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Calvin Klein
At Calvin Klein, Francisco Costa put his sculptural signature into relaxed, drop-shoulder coats and crisply panelled dresses that spoke to spring's new simplicity.
The look: Clean construction
The silhouette: Relaxed column with drop-shoulder detail
Key items: Long halter dress to with inner drawstring belt; silk dress with vertical pleating down center front; washed-silk shirt layered under leather apron belt; sculpted car coat with drop shoulder; short A-line silk shift with back panels; deep-V silk crepe dress with low tacking detail; A-line cotton canvas tunic with tailored flap pockets; fluid and tapered cropped pant in silk cupro
Colour: A natural palette of solids such as chalk, ivory, pearl, straw, vellum and midnight blue, with a brief appearance of coral and indigo shades
Fabric & knit: Washed silk, silk cupro, embossed silk twill, cotton twill, cotton voile, double-faced silk crepe, wool/silk, silk/viscose jersey, calfskin leather
Details & trims: Dropped shoulders and waistlines, racerbacks, inner drawstring belts, folded panel construction, plissé detail
Footwear: Copper anklet sandal, polished calf enclosed-heel sandal, goat enclosed heel sandal, harness sandal
Accessories: Apron belt
Ralph Lauren
Ralph Lauren trod familiar territory for spring - a Wild West homestead - turning America's original, dust-footed bohemian into a high-end city slicker in silk frills and fringed deerskin leather.
The look: Wild West couture
The silhouette: Lean and belted with fringe and flare
Key items: Fringed leather jacket; beaded leather gilet; ruffle-sleeve silk blouse; white poet-sleeve blouse; side-fringed flare pant; three-tier fringe pencil skirt; suede cavalry shirt dress with button yoke; hand-crocheted long skirt; skinny suede spat pant with flare; knitted lace henley tank dress; hand-crocheted over-the-knee dress; white lace sweater with ruffled shoulders; white linen shirt with vintage men's club collar; washed crepe de chine tapered-leg jumpsuit; distressed jean with silver embroidery; blue tablecloth-check embroidered coat with lace and cutaway detail; platinum tulle beaded dress with fringe; washed plaid broadcloth shirt; long georgette dress with ruffle detail
Colour: A thematic palette of cream, white, deerskin and saddle brown, and black, with more colourful appearances of faded and French blues, and soft pink and platinum tones in eveningwear
Fabric & knit: Silk, cotton voile, leather, suede, crepe de chine, canvas, linen, lace, crochet, georgette, cotton broadcloth, piqué jacquard
Print & pattern: Washed plaid, tablecloth check
Details & trims: Long fringe, silver embroidery, lace piping
Footwear: Python huarache laced sandal, raw edge sandal with woven chain heel, braided fringe sandal, Western-detail shoe bootie, python peep-toe sandal, brown/silver roper boot
The silhouette: Relaxed column with drop-shoulder detail
Key items: Long halter dress to with inner drawstring belt; silk dress with vertical pleating down center front; washed-silk shirt layered under leather apron belt; sculpted car coat with drop shoulder; short A-line silk shift with back panels; deep-V silk crepe dress with low tacking detail; A-line cotton canvas tunic with tailored flap pockets; fluid and tapered cropped pant in silk cupro
Colour: A natural palette of solids such as chalk, ivory, pearl, straw, vellum and midnight blue, with a brief appearance of coral and indigo shades
Fabric & knit: Washed silk, silk cupro, embossed silk twill, cotton twill, cotton voile, double-faced silk crepe, wool/silk, silk/viscose jersey, calfskin leather
Details & trims: Dropped shoulders and waistlines, racerbacks, inner drawstring belts, folded panel construction, plissé detail
Footwear: Copper anklet sandal, polished calf enclosed-heel sandal, goat enclosed heel sandal, harness sandal
Accessories: Apron belt
Ralph Lauren
Ralph Lauren trod familiar territory for spring - a Wild West homestead - turning America's original, dust-footed bohemian into a high-end city slicker in silk frills and fringed deerskin leather.
