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Diane von Furstenberg
Citing the early-20th-century pioneer of modern dance Isadora Duncan as her inspiration, Diane von Furstenberg gave her sun-kissed spring collection a sense of movement through drape and bold graphic prints.
"It all started when we took our first walk together through Paris to see the Isadora Duncan show," said the veteran designer as she introduced WGSN to her new creative director, Yvan Mispelaere.
The look: Resort fantasy
The silhouette: Relaxed and draped
Key items: Linen culottes; over-long Bermuda shorts in silk toile; square halter shirt in silk crepe; high-waist hotpant; rolled sleeve plain trench; fitted dress in black; pleated and cropped relaxed trouser; purple silk-jersey hooded wrap dress with racerback, low V wrap blouse; silk "sarong"’ draped pant; square top with trailing back in crepe de chine; fitted blazer
Colour: Graphic black and white, strong tobacco base, camel and khaki tones, and bold mixes of lime green, sunburst blue, ocean blue, indigo, terracotta, purple, violet, yellow, rose, and brick red with gold accents
Fabric & knit: Silk jersey, silk toile, linen, crepe de chine, silk georgette, gold silk lamé, chiffon, silk gauze
Print & pattern: A strong emphasis on graphic patterns including an all-over print jigsaw in two scales, a bold filigree print, broken abstracts, a stylised wave print, geometric border prints, stylised animalia, cloud print, and a cartoonish trompe l'oeil ruffle
Details & trims: Gold lamé embroidery
Footwear: Leather sandals with connected construction, ghillie-laced sandals, minimal sandals with leather ankle wraps
Accessories: Minimal leather waist-belt bags, shoulder bags, jigsaw-print woven raffia holdall with rope straps, tasselled rope belts, round-framed opticals with mirrored or smoky graded lenses, gold chain-link bracelets
Derek Lam
The 70s were high on the agenda at Derek Lam, where the designer tapped into the emerging trend for longer, fuller skirt shapes and subtle fit-and-flare silhouettes.
"I drew inspiration from late-60s Berlin and that youth generation. They wanted to leave the past behind them and create something beautiful of their own, and I was really inspired by that kind of energy," the designer told WGSN.
The look: The 70s - California Dreaming
Silhouette: Waisted with flared pants and longer skirt shapes
Key items: Several highly commercial items anchored this collection, with waisted high-rise flared pant shapes, the flared trench and the longer below-knee full skirt. Knee-length shorts, tailored pantsuits and an all-in-one shorts suit added a more structured feel to the contrast of simple tee-shaped tops or the finale of long, billowing maxidresses
Colour: The palette was a muted affair of denim blue, black and white, with subtle highlights of khaki, sand, smoky grey and pale jonquil yellow
Fabric & knit: Denim was a key statement, bringing a youthful verve to a mix of summer tweed, bouclé dogtooth checks, summer suede, linen, crepe de chine, rubber-back cotton coatweights, transluscent plissé and jersey
Print & pattern: Lam followed the emerging trend for abstract prints, with splashy all-overs and a scratchy, more linear-based monochrome print in black and khaki
Details & trims: Topstitching was a key feature to help define design details; fringing on the edge of pockets; decorative stitching
Footwear: High laced-up-the-leg sandals, high platform ankle-straps or T-bars
Accessories: Double leather belts; slouchy suede hobo bags with decorative whipstitch trims; skin-effect shoulder bags
Preen
A trip to Egypt inspired the patterned pin-tucks and desert colour at Preen, which delivered tightly sculpted dresses and polished tailoring.
"We looked at Moorish architecture, the sand, the sky, and the beading is from the cloud formations," Justin Thornton told WGSN.
The look: Sculpted sex appeal
The silhouette: Tight A-line from short to long
Key items: A-line miniskirts with sculpted hip detail; slim suit pants; narrow cropped pants; sleeveless vests with skinny rounded belt; pleated skirt with sculpted flap; white blouse with diamond pin-tuck yoke detail; drop-waist black dress with drop-waist belt and paisley beading; khaki strapless over sleeveless broderie anglaise shirt; tightly pleated mid-calf skirt with yellow insert; sheer chiffon blouse
Colour: The delicate palette gently morphed through the palest sky blue, vapour grey, white and sandy neutrals, with tiny stripes of gold or coloured lurex, before ending with a monochromatic black-and-white passage
Fabric & knit: Neoprene, silk, wispy chiffon, waffle, cotton, broderie anglaise
Print & pattern: A detailed all-over Moorish tile pattern in tonal blue or black
Details & trims: Paisley beading
Footwear: Lace-up mesh shoeboots, minimal T-bar sandals in collection-matched colours
Accessories: Skinny tone-on-tone leather belts with minimal silver buckle
Behnaz Sarafpour
A touch of rustic romance from Behnaz Sarafpour, who combined subtle country looks with city tailoring.
The look: Summer in the city
Silhouette: Sarafpour embraced a new longer-line silhouette, which looked fresh and new
Key items: City essentials such as the trenchcoat, the tailored 1SB pantsuit and a long-line skirt suit were contrasted with the rustic appeal of dark-dye denim dungarees, simple utility dresses, collarless blouses and pretty fit-and-flare dresses, sporting lace tops and mid-calf skirt shapes. Knee-length walking shorts were softened when teamed with a lace shell top layered over a bandeau bra, and shirt dresses came with delicate cutwork handkerchief hems
Colour: A simple palette of white, manilla-toned neutrals, denim blue and smoke grey, highlighted with soft-washed pales as print colours
Fabric & knit: Rustic linens, cutwork, gauzy sheers with a self stripe, and breezy silks, contrasted with the classic workaday appeal of dark-dye
Print & pattern: A soft aquarelle print with graphic zebra-like motifs in a patchwork of gentle colour of a white ground
Details & trims: Cutwork trims, bow-tied necks
Footwear: Simple flat sandals with ribbon ankle ties in navy or white
Accessories: Rustic-inspired raffia bangles, tan leather belts, bow-tied sash belts
DKNY
Lagoon blues and ruffled florals brought a sense of sweet summer fun to DKNY, but worked alongside signature city separates.
