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Clements Ribiero
Closing the final day of womenswear shows, design duo Clements Ribeiro was welcomed back on to the London runways last night with their first show in five years. Chanelling a softly 60s California vibe, the collection was expertly executed, edited (just 24 looks), and entirely covetable.
"The mood is long and linear - it’s all about the mid-calf length and, of course, lots and lots of print. For colour, we started off wanting something quite tropical, but then we found the prints and thought, 'California!'" Inacio Ribeiro told WGSN.
The look: Neat and prim
Silhouette: Midi-lengths, long and lean
Key items: Flat-front flared pants; columnar dresses and mid-length pencil skirts; waisted dresses with wrap top; long-line cardigans with pailette trim or neatly fitted collared cardigans; striped sweaters with buttoned shoulders; loose-fit cotton smock dress with decorative tone-on-tone yoke; swing jacket and box-pleated A-line skirt suit; pleat-front shorts with crisp button-down shirt
Colour: Sunshine yellow, mustard and fawn with chocolate brown, navy and warm milk white
Fabric & knit: Printed silks, georgette, cotton poplin, matte piqué jacquard, matte matelassé, Breton-striped knits, lace
Print & pattern: A white-on-fawn degradé lily of the valley silhouette floral, an overblown leaf-green creeping floral on navy-blue ground, three different poppy prints in placement bands working the length of trouser legs or dress lengths
Details & trims: Paillette rosettes, flat printed silk flower appliqués, three-dimensional knitted pockets, scalloped Chantilly lace trim, contrast-print panels
Footwear: Printed silk platform wedges with three-layered flaps at front
Accessories: Chunky clustered-paillette rope necklaces
Ashish
Designer Ashish Gupta described his muse as "the bastard child of Calamity Jane and Rooster Cogburn" in his show notes, setting the tone for a wacky Western theme, narrated in Gupta's signature sequins.
The look: Pop-trash rodeo
Silhouette: Flips between boyfriend baggy and slinky sexy
Key items: Western rodeo shirts and oversized T-shirt tops, worn with fringed hotpants or straight-cut jeans; slinky minidresses, square-cut T-shirt dresses and racer-back mid-length column dresses; fringed jean jackets, tracksuit sweatshirts and jogging pant shapes
Colour: Sky blue, rodeo red, neon pink, marl grey, mid-wash denim blue, black and white
Fabric & knit: Signature all-over sequins and paillettes, stonewash and tie-dye denims, sweatshirting
Print & pattern: Paisley bandana prints, circular tie-dye, trompe l’oeil crushed and creased denim. Sequinned motifs including cow print, leopardprint, coin spots, coyote heads, flames, and Western checks, plaids and ginghams
Details & trims: Long fringing in leather, suede or chain, draped cowls at the back of dresses
Footwear: Hand-painted cowboy boots (Ashish for Topshop) in two lengths, decorated with Western-themed appliqués or kitsch logos and branding
Accessories: Bandanas, trucker caps, stetsons, feathered headdresses
Burberry Prorsum
A heavily rooted biker theme ran through Christopher Bailey’s spring/summer collection, as he continued his foray into the house’s archive and reworked it for today’s all-knowing sassy Burberry girl.
