Live From... New York Fashion Week - Day 5

Rodarte

 

To the tune of 70s classics like the theme from the film Midnight Cowboy, Rodarte played with a variety of loose bohemian inspiration: California’s arts and crafts movement, Wild West cowboys and redwoods.
"The California redwood colours fit so perfectly with the idea of 70s suburbia and then I imagined a place of cowboys and the Wild West," Laura Mulleavy told WGSN.  "The silhouette became like armour and the porcelain idea came from the silhouette but it also went with wood carvings."
The look: Ad-hoc layers and sculpted collage 
The silhouette: Strong cut-out shoulders and panels, with wispy trailing hems 
Key items: Blouse with cut-out shoulder, layered skirt of plaid linen and trailing buffalo check, sculpted jacket with cut-out shoulder, ‘Croc’ embossed leather jacket, wrap skirt, suede crop top, leather and hammered sequin dress with asymmetric draping, denim blue plaid silk ‘Chinese’ top, high-waist slim pant, high-cropped wood panel print mock turtleneck in leather 
Colour: Anchor palette of taupe, white, cream, navy, caramel and walnut. Complementary shades of warm peach, rust, porcelain blue, denim blue, moss green, chartreuse and gold 
Fabric & knit: Guipure lace, silk, chiffon, cotton, linen, leather, hammered silk and gold lamé, buffalo checks, plaid 
Print & pattern: Wood panel print, croc-embossed leather, checks, navy/white stripe, blue porcelain Ming print and abstract dogstooth pattern
Details & trims: Ribbon embroidery and hammered sequins.   
Footwear: Gold metal heel with wood print, carved wood heel with embossed leather and carved wood wedge with Ming printed leather 
Accessories: Sheer white socks, hand-carved belt and hand-carved barrette

marc by Marc Jacobs

 

  There were plenty of prints and stand-out stripes at marc by Marc Jacobs, but the spring collection struck a more simple tone than usual. Always retro-inspired - this time taking several cues from the 70s - the clothes delivered straightforward colour and stripped-back, classic details.
The look: 70s pop prep 
The silhouette: For women, A-line with cap sleeves. For men, slim and relaxed. 
Key items: For women, multi-stripe jumpsuit with spaghetti straps; prim dark-yellow dress to mid-calf with gathered cap sleeve; multi-stripe 70s sweater; high-waist twill pant; twill safari jacket and short; belted wrap coat in khaki olive; oatmeal twill poncho; billowy dress with drawstring belt; side-ruched bikini bottom; halter dress with long neck tie; ruffled bikini top; gathered A-line striped skirt; boxy white top with red stripes; embroidered dot cap-sleeve blouse. For men, grey gabardine trench; grey cashmere sweater with white elbow patches; grey suiting plaid jacket and slim pant; red/blue thick-stripe polo shirt; wrinkled pinstripe pant 
Colour: Summer boardwalk classics such as lobster red, navy, cream and white, as well as dark yellow, orange, cinnamon and nutmeg. Barbie pink appeared in more playful beach-ready looks, while heather grey, khaki and olive were anchors 
Fabric & knit: For women, silk, cotton sateen, cotton twill, washed canvas, cashmere, cotton jersey, nylon, georgette, corduroy. For men, seersucker  
Print & pattern: For women, multi-stripe, color-block, floral, dot embroidery. For men, tonal plaid, multi-stripe, pinstripe 
Details & trims: Dot embroidery, crystal dots 
Footwear: For women, canvas sneaker wedge, Mary Jane lizard-print cork wedges, metallic striped wedge, and leather oxford wedge. For men, gold glitter lo-tops, suede lo-tops and suede hi-tops 
Accessories: For women, leather pouchette, leather drawstring bag, leather/raffia bag, and basket-weave equestrian cap. For men, vintage leather satchel, vintage leather tote, vintage leather "festival" bag, and washed canvas satchel

Jason Wu for TSE

 

Jason Wu's debut at TSE brought many covetable, chunky knits as well as clean tailoring, with a subtle blend of innovative textures.
The look: Luxe knits with subdued tailoring 
The silhouette: High-waist with lean tailored jackets 
Key items: Gauze-knit lace-up bra; cotton/satin long tuxedo blazer; black web-knit chiffon-lined pencil skirt; chiffon-knit slouchy pullover; pleated trouser short; high-waist pleated slim pant; strapless sweaterdress with contrast asymmetric panel; boxy grey jacket with leather binding and slim pant; wide-leg trouser; leather/linen cardigan; silk blouse with long neck tie 
Colour: A practical palette of black, white, heather grey, cream and taupe, with stylish touches of red, navy and yellow with copper trims 
Fabric & knit: Knitted chiffon, silk, linen, leather, cotton twill, cotton piqué, charmeuse, silk gauze, merino wool and cashmere 
Print & pattern: Latex digital brushstroke print 
Details & trims: Trims of dyed leather, horn, shell buttons and metal pins 
Footwear: Grey leather shoe-boots with low-cut heel case, high-heeled leather sandals with three wide velcro straps 
Accessories: Silver metal chokers, silver metal cuffs worn on both wrists, skinny leather belts, knitted cowl scarves

Karen Walker

 

