate fringe; slashedcross-hatching pattern or part-punched circles; sporty all-overperforations; leather border hems; mesh panels and inserts; naïveappliqués; crinkled finishes; baggy patch pockets on dresses
Footwear: Flat two-strap leather sandals with toe loop and connecting metal ring; suede peep-toe booties
Accessories:Filigree jewellery and cameos hand-carved in lava stone and set inblackened sterling silver, made by craftsmen in Naples. Understatedhandbags in leather, exotic skins or canvas for cross-body styles;puffy hobos and the signature woven Cabat
"Iwas interested in very casual shapes that take on a sensuous feelingand movement - a simple T-shirt dress that, as a woman walks, if thematerial is right, you can see the body," Maier told WGSN. "I am notinto the obvious or the evident. The unstructured tailoring wasinspired by cardigans - classic shapes but in the wrong materials andtaking the inside out."
The look: Relaxed luxury
Silhouette: Soft and unstructured, casually sporty
Key items:Unstructured pant- or shorts-suits with raw-edged inside-out seamingand cutaway elbows; casual tapered pants with buckle-strapped ankles;racer-back trapeze and swing dresses - some with handkerchief hems,others with draped swags adding volume at the back; sporty loose-fittab-shouldered dress with mesh torso panel; alligator-leathersleeveless jacket worn with washed leather pants; a simple ribbed-knitvest worn with a belted paper-bag-waist linen maxiskirt; knittedharem-pant jumpsuit; roomy pleat-front shorts; breezy midi-length silkdresses; soft dirndls decorated with naïve appliqués
Colours:Opening with the darker shades of cement and slate grey and an intenseblue-black, the palette gradually lightened, with airy shades of milkwhite, cream, neutral parchment and a single shot of ice blue
Fabric & knit: Silk, linen, papery cottons, washed and crumpled leathers, perforated piqué or suede, jersey and viscose, chainmail
Details & trims:Short single feathers in placement formations; singularly placedspindly vulture feathers creating a delicate fringe; slashedcross-hatching pattern or part-punched circles; sporty all-overperforations; leather border hems; mesh panels and inserts; naïveappliqués; crinkled finishes; baggy patch pockets on dresses
Footwear: Flat two-strap leather sandals with toe loop and connecting metal ring; suede peep-toe booties
Accessories:Filigree jewellery and cameos hand-carved in lava stone and set inblackened sterling silver, made by craftsmen in Naples. Understatedhandbags in leather, exotic skins or canvas for cross-body styles;puffy hobos and the signature woven Cabat
Emporio Armani
For his Emporio line, Giorgio Armani ticked off several of theseason's key looks - layered lengths, swinging A-line shapes andconceal-and-reveal sheers, in an extensive collection stamped with thedesigner's signature ladylike elegance and sporty nuances.
