Live from...Paris Fashion Week, Day 4

Lanvin

Taking the concept of a man's wardrobe as a uniform, Alber Elbaz and Lucas Ossendrijver rewrote the menswear rules. Their visionary spring/summer collection succeeded where others have failed, injecting an intrinsic sense of modernity into their subtly revamped silhouettes and quirky proportion play.

The look: A man's wardrobe as a uniform

Silhouette: Languid and layered with a new dropped shoulderline and mismatched proportion play

Key items: The tunic or elongated shell top was confirmed as one of next summer's key items, here worked in leather or in jersey with a leather front panel, providing the season's new layering pieces when teamed with SB tailoring, shorts or narrow straight-legged pants. The boxy commuter coat too was here in spades, zipped in leather – occasionally without sleeves – wet-look patent or worked in colour-blocked shades of bone and string with a high funnel neckline. Colour-blocking updated basic shirt shapes too, while elsewhere the season's emerging hot item, the zipped blouson/shirt hybrid, was worked as an integral part of languid tailored looks. A new dropped shoulderline added soft volume to SB jackets and there was a change of pace, with youthful military jackets and frockcoats teamed with techno-ethnic printed low-rise pants or soft ombréd jersey leggings

Colour: A masculine palette of summer darks punctuated with the odd mid-tone brights we have seen elsewhere in Paris this week. Think saxe blue, watermelon and old gold layered on black, charcoal, midnight, burgundy, bark and espresso, with a neutral level of washed-out tones including pebble, stone, pigeon grey and manilla

Fabric & knit: Leather, patent, languid silk and viscose blends, silk tweed, brushed wool, jersey, bibbed jersey, check shirtings, light melanged worsteds

Print & pattern: Blazer stripes, micro check shirtings, subtle engineered ombré placements, techno ethnic prints

Details & trims: Exposed zips, military buttons, raw edges

Footwear: Military boots, suede lace-ups, sandals

Accessories: Rumpled scarves, military belts, small cross-body envelope bags on skinny straps, nylon totes, iPad case bags, slim ties, wooden beads

Roland Mouret Mr

Laidback masculine elegance from Roland Mouret for his eponymous Mr label. The designer mined the fashion archive for inspiration, working fluid 40s silhouettes by way of the 70s, with lean torsos balancing wide full-legged pant shapes, to create a 70s-style resort look.

The look: Fashion archive

Silhouette: Nipped waists and lean torsos teamed with fluid volume in bottomweights

Key items: The fluid pleat-front pant and wide-legged tailored short were at the heart of this collection, teamed with nipped-waist 2SBs or DB jackets, layered over torso-tickling vests. Neatly styled Harringtons and softly belted safari jackets brought a casual look into play; the perfect jacket weights to layer over resort-style perforated jersey and fine-gauge knitwear or buttondown polo shirts

Colour: French navy, ink, white, string, pebble grey, old gold, vivid chrome yellow, saxe blue, espresso, brilliant cobalt blue, olive, straw and flashes of turquoise and blush for top weights

Fabric & knit: Luxe summer tweed, silk, perforated jersey, perforated knits, fine-gauge knits

Print & pattern: A subtle burnout botanical motif on jersey

Details & trims: Exposed zips

Footwear: White or coloured lace-ups

Accessories: Straw hats

Paul Smith

With rock 'n' roll emerging as a key reference this season, it was surprising to see Paul Smith bypass the look when so often the 60s and 70s music scene has been a favoured inspiration for him. Instead Smith chose commerciality over costume, with a collection built upon saleable items. His mot du jour for summer 2012? Everything was spliced, colour-blocked, pieced and panelled.

The look: Easy believable dressing

Silhouette: Slim but casual

Key items: Pants were either slim and straight with a cropped turn-up or tapered from a loose-fitting dropped crotch, also spotted were a pair of luxe silk joggers tapering to a ribbed ankle cuff; tailored jackets featured spliced leather sleeves or a patchwork of matt-shine panels, while outerwear - including hooded car coats, collarless baseball jackets and odd back-to-front windcheaters - were casually layered over granddad tees, super-fine jersey shirts and sky blue shirt-and-tie combos with neat buttondown collars, and occasionally denim overhead shirts added a casual top layer; the jean jacket also proved a key item, arriving in several fabrics from shiny ink-blue satin to neat denim with spliced leather sleeves

Colour: Offbeat combinations of bright orange with navy, sky blue and drab neutrals, or washed terracotta pink and shadowy merlot with camel and navy; a final passage of tonal blues

Fabric & knit: Cotton, silk, satin, leather, super-fine jersey, nylon and ciré, denim, silk mohair suiting, heathered grey yarns

Print & pattern: Shadowy shaded effects, a multicoloured shattered shard print

Details & trims: Spliced leather sleeves, tonal panelling, colour-blocking, back-to-front hoods

Footwear: Kiltie-fringed formal shoes with cutaway sides and buckled strap, leopard spotted casual lace-up shoes, brogues in denim or two-tone suede

Accessories: Round sunglasses, narrow-trimmed trilbies, blunt-ended ties, colour-blocked squashy leather bags

Acne

It was another stellar showing from Jonny Johansson at Swedish denim label Acne, where the menswear collections are going from strength to strength, confirming the label's place on the Paris fashion schedule. Taking functionalism and Swedish purity as inspiration, Johansson translated that into retro sportswear with a smart-casual mix.