The look: Girly frills balanced by "professional" tailoring
The silhouette: Tapered lengths, or swingy and short
Key items: Cropped cotton tapered pant with cotton bow belt; silk skirt with tightly tiered frills; fitted cotton blazer with tailored shoulder and peplum back; V-neck shirt dress with vertical frills from shoulder; collarless trench with black back; sleeveless trench dress; one-shoulder swimsuit with neckline ruffle; long-length silk shirt dress
Colour: Core staples of black, white, navy and dark fawn, with brighter summer shades of lagoon blue and coral
Fabric & knit: Cotton, heavy cotton twill, silk, cotton poplin, silk georgette
Print & pattern: Pencil-drawn scarf prints; ditsy floral on bright turquoise or black grounds; graphic diagonal stripes
Details & trims: Vertical, asymmetrical and tightly tiered ruffles
Footwear: Bi-colour pointed platform Mary Janes
Accessories: Heritage silk scarves; ribbon bow belts tied at the natural waistline; concertina-construction clutch bag; handheld open-top square totes
Max Azria
Max Azria called his spring 2011 collection a "vision of simplicity" for its long vertical lines and cutout detail.
The look: Graceful lines with architectural cut-away
The silhouette: Lean vertical drape with asymmetry detail
Key items: Cropped jacket in silk crepe with 3D contour seaming, long spaghetti strap dress with asymmetrical hem, washed silk satin knee-length skirt with wide saddle pocket, one-piece swimsuit with contour cut-out at thigh, perforated leather jacket with back drape detail, micromodal racerback tank, sequin dress
Colour: Ivory dominated with other soft but solid shades of tan, peach, heather grey and light taupe, as well as black
Fabric & knit: Double-faced silk crepe, silk georgette, gauze, rayon, viscose, leather, silk/cotton, textured cotton, micromodal
Details & trims: Sequins, cutout, strappy back detail
Footwear: Suede cutout bootie, ankle-wrap sandal
Accessories: Sculpted wooden bangles, slashed clutch, thin neck scarves
Key items: City essentials such as the trenchcoat, the tailored 1SB pantsuit and a long-line skirt suit were contrasted with the rustic appeal of dark-dye denim dungarees, simple utility dresses, collarless blouses and pretty fit-and-flare dresses, sporting lace tops and mid-calf skirt shapes. Knee-length walking shorts were softened when teamed with a lace shell top layered over a bandeau bra, and shirt dresses came with delicate cutwork handkerchief hems
Colour: A simple palette of white, manilla-toned neutrals, denim blue and smoke grey, highlighted with soft-washed pales as print colours
Fabric & knit: Rustic linens, cutwork, gauzy sheers with a self stripe, and breezy silks, contrasted with the classic workaday appeal of dark-dye
Print & pattern: A soft aquarelle print with graphic zebra-like motifs in a patchwork of gentle colour of a white ground
Details & trims: Cutwork trims, bow-tied necks
Footwear: Simple flat sandals with ribbon ankle ties in navy or white
Accessories: Rustic-inspired raffia bangles, tan leather belts, bow-tied sash belts
DKNY
Lagoon blues and ruffled florals brought a sense of sweet summer fun to DKNY, but worked alongside signature city separates.
The look: Girly frills balanced by "professional" tailoring
The silhouette: Tapered lengths, or swingy and short
Key items: Cropped cotton tapered pant with cotton bow belt; silk skirt with tightly tiered frills; fitted cotton blazer with tailored shoulder and peplum back; V-neck shirt dress with vertical frills from shoulder; collarless trench with black back; sleeveless trench dress; one-shoulder swimsuit with neckline ruffle; long-length silk shirt dress
Colour: Core staples of black, white, navy and dark fawn, with brighter summer shades of lagoon blue and coral
Fabric & knit: Cotton, heavy cotton twill, silk, cotton poplin, silk georgette
Print & pattern: Pencil-drawn scarf prints; ditsy floral on bright turquoise or black grounds; graphic diagonal stripes
Details & trims: Vertical, asymmetrical and tightly tiered ruffles
Footwear: Bi-colour pointed platform Mary Janes
Accessories: Heritage silk scarves; ribbon bow belts tied at the natural waistline; concertina-construction clutch bag; handheld open-top square totes
Max Azria
Max Azria called his spring 2011 collection a "vision of simplicity" for its long vertical lines and cutout detail.
The look: Graceful lines with architectural cut-away
The silhouette: Lean vertical drape with asymmetry detail
Key items: Cropped jacket in silk crepe with 3D contour seaming, long spaghetti strap dress with asymmetrical hem, washed silk satin knee-length skirt with wide saddle pocket, one-piece swimsuit with contour cut-out at thigh, perforated leather jacket with back drape detail, micromodal racerback tank, sequin dress
Colour: Ivory dominated with other soft but solid shades of tan, peach, heather grey and light taupe, as well as black
Fabric & knit: Double-faced silk crepe, silk georgette, gauze, rayon, viscose, leather, silk/cotton, textured cotton, micromodal
Details & trims: Sequins, cutout, strappy back detail
Footwear: Suede cutout bootie, ankle-wrap sandal
Accessories: Sculpted wooden bangles, slashed clutch, thin neck scarves
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