The look: Young sophisticate
Silhouette: Layered columns and A-line flares
Key items:Swingy long-line bandeau tops or abbreviated jackets with long-linetunics, layered over ruched tulle pencil skirts; tiered babydoll tops;flared satin evening coats or mini-crini skirts layered with ruchedtulle leggings; slim-fitting tailored shorts paired with flirty ruffledtops; tapered pant shapes with vertical ruffled fins or drawstringwaistbands; sporty blouson shirts; cowl-draped fine-knit jersey tops;tailored jackets with curved closures for day, or sharp-shouldered tuxderivatives for party
Colours: Aqua, mint and ice-blue pales with a raft of mineral greys and sandy beige; vivid geranium pink
Fabric & knit:Mesh knits, smooth duchesse satins, silk, blistered and crinkledorganza, stretch tulle, voile, rubberised raffia, lace with a lurexfinish
Print & pattern: Palm-leaf motif in two-tone metallic grey and accent colour - either green, fuchsia or cobalt
Details & trims: Thermo-welded leather tiles on organza base, ruched tulle, sheer ruffled peplums on jackets
Footwear: Lace-up canvas booties with nappa piping; wood-effect platform wedges with canvas wrap detail
Accessories:Square Perspex bangles, rigid-handled bags, small patent bags,across-body hard-box evening bags, wide belts, necklaces in a varietyof lengths in plaited twine with wood and facet-cut horn-effect beads
The look: Young sophisticate
Silhouette: Layered columns and A-line flares
Key items:Swingy long-line bandeau tops or abbreviated jackets with long-linetunics, layered over ruched tulle pencil skirts; tiered babydoll tops;flared satin evening coats or mini-crini skirts layered with ruchedtulle leggings; slim-fitting tailored shorts paired with flirty ruffledtops; tapered pant shapes with vertical ruffled fins or drawstringwaistbands; sporty blouson shirts; cowl-draped fine-knit jersey tops;tailored jackets with curved closures for day, or sharp-shouldered tuxderivatives for party
Colours: Aqua, mint and ice-blue pales with a raft of mineral greys and sandy beige; vivid geranium pink
Fabric & knit:Mesh knits, smooth duchesse satins, silk, blistered and crinkledorganza, stretch tulle, voile, rubberised raffia, lace with a lurexfinish
Print & pattern: Palm-leaf motif in two-tone metallic grey and accent colour - either green, fuchsia or cobalt
Details & trims: Thermo-welded leather tiles on organza base, ruched tulle, sheer ruffled peplums on jackets
Footwear: Lace-up canvas booties with nappa piping; wood-effect platform wedges with canvas wrap detail
Accessories:Square Perspex bangles, rigid-handled bags, small patent bags,across-body hard-box evening bags, wide belts, necklaces in a varietyof lengths in plaited twine with wood and facet-cut horn-effect beads
Emilio Pucci
Peter Dundas pulled off a double-headed coup with his latestspring/summer showing, managing to perfectly encapsulate the house'sglamorous bohemian image, while working next summer's 70s trend to themax.
The look: 70s bohemian
Silhouette: Long, flowing and sexy
Key items:Low-cut flared pants came with lacing and fringed details, teamed withlaced tie-dye tees and shrunken blazers or a fringed, sinuously workedsuede trench. Dress silhouettes veered from high-low-hemmed ruffledmaxis to slinky jersey worked in revamped archive prints withslashed-to-the-thigh hems and sexy laced backs. Elsewhere there wereshort kaftans, crochet sheaths and barely there swimwear
Colour:A palette of dazzling Mediterranean azure blues, teamed with crispwhite and warm spice tones. Think turmeric yellows and nutmeg orcinnamon browns with a flash of watermelon and a finale of black andwhite
Fabric & knit: Silk chiffons and organzas,cut-work silks, broderie, lace and cotton crochet, worked with slinkypython, summer suede, leather and printed silk jersey
Print & pattern:Mediterranean tile motifs worked into scrolling patterns played out inblue and white sat alongside reworked house archive prints on jerseygrounds, with a dash of hippy-de-luxe tie-dye thrown in
Details & trims:A medley of ruffles, mirrored Indian embroideries, pom-pom trims,guipure lace placements, rouleau lacing and whip-stitching, sexypeek-a-boo cutouts on jersey
Footwear: Footwear veeredfrom tan laced over-the-knee sandal boots to high wrapped-strap sandalsin tan leather or python with D-ring trims and needle-thin gold heels
Accessories:Wide-brimmed 70s hats and wide head-wrap scarves; long tooled leathershoulder bags with tassel trims, or traditional Greek woven bags;scarves trimmed with mirror embroidery and pom-poms; widegrommet-trimmed belts; and jewelled crosses
The look: 70s bohemian
Silhouette: Long, flowing and sexy
