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Rodarte
To the tune of 70s classics like the theme from the film Midnight Cowboy, Rodarte played with a variety of loose bohemian inspiration: California’s arts and crafts movement, Wild West cowboys and redwoods.
"The California redwood colours fit so perfectly with the idea of 70s suburbia and then I imagined a place of cowboys and the Wild West," Laura Mulleavy told WGSN. "The silhouette became like armour and the porcelain idea came from the silhouette but it also went with wood carvings."
The look: Ad-hoc layers and sculpted collage
The silhouette: Strong cut-out shoulders and panels, with wispy trailing hems
Key items: Blouse with cut-out shoulder, layered skirt of plaid linen and trailing buffalo check, sculpted jacket with cut-out shoulder, ‘Croc’ embossed leather jacket, wrap skirt, suede crop top, leather and hammered sequin dress with asymmetric draping, denim blue plaid silk ‘Chinese’ top, high-waist slim pant, high-cropped wood panel print mock turtleneck in leather
Colour: Anchor palette of taupe, white, cream, navy, caramel and walnut. Complementary shades of warm peach, rust, porcelain blue, denim blue, moss green, chartreuse and gold
Fabric & knit: Guipure lace, silk, chiffon, cotton, linen, leather, hammered silk and gold lamé, buffalo checks, plaid
Print & pattern: Wood panel print, croc-embossed leather, checks, navy/white stripe, blue porcelain Ming print and abstract dogstooth pattern
Details & trims: Ribbon embroidery and hammered sequins.
Footwear: Gold metal heel with wood print, carved wood heel with embossed leather and carved wood wedge with Ming printed leather
Accessories: Sheer white socks, hand-carved belt and hand-carved barrette
marc by Marc Jacobs
There were plenty of prints and stand-out stripes at marc by Marc Jacobs, but the spring collection struck a more simple tone than usual. Always retro-inspired - this time taking several cues from the 70s - the clothes delivered straightforward colour and stripped-back, classic details.
The look: 70s pop prep
The silhouette: For women, A-line with cap sleeves. For men, slim and relaxed.
Key items: For women, multi-stripe jumpsuit with spaghetti straps; prim dark-yellow dress to mid-calf with gathered cap sleeve; multi-stripe 70s sweater; high-waist twill pant; twill safari jacket and short; belted wrap coat in khaki olive; oatmeal twill poncho; billowy dress with drawstring belt; side-ruched bikini bottom; halter dress with long neck tie; ruffled bikini top; gathered A-line striped skirt; boxy white top with red stripes; embroidered dot cap-sleeve blouse. For men, grey gabardine trench; grey cashmere sweater with white elbow patches; grey suiting plaid jacket and slim pant; red/blue thick-stripe polo shirt; wrinkled pinstripe pant
Colour: Summer boardwalk classics such as lobster red, navy, cream and white, as well as dark yellow, orange, cinnamon and nutmeg. Barbie pink appeared in more playful beach-ready looks, while heather grey, khaki and olive were anchors
Fabric & knit: For women, silk, cotton sateen, cotton twill, washed canvas, cashmere, cotton jersey, nylon, georgette, corduroy. For men, seersucker
Print & pattern: For women, multi-stripe, color-block, floral, dot embroidery. For men, tonal plaid, multi-stripe, pinstripe
Details & trims: Dot embroidery, crystal dots
Footwear: For women, canvas sneaker wedge, Mary Jane lizard-print cork wedges, metallic striped wedge, and leather oxford wedge. For men, gold glitter lo-tops, suede lo-tops and suede hi-tops
Accessories: For women, leather pouchette, leather drawstring bag, leather/raffia bag, and basket-weave equestrian cap. For men, vintage leather satchel, vintage leather tote, vintage leather "festival" bag, and washed canvas satchel
Jason Wu for TSE
Jason Wu's debut at TSE brought many covetable, chunky knits as well as clean tailoring, with a subtle blend of innovative textures.
