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Proenza Schouler
Proenza Schouler went soft and ladylike for spring, but not without a lot of heat. Electric pink lace revved up polished, painterly tweeds in an especially refined spring collection.
"We wanted to do something without specific references this season, taking ideas of femininity - like lingerie - and making them our own, to do something really polished and a lot softer," co-designer Jack McCullough told WGSN.The look: Lady luxe
The silhouette: A-line or narrow drop-waists
Key items: Boxy tweed jacket with peaked shoulder and contour piping; shibori-dyed silk pencil skirt flecked with contrast colour; blouse in silk chiffon with plissé detail in contrast colour; gauzy drop-waist silk shibori dress; alligator utility coat in salmon; terry tweed jacket with drop gathered hem; relaxed and boxy black alligator coat; belted A-line tweed dress with bra showing; canvas full trouser; silk shibori dress with trailing contrast-black chiffon; white chiffon slip dress with contrast seaming/ruffles/bra in black and lime; columnar embroidered "hologram" dress to mid-calf; pencil skirt with neon pink silk guipure over black
Colour: The show opened with natural ivory and washed pastels of apricot, lilac and salmon, and occasional splashes of black and lavender. True pink made a strong statement, followed by lime green and acid shades of pink, yellow and orange
Fabric & knit: Silk, chiffon, silk twill, terry tweed, alligator, silk guipure lace, silk tweed, canvas twill
Print & pattern: Shibori and tie-dye techniques yielded flecked and precise painterly patterns
Detail & trims: Contour seams and piping, exposed bra detail and ruffles
Footwear: Ladylike pointed court shoes, some with contrast toes, flat leather sandals with toe loop
Accessories: Breast-plate necklaces decorated with cabochon stones and stylised owls or beetles, low-slung skinny leather belts, sling bags carried by hand, collection-coloured triple-compartment handbags with short shoulder strap and trimmed in tan leather, shrunken aviators with black lenses
Michael Kors
Michael Kors' uptown girls went AWOL this season, swapping his signature brand of glamorous luxury for the simpler life.
The look: Summer in the country
Silhouette: Relaxed unstructured layers
Key items: Forget structured dressing, this collection was all about the long maxidress, ankle-skimming skirts, slouchy masculine pants and throw-on knit pieces. Tailoring came in the form of the shrug-on boyfriend blazer, tethered with a simple tan leather belt, or in a classic leather trenchcoat, while multi-ruffled skirts brought an unexpected touch of femininity. Oversized sweaterdresses, cropped marled tops and hip-slung sarong wraps added to the louche, relaxed feel. And for evening on the deck, simple columnar draped dresses, slashed to the thigh or with high-low hemlines, all in vivid brights
Colour: Kors tapped into the season’s overriding trend for a muted palette punctuated by brights. Think taupe, sand and white with clean sharp accents of grass green and yellow, forget-me-not blue, and a flash of purple, ink blue and vivid rose pink
Fabric & knit: Simple silhouettes demand simple fabrics, with linen and cotton, fluid jersey, slinky viscose, leather, cashmere knits, marled jersey knits, popcorn-style knits, satin charmeuse, summer tweeds
Footwear: Flat platform-unit leather sandals, simple strappy flat sandals, thong sandal boots, all in shades of tan or brown
Accessories: Ultra-flat cross-body leather bags, chunky socks, fisherman's hats, webbing waist-cincher belts, simple leather belts, and not a pair of designer sunglasses in sight
Reed Krakoff
A strong collection of urban tribal looks from Reed Krakoff, who gave us a modernist interpretation of the perennial ethnic mood.
The look: Urban tribes
Silhouette: Sparse, angular and graphic
Key items: Short boxy pleat skirts and simple T-shaped dresses sat side-by-side with fluid maxiskirts and slouchy mannich pantsuits. Wrapping and asymmetric details highlighted simple shifts and apron wrap skirts, teamed with mesh tops or wide sheer shirts. For PM dressing think simple columnar jersey dresses maybe falling from a halterneckline or glittering gold sequin knit as a skimpy wrap dress
Colour: Sharp white contrasted with warm terracotta and scorched brick shapes. Palest jonquil yellow, buttermilk, cornflower and ultramarine worked as strong accent colours with a flash of glittering gold
Fabric & knit: Summer tweeds, mesh, georgette, nylon, leather, polished cotton, organza, chunky knits, knitted sequins
Print & pattern: Simple square brushstroke motifs worked as painterly stripes or as broader, more engineered placements on a white ground
Details & trims: Apron-like wrap miniskirts, wraps, contrast panel details
Footwear: Flat thong sandals, fishskin sandal boots with multi rouleau straps, fringed sandals
Accessories: Clutch purses, colour-blocked attaché case bags, double wrap belts, simple headbands, rouleau leather bangles, coiled leather necklaces
3.1 Phillip Lim
Taking a cue from modern sculptor Constantin Brancusi, Phillip Lim sent out fancifully textured clothes that balanced strong, layered shapes with a feminine sensibility.
