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Hannah Marshall
Hot young thing Hannah Marshall told WGSN her spring/summer collection was an exploration into the privacy of body and mind, and the way we control access and exposure of our most intimate inner lives, citing multimedia visual artist Brian Dettmer a key reference.
The look: Strict machine
Silhouette: Body-conscious, tailored and engineered
Key items: Dresses were a principal direction, with options including a tabard-style dress cut away at the sides, a tailored minidress with a bateau neckline and elbow-length sleeve, and a straight-cut shirt (buttoned to the neck) and a long-length blazer with sheer back, both worn as dresses. Other key pieces included a body-con full-length skirt, a jumpsuit with a sheer top, cropped sheer shirts, knee-length pleat-front city shorts and high-waisted skinny pants
Colours: Grey, stone, chalky mint and white with inserts of discreet colour, and lashings of her signature black
Fabric & knit: Matt suede, leather, silk marocain and a heavy emphasis on sheers and transparencies
Details & trims: Razor-thin panels stacked and layered to create a concertina effect running down the spine, across shoulder blades or decolletage, and as sleeve and pocket trims
Footwear: Cut-out platform wedges in black and ice blue/mint green suede
Sass & Bide
Modern-day fashion tribes stalked the Sass & Bide runway, with a compact collection of elongated knotted and draped silhouettes, offset with dramatic accessories.
The look: Modern primitive
Silhouette: Long and lean, softened with asymmetric draping and knotted details
Key items: Skinny but softly draped pants underpinned the collection, appearing as all-in-ones or with wrapped, draped apron fronts. Soft shorts and body-con dresses added an alternative silhouette, teamed with jersey tanks and tees, a soft blazer and a bolero jacket, while bristling raffia adding dimension to short skirt shapes
Colour: An organic palette of scorched-earth browns, grey and khaki green with watermelon, copper, black and ivory
Fabric & knit: Lightweight washed silks and jersey, georgette and metallic jersey added to the soft, draped feel of the silhouette
Print & pattern: Digitally printed silks that used organic natural elements for inspiration in shades of grey, ivory, black and copper
Details & trims: Asymmetric draping and knotting, appliquéd panels, copper stud details, elastic-cased waists
Footwear: Towering spindly heeled shoe boots and courts, with futuristic metallic trims and appliqué zig-zags
Accessories: A strong accessory showing that included raffia-fringed ruffs, modernist silver or copper collars, cuffs and breastplates, raw leather harnesses and multi-strapped belts, copper belts
Felder Felder
Designers Daniela and Annette Felder were inspired by a rebellious downtown girl fascinated by the free spirit of Easy Rider, The Trip and Lizard King Jim Morrison. Despite the rock 'n' roll references, this was a softer collection for the duo, with more emphasis on nude colours and wearable tailored dresses, while their signature leather was also less restrictive.
The look: Born to be wild
Silhouette: Either cinched at the waist and flared or body-con in mini-length
Key items: A plethora of dress shapes including tailored shifts, long-sleeved body-con styles and short skater dresses. High-waisted pencil or circle skirts, skinny leather pants, sheer crewneck tops, waterfall-front jackets and a caped jacket. Lingerie-inspired items such as high-waisted retro briefs and bra tops
Colour: Black mixed with shades inspired by nature - bright fuchsia pink, deep night-sky blue and a bright ocean blue. Muted nudes, creams and a series of greys ranging from pale ash through to charcoal grey
Fabric & knit: Signature leathers, soft chiffon and organza, suede, jersey, silk
Print & pattern: Dye effects resembling skeletal bones
Deatils & trims: Laser-cut and folded leather made to resemble a skeleton or spine, heavy metallic embroideries, layered ruffles adding volume, exposed gold zips on pants, crystal beading, metal hardware including studs and eyelets in silver and gold
Footwear: Ankle boots with chunky angular heels, designed by Kat Maconie and decorated with eyelets, studs and screws
Bora Aksu
There was a sense of subversive boudoir romance at Bora Aksu, with just a hint of that era so beloved of designers - the 80s.