The look: 70s sportif

Silhouette: Oversized uppers with tapered legs

Key items: True sports pieces including over-head windcheaters, cycling shorts and boxy sweatshirts peppered the collection, while suede bombers, a knitted viscose track suit and wide-cut turtleneck tops moved the collection into retro sportswear territory; further 70s styling arrived via the tapered and cropped pant shapes that had that pyjama-like quality associated with retro resortwear; also of note were the over-head tops in raw suede, fly-front commuter coats and ribbed knit sweaters. Denim is a brand focus for Acne and highlights included the smart long-rise denim trousers and the jean jacket – which is fast becoming a key item from Paris – presented here with a contrast collar and oversized construction

Colour: A palette of denim blues with black, mid-tone red, teal and tan, with interesting combinations of salmon pink, camel and mink grey with a single shot of mint

Fabric & knit: Denim, raw suede, textured linen, double knit viscose, ribbed cotton knits, traditional cable knit, nylon and polyester, sweatshirting, Lycra and neoprene techno textiles, treated cottons

Print & pattern: Splotchy camo, dense florals

Details & trims: Round-tipped shirt collars, zip closures, suede knee patches, sweatshirt stitching/overlocking, elongated shawl tux collar

Footwear: Matt leather slip-ons, kiltie-fringed loafers; several leather sandal shapes including thong and toe loop, criss-cross and kiltie fringed

Accessories: Boxy suede rucksack, oversized bucket bag in panelled leather/suede, squashy clutch bags, zippered attachés; suede or denim baseball caps

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Live From... London Fashion Week, Day 4

Burberry Prorsum 

With 60s icon Jean Shrimpton playing muse for Christopher Bailey this season, silhouettes had that swing-shaped twig-legged silhouette, which played out through oversized outerwear and slim-cut pants that finished in a wide flare. 

The look: Coats, coats and more coats
Silhouette: Sturdy outerwear shapes, lean tailoring and skinny legs
Key items: Outerwear is always central to a Burberry collection, but never more so than this winter, with three-quarters of the total womenswear exits offering a coat or jacket. The signature trench arrived in heavy wool with domed shoulders and oversized storm capes/gun flaps, patent leather-trimmed tweed with fox-fur shoulders, or slimline silk wool embossed with cable-knit patterning. Duffel coats arrived as fitted jackets with dropped waists or swing-cropped with bell sleeves, or were worked into long-line sweaters featuring the patent toggle fastenings and turn-up buttoned cuffs. Elsewhere there were sculpted coats with overblown balloon sleeves, domed cape coats, mink officer coats, swing shapes with pleated backs cinched with wide martingales, sheared and banded fur options, a peplum double-buttoned jacket with tall funnel neck, and short jackets in mink and cashmere knits. In addition to the plethora of coats, there were sweet drop-waisted dresses with bell skirts, tailored sheaths with keyhole cutouts, fur-sleeved knitted sweaters and two pants shapes - either copped drainpipes with zipped ankle or long slim-cut flares
Colours: Three palettes built the collection, which opened with flat planes of juicy brights - orange, red, pea green and kingfisher blue - followed by a passage of muted autumnal tones of russet, moss green, ochre and camel, before closing with simple black and white
Fabric & knit: Compact wools, stretch wool, silk wool, brushed buffalo-check wools, marled yarns, grainy tweeds, bonded fabrics, patent leather, matt quilted cire, tinsel fibres, cashmere, cable knits and knitted furs, shaved furs, fox, mink and jaguar mink
Print & pattern: Woven checks and plaids
Details & trims: Feature sleeves - overblown, bell or balloon, keyhole cutouts, patent duffel toggles, patent leather trims, fur shoulders and sleeves, oversized or narrow storm capes/gun flaps, micro quilting, banded fur and patent leather, funnel necks, tab shoulders, flared peplums, buttoned-sleeve cuffs, zipped trouser cuffs, narrow double-buttoning
Footwear: Extreme platform wedges with notched heel and thick treads either buckled or tasselled, in polished leather or croc, sometimes with a woven leather detail on the vamp
Accessories: The Haymarket bowling bag in wide width, narrow height or a taller north-south shape, featuring oversized leather tassels and some with textile panels in the house check. Long-strapped cross-body bags carried as clutches, some rib-quilted, others in textiles with leather trim. Semi-circular clutch bags with oversized tassels only in black-and-white combinations

Todd Lynn

Todd Lynn cited past and present “revolution” as the inspiration for his winter collection, which resulted in a series of battle-ready pieces, some that protected and concealed, and others that bared the slashed scars of war. 

