7:42 AM
admin
Dries Van Noten
Dries Van Noten loves to mix the masculine with the feminine, but this time femininity came out on top, with a series of silky kimono dresses delicately tinted in pastel degradés and painted with large Chinese blooms.
"This collection is about 40s elegance, 90s conceptual fashion and the quirky feeling of the 70s. The iconic item is really the white shirt. I think I made that quite clear by using white poplin shirts everywhere - on top of pants or wrapped as skirts. I also referenced Chinese porcelain for the prints, which we bleached or faded out," Dries Van Noten told WGSN.The look: Signature masculine/feminine interplay
Silhouette: Oversized proportions
Key items: Oversized masculine items such as wide-leg slacks and jeans, extra-large shirts and longline blazers or overblown coats and jackets; breezy kimono dresses or tunics, the latter worn over the wide-leg pants; softly belted sleeveless tailored jackets with signature wrap-over closures; poplin shirts worn with high-waisted midi-length pencil skirts or transposed into skirts with the sleeves wrapped around the waist; chiffon kaftan-like caped tops or sheath-dress overlays worn over straight-cut shirtdresses; DB jackets with satin shawl lapels
Colour: Delicately shaded pastel degradés - pink/purple, beige/ash grey, nude/yellow or peach/apple green; white, lemon, steely blue-grey, navy, ice blue, champagne neutrals and iridescent metallics
Fabric & knit: Silk, satin, crumpled papery cottons, poplin, linen, silk chiffon, bleached denim, silver waffle piqué
Print & pattern: Florals inspired by Chinese porcelain - placement blooms and budding stems on degradé grounds, ghosted and bleached-out floral prints
Details & trims: Dropped sleeves, sheer overlays, iridescent sequins and gold convex disc-shaped paillettes, denim sleeves on navy wrap jacket, satin lapels and buttons
Footwear: Signature shoe shape with wide heel and thin platform - two-strap mules, Mary Janes, closed-toe sling-backs or multi-strap sandals in dusted suedes, printed silk or iridescent metallics
Accessories: Extra-long thin belts, sunglasses with chunky resin frames, a marabou stole, simple clutch bags in washed leather or iridescent metallics
Guy Laroche
Designer Marcel Marongiu presented a well-rounded if unadventurous spring/summer collection for Guy Laroche, working several of the season's key pieces and colour directions into his subtly flavoured military-inspired look.
The look: Low-key military
Silhouette: Relaxed and unstructured, combining soft drape with easy boxy shapes
Key items: The military trench came with sleeveless detailing, a casual look to team with highrise easy-cut cropped pants, soft asymmetric draped tunic tops and louche all-in-ones. Dresses were key to the collections, coming with deep V-wrap necklines or asymmetric draped details and as simple fit-and-flare shifts. Shorts and above-knee buttoned pencil skirts were the alternative bottomweights, worked with second-skin jersey tees and tops
Colour: Cool neutral base colours - sand, taupe, ivory and honey - contrasted with navy, teal and aquas, as well as ultramarine, marigold and sherbet with a flash of black
Fabric & knit: Sheers as overlays or as print grounds, summer suede, jersey, sequins and stretch wovens
Print & pattern: A regular repeat honeycomb-style mosaic print contrasted with a dramatic painterly abstract all-over in tones of blue or orange
Details & trims: Asymmetric draped panels, sash-tie waists, draping
Footwear: High vampy ankle-strap platforms
Accessories: Boxy totes, slouchy hobos, double-buckle military leather belts
Rue du Mail
Martine Sitbon's signature is to fuse femininity with a rock 'n' roll edge, and for summer this transpired through the delicate tulle overlays in sparky neon colours and sexy slashed ribbon dresses.
"I started with the colour range. I wanted to work with primary colours and neon - something electric. The other key point was that it had to be light, so all the draped dresses and construction was done in tulle on top of silk or lamé T-shirt shapes," Martine Sitbon told WGSN.
The look: Delicate femininity
Silhouette: Form-fitted
Key items: A variety of fitted sheath dresses with pleated, ruched or embroidered tulle overlays; spaghetti-srapped cocktail dresses with frilly bibs or large coiled ruffles placed at the neck; neat pencil skirts; body-con slashed-ribbon dresses; tailored top and dress with string-lacing details at the back, sides and a plunging neckline; elongated sleeveless tux jackets worn with straight-leg pants or the shift dresses; a flare-skirted soft-belted mac or sleeveless options in jacket lengths
Colour: Neon red and yellow, vivid parrot green, electric cobalt blue, saffron, nude, chestnut brown, black
Fabric & knit: Tulle, crepe, stretch cotton and silk, lurex-woven sheers, silk, lamé
Print & pattern: Diffused and blurred checks
Details & trims: Pin-tucked, ruched or pleated tulle, tufted feather-like fringing, slashed ribbons; ruffled bibs; double-layer revers, sculpted and coiled ruffles
Footwear: Mary Janes in either brown leather or red satin
Rochas
"The quiet spirit of Sweden pervades the collection, and I find in the modesty of certain Swedish people the key to an elegance which is very composed and severe, yet soft and sweet at the same time," Marco Zanini told WGSN.