A signature collection from Karen Walker, who hit the spot with her commercial mix of soft tailoring, feminine ruffles and casual, sporty separates.
The look: Summer in the city
Silhouette: Neatly feminine and unstructured
Key items: The slim-legged pant was a key anchor, teamed with simple SB blazers, drapey jackets or easy boxy smock tops. Dresses were cut to the knee with multi-ruffled detailing, full dirndl or crystal-pleat skirts, taking the feminine look to the max. Marled jersey tees, a coated parka and soft drawstring shorts brought a signature sportswear vibe into the mix 
Colour: A muted palette punctuated with flashes of summery brights, in line with emerging trends seen on the runway this week - think khaki, sand, navy and cement with accents of old gold, marigold, daffodil and cornflower 
Fabric & knit: Simple cottons, cotton lawn, linen and marled jersey contrasted with the more dressy looks of taffeta and silk faille 
Print & pattern: A heady bouquet of mixed florals, from small-scale all-overs and silhouette patterns to dramatic hydrangea motifs mixed with sweet bluebirds, and an offbeat giraffe pattern thrown into the mix 
Details & trims: Ladylike dressmaker details such as grosgrain edging, sporty drawstrings and pretty self ruffles 
Footwear: Cityscape loafers worked in high or flat profiles with bi-colour combinations, piping and tasselled trims  
Accessories: Pretty ruffled bags, printed clutch bags, wooden-framed bags, wooden pendants of birds and bird houses, contrast webbing belts with metal clasps, coloured resin cuffs and bangles, and bow-trimmed leather belts in shiny leathers or metallics 

Vera Wang
A more youthful look from Vera Wang this season, who left her signature romantic silhouettes behind in favour of something more sporty and urban.
The look: Urban sports with a subtle oriental twist 
Silhouette: Elongated, softened with manipulated tucks, ruching and drapes 
Key items: Long shorts and skinny pants helped give the collection an urban edge, teamed with ruched asymmetric hem tops or V-necked kimono-like shirts. The longer-line pencil sheath was the key dress shape, punctuated with manipulated draping at the hipm, asymmetric one-shouldered effects or all-over ruching. Elastic cased bloomer shorts brought a soft sense of volume, perfect to marry with slim zipped hooded tops. 
Colour: A simple Japonesque palette of black, white and grey with flashes of poppy red and single accents of pistachio, cerulean and blush for pretty sheer draped dresses with trailing hems at the back 
Fabric & knit: Silky chameuse and satin, crisp taffetas, gazar, lightweight sheers, brocade 
Print & pattern: Floral patterned brocade with an oriental feel 
Details & trims: Flat samuri-inspired quilting, zips, trailing hems 
Footwear: High-cut toeless shoe boots in satin
Accessories: Socks, belts with Turks head knotted detail. Wide waist-cinching belts 

Matthew Ames

Matthew Ames' clean, geometric signature showed especially well for spring 2011, which is looking to be a perfect season for sharp panelled dresses and angular handkerchief hems. 

"I added a lot of texture to fabrics, with new colour and shapes, in order to better define the style and sensibility of this woman, so there was a strong femininity," Ames told WGSN.

The look: Clean, shapely construction 
The silhouette: Relaxed A-line with boxy tops and shaped skirts 
Key items: Silk dupioni belted sleeveless coat dress with slit pockets; navy linen skirt with one-sided handkerchief hem; strapless mesh top; over-the-knee A-line skirt in striped raw silk; belted twill safari jacket; one-shoulder silk/linen mesh top wrapping at waist; criss-cross halter bandeau in georgette; silk dupioni short short; cropped georgette halter top; linen dress with high-side slit revealing short 
Colour: Natural shades such as white, ivory, beige and taupe complemented the collection's raw simplicity, while coral, turquoise, cactus, copper and curry shades added to its feminine feel 
Fabric & knit: Cotton twill, silk georgette, raw silk, silk dupioni, silk crepe, linen, cotton, silk mesh and suede 
Print & pattern: Stripes and color/texture blocking
Details & trims: Curved and angular hems, flat cargo pockets 
Accessories: Turquoise and bone cuff, curvy gold metal choker, spiked metal and coral pendant, silk georgette headscarf, metal ankle cuffs

Temperley London and Alice by Temperley
Alice Temperley looked to a medieval Guinevere for the chains and romantic frills in her mainline collection, while diffusion line Alice took a more lighthearted fairytale tone, à la Marie Antoinette.
"The Temperley woman is very ethereal and romantic," the designer told WGSN. "We wanted to make sure that this collection was getting back to what we are known for, because everything else goes into the diffusion line."
The look: Ruffles in chains 
The silhouette: Waist-conscious with frills 
Key items: In the mainline collection, tiered lace-trimmed ruffle strapless in powder pink, long high-waist leather strapless in black, one-shouldered draped silver dress, white and silver long-sleeved knit minidress 
Colour: Black, silver, grey, powder pink and white create a mix of hard and soft elements, while deep olive green and leopard brown touch on the summer safari trend 
Fabric & knit: Silk jersey, leather, silver foiled silk knit, chiffon, cotton and lace 
Print & pattern: Animal print, "King Arthur" floral architectural pattern 
Details & trims: Lace trimmed ruffles 
Accessories: Chain/leather harness necklaces and belts, round leather drawstring bag with gold accents, black leather bracelets and clutch bags with silver stud detail

G-Star

Utility looks are the G-Star signature, and for next summer they had a borrowed-from-the-boys appeal, with masculine jean cuts paired with layered jersey basics.
"It's the G-Star handwriting of three-dimensional jeans, but in combination with desert elements, resulting in a colour palette of off-white, beige and black-and-white," colection stylist Remco de Nijs told WGSN.