The look: Luxe biker chic
Silhouette: Overtly body-con
Key items: The biker jacket and the biker jacket… Not forgetting the revamped trench. Bailey reworked classic biker heritage shapes, cutting them skin tight, cropping them to mini proportions, working them in silver or in python, or banding them with wet-look quilted patent and studding them with a battalion of gold spikes. Flippy peplum hems sat atop the tightest quilt-panelled or snakeskin leggings. Military detailing came into play for next summer’s narrow trench-updates - only size 6 and below need apply. A small selection of boxy satin shifts gave way to signature ruching and petal-tiered silk body-con dresses, next summer slashed low to reveal bare backs harnessed with leather straps
Colour: Stone-coloured neutrals added a luxe touch to biker silhouettes, teamed with accents of neon-like brights - turquoise, orange, magenta and lime - for wet-look patent accessories. Black and silver were the grounding colours, while those neon-like brights worked for slick satin shifts and a muted palette of saxe blue, military green, amethyst and elastoplast pink added a more feminine feel for tiered layered silk dresses
Fabric & knit: Leather, python, metallic leather, silk organza, silk, wet-look patent, ruched washed leather and silk satins, dense stretch qualities. Fine-gauge knits with mesh
Print & pattern: An abstracted leopardprint on ruched sheers
Details & trims: Quilted panels, contrast fabric/material blocking, leather straps on dresses, bristling spikes, mesh inserts
Footwear: Vertiginous high-heeled shoe boots with biker detailing
Accessories: Wet-look patent in brights for wide belts, python patchworked bags, biker belts with double chains, long envelope-shaped bags, double belts
Amanda Wakeley
Amanda Wakeley marches to her own beat, eschewing transient trends in favour of her signature brand of luxe sportswear and full-on evening elegance, all perfectly chimed with a simple colour palette and tactile luxe fabrications.
The look: Tribal safari
Silhouette: Soft, unstructured and draped
Key items: Luxurious tie-belt coats, simple sheath dresses worked in long or short proportions with subtle asymmetric details, draped tulip skirts and fluid all-in-ones. For evening, the emphasis was on draped toga-like silhouettes and simple columnar bustier dresses - elegant, simple and indisputably Wakeley
Colour: An almost degradé-like palette of luxurious sand-toned neutrals, morphing into cement greys, anthracite, deadly nightshade and cappuccino, punctuated with watermelon pink, ultramarine blue and white
Fabric & knit: Tactile fabrics with a luxe touch included sanded silks, punched leather, silk crepes and fluid silk jersey, mouselline sheers, silky crepons and mercerised jersey
Print & pattern: A splatter fresco print on sheer
Details & trims: Bands of pewter-like beads and multiple silver chains worked into over-layers or as design-defining trims
Footwear: Bronze leather open-front sandal boots
Accessories: Rose-gold cuffs and minimal collars, double leather belts, deep corset belts
Jonathan Saunders
A wonderfully fresh collection from Jonathan Saunders - an assured highlight of the week - saw the print designer soften his signature graphic style with short and swingy swimwear-inspired shapes and a "light and optimistic" colour palette.
“I tried to not work the prints in such a controlled manner this season - all the artworks are painted by hand and the diffused effect was airbrushed. It's a much more free way of working - it loosens everything up a bit and makes it feel less like architecture and more like clothes,” Jonathan Saunders told WGSN.
The look: Crisp summer sportswear
Silhouette: Short and swingy
Key items: Short skater skirts paired with sheer T-shirts or crisp cotton shirts buttoned to the neck, fit-and-flare sundresses or pencil-slim tailored bustier dresses with a sweetheart neckline, columnar maxidresses, simple halterneck slip dresses with delicate organza overlays, culottes, box-pleated circle skirts, swimsuit-inspired halterneck tops
Colour: A refreshing palette inspired by the off-beat combinations of artist Allen Jones - zingy Seville orange, grass green, sky blue and optic white, set against cement grey, café crème neutrals and black
Fabric & knit: Cotton poplins, linen weaves, printed organza overlays, swingy viscose, taffeta for party-dress options
Print & pattern: Crisp hoop stripes, airbrushed stripes, a screen-printed mono-colour silhouette Hawaiian floral, flecked spatter print, heat-sealed wet-look placement stripe
Details & trims: Grosgrain ribbon trims, sporty grid-mesh panels, micro-sequin border pattern, sash-wrapped waists
Footwear: Colour-blocked courts with ultra-low-cut vamps and ribbon-tied ankles, bow-trimmed leather sandals with coloured stacked leather heels
Accessories: Wide grosgrain ribbons with a skinny leather waist belts on top
Todd Lynn
Todd Lynn offered his most severe silhouettes to date, with reed-thin pants, corseted jackets and body-contoured dresses cut so slim, they resembled second skins, perhaps a conceptual synergy with his use of pythonskin for summer 2011.
