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C'N'C Costume National
An exercise in modern minimalism from the C'N'C Costume Nationalline, with the simplest silhouettes and a classic palette punctuated withflashes of sporty brights.
The look: Minimalist sportswear
Silhouette: Easy proportional layers
Key items:The simple tunic was at the core of this collection, layered over fluidpants, soft athletic shorts or under sleeveless jackets and gilets. Wraptops provided an alternative silhouette, layered over a drapeyall-in-one or soft shift dresses, while for evening the tunic became abillowing colour-blocked kaftan
Colour: White, smoke, sand and tan, punctuated with golden yellow, poppy red, cornflower and a washed teal
Fabric & knit: Simple cottons and silk, linen and leather
Details & trims: Drawstrings and sporty cased waists, V-necklines, contrast banding details
Footwear: High-cut toeless shoe boots
Accessories: Clutch purses, often in brights, minimal collars
Gabriele Colangelo
Gabriele Colangelo ticked several of this season's emerging trendboxes with his clean fresh colour palette and easy silhouettes offsetwith asymmetric detailing.
The look: Weightless minimalism
Silhouette: Simple uncomplicated shapes
Key items:The minimalist shift was reworked in several variations, withasymmetric drape, a rounded tulip hipline or an off-kilter neckline. Asimple wrap coat in white organza summed up Colangelo's minimalistaesthetic, but he showed an equally assured hand in his fluid peg-cutpants teamed with a simple shell top, or in his tailored shorts suit
Colour: A minimal palette of white, smoke grey and black with an accent of vivid watermelon pink
Fabric & knit:Weightless organzas, simple cottons and silk. Colangelo also pushedboundaries with his sequinned nylon lace and metallic fabrics
Print & pattern: A smoky diffused ombré pattern on organza
Details & trims: Asymmetric drape, transparent layers fused together
Footwear: Simple nude plastic and white ankle-strap sandals
Versace
The latest collection from Versace was an exercise in exemplarytailoring, with sheath dresses and reed-thin pencil skirts cut at thenew longer length, moulded to the body as tightly as a second skin,while ultra-cropped jackets played with proportion.
"This season,we explored how opposites attract, playing with length, height, colourand fabric. We wanted to reference the glamour you expect from thehouse, but ultimately focus on a woman's sensuality - the curve of thebody, the skin, the shoulder, for example," said Donatella Versace.
The look: Graphic Greek
Silhouette: Tailored and lean
Key items:Super-tailored sheaths with cutaway shoulders, and high-waist pencilskirts worn with tiny cropped jackets; A-line skirted minidresses,tab-strapped tailored pinafores, dropped-waist second-skin T-shirtdresses with printed fringing, string-strapped body-con cocktaildresses, gowns built up of string fringes
Colours: White, black, café creme neutrals and shots of vivid turquoise, vermilion and yellow
Fabric & knit: Lycra jersey, stretch viscose, leather, macramé
Print & pattern: The Versace Greek fret motif is worked into all-over graphic patterns, multicolour broken stripes
Details & trims: Thin, linear PVC inserts, buttoned straps, printed fringing, cutaway backs, stand-up jacket collars
Footwear: Cutaway sandal boots with 12cm-high stiletto heels and no platform
Accessories: Martingales (back-belts) with large decorative buttons
Gianfranco Ferré
High hemlines, sharp tailoring and waist-cinching silhouettes,teamed with manes of glossy hair and endless long legs, upped theglamour quota on the runways with the latest offering from GianfrancoFerré for spring/summer 2011.
Co-designer Tommaso Aquilano told WGSN: "The inspiration started withjazz music, hot and sensual. We found a book on the life of EllaFitzgerald in the maison library and drew reference from that. We werealso fascinated with reflected light off crystal, off fabric, like amirror to reflect the beauty of the woman."
The look: Sassy Milanese glamour
Silhouette: Sharply cut and waisted
Key items:Strictly tailored wrap coats and sharp double-lapel pantsuits,sleeveless wrap jackets and sassy thigh-high pencil skirts,waist-cinching skater dresses and skimpy hot pants upped the sexyquota, while simple sequin tees and shifts brought the design duo'sjazz inspirations into play. For evening, long floor-sweeping gowns inplissé sheers with python trims
Colour: Graphic black and white punctuated with camel, grey and silver, with accents of hot pink, lime, purple and gold
Fabric & knit: Plaited and woven macramé-like leathers, python, organza, satin, sunburst plissés, silk knits
Print & pattern:Jazzy blocks of colour worked in glittering coloured crystals,confirming a Deco-like feel. Zigzag placements and graphic stripes
Details & trims: Deep plunging V-necklines and sexy cutouts, criss-cross straps, double lapels on tailoring, crystal embellishments
Footwear: Triple-strap suede sandals with crystal-studded heel case . Laser-cut mules with octagonal gold mirror heels
Accessories: Super-wide belts, metal belts
Etro
Inspired by the graphic geometry of tribal patterns, Etro'ssignature folkloric looks were given a fresher, more urban aestheticfor summer 2011.
"I wanted to give a new vision of folk - moremodern, linear and urban but still decorative and rich. It's colourfuland graphic," said Veronica Etro.