The look: Summer utility 
Silhouette: Masculine boyfriend cuts, occasional swing shapes 
Key items: Jeans: long-rise dhoti, wide-legged gaucho, slouchy boyfriend cut, tapered and cropped carrot leg, ruched straight-leg, bustier jumpsuit with wide-cut legs. Shorts/trousers: rolled boyfriend shorts worn low-slung, micro-length loose-fit hotpants, high-waisted shorts with flared leg, leather bloomers, cotton utility playsuit, exaggerated jodhpurs with leather cuffs, long john-style leggings with button-fly. Outerwear: tailored sleeveless biker jackets, windcheaters with dipped hem and assymetric zip closure, classic blue jean jacket with cropped sleeves, knee-length swing or flared coats, double-layered blazers. Tops: Western shirt, layered fine-gauge jersey tees and tanks 
Colour: Crisp white, eggshell pales, denim blues, navy, desert khaki 
Fabric & knit: Unwashed denim, treated and crumpled indigo denim, washed blue denim, lightweight techno fabrics, mercerised cottons, leather, twill, sateen, fine-gauge jersey 
Details & trims: Raw-edge denim, paper-bag waists, spliced knee panels, industrial zips, Aertex panels, traditional denim hardware including poppers and rivets 
Footwear: Thong sandal boots, sandal boots with cut-away heel case, peep-toe ankle-length sandal boots, lace-up oxford shoes
Accessories: Bag with leather single-shoulder harness and cross-body webbing strap, extra-long leather belts, webbing belts with multiple buckles, Legion caps and headscarves

Narciso Rodriguez
For spring, Narciso Rodriguez updated old-Hollywood glamour with long-length bias-cut dresses that boasted sheer panels and high, straight slits.
The look: Precision classic 
The silhouette: Slinky, long-length 
Key items: Fitted over-the-knee shift; silk bias halter dress with sheer panelling; bias silk skirt with long side slit; slim pencil pant in waxed linen; bandeau tank with sheer panel; contour-seamed bias dress; relaxed open-lapel linen jacket; bias dress embroidered with rose-gold sequins and overlaid with black chiffon cloqué
Colour: Black and white anchored the collection, with brief appearances of coral red, pale green, ash grey and blush 
Fabric & knit: Linen canvas, silk, silk crepe, compact wool, silk cloqué, chiffon cloqué, chiffon jacquard, waxed linen and fil coupé 
Print & pattern: Tonal floral jacquard, abstract embroidery 
Details & trims: Rose-gold sequins with black chiffon overlay

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Live From... New York Fashion Week - Day 4

Marc Jacobs

 

Serious violins may have been playing, but Marc Jacobs was clearly influenced by the sunny 70s in designing his spring collection, which showed on a gold runway, and confirmed the flared trouser and long-length skirt as key items for the season.

The look: Daytime disco 
The silhouette: Lean and fluid with a nipped-in waist  
Key items: Gathered strapless dress; belted trench; A-line leather skirt; halter jumpsuit with cargo pockets and wide belt; satin pantsuit with flared trouser; satin jeans-style cropped jacket; satin tap short; Missoni-style knit dress; babydoll coat with oversized ruffle; wide gathered skirt with pockets; sheer black jumpsuit with dot crochet; dot crochet T-shirt; fluid organza halter; long dresses in multi-wrapped and gathered silk; sequined chiffon cape gown; liquid-silk one-shoulder dress with wide belt; cream strapless with stripes of gold and silver sequins 
Colour: Anchored in a mixed palette of powder pink, fuchsia, cream and purple, with appearances of sunny orange, peach, deep camel, burgundy, gold and black 
Fabric & knit: Silk, satin, quilted satin, silk jersey with gold lurex, chiffon, organza, leather, silk crochet 
Print & pattern: Optic dot print, dot crochet 
Details & trims: Geo-tribal gold neckline hardware, lack/gold cascade sequins, gold/silver horizontal sequin stripes, palm tree in gold sequins 
Footwear: Minimal strapped platform-wedge sandals, feather-trimmed strappy sandals 
Accessories: Floral headpices; feather-corsage chokers; extra wide-brimmed sun hats; silk headscarves; quilted clutch bags; semi-circle shaped clutch bags; retro saddle-shaped shoulder bags; concertina-construction handbags with chain straps; wide sash belts decorated with overblown corsages; sculpted leather floral belts; oversized sunglasses with graded lenses

Halston

 

Marios Schwab successfully caught the DNA of Halston in his second collection for the house, perfectly pitched at the market for red-carpet glamour.
The look: Evening glamour with a 70s feel 
Silhouette: Short and draped, or long and columnar 
Key items: The collection weighed in heavily towards dresses with a wide variety of silhouettes, from a short draped bustier to 70s-inspired cape sleeves, one-shouldered columnar silhouettes and asymmetric draped effects falling from a gold halterneck. A kimono-styled jacket teamed with a cropped cigarette pant offered an alternative after-six look 
Colour: Shades of blue, white, old gold, greyed poudre pink, vivid flame red 
Fabric & knit: Fabrics were fluid, with soft georgettes, liquid jersey and satin charmeuse,  alternated with crisp matt silk and glittering all-over sequins 
Print & pattern: An explosion of splatter prints like images of a far-off galaxy 
Details & trims: Gold metal halternecks, caped sleeves, asymmetric cuts and drapes 
Footwear: Chunky sandals with padded rouleau straps and high platforms 
Accessories: Obi-style sashes, narrow gold belts

Chris Benz

The girls at Chris Benz played vintage dress-up in a spring collection influenced by the 60s and 70s.

The look: Retro brights 
The silhouette: Belted A-line
Key items: Sleevless blouse with coloured piping to ruffles; multicolour embroidered tulle "Miro" cardigan; floral-print cropped pant; high-waist knee-length layered chiffon skirt; pleated blanket skirt; cropped and boxy tweed jacket; short leather trench with contrast piping; mid-calf gathered cotton skirt; colour-block safari shirt; long full pant 
Colour: Separate palettes of sky blue, navy, white and brown; orange, pink, purple and cream; yellow, vintage green, brown and cream; as well as bright rainbow colours mixed with taupe and ivory 
Fabric & knit: Bright tweeds, silk, chiffon, cotton, canvas, leather, tulle 
Print & pattern: Upholstery florals, block dot, blanket stripes, splash dots 
Details & trims: Contrast piping, heavy yarn embroideries 
Footwear: Extreme platform slingbacks with spike heels or wedges in woven wicker, floral-print fabric or contrast piped leather 
Accessories: Tassel belt, rope belt