Key items:Low-cut flared pants came with lacing and fringed details, teamed withlaced tie-dye tees and shrunken blazers or a fringed, sinuously workedsuede trench. Dress silhouettes veered from high-low-hemmed ruffledmaxis to slinky jersey worked in revamped archive prints withslashed-to-the-thigh hems and sexy laced backs. Elsewhere there wereshort kaftans, crochet sheaths and barely there swimwear
Colour:A palette of dazzling Mediterranean azure blues, teamed with crispwhite and warm spice tones. Think turmeric yellows and nutmeg orcinnamon browns with a flash of watermelon and a finale of black andwhite
Fabric & knit: Silk chiffons and organzas,cut-work silks, broderie, lace and cotton crochet, worked with slinkypython, summer suede, leather and printed silk jersey
Print & pattern:Mediterranean tile motifs worked into scrolling patterns played out inblue and white sat alongside reworked house archive prints on jerseygrounds, with a dash of hippy-de-luxe tie-dye thrown in
Details & trims:A medley of ruffles, mirrored Indian embroideries, pom-pom trims,guipure lace placements, rouleau lacing and whip-stitching, sexypeek-a-boo cutouts on jersey
Footwear: Footwear veeredfrom tan laced over-the-knee sandal boots to high wrapped-strap sandalsin tan leather or python with D-ring trims and needle-thin gold heels
Accessories:Wide-brimmed 70s hats and wide head-wrap scarves; long tooled leathershoulder bags with tassel trims, or traditional Greek woven bags;scarves trimmed with mirror embroidery and pom-poms; widegrommet-trimmed belts; and jewelled crosses
Jil Sander
Inspired by the maximalism of couture, Raf Simons played withoverblown shapes and high-octane colour, while retaining the Jil Sanderminimalism through played-down detailing and bold graphic stripes.
The look: Playful proportions
Silhouette: Oversized with controlled volume, long lengths and ovoid shapes
Key items:Simple black or white crew-neck tees worn with ovoid maxiskirts puffedat the waist, or super-wide pants, some with a short ruffled peplum.Maxi tent dresses; wide pleat-front pants teamed with sheer stripedtanks (US: vests); slim and straight-cut tailored pants teamed withsimple button-through collared shirts; oversized boyfriend blazers andlightweight commuter coats; sporty outerwear pieces such as hoodedwindcheaters and parkas; swing jackets with drawcord hems; a cocktaildress with wrapped tulip-shaped skirt and bow bustle
Colours:Hyperreal fluoros paired saturated brights - Kelly green, Yves Kleinblue, violet, magenta, fire-engine red and navy with neon pink, safetyorange and high-vis yellow, with graphic black and white
Fabric & knit: Cotton-silk blends with a host of techno fabrics including taffeta, nylon and a papery gabardine
Print & pattern: Wide block stripes, black-and-white jailhouse stripes, magnified placement floral, digital photoreal floral collage
Details & trims:Overscaled, floppy paper-bag waists, ruffled contrast-coloured peplums,wide single-feature pleats at the back on coats and jackets, fluorotapes
Footwear: Courts with cutaway sides, and platform slingbacks with fluorescent glossed soles
Accessories: Mirrored bug-eye sunglasses with double fluoro-wire frames; PVC totes and shoppers
The look: Playful proportions
Silhouette: Oversized with controlled volume, long lengths and ovoid shapes
Key items:Simple black or white crew-neck tees worn with ovoid maxiskirts puffedat the waist, or super-wide pants, some with a short ruffled peplum.Maxi tent dresses; wide pleat-front pants teamed with sheer stripedtanks (US: vests); slim and straight-cut tailored pants teamed withsimple button-through collared shirts; oversized boyfriend blazers andlightweight commuter coats; sporty outerwear pieces such as hoodedwindcheaters and parkas; swing jackets with drawcord hems; a cocktaildress with wrapped tulip-shaped skirt and bow bustle
Colours:Hyperreal fluoros paired saturated brights - Kelly green, Yves Kleinblue, violet, magenta, fire-engine red and navy with neon pink, safetyorange and high-vis yellow, with graphic black and white
Fabric & knit: Cotton-silk blends with a host of techno fabrics including taffeta, nylon and a papery gabardine
Print & pattern: Wide block stripes, black-and-white jailhouse stripes, magnified placement floral, digital photoreal floral collage
Details & trims:Overscaled, floppy paper-bag waists, ruffled contrast-coloured peplums,wide single-feature pleats at the back on coats and jackets, fluorotapes
Footwear: Courts with cutaway sides, and platform slingbacks with fluorescent glossed soles
Accessories: Mirrored bug-eye sunglasses with double fluoro-wire frames; PVC totes and shoppers
MaxMara
Clean lines, minimal detailing and a play on colour were thehallmarks of MaxMara's spring/summer showing, where a sportswearaesthetic was given a feminine twist from weightless fabrication.