The look: Protective battle skins
Silhouette: Strictly tailored, softened with occasional drape
Key items: Zip-up biker jackets featuring tall funnel necks that partially cover the face, or fold-over capelet collars. Super-skinny pants and leggings - some cigarette-cropped with fin pockets, others with zips running the length of the leg. Pants are sometimes layered with spiral-twisting ribbed-knit dresses in laddered stitches or drape-skirted dresses with felted wool shell tops featuring a slashed shoulder
Colour: Muted shades of moss, white sand, greyed sage, brick red and black
Fabric & knit: Draped wool jersey, stretch wool, heavy wool rib, felted knits silk, fine semi-sheer knits, fox, mink, leather and suede
Details & trims: Shoulder slashes, spliced leather inserts, kick flares at the back of jackets, zip-up funnel capelets, wrap-around zippers, horn buttons, drape, panelling
Footwear: Christian Louboutin suede platform courts with a ridged leather panel
Accessories: Above-the-elbow gauntlet gloves

Paul Smith

Paul Smith is good at menswear. He’s good at tailoring. He’s great at considering those quirky little details that make a standard piece unique. So if it ain’t broke, why fix it, even if it’s meant to be for women? This was borrowed-from-the-boys dressing in its purest form, and while it may not have been revolutionary design, it was a strong case in point for playing to your strengths.

The look: Casual androgyny
Silhouette: Relaxed and boyish
Key items: Save for a handful of dresses at the end, it was a collection as dominated by trousers as Burberry was coats. There were cropped and cuffed comfort-fit peg pants, slouchy rolled cords, casual chinos and love-worn boyfriend jeans in washed blue denim. Topping the plethora of pants came sheer shirts and crisp cotton button-down shirts, knitted polonecks and loose-fit boyfriend sweaters, which were then further layered with oversized cardis, tailored boyfriend blazers and mannish overcoats or minimal commuter macs. It wasn’t until the final few looks that girlishness broke through the androgyny, with a series of embroidered silk dresses - one a cheongsam layered over wide-leg pants, another a cap-sleeved column
Colours: Understated greys, browns and neutrals, with washed denim blue, punchy violet and bright orangeFabric & knit: Linen blends, pinstripe suiting, cotton shirting, flannel, wool, Harris tweed, heathered yarns, popcorn stitches, chintzed cottons, washed corduroy, silk, panne velvet, lace, rabbit
Print & pattern: Natty polka dots and shirting stripes
Details & trims: Coloured buttons, mismatched sleeve linings, contrast-coloured waistbands on pinstripe pants, embroidered florals, cutaway revers, button-down collars
Footwear: Mannish flats - classic brogues, loafers and oxfords
Accessories: Slouchy knit beanies, chain-handled satchels, silk ties


Giles

After summer’s candy-coloured pop-kitsch collection, which took nothing too seriously, Giles Deacon took a dramatically dark turn for winter with a collection inspired by the covered-up sexualisation of 19th century dressing. “Austere, not austerity. There’s a notion of sex without acres of exposed flesh,” he said. 

The look: Fetishised Edwardiana
Silhouette: Form-following with constricted waists
Key items: The white shirt - either with Edwardian high collars and cuffed sleeves or sleeveless and swing-shaped but still with that high collar, which also appeared for dresses and skirts, or as poloneck sweaters. Body-conscious sheath dresses and tailored skirt suits were demurely cut at the knee, while long maxi-column gowns arrived in printed silks. Outerwear included a structured cape in gold brocade, an oversized lamb’s leather donkey jacket, and long goat-hair options cinched with waspie belts, while tailored jackets featured a folded peplum. For evening, gowns, cocktail dresses and pantsuits had a gothic drama to them, with long goat or feather trims, and lace or sheer panels revealing hints of skin
Colours: Puritanical black and white, rich jewel-toned teal, pale gold and camel
Fabric & knit: Crisp white cotton, smooth wools, silk and silk jersey, super-fine tulle sheer, Swiss lace, tinsel-shot glitter tweed and brocade, lamb’s leather, glossy calfskin, long goat hair, acid-stripped peacock feathers dyed black
Print & pattern: An overblown reproduction print of Paul Delaroche’s painting The Execution of Lady Jane Grey, Art Nouveau florals inspired by the work of William De Morgan
Details & trims: Edwardian pie-crust-frilled collars and cuffs, jet beading, feathered collars, goat-hair trims, bondage straps and peekaboo sheers
Footwear: Peep-toe ribbon-laced ankle boots by Gina
Accessories: Girdles and waspies, satin hair bows, jewelled collars

Mark Fast

In a bid to expand his repertoire, Mark Fast introduced leather and skin to his signature engineered knitwear. Although the show opened with a strong section of warm textured wools worked into believable outerwear, bondage and fetish seemed to be the main theme, adding further sex appeal to his already racy knit dresses. 