Alexandre Herchcovitch
Architectural silhouettes and blocked colour defined Alexandre Herchcovitch’s spring collection, inspired by painters Barnett Newman and Mark Rothko.
"We just thought about colours this season, and we wanted people to feel that each look is like a stain of paint, so the volume of the clothing and the sleeves is something that helped us get this feeling," the designer told WGSN. 
The look: Soft-painted futurism 
The silhouette: Wide, rounded shoulders over skinny frames 
Key items: Columnar minidress with gathered cap sleeve and contrast contour seams; high-waist cigarette pant; boxy top with gathered cap sleeve; silk halter shirt; shiny architectural dress with rounded top and contour seams; black diagonally gathered minidress; sculpted and gathered degradé halter jumpsuit 
Colour: Solid shades of peach, pale pink, hot pink, black, turquoise, mint green and sky blue, as well high-shine shades of taupe, violet and pale gold, often with degradé effect 
Fabric & knit: Silk, silk satin, chiffon, cotton 
Print & pattern: Splotch print, oversized-pixel colour-block pattern, degradé pattern 
Details and trims: Gathered sculpted short sleeves, contour seaming, asymmetrical gathering and a single ruffle 
Footwear: Colour-matched covered platform courts 
Accessories: Colour-matched thumb-gloves and unisex vintage-frame sunglasses in either black, sky blue, or gold with coloured lenses, the latter from a collaboration with Mykita

Donna Karan 
Donna Karan’s romantic spring collection moved from rarefied daytime elegance - via crinkled satin and bias-draped chiffon in driftwood shades - to couture-like, hand-embroidered evening gowns.

The look: Light and wispy, couture-like romance 
The silhouette: Columnar with trailing or asymmetrical details 
Key items: Crinkled stretch-satin metallic twill jacket; long bias slip dress with front slit; asymmetrical long bias scarf dress; ribbon-tie-front canvas car coat; washed-linen and silk- jacquard smock top with fullish hem; cropped silk-canvas trouser; long-slit crushed-chiffon shirt dress; tapered pyjama pant in stretch georgette/viscose; scoop-neck gown with patches of jersey twist; stretch jersey halter shirt dress; basket-weave leather jacket; long nubuck leather skirt; pale gold filigree hand-embroidered tulle evening dress 
Colour: All-natural shades such as vanilla, jute, nude, antique cream, honey, driftwood, saffron, and, finally, pale gold 
Fabric & knit: Silk charmeuse, crushed georgette, stretch satin, linen/cupro, nylon, raw silk, mousseline, silk canvas, washed linen, silk jacquard, chiffon, gauze, tulle, leather 
Print & pattern: Shadow leaf pattern in gold filigree 
Details & trims: Signature tie bows 
Footwear: Nude-coloured heeled sandals with raffia-woven platforms and wide canvas straps; rope-tie flat sandals 
Accessories: Stacked bangles, silk leaf corsages, beaded clutch bags, wooden-slat clutch bags, soft leather tie belts with running stitch detail 

Carolina Herrera
The name Carolina Herrera is synonymous with ladylike elegance and the designer didn't disappoint for spring/summer 2011, with a collection stamped throughout with old-school glamour.

The look: Ladylike elegance 
Silhouette: Elongated and waisted 
Key items: Ladylike shift dresses tied with obi-inspired sashes or trimmed with flat obi-like bows; feminine blouses with full sleeves belted over wide-pleat pants or longer-line pencil skirts, soft belted shirt jackets, minimalist belted coats, floor-sweeping full skirts, elegant columnar gowns, full-blown red carpet dresses 
Colour: A sharp graphic mix of black and white, undercut with grey, poppy red, zingy orange, orchid pink , pale jade and pine green 
Fabric & knit: Sleek satin, organza, brocade, silk tweeds, ribbed and slubbed silks, silk jacquards, silk taffeta 
Print & pattern: Botanical flower prints as single placements; floral brocades 
Details & trims: Obi-like bows, ultra-fine ties, embroideries, asymmetric necklines, multi-top stitching, embroidered birds in flight, appliqué 
Footwear: Anglular T-bars in graphic colour-blocks; peep-toe courts with flat bow trims 
Accessories: Exaggerated crowns on straw hats; wide obi belts; narrow tie belts

Michael Bastian
A strong commercial collection from Michael Bastian, who worked a nautical theme to the max with references to the Navy Seals, scuba diving and easy beach-style living.
The look: Casually nautical 
Silhouette: A contrast of looks with streamlined scuba styling combined with multi-layering  
Key items: A strong roster of key items as Bastion revamped basics through colour or with signature design details: streamlined scuba shorts and tops with contrast piping details or vivid zip pulls; long sleeved striped rugbies and knits; marled hooded tees with cotton facings; casually styled military jackets; brightly coloured kaghoules and 4 pocket jackets; nylon blousons with quilt detailing; easy chinos and soft shorts; a classic denim Western; slick 1SB and 4DB tailoring 
Colour: A masculine palette of black, grey and khaki accented with vivid pops of colour – think canary yellow, neon orange and lime 
Fabric & knit: neoprene and performance nylons contrasted with the luxe touch of suede, fine babycord, silk, alpaca, metallic finishes, micro checks and small-scale summer plaids, herringbone tweeds and washed denim 
Print & pattern: A subtle tone-on-tone leopard print 
Details & trims: Contrast piping and zip pulls, quilted panels  
Footwear: Beach boy flip-flops, classic loafers, sporty high-tops 
Accessories: Contrast webbing belts, dog tags, plaited leather belts, bow ties, knitted ties