The look: Modern minimalism
Silhouette: Lean and body-con
Key items:Close-fitting cropped kick-flare pants came teamed with second-skincolour-blocked or backless jersey tops, that same minimal look runningthrough to narrow cycle shorts, simple pencil skirts and bandeau tops.Trench coats and cropped trench jackets provided the outerwear options,while soft flowing slashed-side palazzos and maxiskirts were offsetwith pencil-narrow DB blazers or a cropped cable-knit sweater
Colour:A fresh clean palette of warm sand neutrals offset with offbeatbrights, chrome yellow, mandarin, flame and violet, often worked intonal mixes. White and black added to the clean-cut look
Fabric & knit: Summer suede and leather, crepe de chine, second-skin jersey, organza, satin
Print & pattern: Simple stripes and spots
Details & trims: Fly-front detailing, backless and cut-out details on jersey, colour-blocking
Footwear: Simple Mary-Jane high-heeled courts in satin, suede and metallics
Accessories: Narrow coloured belts, double-handled zipped bags
The look: Modern minimalism
Silhouette: Lean and body-con
Key items:Close-fitting cropped kick-flare pants came teamed with second-skincolour-blocked or backless jersey tops, that same minimal look runningthrough to narrow cycle shorts, simple pencil skirts and bandeau tops.Trench coats and cropped trench jackets provided the outerwear options,while soft flowing slashed-side palazzos and maxiskirts were offsetwith pencil-narrow DB blazers or a cropped cable-knit sweater
Colour:A fresh clean palette of warm sand neutrals offset with offbeatbrights, chrome yellow, mandarin, flame and violet, often worked intonal mixes. White and black added to the clean-cut look
Fabric & knit: Summer suede and leather, crepe de chine, second-skin jersey, organza, satin
Print & pattern: Simple stripes and spots
Details & trims: Fly-front detailing, backless and cut-out details on jersey, colour-blocking
Footwear: Simple Mary-Jane high-heeled courts in satin, suede and metallics
Accessories: Narrow coloured belts, double-handled zipped bags
Just Cavalli
Next summer's 70s hippy vibe provides the perfect playground forCavalli's signature brand of sexy, throw-it-all-on bohemian aesthetics,with a medley of print, pattern and decorative denim guaranteed toappeal to his Mediterranean jet-set fan base.