The look: Skimpy knits and bondage leather
Silhouette: Signature body-con with new, looser T-shirt shapes and swing flare
Key items: The opening exits were possibly the most successful of the collection - a softly belted wrap coat with looped wool panels and exaggerated shoulders, followed by a great cropped jacket cinched with a drawstring waist. A suede T-shirt dress and a funnel-neck side-fastened wrap shift were also strong, as was the cranberry-coloured calfskin jacket with trailing bondage straps. Less successful were the leather pieces - hooded rain macs, cutaway dungarees, string-laced leggings and off-the-shoulder tops. Signature skin-tight knit dresses were as short and sassy as ever, featuring string-strapped halternecks, while matching knit crop tops and high-waist pencils had a youthful appeal
Colours: Winter white, sandy beige, cranberry, vermilion and black
Fabric & knit: Looped wool resembling sheepskin, ridged and ribbed knits, signature ladder stitches and engineered cobweb knits, tufted wool fringe, pleated knits with a concertina-like spring. New material directions saw the introduction of suede, glossy calfskin and super-fine slicked leather
Details & trims: Banded hems and cuffs, exaggerated shoulders, high-low hemlines, pleated knits, fetish string lacing, buckled bondage straps, square fins
Footwear: Knee-high lace-up boots, chunky black cutout shoes, spike-heeled slingbacks decorated with a fluffy pompom
Accessories: A fur Cossack hat, stacked chunky bangles

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Live From... Paris Menswear, Day 4

Lanvin

Several of the week’s emerging trends were confirmed at Lucas Ossendrijver’s showing for Lanvin, where the designer played with dressed-up looks and mismatched proportional layering. 

The look: Retro glamour
Silhouette: Narrow, layered and reed thin contrasted with volume through the torso
Key items: Fluid wide-cut flat-front pants helped determine the new silhouette, teamed with narrow close-cut coats and jackets - best as a retro-styled DB or 1SB in soft washed brights or velvet. Elsewhere it was all about leggings or skinny pants and minimal knee-length tunics, styled with flat fronts (this is the season of hidden fastenings) or simple shell tops, both often layered under rounded puffa jackets for a mismatched silhouette and a play on proportion. There was a sense of asymmetry too in the narrow DB coats, which came with hidden magnet closures or biker-style zips - another emerging trend this season.
Colour: All shades of grey, black and inky navy, alabaster, camel, soft khaki or olive, washed brick and mallard green, taupe and aurbergine
Fabric & knit: Like many designers this season, Ossendrijver opted for bonded fabrics to create a sculpted silhouette. He offset that with luxurious flannels and cashmeres, tweed, leather, velvet and satin
Print & pattern: A grey and camel fragmented geometric pattern, teamed with a coordinating print that was overprinted in darker grey
Details & trims: Flat-fly fronts, hidden magnet closures, epaulettes, contrast facings
Footwear: Loafers in grey or tan leather or suede; pale leather hiking boots
Accessories: Striped club ties, narrow bow ties, document cases, toning gloves (newest in pale colours), felt fedoras


Yves Saint Laurent

A more youthful look underpinned the Yves Saint Laurent autumn/winter collection, as Stefano Pilati opted for a reed-thin silhouette with subtle Edwardiana teddy-boy influences, contrasted with overscaled outerwear.

The look: Young blade
Silhouette: Reed thin and elongated contrasted with big, overscaled, boxy outerwear
Key items: Tailoring formed the core of the collection, reworked as high-buttoned 2SBs, creating the illusion of a longer jacket length. Contrast trims and high-set narrow shawl collars lent the look an Edwardiana-inspired teddy-boy feel. A contrasting silhouette came in the form of lean DBs with narrow six-button placements. Pant shapes were cropped and narrow, contrasting with boxy square-cut outerwear shapes featuring Pilati’s new sloping shoulderline - a look that also transcended to his tailoring. Coloured plain-dye shirts - with micro collars - and fine-gauge knits completed the look
Colour: A palette of shaded greys, black, pine green, aubergine and tonal navy blues, from ink through to softer French navy, highlighted with accents of absinthe, old gold and pumpkin used for shirtings and fine-gauge knits
Fabric & knit: Felted wools, shadow checks, cashmere and flannels
Details & trims: Contrast velvet collars and pocket details, narrow revers and shaved shawl collars
Footwear: High-shine shoes on a heavy patterned unit

Acne

A surprisingly low-key look from Acne, with underplayed tailoring and an emphasis on the long-line coat , which when teamed with simple knits created a youthful sartorial appeal. 