Perry Ellis
There was a continuation of the 50s resortwear trend that swept the European runways earlier in the season, as Perry Ellis looked to the comic films of Jacques Tati for summer inspiration.
"Inspiration came from the movies of Jacques Tati," explained designer John Crocco. "Mon Oncle inspired the colour palette while Les Vacancies de Monsieur Hulot inspiring the styling. It's about the style and sensibility of the beach but still dressed up and refined."
The look: City-boy vacation 
The silhouette: Neat masculine tailoring 
Key items: Tailoring underpinned the collection, with wide-cut DB jackets paired with tailored city shorts and casual polo shirts, 2SB suits with straight-leg pants, and short-sleeved tops including crew-neck sweaters or 50s-style open-necked vacation shirts. A solid outerwear offer saw hooded windcheaters, lightweight summer macs, a ciré baseball jacket and a cotton duffel coat 
Colour: Soft candy-colours of salmon, sky, mint and tangerine worked in contrast with bright white, coral red, stone and ash grey 
Fabric & knit: Lightweight summer suitings in windowpane checks, casual plaids and candy stripes, cotton shirtings, loose-gauge knits including cables and placement Argyles, ciré, treated cotton 
Print & pattern: Candy stripes and checks 
Details & trims: Pin-tucking, contrast-edge trims, contrast collars and cuffs, shoulder zips on sweaters, extra-long sleeves on V-neck sweaters 
Footwear: Grey plimsolls with white laces 
Accessories: Skinny neck ties, white woven leather belts, casual gardener's hats

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Live From... New York Fashion Week - Day 3

Diane von Furstenberg

  

Citing the early-20th-century pioneer of modern dance Isadora Duncan as her inspiration, Diane von Furstenberg gave her sun-kissed spring collection a sense of movement through drape and bold graphic prints.
"It all started when we took our first walk together through Paris to see the Isadora Duncan show," said the veteran designer as she introduced WGSN to her new creative director, Yvan Mispelaere.
The look: Resort fantasy 
The silhouette: Relaxed and draped 
Key items: Linen culottes; over-long Bermuda shorts in silk toile; square halter shirt in silk crepe; high-waist hotpant; rolled sleeve plain trench; fitted dress in black; pleated and cropped relaxed trouser; purple silk-jersey hooded wrap dress with racerback, low V wrap blouse; silk "sarong"’ draped pant; square top with trailing back in crepe de chine; fitted blazer 
Colour: Graphic black and white, strong tobacco base, camel and khaki tones, and bold mixes of lime green, sunburst blue, ocean blue, indigo, terracotta, purple, violet, yellow, rose, and brick red with gold accents 
Fabric & knit: Silk jersey, silk toile, linen, crepe de chine, silk georgette, gold silk lamé, chiffon, silk gauze 
Print & pattern: A strong emphasis on graphic patterns including an all-over print jigsaw in two scales, a bold filigree print, broken abstracts, a stylised wave print, geometric border prints, stylised animalia, cloud print, and a cartoonish trompe l'oeil ruffle 
Details & trims: Gold lamé embroidery 
Footwear: Leather sandals with connected construction, ghillie-laced sandals, minimal sandals with leather ankle wraps 
Accessories: Minimal leather waist-belt bags, shoulder bags, jigsaw-print woven raffia holdall with rope straps, tasselled rope belts, round-framed opticals with mirrored or smoky graded lenses, gold chain-link bracelets

Derek Lam

 

The 70s were high on the agenda at Derek Lam, where the designer tapped into the emerging trend for longer, fuller skirt shapes and subtle fit-and-flare silhouettes.
"I drew inspiration from late-60s Berlin and that youth generation. They wanted to leave the past behind them and create something beautiful of their own, and I was really inspired by that kind of energy," the designer told WGSN. 
The look: The 70s - California Dreaming 
Silhouette: Waisted with flared pants and longer skirt shapes 
Key items: Several highly commercial items anchored this collection, with waisted high-rise flared pant shapes, the flared trench and the longer below-knee full skirt. Knee-length shorts, tailored pantsuits and an all-in-one shorts suit added a more structured feel to the contrast of simple tee-shaped tops or the finale of long, billowing maxidresses 
Colour: The palette was a muted affair of denim blue, black and white, with subtle highlights of khaki, sand, smoky grey and pale jonquil yellow 
Fabric & knit: Denim was a key statement, bringing a youthful verve to  a mix of summer tweed, bouclé dogtooth checks, summer suede, linen, crepe de chine, rubber-back cotton coatweights, transluscent plissé and jersey 
Print & pattern: Lam followed the emerging trend for abstract prints, with splashy all-overs and a scratchy, more linear-based monochrome print in black and khaki 
Details & trims: Topstitching was a key feature to help define design details; fringing on the edge of pockets; decorative stitching 
Footwear: High laced-up-the-leg sandals, high platform ankle-straps or T-bars 
Accessories: Double leather belts; slouchy suede hobo bags with decorative whipstitch trims; skin-effect shoulder bags

Preen

 

A trip to Egypt inspired the patterned pin-tucks and desert colour at Preen, which delivered tightly sculpted dresses and polished tailoring.
"We looked at Moorish architecture, the sand, the sky, and the beading is from the cloud formations," Justin Thornton told WGSN. 
The look: Sculpted sex appeal
The silhouette: Tight A-line from short to long  
Key items: A-line miniskirts with sculpted hip detail; slim suit pants; narrow cropped pants; sleeveless vests with skinny rounded belt; pleated skirt with sculpted flap; white blouse with diamond pin-tuck yoke detail; drop-waist black dress with drop-waist belt and paisley beading; khaki strapless over sleeveless broderie anglaise shirt; tightly pleated mid-calf skirt with yellow insert; sheer chiffon blouse 
Colour: The delicate palette gently morphed through the palest sky blue, vapour grey, white and sandy neutrals, with tiny stripes of gold or coloured lurex, before ending with a monochromatic black-and-white passage 
Fabric & knit: Neoprene, silk, wispy chiffon, waffle, cotton, broderie anglaise 
Print & pattern: A detailed all-over Moorish tile pattern in tonal blue or black 
Details & trims: Paisley beading 
Footwear: Lace-up mesh shoeboots, minimal T-bar sandals in collection-matched colours 
Accessories: Skinny tone-on-tone leather belts with minimal silver buckle