The look: Luxe knits with subdued tailoring
The silhouette: High-waist with lean tailored jackets
Key items: Gauze-knit lace-up bra; cotton/satin long tuxedo blazer; black web-knit chiffon-lined pencil skirt; chiffon-knit slouchy pullover; pleated trouser short; high-waist pleated slim pant; strapless sweaterdress with contrast asymmetric panel; boxy grey jacket with leather binding and slim pant; wide-leg trouser; leather/linen cardigan; silk blouse with long neck tie
Colour: A practical palette of black, white, heather grey, cream and taupe, with stylish touches of red, navy and yellow with copper trims
Fabric & knit: Knitted chiffon, silk, linen, leather, cotton twill, cotton piqué, charmeuse, silk gauze, merino wool and cashmere
Print & pattern: Latex digital brushstroke print
Details & trims: Trims of dyed leather, horn, shell buttons and metal pins
Footwear: Grey leather shoe-boots with low-cut heel case, high-heeled leather sandals with three wide velcro straps
Accessories: Silver metal chokers, silver metal cuffs worn on both wrists, skinny leather belts, knitted cowl scarves
Karen Walker
A signature collection from Karen Walker, who hit the spot with her commercial mix of soft tailoring, feminine ruffles and casual, sporty separates.
The look: Summer in the city
Silhouette: Neatly feminine and unstructured
Key items: The slim-legged pant was a key anchor, teamed with simple SB blazers, drapey jackets or easy boxy smock tops. Dresses were cut to the knee with multi-ruffled detailing, full dirndl or crystal-pleat skirts, taking the feminine look to the max. Marled jersey tees, a coated parka and soft drawstring shorts brought a signature sportswear vibe into the mix
Colour: A muted palette punctuated with flashes of summery brights, in line with emerging trends seen on the runway this week - think khaki, sand, navy and cement with accents of old gold, marigold, daffodil and cornflower
Fabric & knit: Simple cottons, cotton lawn, linen and marled jersey contrasted with the more dressy looks of taffeta and silk faille
Print & pattern: A heady bouquet of mixed florals, from small-scale all-overs and silhouette patterns to dramatic hydrangea motifs mixed with sweet bluebirds, and an offbeat giraffe pattern thrown into the mix
Details & trims: Ladylike dressmaker details such as grosgrain edging, sporty drawstrings and pretty self ruffles
Footwear: Cityscape loafers worked in high or flat profiles with bi-colour combinations, piping and tasselled trims
Accessories: Pretty ruffled bags, printed clutch bags, wooden-framed bags, wooden pendants of birds and bird houses, contrast webbing belts with metal clasps, coloured resin cuffs and bangles, and bow-trimmed leather belts in shiny leathers or metallics
Vera Wang
A more youthful look from Vera Wang this season, who left her signature romantic silhouettes behind in favour of something more sporty and urban.
The look: Urban sports with a subtle oriental twist
Silhouette: Elongated, softened with manipulated tucks, ruching and drapes
Key items: Long shorts and skinny pants helped give the collection an urban edge, teamed with ruched asymmetric hem tops or V-necked kimono-like shirts. The longer-line pencil sheath was the key dress shape, punctuated with manipulated draping at the hipm, asymmetric one-shouldered effects or all-over ruching. Elastic cased bloomer shorts brought a soft sense of volume, perfect to marry with slim zipped hooded tops.
Colour: A simple Japonesque palette of black, white and grey with flashes of poppy red and single accents of pistachio, cerulean and blush for pretty sheer draped dresses with trailing hems at the back
Fabric & knit: Silky chameuse and satin, crisp taffetas, gazar, lightweight sheers, brocade
Print & pattern: Floral patterned brocade with an oriental feel
Details & trims: Flat samuri-inspired quilting, zips, trailing hems
Footwear: High-cut toeless shoe boots in satin
Accessories: Socks, belts with Turks head knotted detail. Wide waist-cinching belts
Matthew Ames
Matthew Ames' clean, geometric signature showed especially well for spring 2011, which is looking to be a perfect season for sharp panelled dresses and angular handkerchief hems.
"I added a lot of texture to fabrics, with new colour and shapes, in order to better define the style and sensibility of this woman, so there was a strong femininity," Ames told WGSN.
The look: Clean, shapely construction
The silhouette: Relaxed A-line with boxy tops and shaped skirts
Key items: Silk dupioni belted sleeveless coat dress with slit pockets; navy linen skirt with one-sided handkerchief hem; strapless mesh top; over-the-knee A-line skirt in striped raw silk; belted twill safari jacket; one-shoulder silk/linen mesh top wrapping at waist; criss-cross halter bandeau in georgette; silk dupioni short short; cropped georgette halter top; linen dress with high-side slit revealing short
Colour: Natural shades such as white, ivory, beige and taupe complemented the collection's raw simplicity, while coral, turquoise, cactus, copper and curry shades added to its feminine feel
Fabric & knit: Cotton twill, silk georgette, raw silk, silk dupioni, silk crepe, linen, cotton, silk mesh and suede
Print & pattern: Stripes and color/texture blocking
Details & trims: Curved and angular hems, flat cargo pockets
Accessories: Turquoise and bone cuff, curvy gold metal choker, spiked metal and coral pendant, silk georgette headscarf, metal ankle cuffs
Temperley London and Alice by Temperley
Alice Temperley looked to a medieval Guinevere for the chains and romantic frills in her mainline collection, while diffusion line Alice took a more lighthearted fairytale tone, à la Marie Antoinette.