The look: The Acne boy grows up
Silhouette: Long-line and classic
Key items: The long overcoat was a key feature, worked as classic DBs or even as a reproportioned duffle, layered over narrow cropped and cuffed tailored pants. Tailoring was another key option, coming as low-break SBs or with a narrow shawl collar, teamed with fine-gauge knits in winter brights. Contrasting shirt tails peeped from under sweaters or sweatshirts, baring travel-destination logos such as Rio de Janeiro, Paris and New York. Fine-gauge twinsets were another key look, with asymmetric detailing
Colour: A classic palette of charcoal, black, alabaster and camel, with accents of raspberry, bright turquoise, pumpkin and cobalt
Fabric & knit: Bonded wools, herringbone tweed, cotton shirtings, wool twill, marled sweatshirting. Fine-gauge and lofty heavy-gauge knits
Print & pattern: Travel-destination logos on sweats
Details & trims: Shawl collars, low-break points
Footwear: Chelsea boots in leather, or patent classic oxfords
Accessories: Soft shoppers, document cases

Bill Tornade

Bill Tornade was marching to a military beat this season - one with a Scottish tune, as traditional tartans clashed with army greatcoats and battle jackets.
The look: The tartan army
Silhouette: Neat but relaxedKey items: The DB greatcoat, ¾ trench and DB military battle jacket or reefer - some with luxe fur collars and a horizontal zip at the hem band. Kilts offered an alternative to the narrow cropped cuffed pants that ran through the collection teamed with novelty knits, knitted shirts, casual jackets or neat SB tailoring.
Colour: Black and grey, khaki and camel, scarletFabric & knit: Traditional tartans, flannel, waxed cottons, leather
Print & pattern: Woven plaids, a trompe l’oeil intarsia featuring braces
Details & trims: Military badges, safety pins, zips on shirts and running horizontally round the hip of a greatcoat or the waistband of jackets
Footwear: Chelsea boots, laced military boots
Accessories: Satin scarves adorned with safety pins

Paul Smith

There was an easy casualness to Paul Smith’s latest menswear offering, his signature tailoring offset with baggy cardigans and untucked, raw-edged shirts. 

The look: Thrown-together nonchalance
Silhouette: Slim-legged and casually layered
Key items: Long quilted parkas with shearling hoods; duffel coats with off-centre toggled closures; tailored crombies with zipped feature collars; baseball jackets and sloppy oversized cardigans layered atop patchworked print or collarless chambray shirts. Tailored trousers are lean and cropped or long-rise and generously cut, while casual options include motocross-style zipped pants and tapered chinos. Long, thick knit cardigan coats featuring dressy peaked lapels
Colour: Camel, sky blue, silver and a range of mid-level greys, with pops of titanium blue, sunshine yellow and vermillion
Fabric & knit: Flannel, micro-check wools, chalk-stripe suiting, chambray shirting, cashmere blends, mohair, marled yarn knits, tufted teddy furs, waffle-like textured knits, leather, suede and shearling
Print & pattern: Grayscale animal print, faded marbling, spliced and patchworked prints, polka dots
Details & trims: Shearling hoods, raw-edge shirts, spliced leather jacket sleeves, oversized popper fastenings, knee patches, triple zipped knee details, toggles, zip-trimmed shawl collars
Footwear: Lace-up boots with double-buckled contrast leather ankle strap, derby ankle boots, plain pull-on boots
Accessories: Squashy unstructured totes and holdalls, knitted fishermen’s beanies, retro goggle-like sunglasses, wishbone pendant

Thom Browne 

The 18th century is rich pickings for a designer partial to a cropped trouser or two, and as such Thom Browne revelled in breeches and knickerbockers for winter. Couple that with layered coats, long capes and pouffy leg-of-mutton shirts, and it’s a recipe for fashion-themed high jinks. 

The look: 18th century eccentricity
Silhouette: Voluminous puffs and cuffs
Key items: Historically inspired breeches and knickerbockers, floor-sweeping coats, edged frock coats and puff-sleeved shirts. High-breaking 4SB crombies were slim and neatly tailored, while blazers and jackets were short and shrunken. Sleeveless jackets and blazers with spliced or contrast-knitted sleeves were on trend; tailored trousers were cropped and cuffed
Colour: Signature red, white and blue; mid-level greys, white and black; grass green and burgundy
Fabric & knit: Mix-and-match checks including plaids, Argyle diamonds, windowpane and gingham; astrakhan, ermine and curly lamb fur; mohair, velvet
Print & pattern: Signature woven checks, double stripe
Details & trims: Speckled feather trouser cuffs, red/white/blue striped ribbon trims, contrast sleeves sometimes knitted
Footwear: Plain zip-up ankle boots, lace-up army boots, monk-strap shoes
Accessories: Buckled gauntlet gloves, cable-knitted snoods, shrunken pork-pie hats, top hats and canes, chunky knitted scarves and headbands, collegiate striped ties, wire-framed round sunglasses in two sizes

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Live From... London Fashion Week Day 4