The look: Snakeskin thin
Silhouette: Strictly tailored
Key items: Strictly tailored dresses with funnel necklines; narrow-cut city shorts; super-slim cigarette pants; funnelneck biker jackets with quilted shoulder panels; sharp-shouldered tailored jackets with corseted waists; asymmetric wrap jacket with buckled strap; straight-cut skirts with python patch pockets
Colour: Sandy beige, verdigris green, vapour grey, saxe blue, washed gold and dark anthracite
Fabric & knit: Leather, suede, pythonskin, stretch linen, cotton jersey, ramie silks, woven stripes
Details & trims: Silver zips snaking up the spine of dresses, tracing trouser pockets or contouring dresses; coiled mirror panels, spliced python panels
Footwear: Extreme platform/block-heeled shoe-boots by Christian Louboutin
Accessories: Asymmetrical leather panel harness, silver Shaun Leane shoulder pieces and carapaces
Marios Schwab
Cut through the intricately worded press release, and the Marios Schwab collection was full of the kind of desirable pieces any girl would want for next summer, from feminine slip dresses to mini biker-inspired jackets.
The look: Boudoir biker girl
Silhouette: Feminine and flirty versus body-con biker chic
Key items: The pretty camisole slip dress ran throughout this collection, with lingerie-inspired detailing such as lace edging, fluted hankie hems and multiple fine straps criss-crossed at the back. Contrast that feminine look with slick leather pants, leather shorts and pencil skirts, or with cropped biker-inspired jackets and tattoo-printed jersey. One stand-out dress came in
form-fitting stretch charmeuse with filigree lace inserts strategically placed to accentuate feminine curves
Colour: An offbeat mix of colour that unexpectedly worked with boudoir poudre pinks teamed with turquoise, a shot of pistachio green, tan and black
Fabric & knit: Crepe de chines, fluid silks, stretch cottons and charmeuse, lace, leather, printed jersey
Print & pattern: A tattoo print underpinned the collection, worked on pale poudre or turquoise grounds
Details & trims: Multiple straps with lingerie clasp detailing, lace inserts, self-coloured lace trims and edging, handkerchief hems, pintucks, D-rings, elastic gussets on leather. Swarovski crystal trims
Footwear: Black or tan shoe boots with contrast topstitch placements and D-ring trims
Accessories: Leather bridle harness, printed clutch purse, metal cuffs, D-ring trimmed belts
Jaeger
Stuart Stockdale continued to carve a signature look for the Jaeger London label, combining luxe sportswear with crisp angular tailoring and strongly defined silhouettes.
The look: An essential luxe summer wardrobe
Silhouette: Soft sportswear versus angular tailoring
Key items: The simple shift dress appeared in several guises, from crisp 60s colour-blocking to luxurious summer suede and sheened satin. Masculine tailoring inspired mannish ivory and black coats, maybe teamed with narrow cigarette pants. The parka came into play, reworked in cropped silhouettes, worked as a sporty utility dress or a billowing outerwear piece layered over a matching sporty dress in one of the strongest looks from the collection. Elsewhere it was all about slouchy crochet knits, soft suede shorts and semi-sheer tunic tops for a melodious riff on luxe sportswear
Colour: A strong dramatic palette of black and ivory, with watermelon, old gold, ink, absinthe and cornflower, grounded with luxurious neutrals such as buttermilk and sand
Fabric & knit: Luxurious fabrics are the hallmark of the Jaeger London brand, this season appearing as summer suede and leather, weightless eyelet cottons, double-faced satin and semi-sheer organza-like weights. Knits were super-fine or came as chunky crochet
Print & pattern: Stockdale addressed the emerging trend for cut-about stripes, along with a dramatic abstracted placement in watermelon reds or black on an ivory ground
Details & trims: This brand relies strongly on seasonal detailing, and for summer we will see contrast banding and colour-blocking along with subtle high-low hems
Footwear: Chunky platforms, ankle-strap sandals and sporty flats completed the look
Accessories: A great leather-trimmed canvas bag, coloured bum-bags, small cross-body bags, leather belts
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