"The Temperley woman is very ethereal and romantic," the designer told WGSN. "We wanted to make sure that this collection was getting back to what we are known for, because everything else goes into the diffusion line."
The look: Ruffles in chains
The silhouette: Waist-conscious with frills
Key items: In the mainline collection, tiered lace-trimmed ruffle strapless in powder pink, long high-waist leather strapless in black, one-shouldered draped silver dress, white and silver long-sleeved knit minidress
Colour: Black, silver, grey, powder pink and white create a mix of hard and soft elements, while deep olive green and leopard brown touch on the summer safari trend
Fabric & knit: Silk jersey, leather, silver foiled silk knit, chiffon, cotton and lace
Print & pattern: Animal print, "King Arthur" floral architectural pattern
Details & trims: Lace trimmed ruffles
Accessories: Chain/leather harness necklaces and belts, round leather drawstring bag with gold accents, black leather bracelets and clutch bags with silver stud detail
G-Star
Silhouette: Masculine boyfriend cuts, occasional swing shapes
Key items: Jeans: long-rise dhoti, wide-legged gaucho, slouchy boyfriend cut, tapered and cropped carrot leg, ruched straight-leg, bustier jumpsuit with wide-cut legs. Shorts/trousers: rolled boyfriend shorts worn low-slung, micro-length loose-fit hotpants, high-waisted shorts with flared leg, leather bloomers, cotton utility playsuit, exaggerated jodhpurs with leather cuffs, long john-style leggings with button-fly. Outerwear: tailored sleeveless biker jackets, windcheaters with dipped hem and assymetric zip closure, classic blue jean jacket with cropped sleeves, knee-length swing or flared coats, double-layered blazers. Tops: Western shirt, layered fine-gauge jersey tees and tanks
Colour: Crisp white, eggshell pales, denim blues, navy, desert khaki
Fabric & knit: Unwashed denim, treated and crumpled indigo denim, washed blue denim, lightweight techno fabrics, mercerised cottons, leather, twill, sateen, fine-gauge jersey
Details & trims: Raw-edge denim, paper-bag waists, spliced knee panels, industrial zips, Aertex panels, traditional denim hardware including poppers and rivets
Footwear: Thong sandal boots, sandal boots with cut-away heel case, peep-toe ankle-length sandal boots, lace-up oxford shoes
Accessories: Bag with leather single-shoulder harness and cross-body webbing strap, extra-long leather belts, webbing belts with multiple buckles, Legion caps and headscarves
Narciso Rodriguez
For spring, Narciso Rodriguez updated old-Hollywood glamour with long-length bias-cut dresses that boasted sheer panels and high, straight slits.
The look: Precision classic
The silhouette: Slinky, long-length
Key items: Fitted over-the-knee shift; silk bias halter dress with sheer panelling; bias silk skirt with long side slit; slim pencil pant in waxed linen; bandeau tank with sheer panel; contour-seamed bias dress; relaxed open-lapel linen jacket; bias dress embroidered with rose-gold sequins and overlaid with black chiffon cloqué
Colour: Black and white anchored the collection, with brief appearances of coral red, pale green, ash grey and blush
Fabric & knit: Linen canvas, silk, silk crepe, compact wool, silk cloqué, chiffon cloqué, chiffon jacquard, waxed linen and fil coupé
Print & pattern: Tonal floral jacquard, abstract embroidery
Details & trims: Rose-gold sequins with black chiffon overlay
The silhouette: Relaxed A-line with boxy tops and shaped skirts
Key items: Silk dupioni belted sleeveless coat dress with slit pockets; navy linen skirt with one-sided handkerchief hem; strapless mesh top; over-the-knee A-line skirt in striped raw silk; belted twill safari jacket; one-shoulder silk/linen mesh top wrapping at waist; criss-cross halter bandeau in georgette; silk dupioni short short; cropped georgette halter top; linen dress with high-side slit revealing short
Colour: Natural shades such as white, ivory, beige and taupe complemented the collection's raw simplicity, while coral, turquoise, cactus, copper and curry shades added to its feminine feel
Fabric & knit: Cotton twill, silk georgette, raw silk, silk dupioni, silk crepe, linen, cotton, silk mesh and suede
Print & pattern: Stripes and color/texture blocking
Details & trims: Curved and angular hems, flat cargo pockets
Accessories: Turquoise and bone cuff, curvy gold metal choker, spiked metal and coral pendant, silk georgette headscarf, metal ankle cuffs
Temperley London and Alice by Temperley
Alice Temperley looked to a medieval Guinevere for the chains and romantic frills in her mainline collection, while diffusion line Alice took a more lighthearted fairytale tone, à la Marie Antoinette.