The look: 70s hippy-de-luxe meets St-Tropez
Silhouette: Long pile-it-on-layers
Key items:Cavalli played with the trend for denim-on-denim with his chambrayshirts, embellished denim vests and jeans, long pieced-denim skirts,and pearl-, lace- or flower-encrusted flared jeans. There was a play onprint mixing too, with his bias-panelled skirts, ruffled smocks andfloaty maxidresses, with some skin-printed pencil skirts and Victorianlace-trimmed blouses thrown into the mix
Colour: A full-onpalette that spanned washed blues through palm greens, yellows, orangeand brown, with sandy neutrals and a dash of purple and red
Fabric & knit:Denim in every weight and wash; embellished denim, from pearl-encrustedto lace-trimmed and flocked or stencilled patterns. Chambray,chamois-like suedes, metallic leathers, sheers and lace
Print & pattern:The designer's penchant for skin prints was firmly addressed withleopard, python and zebra patterns, clashing with multicoloured mixedflorals and a leafy palm print
Details & trims: Appliqués and beading, embroidery and lacing
Footwear: Patterned stiletto courts
Accessories: Wide-brimmed 70s hats, belts, and pendants trimmed with mineral gemstones such as onyx, long fringed suede satchels
The look: 70s hippy-de-luxe meets St-Tropez
Silhouette: Long pile-it-on-layers
Key items:Cavalli played with the trend for denim-on-denim with his chambrayshirts, embellished denim vests and jeans, long pieced-denim skirts,and pearl-, lace- or flower-encrusted flared jeans. There was a play onprint mixing too, with his bias-panelled skirts, ruffled smocks andfloaty maxidresses, with some skin-printed pencil skirts and Victorianlace-trimmed blouses thrown into the mix
Colour: A full-onpalette that spanned washed blues through palm greens, yellows, orangeand brown, with sandy neutrals and a dash of purple and red
Fabric & knit:Denim in every weight and wash; embellished denim, from pearl-encrustedto lace-trimmed and flocked or stencilled patterns. Chambray,chamois-like suedes, metallic leathers, sheers and lace
Print & pattern:The designer's penchant for skin prints was firmly addressed withleopard, python and zebra patterns, clashing with multicoloured mixedflorals and a leafy palm print
Details & trims: Appliqués and beading, embroidery and lacing
Footwear: Patterned stiletto courts
Accessories: Wide-brimmed 70s hats, belts, and pendants trimmed with mineral gemstones such as onyx, long fringed suede satchels
Moschino Cheap & Chic
Abandoning the traditional catwalk, Rossella Jardini turned herMoschino Cheap & Chic show into a cocktail party-come-stageperformance, as her girlish models skipped about the platform, blowingkisses to the crowd and swishing their skirts for the photographers.
The look: Joie de vivre!
Silhouette: Swishy midi-lengths, boxy tops
Key items:Full midi-length skirts paired with fluffy cable-knit sweaters andcardigans or button-down shirts with oversized collars; roomy-fitshorts with boxy edge-to-edge jackets; peg pants with an oversizedT-shirt with casually rolled sleeves; short and girly dresses - eitherwaisted with a bell-shaped skirt, one-shouldered with a chiffon ruffletwisting round the A-line body, or a long-sleeved pussy-bow shirtdress
Colours:Glorious technicolour with fuchsia and bubblegum pinks, Seville orange,sunshine yellow, lilac, aqua and neon green, tempered with sensibleblack and white
Fabric & knit: Eyelet broderie, viscose jersey, mohair cable knits, multicolour yarns, silk chiffon, cotton, "smile" intarsia
Print & pattern: An overblown painterly lemon print, Vichy checks, coral twigs, and doodled patterns of spots, ellipses and clouds
Details & trims:Plastic kiddies' beads ad buttons in eclectic collages, pearl buttonsand beads, corsages, ribbon bows, plastic chain trim on collars andcuffs, large starched shirt collars and cuffs, flirty ruffles, splicedand patchworked prints
Footwear: Fabric-tied sandals
Accessories:Coral-twig or seashell necklaces, rolled headscarves, top-handled boxybags with sailboat-motif closures, waist belts, large sunglasses withgraded lenses
The look: Joie de vivre!
