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Gucci
A perfectly pitched collection from Gucci on the opening day of the Milan shows, as Frida Giannini pulled out all the stops for a 70s-themed look that ticked all the season's hot trend boxes.
"The starting point for this collection was sophisticated seduction. The Gucci women is confident and stronger than ever," Frida Giannini told WGSN.
The look: Safari glamazon meets 70s YSL
The silhouette: Waisted and softly tailored
Key items: The easy pencil skirt and soft peg pants were hot key items, teamed with slouchy blazers, asymmetric draped tops, cropped biker jackets and casual safari jackets. Elsewhere it was all about the peg-top jodphur with laced leg detailing, drapey jumpsuits and crochet tees. Short sundowner dresses were beaded, fringed and feathered and came with full-on Gucci sex appeal
Colour: A zingy palette of hot summer brights, with turquoise, jade, purple and mandarin tempered with cool sandy neutrals, ivory, caramel and black
Fabric & knit: Luxe-touch suedes, silk, silk-jersey and satin charmeuse were offset with the more rustic appeal of linen, crochet, macramé and fringed leathers
Details & trims: Decorative detailing added a tribal North African feel, with embroidery, studs and fringing, feathers and beads, while lacing details traced the leg of form-fitting pants
Footwear: A multitude of covetable summer shoes, from basketweave high-legged boots to multi-strap sandal boots and ankle-strap platforms
Accessories: The waisted silhouette put emphasis on belts, which came in macramé, as a deep corset belt, or with swinging tassels on leather or gold python. Alligator double-handle bags, tasselled satchels and python clutch bags completed the look
Alberta Ferretti
Alberta Ferretti tapped into the seaon's 70s vibe but took the look down a romantic path, full of wafting chiffon dresses, lace and rustic crochet, all perfectly chimed with her signature feminine sensibility.
The look: Summer romance
Silhouette: Long and diaphanous
Key items: Wafting maxidresses and ankle-sweeping skirts were topped with soft crochet-trimmed smock blouses or delicate lace shell tops, while an easy wrap trench and a knee-length culotte suit added a more robust feel. Plissé bustier dresses and a short lace shift were alternative silhouettes, along with barely there floor-skimming bias ruffled tiers
Colour: A delicate palette of colour-washed pales with a subtle greyed tint, teamed with white, caramel, apricot and moss green
Fabric & knit: The emphasis was on delicate fabric handles with weightless silk chiffons, plissé chiffon, silk charmeuse, lace and crochet, with rustic linen and python
Print & pattern: Delicate floral patterns and bi-colour foliage prints worked on sheers, and often combined in mismatched combinations
Details & trims: Crochet panels and lace appliqués, delicate rouleau ties, ruching and raw edges
Footwear: Flat rope sandals brought a dressed-down feel into play
Accessories: Soft wide-brimmed rounded crown hats
No 21
Easy sportswear was the hallmark of Alessandro Dell'Acqua's concise spring/summer showing, full of easy, highly wearable pieces and breezy colour.
The look: Luxe sports with a feminine twist
Silhouette: Soft and uncomplicated
Key items: Dell'Acqua tapped into the emerging trend for asymmetric hemlines with his easy skirt shapes, teamed with simple drapey tank tops or tees, or casual matching blousons. Narrow cigarette pants came with simple shell tops or a cropped, slightly flared jacket, and the designer addressed knitwear with slouchy sweaters and a cardigan dress. For evening there were wafting handkerchief hems on light-as-air silk chiffon dresses
Colour: White was the dominant colour in Dell'Aqua's palette, teamed with inky blue, black, poudre pink and a vibrant flash of flame red
Fabric & knit: The collection's easy sportswear shapes took on a luxe twist when worked in lightweight silks, silk crepes, papery cottons and bi-colour jacquards, with silk chiffons for evening, and cotton for knits
Print & pattern: Scrolling florals on dark grounds
Footwear: Flat gold woven sandals, simple strappy T-bar sandals, mules
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