The look: Chic hausfrau
Silhouette: Modest elongated lengths with the occasional burst of crinoline-shaped volume
Key items: Midi-length straight-cut sheath skirts or midi-cropped pants worn with tailored tanks with flared peplum; bell-skirted crinoline dresses; loose pyjama sets of cropped pants and long shirt; unstructured house coats; silk-panelled button-through cardigans; dropped-waist full-skirted dresses; midi-length dirndls and buttoned-to-the-neck silk shirts. For the finale, a series of languid spaghetti-strapped slip-dresses and bias-cut gowns
Colour: Strong royal blue, dark ochre, chestnut brown and a splash of chartreuse against white, antique cream, silvery dove grey, midnight blue and black
Fabric & knit: Silk was the core fabric, arriving in varieties such as silk satin, taffeta, hand-punched shantung and a lightweight woven raw silk. Chiffon, slubby linen weaves, crinkled treated cotton, loose hand knits, knitted sheers, suede
Print & pattern: The exclusive prints were a collaboration with Swedish folk artist Slotts Barbro and featured rows of houses, flag-waving knights on horseback and poetic phrases from French writer Françoise Sagan. A three-bud peony floral was taken from the early 20th century Bucol archive. Tea-stained grounds and dye effects
Details & trims: Silk-covered buttons, spaghetti straps, crinoline skirt shaping
Footwear: Mid-heel lace-up shoes or sling-back peep toes, flat mannish oxfords in polished black leather
Accessories: Handmade silk peony brooches made by LeMarié, printed silk headscarves, flat shoppers, single-strap framed handbags, round tortoiseshell-framed sunglasses
Gareth Pugh
The renegade British designer opted to show his spring/summer collection in a film format directed by Ruth Hogben, and featuring model Kristen McMenamy. The film will then be launched on Nick Knight's Showstudio.com and made accessible to a global audience.
"I feel with this season that I have taken a leap of faith: I was very determined to do something pure and focused... and as always a slightly subversive sense of humour," Pugh declared in his press release.
The look: Armoured
Silhouette: Sculpted body-con
Key items: Samurai-like armoured body-con pieces worked alongside sculpted asymmetric wrap jackets with strict peplums and strongly tailored shoulderlines. There were McQueen-like influences at play too in the fit-and-flare silver dresses or the op-art dresses with bunched asymmetric hems and the frock coats layered over narrow leggings or shorts
Colour: Marble grey and alabaster with graphic black and silver
Fabric & knit: Pugh likes to push the boundaries, and he used silicone-coated jersey on Neoprene and rubberised PVC on stretch jersey to construct his sculpted shapes. He also used aluminium-coated nylons and hand-cut reflective silver
Print & pattern: A graphic Bridget Riley-style op-art print in graphic black and white
Footwear: Black platform shoe boots with cutout fronts and zippers
Accessories: Simple silver quilted bags
Damir Doma
Only in his second season, Damir Doma is still shaping his womenswear offer, trying hard to delineate it from his original menswear line. "The last thing I want is a unisex brand," said the designer. This exploration of femininity led him to focus on three key points - exposed skin, veiled sheers and the waist.
"I think the whole collection was about femininity, which is something I started last season but takes time to evolve. Construction was focused around the waist and it all sat much closer to the body than the things I have done before," Damir Doma told WGSN.
The look: Soft minimalism
Silhouette: Signature nomadic draping against sharp angular tailoring
Key items: Bias-cut columnar dresses that twist around the body; asymmetrically draped and twisted dhoti pants; form-fitted sheer maxidresses and midi-length skirts; cropped jersey tops worn with high-waisted mini skirts or tapered pants drawn tight at the ankle; batwing-sleeved kimono jackets with blouson drape at the back; blanket wraps and billowing robe coats. The more fluid and draped pieces were offset with elongated tailored jackets (sometimes sleeveless), or abbreviated tailored jackets with pointed/dipping closures. A wide-cut wrap-over samurai-style jacket was also a notable piece
Colour: The core palette of flaxen neutrals, cool greys and black was lifted with the use of a bright yellow-orange inspired by the robes of Buddhist monks. Occasional hints of bitter chocolate brown and dark khaki also appeared
Fabric & knit: Cotton drill, jersey, woven blanket wools, textured silk jacquard, silk mesh sheers, watery satin
Print & pattern: A dappled grey degradé effect
Details & trims: Caped backs left to fly loose, back cowl drapes, knotted and wrapped sash waists, open fold detail at the back of tailored jackets, asymmetric drapes pulled to one side, jingling metal rings
Footwear: Heeled shooties, sling-backs and peep-toe flats all featuring a wide cross-leather construction, sometimes with a knotted detail
Accessories: Super-wide belts with double buckle, ribbed bracelets and cuffs
Anne Valérie Hash
Anne Valérie Hash has gone from strength to strength since showing on the RTW runways rather than on the couture schedule, and for spring/summer she honed her particular brand of poetic romanticism with a quietly beautiful collection full of weightless femininity.
The look: Poetically feminine
Silhouette: Soft and caressing with lightweight millefeuille layering
Key items: The soft pant was a key item within the look, but it acted as a soft grounding force for gently ruched and gathered tops, simple edge-to-edge shrug-on jackets and ruffled tees. Dresses were as light as air, lapping the body in ethereal smoke-like layers or falling into high-low hems from an asymmetric shoulderline, while millefeuille sheers layers were transposed into short tutu skirts
Colour: A palette of light-saturated colours help evoke the weightless mood, with smoke greys, sun-kissed peachy tints, poudre pinks and duck-egg blue grounded with black and a flash of malachite green
Fabric & knit: Layers of mousseline, georgette, washed silks and cotton, teamed with washed leather, metallic-yarn crochet and tarnished metallic tissues
Details & trims: Inside-out seam details
Footwear: High strappy sandals with deep wooden platforms
Accessories: Braces (US: suspenders)
Posted in: 
0 comments:
Post a Comment