Silhouette: Swishy midi-lengths, boxy tops
Key items:Full midi-length skirts paired with fluffy cable-knit sweaters andcardigans or button-down shirts with oversized collars; roomy-fitshorts with boxy edge-to-edge jackets; peg pants with an oversizedT-shirt with casually rolled sleeves; short and girly dresses - eitherwaisted with a bell-shaped skirt, one-shouldered with a chiffon ruffletwisting round the A-line body, or a long-sleeved pussy-bow shirtdress
Colours:Glorious technicolour with fuchsia and bubblegum pinks, Seville orange,sunshine yellow, lilac, aqua and neon green, tempered with sensibleblack and white
Fabric & knit: Eyelet broderie, viscose jersey, mohair cable knits, multicolour yarns, silk chiffon, cotton, "smile" intarsia
Print & pattern: An overblown painterly lemon print, Vichy checks, coral twigs, and doodled patterns of spots, ellipses and clouds
Details & trims:Plastic kiddies' beads ad buttons in eclectic collages, pearl buttonsand beads, corsages, ribbon bows, plastic chain trim on collars andcuffs, large starched shirt collars and cuffs, flirty ruffles, splicedand patchworked prints
Footwear: Fabric-tied sandals
Accessories:Coral-twig or seashell necklaces, rolled headscarves, top-handled boxybags with sailboat-motif closures, waist belts, large sunglasses withgraded lenses
Albino Deuxième
A deliciously feminine look from Albino D'Amato, who worked hiscolour palette with a painterly hand, colour-blocking simple shapestrimmed with overtly girlish flourishes.
"My reference point wasthe Baroque period in Europe and the 18th-century painting fromVelásquez and Reubens, in particular their palette of colours, and theplay of light and dark. The shapes and silhouettes are glamorous, butnot in a red-carpet way - more Yves Saint Laurent in the 70s. I wantedto explore a new silhouette, long and fluid," designer Albino D'Amatotold WGSN.
The look: Subtle 70s
Silhouette: Couture-like long and full, short and A-line
Key items:Exaggerated detailing emphasised short minidresses and soft kimonocoats, tied under the bust and with flowing caped sleeves. Long,flowing maxidresses came in triplicate blocks of colour, whileslash-front maxiskirts sported deep paper-bag waists and bow-tiedsashes. Pants were narrow and cigarette-shaped, to team with simpletunic or swingy A-line tops
Colour: A fresh palette ofcool marble greys and alabaster whites shot with vivid accents ofcitrine, onyx green, coral and washed mango
Fabric & knit: Couture-like silks and silk-linen blends; organza and taffetas added structure to the silhouettes
Print & pattern: Subtle neo-classic and Baroque-like florals
Details & trims: Dramatic bows, bib details, colour-blocking, ruffles
Footwear: Strappy sandals sporting a big floppy bow on one foot
Accessories: Floppy organza hats, bow-tied sashes
"My reference point wasthe Baroque period in Europe and the 18th-century painting fromVelásquez and Reubens, in particular their palette of colours, and theplay of light and dark. The shapes and silhouettes are glamorous, butnot in a red-carpet way - more Yves Saint Laurent in the 70s. I wantedto explore a new silhouette, long and fluid," designer Albino D'Amatotold WGSN.
The look: Subtle 70s
Silhouette: Couture-like long and full, short and A-line
Key items:Exaggerated detailing emphasised short minidresses and soft kimonocoats, tied under the bust and with flowing caped sleeves. Long,flowing maxidresses came in triplicate blocks of colour, whileslash-front maxiskirts sported deep paper-bag waists and bow-tiedsashes. Pants were narrow and cigarette-shaped, to team with simpletunic or swingy A-line tops
Colour: A fresh palette ofcool marble greys and alabaster whites shot with vivid accents ofcitrine, onyx green, coral and washed mango
Fabric & knit: Couture-like silks and silk-linen blends; organza and taffetas added structure to the silhouettes
Print & pattern: Subtle neo-classic and Baroque-like florals
Details & trims: Dramatic bows, bib details, colour-blocking, ruffles
Footwear: Strappy sandals sporting a big floppy bow on one foot
Accessories: Floppy organza hats, bow-tied sashes
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