"The Temperley woman is very ethereal and romantic," the designer told WGSN. "We wanted to make sure that this collection was getting back to what we are known for, because everything else goes into the diffusion line."
The look: Ruffles in chains
The silhouette: Waist-conscious with frills
Key items: In the mainline collection, tiered lace-trimmed ruffle strapless in powder pink, long high-waist leather strapless in black, one-shouldered draped silver dress, white and silver long-sleeved knit minidress
Colour: Black, silver, grey, powder pink and white create a mix of hard and soft elements, while deep olive green and leopard brown touch on the summer safari trend
Fabric & knit: Silk jersey, leather, silver foiled silk knit, chiffon, cotton and lace
Print & pattern: Animal print, "King Arthur" floral architectural pattern
Details & trims: Lace trimmed ruffles
Accessories: Chain/leather harness necklaces and belts, round leather drawstring bag with gold accents, black leather bracelets and clutch bags with silver stud detail
G-Star
Utility looks are the G-Star signature, and for next summer they had a borrowed-from-the-boys appeal, with masculine jean cuts paired with layered jersey basics.
"It's the G-Star handwriting of three-dimensional jeans, but in combination with desert elements, resulting in a colour palette of off-white, beige and black-and-white," colection stylist Remco de Nijs told WGSN.
The look: Summer utility "It's the G-Star handwriting of three-dimensional jeans, but in combination with desert elements, resulting in a colour palette of off-white, beige and black-and-white," colection stylist Remco de Nijs told WGSN.
Silhouette: Masculine boyfriend cuts, occasional swing shapes
Key items: Jeans: long-rise dhoti, wide-legged gaucho, slouchy boyfriend cut, tapered and cropped carrot leg, ruched straight-leg, bustier jumpsuit with wide-cut legs. Shorts/trousers: rolled boyfriend shorts worn low-slung, micro-length loose-fit hotpants, high-waisted shorts with flared leg, leather bloomers, cotton utility playsuit, exaggerated jodhpurs with leather cuffs, long john-style leggings with button-fly. Outerwear: tailored sleeveless biker jackets, windcheaters with dipped hem and assymetric zip closure, classic blue jean jacket with cropped sleeves, knee-length swing or flared coats, double-layered blazers. Tops: Western shirt, layered fine-gauge jersey tees and tanks
Colour: Crisp white, eggshell pales, denim blues, navy, desert khaki
Fabric & knit: Unwashed denim, treated and crumpled indigo denim, washed blue denim, lightweight techno fabrics, mercerised cottons, leather, twill, sateen, fine-gauge jersey
Details & trims: Raw-edge denim, paper-bag waists, spliced knee panels, industrial zips, Aertex panels, traditional denim hardware including poppers and rivets
Footwear: Thong sandal boots, sandal boots with cut-away heel case, peep-toe ankle-length sandal boots, lace-up oxford shoes
Accessories: Bag with leather single-shoulder harness and cross-body webbing strap, extra-long leather belts, webbing belts with multiple buckles, Legion caps and headscarves
Narciso Rodriguez
For spring, Narciso Rodriguez updated old-Hollywood glamour with long-length bias-cut dresses that boasted sheer panels and high, straight slits.
The look: Precision classic
The silhouette: Slinky, long-length
Key items: Fitted over-the-knee shift; silk bias halter dress with sheer panelling; bias silk skirt with long side slit; slim pencil pant in waxed linen; bandeau tank with sheer panel; contour-seamed bias dress; relaxed open-lapel linen jacket; bias dress embroidered with rose-gold sequins and overlaid with black chiffon cloqué
Colour: Black and white anchored the collection, with brief appearances of coral red, pale green, ash grey and blush
Fabric & knit: Linen canvas, silk, silk crepe, compact wool, silk cloqué, chiffon cloqué, chiffon jacquard, waxed linen and fil coupé
Print & pattern: Tonal floral jacquard, abstract embroidery
Details & trims: Rose-gold sequins with black chiffon overlay
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