The look: Wild West couture
The silhouette: Lean and belted with fringe and flare
Key items: Fringed leather jacket; beaded leather gilet; ruffle-sleeve silk blouse; white poet-sleeve blouse; side-fringed flare pant; three-tier fringe pencil skirt; suede cavalry shirt dress with button yoke; hand-crocheted long skirt; skinny suede spat pant with flare; knitted lace henley tank dress; hand-crocheted over-the-knee dress; white lace sweater with ruffled shoulders; white linen shirt with vintage men's club collar; washed crepe de chine tapered-leg jumpsuit; distressed jean with silver embroidery; blue tablecloth-check embroidered coat with lace and cutaway detail; platinum tulle beaded dress with fringe; washed plaid broadcloth shirt; long georgette dress with ruffle detail
Colour: A thematic palette of cream, white, deerskin and saddle brown, and black, with more colourful appearances of faded and French blues, and soft pink and platinum tones in eveningwear
Fabric & knit: Silk, cotton voile, leather, suede, crepe de chine, canvas, linen, lace, crochet, georgette, cotton broadcloth, piqué jacquard
Print & pattern: Washed plaid, tablecloth check
Details & trims: Long fringe, silver embroidery, lace piping
Footwear: Python huarache laced sandal, raw edge sandal with woven chain heel, braided fringe sandal, Western-detail shoe bootie, python peep-toe sandal, brown/silver roper boot
Accessories: Silver buckle Western belt, "Antique Navajo rug" crossbody bag, leather tote with braiding, steerhead leather back, alligator clutch with crystal-encrusted silver steerhead, long silver leather necklace with braiding, Western choker necklace
Oscar de la Renta
Oscar de la Renta was full of the joys of spring, with a palette of sugared pales and blooming floral details, bringing girlish gingham and candy stripes to his uptown set.
The look: Springtime garden party
The silhouette: Neat and knee-length for day, floor-length and fabulous for night
Key items: The all-in-one was the hot new item for the season, arriving with wide flared legs and either a ruffled tank or a strappy dungaree top. All the usual signature pieces were also in evidence - knee-length pencil-skirt suits, slim-fitting sheath dresses, wide palazzo pants, flare-skirted sundresses, tulip skirts, neat waist-length cardigans and boxy edge-to-edge jackets worn open. For evening, there were short cocktail options including an emerald-green silk dress with pleated skirt, or a bandeau with wide circle-cut swansdown skirt and halter-top bodice, alongside the full-skirted gowns with ruched, ruffled or cloud-like layers of tulle
Colour: Champagne gold, shell pink, white, coral red, mint and emerald greens, jonquil yellow, a pop of electric blue, and plenty of classic black and white
Fabric & knit: Summer tweeds in a variety of weights, linen, crochet knits, cloqué, chiffon, printed silk, cotton, tulle, silk taffeta, embroidered lace, swansdown
Print & pattern: Candy stripes in pink, green or black, with white, small-scale pink gingham, painterly windowpane checks, stencilled florals on white ground, coloured tie-dye stripes on white, polka dots on chiffon
Details & trims: Shredded chiffon flower head embroideries, ribbon-threaded knits, gingham lapels, laser-scored floral pattern, broderie ruffle trims, moulded rose popper fastenings, twinkling micro beading
Footwear: Strappy croc-leather sandals with chain detail, minimal sandals with wide ankle strap, peep-toe courts with contrast-coloured forepart platform, flat pumps with contrast-coloured toe cap
Accessories: Costume jewellery, ladylike clutch bags, open-top flat-bottomed tote bag in ostrich leather, pinked and punched two-tone leather saddle belts, leather belts with chain insert, organza gloves
Oscar de la Renta
Oscar de la Renta was full of the joys of spring, with a palette of sugared pales and blooming floral details, bringing girlish gingham and candy stripes to his uptown set.
The look: Springtime garden party
The silhouette: Neat and knee-length for day, floor-length and fabulous for night
Key items: The all-in-one was the hot new item for the season, arriving with wide flared legs and either a ruffled tank or a strappy dungaree top. All the usual signature pieces were also in evidence - knee-length pencil-skirt suits, slim-fitting sheath dresses, wide palazzo pants, flare-skirted sundresses, tulip skirts, neat waist-length cardigans and boxy edge-to-edge jackets worn open. For evening, there were short cocktail options including an emerald-green silk dress with pleated skirt, or a bandeau with wide circle-cut swansdown skirt and halter-top bodice, alongside the full-skirted gowns with ruched, ruffled or cloud-like layers of tulle
Colour: Champagne gold, shell pink, white, coral red, mint and emerald greens, jonquil yellow, a pop of electric blue, and plenty of classic black and white
Fabric & knit: Summer tweeds in a variety of weights, linen, crochet knits, cloqué, chiffon, printed silk, cotton, tulle, silk taffeta, embroidered lace, swansdown
Print & pattern: Candy stripes in pink, green or black, with white, small-scale pink gingham, painterly windowpane checks, stencilled florals on white ground, coloured tie-dye stripes on white, polka dots on chiffon
Details & trims: Shredded chiffon flower head embroideries, ribbon-threaded knits, gingham lapels, laser-scored floral pattern, broderie ruffle trims, moulded rose popper fastenings, twinkling micro beading
Footwear: Strappy croc-leather sandals with chain detail, minimal sandals with wide ankle strap, peep-toe courts with contrast-coloured forepart platform, flat pumps with contrast-coloured toe cap
Accessories: Costume jewellery, ladylike clutch bags, open-top flat-bottomed tote bag in ostrich leather, pinked and punched two-tone leather saddle belts, leather belts with chain insert, organza gloves
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