The look: Techno-folk
Silhouette: Flips between square-cut, long-and-lean and A-line maxi
Key items:High-waisted cropped straight-cut pants; unstructured open swing coatswith short-sleeves, sometimes with pointed handkerchief hems; signaturemaxidresses either one-shouldered or halterneck; pouffy peasant tops ordresses with cutaway shoulders and blouson-sleeved tunics as tops orlengthened into loose-fitting maxis; caped dresses and tops oroversized shirts tucked in at the front and left trailing at the back;dhoti jumpsuits; subtle 70s shapes including A-line skirts and flaredpants or suits; slim-fit T-shirt dresses and tailored tank tunics wornover printed flared trousers
Colours: Retro 70s shades ofmustard, burnt orange and brown, with bold punchy pops of turquoise,emerald and cobalt. Sandy desert neutrals and black anchored the palette
Fabric & knit: Simple cottons and linens contrasted with textured jacquards, knife-pleated georgette and lots of silk
Print & pattern:Scarf prints, overblown florals, tribal patterns and the signaturepaisley motif in graphic black and white, disintegrating into zigzags
Details & trims: Micro black and white beading, striped metal mesh, embroidered and patchworked tribal patterning, plissé
Footwear: Raw wood platform sandals with suede and lizard straps, decorated with single rows of glass beads
Accessories:Thin belts with shiny metal plaques, metal cuffs and collar necklaces,structured leather handbags in scarf patterns or decorated with metalshell embroideries. The signature paisley jacquard bags arrived inebony/ivory colourways
Antonio Marras
Antonio Marras is a hapless romantic, and this season's story wasinspired by a love letter from the poet John Keats. Marras drew on theline "I almost wish we were butterflies and liv'd but three summerdays" for his finale of fragile white slip dresses and pinafores,paraded under bursts of tiny paper butterflies that fell from theceiling.
The look: Fragile romance
Silhouette: Delicate and breezy, layered lengths
Key items:Fluid halterneck maxidresses; dipped-hem slip-dresses and pinafores orlayered aprons; printed sheer maxiskirts teamed with wide-cut T-shirtswith sheer panels either at the back and sleeves or a sweetheart-shapedfront; high-waisted shirred briefs, cropped bra tops and all-in-oneswimsuits; swing tunics layered over cropped straight-leg pants; areworked tux with sleeveless jacket and pinched waist (decorated withpetrol-black feathers) and tapered peg pants; sleeveless trench coatsand jackets; swing jackets and boxy, edge-to-edge short-sleeved jackets
Colours: Rich aubergine, pale peony pink and a brighter geranium with khaki, nude, white and a touch of black
Fabric & knit:Washed linen, cotton, breezy chiffons, fil coupe, crepe and signaturepatchworked jacquards, lace and broderie anglaise, spotted tulle
Print & pattern:A variety of florals including a thorny red rose stem repeated on whiteground, a hand-painted and overblown poppy placement, and an antiqueWilliam Morris-style creeping floral on cream ground. Elsewhere therewere painterly abstracts and spliced zebra stripes
Details & trims:Patchworked fabric collages, shirring, plisse, cluster of beads, laceappliqué, X-back straps, sheer panels or sleeves on tailoring
Footwear: Thong sandals, silver or bronze foil metallic flat-platform sandals
Accessories: Long-strapped leather shoulder bags with concertina-construction pockets
Moschino
Irreverent, exuberant and unashamedly playful, a Moschino collectionis aimed at the most fearless fashion folk, and this season it was allabout amplified nautical motifs and Western styling.
"I usedstripes, polka dots, Vichy checks, white, blue, red, black and yellow:this collection bursts with graphic energy," Rossella Jardini told WGSN.
The look: A playful take on nautical-meets-Western
Silhouette: Full and frivolous silhouettes hug the bust and flare at the hips
Key items:Signature boxy skirt-suits with edge-to-edge jackets, double-breastedsuits with cropped pleat-front pants, a bomber jacket studded with goldthimbles, relaxed-fit five-pocket pants, puff-sleeved gingham peasanttop with corset worn with a full-circle skirt, or a voluminous peasantdress with cinched and belted waist, peg-leg or high paper-bag waistjeans in mid-wash denim, ruffled-bib white shirts
Colours: The classic nautical combination of red, white and navy, with a graphic shots of sunshine yellow or cobalt blue
Fabric & knit: Linen viscose, cotton, printed silk, washed silk, piqué, gingham and leather, mid-wash denim
Print & pattern: A riot of coin spots, block stripes and Vichy checks, freehand spots and diamonds in an all-over repeat and border pattern
Details & trims:Dangling pearls, gold thimbles used as studs, flouncy ruffles,basket-woven grosgrain ribbons, short metal fringing, fabric rosettesand 3D flower appliqués
Footwear: Ribbon-tied sandals, mid-heel peep-toe sling-backs with side bow
Accessories:Wide waist belts, pussy-bow silk neck ties, headscarves/turbans, Lilyof Florence gold earrings, spotted enamel bracelets, gold chain beltswith tassel tips, rigid PVC handbags are trimmed in silk tie fabric orbraided measuring tape, used to imitate a matelassé effect; oversizedcowboy hats, black-tinted sunglasses
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