The look: A subversive romance
Key items: Skinny but softly draped pants underpinned the collection, appearing as all-in-ones or with wrapped, draped apron fronts. Soft shorts and body-con dresses added an alternative silhouette, teamed with jersey tanks and tees, a soft blazer and a bolero jacket, while bristling raffia adding dimension to short skirt shapes
Colour: An organic palette of scorched-earth browns, grey and khaki green with watermelon, copper, black and ivory
Fabric & knit: Lightweight washed silks and jersey, georgette and metallic jersey added to the soft, draped feel of the silhouette
Print & pattern: Digitally printed silks that used organic natural elements for inspiration in shades of grey, ivory, black and copper
Details & trims: Asymmetric draping and knotting, appliquéd panels, copper stud details, elastic-cased waists
Footwear: Towering spindly heeled shoe boots and courts, with futuristic metallic trims and appliqué zig-zags
Accessories: A strong accessory showing that included raffia-fringed ruffs, modernist silver or copper collars, cuffs and breastplates, raw leather harnesses and multi-strapped belts, copper belts
Felder Felder
Designers Daniela and Annette Felder were inspired by a rebellious downtown girl fascinated by the free spirit of Easy Rider, The Trip and Lizard King Jim Morrison. Despite the rock 'n' roll references, this was a softer collection for the duo, with more emphasis on nude colours and wearable tailored dresses, while their signature leather was also less restrictive.
The look: Born to be wild
Silhouette: Either cinched at the waist and flared or body-con in mini-length
Key items: A plethora of dress shapes including tailored shifts, long-sleeved body-con styles and short skater dresses. High-waisted pencil or circle skirts, skinny leather pants, sheer crewneck tops, waterfall-front jackets and a caped jacket. Lingerie-inspired items such as high-waisted retro briefs and bra tops
Colour: Black mixed with shades inspired by nature - bright fuchsia pink, deep night-sky blue and a bright ocean blue. Muted nudes, creams and a series of greys ranging from pale ash through to charcoal grey
Fabric & knit: Signature leathers, soft chiffon and organza, suede, jersey, silk
Print & pattern: Dye effects resembling skeletal bones
Deatils & trims: Laser-cut and folded leather made to resemble a skeleton or spine, heavy metallic embroideries, layered ruffles adding volume, exposed gold zips on pants, crystal beading, metal hardware including studs and eyelets in silver and gold
Footwear: Ankle boots with chunky angular heels, designed by Kat Maconie and decorated with eyelets, studs and screws
Bora Aksu
There was a sense of subversive boudoir romance at Bora Aksu, with just a hint of that era so beloved of designers - the 80s.
The look: A subversive romance
Silhouette: Waisted with rounded hip emphasis
Key items: The form-fitting dress underpinned the collection, starting off with discreet ruffles and a high neckline, morphing into something altogether more sexy, with a tulip hipline and exaggerated quilted and padded panel detailing emphasised by scrolling frills and piping. Elsewhere it was all about tie-neck blouses in red satin, hip-slung pants, and pencil skirts teamed with cropped bell-hop jackets
Colour: A tight palette of black, ivory, grey, inky midnight blue, boudoir pink and dramatic blood red
Fabric & knit: Boudoir sheers and satins combined with tree-bark silks, sporty mesh and simple cottons, with the emerging trend for self-coloured embroidered lace and broderie
Print & pattern: A complex floral mix used as a highlight trim or belt detail
Details & trims: Ruffles and boudoir-style corset hooks and eyes - an emerging trend for next season - offset with complex panel detailing in matt-shine fabric mixes, quilted and padded for an organic feel and defined with scrolling plissé frills and piping
Footwear: High courts with ribbon ghillie lacing
Accessories: Novelty mesh and lace hosiery, wide cummerbands, narrow rouleau ribbon-tie belts
Key items: The form-fitting dress underpinned the collection, starting off with discreet ruffles and a high neckline, morphing into something altogether more sexy, with a tulip hipline and exaggerated quilted and padded panel detailing emphasised by scrolling frills and piping. Elsewhere it was all about tie-neck blouses in red satin, hip-slung pants, and pencil skirts teamed with cropped bell-hop jackets
Colour: A tight palette of black, ivory, grey, inky midnight blue, boudoir pink and dramatic blood red
Fabric & knit: Boudoir sheers and satins combined with tree-bark silks, sporty mesh and simple cottons, with the emerging trend for self-coloured embroidered lace and broderie
Print & pattern: A complex floral mix used as a highlight trim or belt detail
Details & trims: Ruffles and boudoir-style corset hooks and eyes - an emerging trend for next season - offset with complex panel detailing in matt-shine fabric mixes, quilted and padded for an organic feel and defined with scrolling plissé frills and piping
Footwear: High courts with ribbon ghillie lacing
Accessories: Novelty mesh and lace hosiery, wide cummerbands, narrow rouleau ribbon-tie belts
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