Nicole Farhi

            

Inspired by the artist Christo’s large-scale wrappings, Nicole Farhi took her collection in a clean and minimalist direction, combining sharp architectural lines with an exploration of technical or subversive fabrics.
The look: New-wave minimalism
Silhouette: Loosely columnar with layered lengths
Key items: Sporty shift dresses in pleated sheers, tanks (US: vests) and "fencing" vests with criss-cross canvas straps at the back; on-trend items such as the apron-front dress, sheer T-shirts or columnar maxiskirt, here layered with an elongated sleeveless jacket. Also wide-leg pants, tulip skirts, sleeveless trench coat, halterneck dresses and organza blazers
Colour: Tonal lemon and sunshine yellows, vivid nasturtium pink and palest peach, royal blue and navy, set against vapour grey and optic white. Iridescent white gold and moonshine silvers
Fabric & knit: Technical nylons, razor-cut laminated cupros, latex, patent leather, platinum lamé, nylon mesh, paper-cut or crushed cottons, jerseys, organza sheers, taffeta, voile, super-fine sheer knits
Print & pattern: A dappled floral in washed neons diffused beneath a layer of nylon mesh; digital abstract geometrics
Details & trims: Transparent square-cut pailettes, pleated stripes, spliced sheer panels, twisted sheers, crinkle finishes, angel-hair fringing
Footwear: Flat sandals and mid-height heels in tan and coloured leathers with clear plastic strap
Accessories: Skinny PVC belts - either clear or colour-tinted; extra-long ribbon belts

Erdem

            

A glorious autumn afternoon and a garden setting provided the picture-perfect backdrop for the latest Erdem collection full of feminine silhouettes, delicate fabrics and romantic prints.
The look: Summer romance
Silhouette: Feminine fit-and-flare, and soft tailored separates
Key items: The fit-and-flare dress was worked in a variety of looks, cut to the knee with elegantly formed feminine proportions. The feminine mood continued with a play on pretty blouse-and-skirt combinations, ranging from fluted hems to soft full dirndls and a floor-sweeping silhouette in godet panelled lace. Blouses were worked with pretty lace collars or came as simple shell tops in lace and sheer, while a more casual appeal came into play with easy shirtdresses, tailored shirts and relaxed narrow pants
Colour: Delicate paper white, vivid poppy red, inky blues, buttermilk and black
Fabric: Lace in every weight, from the most delicate to embroidered cutwork and over-embroidered qualities. Sheers, cottons and silk
Print & pattern: A vivid poppy print, harlequin patchwork, mixed florals
Details & trims: Delicate dustings of Swarovski crystals added to the fairytale look
Footwear: High sandals with ballet shoe-inspired ties

Mark Fast

            

Mark Fast continued his signature riff with his customary form-fitting knits. However, some of the more jaded members of the fashion press in the packed audience wonder if it isn’t time the designer developed a new tune and explored new silhouettes.
The look: Dare to bare with glittering embellishment
Silhouette: Form-fitting shapes softened with swishing fringes
Key items: The complex cobweb structures of the knitted body-con dress formed the crux of the collection, updated this season with panels morphing into cobweb-like torsos, subsequently morphing into silken tasselled fringes, or with panels of high-shine patent and crystal embellishment. Patent bra tops, body-con skirts, leggings and cycle shorts were worked into the mix
Colour: Black highlighted with vivid rainbows of fuchsia, poppy, turquoise, watermelon and peach, with chrome yellow, white and baby blue
Fabric & knit: Mixed-gauge yarns, patent, metallic leather
Details & trims: Ombréd fringing, silken tassels, halternecks, cutouts and crystal embellishment to define form-fitting shapes
Footwear: High block platforms with laced details, snakeskin sandals with cork wedges by Christian Louboutin and Mark Fast
Accessories: Swarovski jewellery designed by Mark Fast

Holly Fulton

            

A strong showing from Holly Fulton, who showed she can combine her signature prints with accomplished design skills, as she moved up a notch with a very professionally worked collection.
The look: Luxe resort
Silhouette: Sharp 60s glamour
Key items: Retro-style glamour was high on the agenda, with Fulton’s sharp shift dresses, wide-cut palazzo pants, slick pencil skirts and bejewelled shell tops. The emerging trend for raffia was addressed, with raffia-fringed hemlines and a dramatic bolero teamed with a sexy high-cut swimsuit. Skating skirts offered a contrasting silhouette, along with slinky maxis and soft sarong wraps
Colour: Fulton’s prints were accentuated with her fulsome palette of vivid summer brights and complementary toning pales. Think bright turquoise, chrome yellow and mandarin, teamed with pale aqua, primrose, blush and mallow
Fabric & knit: High-shine patent with laser-cut motifs combined with silks and taffeta, python and ponyskin, offset with novelty raffia fringing
Print & pattern: Fulton sited the Memphis group as print inspiration this season, with irregular graphic mosaic shards appearing alongside her signature almost Deco-like geometrics, highlighted with glittering crystal embellishment and engineered placements. A finale print was of soft tonal clouds, embedded with crystals
Details & trims: Raffia fringing, chain straps, brace clips, crystals, intricate beading, jewelled halter collars
Footwear: Towering Louboutin courts in patent, crystal or bi-coloured leather
Accessories: Laser-cut wood, perspex and crystal merged with skins and studs for statement jewellery. Raffia clutch bags and mini attaché cases in graphic prints