The look: Pieced-together polish
The silhouette: Layered but lean, with a natural waist
Key items: "Tabard" halter shirt as anchor layer; apron panelled skirt; tailored silk jacket with angled side vents; fluid cuffed silk trouser; nude matt-paillette T-shirt with sheer back; nude dress overlaid with black patterned lace; tapered silk pant with embroidered dots; sheer white trench with black piping; laser-etched lambskin shorts with rope drawstring; lambskin matt-paillette shift with rhinestone-encrusted sheer sleeves
Colour: Soft shades of blush, camel, oat, nude, tan, birch, taupe, ivory and black set a sophisticated tone, while sky blue appeared in a few bright daywear looks
Fabric & knit: Silk, twill, lambskin, cotton, cashmere, lace, jacquard and organza
Detail & trims: Dot embroidery, crystal embroidery
Footwear: Platform heel, loafer, bootie, ankle-strap heel, slip-through sandal, platform heel
Accessories: Tassel belt, lambskin neck scarf, boxy "camera" bag, clutch
Key items: "Tabard" halter shirt as anchor layer; apron panelled skirt; tailored silk jacket with angled side vents; fluid cuffed silk trouser; nude matt-paillette T-shirt with sheer back; nude dress overlaid with black patterned lace; tapered silk pant with embroidered dots; sheer white trench with black piping; laser-etched lambskin shorts with rope drawstring; lambskin matt-paillette shift with rhinestone-encrusted sheer sleeves
Colour: Soft shades of blush, camel, oat, nude, tan, birch, taupe, ivory and black set a sophisticated tone, while sky blue appeared in a few bright daywear looks
Fabric & knit: Silk, twill, lambskin, cotton, cashmere, lace, jacquard and organza
Detail & trims: Dot embroidery, crystal embroidery
Footwear: Platform heel, loafer, bootie, ankle-strap heel, slip-through sandal, platform heel
Accessories: Tassel belt, lambskin neck scarf, boxy "camera" bag, clutch
Marchesa
It was a mob scene at Marchesa, but looking past the editors and celebrities, one could spy fantastical gowns with a hint of antiquity, and lace harem pants that are sure to end up on a red carpet.
The look: Ancient royalty
The silhouette: Fantastically curved, pointed, draped and flared
Key items: Hand-painted floral "oyster" dress with full skirt; silk lace jumpsuit; ultra suede laser-cut dress with sculpted sleeve detail; silk tulle strapless with "jade"-embroidered peplum; cropped black silk jacket; one-shoulder satin georgette dress with embroidered cascade shoulder and waist
Colour: Glamorous, subdued combinations of pearl, ebony, mint, rose, midnight blue, deep plum and smoke
Fabric & knit: Chiffon, tulle, georgette, lace and organza
Print & pattern: Hand-painted florals, laser-cut edging
Detail & trims: Beaded embroidery
Accessories: Harness in cascading jet-black beads
Anna Sui
Anna Sui took a familiar trip to the American West, showing frilled and feathered bohemians to the slow-dream sounds of Neil Young.
The look: High-end hippy
The silhouette: Drop-waist, long-length with trailing hems
Key items: Long-length ruffled floral dress; patchwork crochet cardigan sweater; fringed poncho; antique-silver-beaded white tank; smock shirt with gathered sleeve and neckline; apron dress with ruffled pockets; denim shirt and ruffled denim short; printed legging; patchwork crochet short-short; crochet and silk flare bellbottom; fringed blanket dress; drawstring parka with gathered sleeve; black crochet minidress with long fringe; blouse with plissé-detail sleeve; wispy ruffled vintage pyjama dress
Colour: Humble tones of cream, blush pink, washed denim blues, merlot, navy and lots of black
Fabric & knit: Silk, chiffon, cotton, cotton crochet, denim and suede
Print & pattern: Spliced pattern mixes and patchworks of all-over micro prints including paisleys, floral repeats, sprigged florals, plaid checks and pin dots. Placement paisleys, border prints, chintzy gypsy florals on sky-blue grounds, geometrics and grid patterns, quilting patterns
Detail & trims: Silver beading, fringing, lace inserts, scalloped lace edging, ruffles, crochet trims, contrast buttoned plackets, dip-dyed feather skirts, crochet pompoms
Footwear: Work boots with wide toplines in dusted leathers, ghillie-laced cork platform sandals with mid-height block heel, low-heeled triple-strap sandals worn with socks, buckled flat sandals, tall suede slouch boots, tall leather boots with ski-hook lacings
Accessories: Feather necklaces, bead-fringed chokers, long beaded lariats decorated with feathers, Cherokee headdresses, crocheted beanies, long-strapped suede shoulder bags decorated with feathers, tasselled rope belts, wire-framed John Lennon sungalsses
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