Behnaz Sarafpour 

 

A touch of rustic romance from Behnaz Sarafpour, who combined subtle country looks with city tailoring.
The look: Summer in the city 

Silhouette: Sarafpour embraced a new longer-line silhouette, which looked fresh and new 
Key items: City essentials such as the trenchcoat, the tailored 1SB pantsuit and a long-line skirt suit were contrasted with the rustic appeal of dark-dye denim dungarees, simple utility dresses, collarless blouses and pretty fit-and-flare dresses, sporting lace tops and mid-calf skirt shapes. Knee-length walking shorts were softened when teamed with a lace shell top layered over a bandeau bra, and shirt dresses came with delicate cutwork handkerchief hems 
Colour: A simple palette of white, manilla-toned neutrals, denim blue and smoke grey, highlighted with soft-washed pales as print colours 
Fabric & knit: Rustic linens, cutwork, gauzy sheers with a self stripe, and breezy silks, contrasted with the classic workaday appeal of dark-dye 
Print & pattern: A soft aquarelle print with graphic zebra-like motifs in a patchwork of gentle colour of a white ground 
Details & trims: Cutwork trims, bow-tied necks 
Footwear: Simple flat sandals with ribbon ankle ties in navy or white 
Accessories: Rustic-inspired raffia bangles, tan leather belts, bow-tied sash belts

DKNY
Lagoon blues and ruffled florals brought a sense of sweet summer fun to DKNY, but worked alongside signature city separates.
The look: Girly frills balanced by "professional" tailoring 
The silhouette: Tapered lengths, or swingy and short 
Key items: Cropped cotton tapered pant with cotton bow belt; silk skirt with tightly tiered frills; fitted cotton blazer with tailored shoulder and peplum back; V-neck shirt dress with vertical frills from shoulder; collarless trench with black back; sleeveless trench dress; one-shoulder swimsuit with neckline ruffle; long-length silk shirt dress 
Colour: Core staples of black, white, navy and dark fawn, with brighter summer shades of lagoon blue and coral 
Fabric & knit: Cotton, heavy cotton twill, silk, cotton poplin, silk georgette 
Print & pattern: Pencil-drawn scarf prints; ditsy floral on bright turquoise or black grounds; graphic diagonal stripes 
Details & trims: Vertical, asymmetrical and tightly tiered ruffles 
Footwear: Bi-colour pointed platform Mary Janes 
Accessories: Heritage silk scarves; ribbon bow belts tied at the natural waistline; concertina-construction clutch bag; handheld open-top square totes

Max Azria
Max Azria called his spring 2011 collection a "vision of simplicity" for its long vertical lines and cutout detail.
The look: Graceful lines with architectural cut-away  
The silhouette: Lean vertical drape with asymmetry detail 
Key items: Cropped jacket in silk crepe with 3D contour seaming, long spaghetti strap dress with asymmetrical hem, washed silk satin knee-length skirt with wide saddle pocket, one-piece swimsuit with contour cut-out at thigh, perforated leather jacket with back drape detail, micromodal racerback tank, sequin dress 
Colour: Ivory dominated with other soft but solid shades of tan, peach, heather grey and light taupe, as well as black 
Fabric & knit: Double-faced silk crepe, silk georgette, gauze, rayon, viscose, leather, silk/cotton, textured cotton, micromodal 
Details & trims: Sequins, cutout, strappy back detail 
Footwear: Suede cutout bootie, ankle-wrap sandal 
Accessories: Sculpted wooden bangles, slashed clutch, thin neck scarves

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Live From... New York Fashion Week - Day 2

Lacoste

 

For his final collection for Lacoste, Christophe Lemaire went back to the house's DNA in his sportswear-inspired collection with more than a touch of 80s overtones.
The look: 80s sportswear 
Silhouette: Minimal and graphic contrasted with slouchy and oversized  
Key items: Oversized duster coats and woven tracksuits contrasted with the sharp, angular lines of thigh-high miniskirts, T-shaped tops and dresses in wovens, mesh and knits, and the house’s iconic polo shirts, often reworked as dresses. Bandeau bikinis were layered under sports mesh tees 
Colour: Bold, graphic blocks of colour worked throuh a palette of black and white, chrome yellow, shades of marigold and tan, cappuccino browns with sandy neutrals, hot pink and red 
Fabric & knit: Lemaire opted for comfort, with jerseys, sports mesh, terry and velour combined with compact cottons and ultra-suede 
Print & pattern: Graphic stripes 
Details & trims: V-shaped inserts on T-shirt dresses, snap closures, drawstrings, topstitching 
Footwear: Open ankle-strap sandals; flat sports shoes in white 
Accessories: Sporty visors, slouchy hobos in leather-trimmed terry, panamas, terry wristbands, plaited leather belts, leather-trimmed rope belts

Alexander Wang

 