David Koma

            

David Koma opted for strong silhouettes for his spring/summer showing, marrying his signature body-conscious looks with graphic appliqués.
The look: Graphic lines
Silhouette: Body-conscious, emphasised with linear pieced effects
Key items: Body-con sheaths were given an added dimension layered with gathered tutu-inspired skirt belts, that same balletic inspiration colouring Koma’s full godet-panelled skating skirts. Elsewhere it was all about the pencil skirt or tailored suit, pieced with linear graphic panels and sheer inserts
Colour: The palette was a mix of fragile and hard with graphic black and white offset by blush pink and pale primrose. Gold added the final glittering touch
Fabric & knit: Delicate chiffons, organza and tulle-panelled jersey worked alongside embossed leather, python skin and Italian wool, with gold and black pailettes for a touch of theatrical drama
Details & trims: Linear pieced snakeskin panels, metallic embellished placements, high-low hems, halternecks, racer backs
Footwear: High wedged sandals and ankle boots, specially designed by Alain Quilici
Accessories: Ruched tutu belts in leather and snakeskin, metal cuffs and knuckleduster rings by Mawi

Peter Pilotto

            

A polished spring/summer collection from Peter Pilotto, full of elegantly elongated silhouettes and muted colour working in perfect harmony together.
The look: Chic and minimal with a sportswear edge
Silhouette: Elongated and reed thin
Key items: Long ankle-skimming pleated skirts and dresses, overlayed with asymmetric wraps, micro biker jackets or apron wrap skirts. Corseted-effect tops and high-necked form-fitting knits defined the topweights within the collection, while wide-pleated pants and flared knitted trousers added a change of pace for bottomweights
Colour: Muted saxe blue, cinnamon, ivory and black, taupe and stone
Fabric & knit: Liquid jersey, sportswear fabrics, parachute silk, crinkled silk for texture. Ribbed plated knits
Print & pattern: The design duo returned to screen printing this season, with 3D-effect lace and tweed prints, along with diffused patterns and a multicoloured stippled print
Details & trims: Fluttering ribbons contrasted with the more sporty elements of exposed gold zips and form-defining top stitching. Sporty panelling and colour-blocking
Footwear: High hollow-heeled shoes with a Cubist feel by Nicholas Kirkwood
Accessories: Gold chokers and narrow belts by Scott Wilson


Pringle of Scotland

            

The burgeoning trend for minimalism reached Scotland last night, as Pringle succumbed to the clean and graphic aesthetic that has been sweeping the industry.
“It was an exploration of two different ideas. Part of it was something very feminine, very frivolous, which came through in the feathers and the fringe, and then this austerity, something quite clean and pared down reacting against that. It’s how girls are every day - one day you want something chic and smart, and the next day you want something more girl,” Clare Waight Keller told WGSN
The look: Graphic minimalism, clean sports luxe
Silhouette: Clean lines, narrow and long or mid-length A-line
Key items: The reinvented kilt is always the star piece for Pringle - summer’s update arrived with a perforated mesh or tulle overlay. Other key skirt shapes included a short pencil with asymmetric hip panels, sheer wrap skirts and aprons, either in leather or suede, creating an open-fronted A-line. Shorts were also important - either wide-cut and pleat-front, or tailored with an elasticated-waist gingham under-short. Skirts and shorts were paired with sporty sleeveless tanks (US: vests), mannish button-down shirts or structured T-shirts with wide funnel necks, while knee-length sleeveless dresses featured stand-up Nehru collars
Colour: Optic black and white with nude, camel and sky, or cornflower blues
Fabric & knit: Lightweight mesh, leather, suede, cotton, tulle. Hand-knitted hairpin crochet, knitted lace Argyle hand-woven with silk tape, stripped and knitted gingham shirting, a raker double crochet stitch in graphic pointelle, James Pringle family tartan in various guises of gingham, windowpane check and houndstooth
Details & trims: Tufted or feathered fringing, ribbon threads, embroidered cable patterns, double kilt buckles in silver, sheer tulle overlays, cutaway backs, stand-up Nehru collars
Footwear: Feather-trimmed strappy sandals with wide ankle spat featuring a silver kilt buckle

Giles

            

