6:56 AM
admin
Roberto Cavalli
Celebrating his 40th anniversary this season, Roberto Cavalli did away with his usual big-cat prints in favour of slinky snakeskin and slitheringly skintight clothes, given swingy movement with an abundance of on-trend fringing.
The look: Reptilian rock goddesses
Silhouette: Maxi lengths all the way; second-skin bodies and exposed midriffs
Key items: Cutaway halterneck maxidresses with dropped-waist skirts sitting low on the hips and exposing the midriff; sleeveless jackets and short waistcoats worn with second-skin lace-up hipster pants with a slight flare at the ankle; printed button-up shirts in silk chiffon; tiny bra tops or printed bikinis worn with hip-slung maxi skirts; string-strapped crop tops worn beneath a peaked-shoulder leather/skin jackets
Colour: Pale vapour greys, ice blue, blush pink and jet black
Fabric & knit: Raw-edged python and alligator skins, suede, slicked leather, satin, printed silk chiffon, linen, laddered and crochet knits, macramé
Print & pattern: Cavalli steered clear of his signature big-cat animal prints, opting instead for trompe l’oeil pieced snake or alligator skins and collaged feathers, including spotted guinea and a striped feather that almost resembled tiger
Details & trims: Lashings of fringe - plaited/braided, beaded or degradé; whipstitching, leather-cord lacing, patchworking and pieced skins, macramé, sheer panels, sequinned snake patterning on sheer chiffon base, beading, crochet inserts, patchworked lace
Footwear: Barely there crisscross-laced sandal boots and matching flat sandals
Accessories: Fringed cord-wrap bracelets, gold and silver beaded stacked bangles, necklaces made of tangled or plaited chains and leather thong fringing, macramé fringe collar-necklaces hung from metal rings, fringed and tasselled long-strapped shoulder bags, and low-slung across-body messengers
DSquared
Dean and Dan Caten did away with their fast and fetishistic looks from winter and opted for the casual appeal of boyfriend-dressing this season, drawing on the subtle sex appeal of an unbuttoned shirt or a sweater-and-miniskirt combo.
The look: Borrowed from the boys
Silhouette: Masculine, relaxed fits
Key items: Androgynous ensembles such as a boyfriend blazer - complete with natty pocket kerchief - worn over a satin pelmet-hemmed slipdress, a chambray shirt worn open with mannish wide-leg slacks, or a simple boyfriend sweater teamed with a silk shirt and mini skirt. Masculine DB suits and satin tuxedos for evening; plenty of shorts - short boy shorts, plaid walking shorts or casual rolled denim shorts. A minimal soft-belted mac with turned-up boyfriend-cut jeans; flat-front cropped pants and a croc-leather bomber jacket; swing coats; crisp white shirts paired with A-line miniskirts with single open pleat at the front. For evening, reworked formalwear including a dress-shirt-inspired bib-front satin dress and a plissé maxiskirt with thigh-high split worn with a waistcoat-cape hybrid
Colour: Crisp white, cigarillo browns, dark denim and navy blues and faux nudes, flashes of royal blue or jade green, black for evening
Fabric & knit: Cotton poplin, silk, satin charmeuse, chequerboard-woven grosgrain ribbon, chambray, dark-wash denim, even plaid, polished crocodile leather, neat mid-gauge knits, a chunky open-stitch knit
Print & pattern: Scarf print on silk - a check pattern made up of belts, chains and ribbons
Details & trims: All-over sequins and bead patterning, flower beads, chequerboard-woven grosgrain ribbon decorated with paste jewels and clear plastic rings, fine Chantilly lace trims, cutwork embroidery
Footwear: Simple crisscross-strapped leather sandals, diamante-studded T-bar heels, flat masculine brogues either in polished dark brown leather or two-tone - worn with slouchy ankle socks
Accessories: Geek-chic opticals and sunglasses, long fine-chain necklaces, hip-slung belts with chain fastening, silk neck scarves, straw trilbies, minimal open-top leather totes with double handle, briefcase-inspired formal bags with traditional concertina construction
Giorgio Armani
Inspired by the Tuareg people of North Africa, Giorgio Armani's monotone collection was played out in a range of blue hues representing the shades of night-time desert skies, while silhouettes were long, lean and layered.
The look: Blue nomads
Silhouette: Long and lean with the occasional swing flare
Key items: Square-shouldered blazers in smooth slicked leathers paired with sheer cowl-necked tops; nipped-waist DB tailleurs layered with flared tunics and softly tailored tapered-leg pants; cropped edge-to-edge jackets, collarless zip-through jackets with curved cutaway closures; a spaghetti-strap corset top with bow detail; signature waistcoats worn as tops; one-shouldered or strapless column gowns for evening
Colour: A palette of moody blues ranging from lustrous prussian blue to rich inky navy and shadowy midnight blue-black in monotone matt/shine mixes
Fabric & knit: Satin, silk jacquard, slicked leather, wool mohair, lace-like knits, high-shine metallic gazar, taffeta, chiffons sheers, silk
Details & trims: Braided frogging, crystals, sequins and couture-like beaded embroideries inspired by the night-time desert skies
Footwear: Open-weave heeled pumps with lace-up detail and shrunken forepart platforms; satin courts with bow trims; signature flat pumps
Accessories: Tuareg turbans, wire-framed sunglasses with graded lenses, wide soft leather belts, metallic neckscarves, shirt cuffs, stacked bracelets and bangles, Berber-inspired jewellery including amulet necklaces decorated with enamelled moths or jewelled scorpions, chainmail collars, large flat glass bead necklaces
Posted in: 
0 comments:
Post a Comment