Alexander Wang took his tough-girl chic in a new direction for spring, with a nearly all-white collection of asymmetrical painter smocks, carpenter jackets and copper-patched dresses. The clean palette refreshed more signature moves such as sleeveless, strappy and off-shoulder shapes.
The look: Light utility
Silhouette: Fluid loose-cut shapes and midi-lengths
Key items: Satin-faced zip bomber jacket; white denim sleeveless vest with optic embroidery and copper shoulder patches; crinkle texture belted "Judo" vest; panelled long vest dress with foiled lapel; crumpled satin sleeveless tank dress with draped back and foiled detail; off-shoulder fishnet sweater with foiled belt detail; sheer "aluminum"-tint poncho; doodle-print silk T-shirt dress; overlong short with carpenter pockets; knitted crepe legging; knitted rubber raffia jacket; sleeveless trench with extended wing flaps
Colour: White was the bold new anchor shade for Wang, worked alongside mint green, cosmetique nude, irridescent silver and foil metallics
Fabric & knit: Cotton, silk, satin, washed cotton gauze, silk crepe, knitted crepe, cotton voile, organza, terry cloth, foiled Tyvek, chiffon, cotton twill, rubber raffia, washed knit linen, fishnet, silk viscose, laddered knit stitches, slubby yarns 
Print & pattern: Scribble print in washed Crayola colour on pale grounds
Details & trims: Parachute and criss-cross straps, short zips, metallic foil patches,
Footwear: Lace-up sandal boots in nubuck, closed-toe lace-up boots with covered platform, sandals with knotted straps - all in ash grey, tan or white
Accessories: Encased bike-chain necklace; gold and bronze rings by Michael Anastassiades; mini bean bag

Ohne Titel

 

The linear, colour-blocked shapes created by woodcut artist Utagawa Kuniyoshi inspired Ohne Titel's spring collection, defined by now-signature contour seaming and sporty shots of colour. 

The look: Techno soft
Silhouette: Scuba-slim tops over relaxed tapered trousers
Key items: Black neoprene bodysuits and cropped zip-through tanks used as underlayers, drop-waisted tennis dresses with pleated skirts and contour seaming, pleat-front tapered peg pants or panelled leggings, white sleeveless drape jacket, cropped zip-up cardigans
Colour: A minimal scheme made up of navy, black, white and royal blue, with the occasional flash of red or yellow
Fabric & knit: Neoprene, silk, cotton, mid-gauge knits, pleated knits
Print & pattern: Sporty colour-blocking created chevrons and stripes
Details & trims: Contrast pocket flaps with zippers, ribbonned zipper pulls 
Footwear: Colour-blocked sandal boots cut in two lengths - either above or on the ankle, minimal-strap platform sandals
Accessories: Lucite and cord necklaces, which were a collaboration with artist Tauba Auerbach, wrist cuffs and a drawstring pochette with extra long cords - part of a new handbag line launched this season 

Edun

 

Bono and Ali Hewson’s fashion brand, whose goal is to promote business in Africa, took a leap forward for spring under the newly appointed creative dirction of Sharon Wauchob. The Irish-born designer brought sophistication to the brand by spinning African inspiration into tailored, modern shapes.
"I was trying to focus on being eco and being fresh, and also not being something else," Wauchob told WGSN.
The look: Earthy, desert modern with hints of deconstruction
Silhouette: Narrow and cropped
Key items: For women, white poplin shirtdress with knotted-fringe sleeve detail; wrap skirt with wood beading; hammered silk habotai dress with peaking poplin shirt detail in back; asymmetrical cropped jacket; cotton jersey wrap halter; low-neckline long dress with small brass hoop detail; cropped kick-flare trouser; distressed/slit cotton sweater; leather shirtdress, sand poncho. For men, embroidered chambray shirt; braided linen scarf; washed black tapered linen/cotton trouser; suede knit vest; distressed/slit cotton shirt; silk pleated trouser; openwork crochet cardigan
Colour: Parachute white, indigo, ash, khaki, spice, army green, black, mud brown
Fabric & knit: Organic cotton, poplin, silk, hammered silk, linen, chambray, indigo denim, silk/wool, linen/Tencel, perforated leather
Print & pattern: Geo animal print, collage print, mix print
Details & trims: Brass hoop detail, wood beading, perforation, distress detail
Footwear: For women, rope-tied peep-toe wooden platform-wedges with polished leather vamp; low-cut slingbacks with extreme platform-wedge. For men, denim blue or black leather sneakers
Accessories: For women, short beaded necklaces and chunky bangles. For men, beaded multi-strap leather belt and bracelets; knotted scarves 

Prabal Gurung
Young designer Prabal Gurung stepped up a notch for spring, moving on his sculptural signature with shapely beading and fringe details, and adding more, sumptuous daywear.
The look: Shape shifting
Silhouette: Columnar with an emphasis on a new midi-length
Key items: Form-fitting sheath dresses cut just below the knee; washed-silk faille coat with cargo pockets and translucent inserts; tiered-pleat jersey dress with translucent panels; trench coat with curved inserts and bandage-strapping to back, stretch scuba curved-seam cropped pant; silk/viscose racerback tank; silk-duchesse skirt with iridescent latex fringe; ivory/black washed-silk faille tuxedo jacket; stretch scuba dress with sculptural play and asymmetrical hem; side-draped halter blouse; bustier dress with sculpted tech mesh; racerback gown with sheer contour inserts
Colour: An opening palette of poppy red, saffron and turquoise gave way to a mid-section of cool pales including white, ivory, pale silver, nude and washed coral. Black punctuated the collcetion
Fabric & knit: Cashmere, silk faille, linen/viscose jersey, stretch neoprene, silk duchesse, technical mesh, silk crepe, chiffon, tulle
Print & pattern: Sporty colour-blocking; a placement floral with spidery tendrils in washed coral on a white ground
Details & trims: Shredded rubberised fil coupé, latex fringe, plastic paillettes and crystals, sculptural appliqué, chiffon inserts
Footwear: Black, white, nude and orange multi-strap sandals
Accessories: Colour-coordinated skinny waist belts 

Philosophy di Alberta Ferretti 
A vibrant and eclectic collection from Philosophy with the emphasis on vivid colour and pattern mixes. 
The look: Retro oriental resort 

Silhouette: Short, sharp and clean, with resort-style separates and updated cheongsam-inspired shapes  
Key items: Classic cheongsam styling on coloured flirty dresses and easy shirt-jacket shapes, combined with soft cropped pants to complete the oriental mood. Halterneck tops, playsuits and dresses, flirty tap-shorts and cropped tops had a high-summer feel, while a single classically styled trenchcoat offered a change of pace 
Colour: A rainbow of vivid brights gave the collection an uplifting feel, with vivid mandarin, daffodil yellow, ultramarine blues, poppy and purple all offset with a single shot of sand-coloured neutral  
Fabric & knit: Satin,  silks, jersey and cotton 
Print & pattern: A mad-cap mix of conrasting prints from traditional oriental all-overs to a kitsch face print, all mixed together in clashing combinations 
Details & trims: Oriental-inpired details included contrast piping, Chinese frogging and coordinating embroidery placements 
Footwear: High platform sandals in print or vivid satin. Printed knee-length boots 
Accessories: Satin rouleau belts, coolie hats, printed bags


Z Spoke by Zac Posen
With the runway debut of his diffusion line, Zac Posen tapped into key spring trends: suiting with a 70s flare, boudoir elements and a true mix of colour and print.
The look: Sassy, city-girl separates
Silhouette: Fitted blazers, natural-waist dresses and slim trousers with a subtle flare 
Key items: Red double-knit jersey coat with black leather band, high-waist cropped cotton pant, printed silk fitted blazer, denim pant suit, crochet "lingerie" dress with clipped flounce, yellow plaid romper with broderie anglaise trim, swing dress with bra-like overlay 
Colour: Poppy red, Swedish blue, club green, flan yellow, indigo, black 
Fabric & knit: Double- knit jersey, silk, denim, cotton, broderie anglaise, stretch crepe, corded voile, corded jacquard, jersey 
Print & pattern: Light plaid, animal print, pineapple print, fruit- cocktail print, flocked grape print, strawberry print, cherry print, dancing ladies print. Crochet pattern 
Details & trims: Contrast "tuxedo" stripe, ruffles 
Footwear: From a collaboration with Steve Madden, a platform sandal in foil green or black, a vintage platform pump with flat front bow and contrast heel, and an open-toe lace-up heel bootie 
Accessories: Cat-eye sunglasses, geometric necklaces, geometric bag shapes with hard handles  

Jill Stuart

Jill Stuart was in feminine mode for spring/summer, with an overtly pretty collection compounded with delicate fabrics and embroideries.
"I wanted to create the quintessential Jill Stuart girl, with beautiful embellishments, embroideries and floral prints, especially the new-length skirt with floral embroidery," Stuart told WGSN. 
The look: Romantically feminine 
Silhouette: Waisted silhouettes balanced by new longer skirt lengths  
Key items: The dress was a strong feature of this collection, coming with waist emphasis and soft full skirts, or as a ruffle-trimmed smock. Shorts were wide-cut and exaggerated, teamed with feminine blouses and shell tops, while skirts were either thigh-high or cut to below the knee. Tailored pants suits and boxy cardigan- jackets offered a grounding contrast to the overtly feminine mood 
Colour: A restrained palette of black and white, offset with sandy neutrals and urban grey  
Fabric & knit: Summer suede, satin, rustc linen, burn-outs, organza floral appliqués, sheened knits, silk and sheers, crystalline embroideries  
Print & pattern: A fairytale silhouette print used as an engineered border placement; stripes  
Details & trims: Pierrot ruffles, contrast trims or colour-blocking, bow-tied necks on blouses 
Footwear: Black patent ankle-strap high-cut shoes with a contrast toe; high patent boots  

Altuzarra  
Complicated asymmetry and body-con silhouettes bucked the season’s emerging trend for low-key sportswear at Altuzarra.
The look: Hard-edged 
Silhouette: Asymmetric body-con 
Key items: Thigh-high slashed skirts and body-con dresses formed the core of this collection, softened with the contrast of fluid wide-cut pant shapes. Jackets and coats were cut close to the body, with complicated strap or asymmetric closure details. Appliquéd details and cone-shaped bra panels took the look to the max, and for evening there were long, asymmetric, slashed jersey dresses  
Colour: The palette reiterated the graphic mood, with black, white and inky blues accented with ice blue, pale lemon and flashes of orange and lime for accessories 
Fabric & knit: High-sheen satin contrasted with body-con jersey and knit, with metallic leather and a medley of reptile skins  
Print & pattern: Skin patterns  
Details & trims: Tricksy straps and cut-outs, fabric blocking and graphic appliqués 
Footwear: White gladiator sandal boots 
Accessories: Narrow rouleau belts and bangles in lime, chrome yellow and orange

Robert Geller
Strong, youthfully commercial shapes and a relaxed mood pervaded Robert Geller's spring/summer showing.
"I drew inspiration from late-60s Berlin and that youth generation. They wanted to leave the past behind them and create something beautiful of their own, and I was really inspired by that kind of energy," the designer told WGSN.
The look: Mismatched layering
Silhouette: Relaxed and easy with soft tailoring and multi-layered separates
Key items: Easy-cut wide shorts were teamed with layered, unstructured jackets and soft summer raincoats, with marled tees and shadow-plaid shirts. Casually styled Harringtons and washed leather jackets offered a play on proportion, while an easy boiler suit brought a utility feel into play. Pant shapes were relaxed and cropped or cut to below the knee from a full high rise, teamed with chunky knit cardigans or a boxy Western jacket
Colour: A rich medley of intense brick and terracotta shades, teamed with khaki, urban greys and warm manilla, with soft rose as a highlight
Fabric & knit: Crumpled and washed finishes added to the relaxed mood, with denim in several washes and weights teamed with satinised finishes, leather, ombred stripes, marled jersey and shadow plaids
Details & trims: Utility zips
Footwear: Clasic monk-strap shoes in black leather or pale sand-coloured suede
Accessories: Tasseled cord necklaces, bow-tied sash belts, double-knot leather belts, wide scarves, leather arm and leg-bands, low-crown trilbies with a wider brim shape

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