After his sleek, chic and uber-ladylike winter collection, Giles Deacon returned to his pop-culture roots for summer, fusing 90s pop trash colours and cartoons with on-trend 70s shapes.
The look: Acid pop meets 70s suburbia
Silhouette: Equal offerings of sexy body-con, flared A-lines and long-line columns
Key items: 70s staples such as knitted tank tops over long-sleeved silk shirtdresses; matching shirt and flared-trouser combos; midi-length A-line skirts and button-through pinafore dresses. A continuation of last season's shapely 60s-inspired body-con dresses, a sexy wrap dress revealing a corset, sheer blouses, shrunken sweaters, and a finale of eveningwear ranging from tutu-skirted prom dresses to lean but drapey goddess gowns
Colour: Neon brights, lemon yellow, navy, coffee crème, khaki and black
Fabric & knit: Cartoonish Fair Isle knits; printed silks, cottons and chiffon; laddered and swagged knits; tulle tutu underlayers
Print & pattern: Double spots, trompe l’oeil bows, flowers and eyeballs, crossed plasters (US: band aids), a placement T-shirt graphic of a cartoon character wearing a pair of heart-shaped sunglasses
Details & trims: Micro ruffles, large buttons, long fringing, piping and contour seaming, Peter Pan collars
Footwear: Ruffled sneakers in pale candy colours, strappy mules, peep-toe sandals
Accessories: Pompom hats and collars, cat's eye sunglasses, chiffon scarves

Meadham Kirchhoff

            

Wandering through a fantastical floral set designed by Philip Wiegard and florist Nikki Tibbles, which was scented with Penhaligon's Bluebell fragrance, Meadham Kirchhoff sent out a parade of dark dollies with colour-streaked hair, punk T-shirts and quivering lace frills.
The look: Miss Havisham on acid
Silhouette: Layered with an abundance of ruffled tiers
Key items: A series of dolly-collared sheer blouses, and dresses gathered at the waist and erupting in tiers of frilly ruffles. Ruffled bolero shrugs or glittery knit cardigans worn over wide-cut printed tees; a capelet dress with cut-away panels at the torso; cutwork blouses with pin-tucked or pleated details on sleeves; boxy cropped biker jackets
Colour: A flashy-clashy palette of scarlet red, princess pink, lemon sherbet, dusted mauve, smoke grey, sky blue, khaki, and flashes of neon yellow
Fabric & knit: Lace, pleated chiffon sheers, point d’esprit tulle, lurex glitter knits, printed cottons, painted denim, leather
Print & pattern: Punkish graphics - portrait prints, graffiti scribbles, thrash-metal typography, lacy trompe l’oeil doily motif, micro dots
Details & trims: Twinkling sequins, lace inserts, pintucking, frilly tiers, geometric cutwork, princess collars, plissé sheers
Footwear: Shoes by Pollini for Meadham Kirchhoff - glittery Mary Janes with low block-heels
Accessories: Chunky knee-high socks, ribbon chokers, lace gloves with ruffled cuff and trailing ribbons, headpieces decorated with ceramic flowers, paste jewels and glitter by Nasir Mazhar

Paul Smith

            

Paul Smith loves to borrow from the boys, sending out his girls in reappropriated menswear pieces such as shirts stretched into maxidresses, a tuxedo transformed into a silky playsuit, or pocket kerchiefs pinned together to form a ruffled rara skirt.
The look: Gender-bending with a pinch of 50s teddy-boy styling
Silhouette: Tailored and tapered
Key items: Skinny cropped trousers were cut at the ankle and teamed with masculine button-downs or breezy blouson silk shirts. Tailored suits arrived with subtly oversized boyfriend jackets and tapered peg pants with turn-up cuff, or were transposed into playsuits. All-in-ones were a recurring key item, arriving as playsuits with dropped elasticated waists; a super-short option morphed from a tailored waistcoat or a floral-printed loose-cut sheer jumpsuit. Dresses were either tailored shifts or maxi shirtdresses, with shirt tails exaggerated to become sexy thigh-high splits. Elsewhere, there were simple knitted sweaters, tailored city shorts in micro houndstooth, and super-wide cotton oxford bags
Colour: Signature Paul Smith favourites - slate grey, copper orange, two-tone black merlot, papal purple, lemon sherbet, teal, lime and chocolate
Fabric & knit: Two-tone silks and lustrous wool mohair, silk charmeuse, cotton shirtings, sheer knits, bumblebee striped knits, micro houndstooth, printed chiffon sheers
Print & pattern: Marbled print in autumnal colours of copper, ochre and brown; photoreal chintzy florals; traditional polka dots and shirting stripes
Details & trims: Printed silk trims, linings and surprise panels; pocket kerchiefs used to created ruffles
Footwear: Clear plastic slingbacks with contrast leather toe in bright colours; flat brogue mules in coloured leathers or clear plastic
Accessories: Minimal leather belts, Ray-Ban Clubmaster-style sunglasses, oversized clutch bags carried under the arm, slim short-handled briefcases, silk scarves and neckerchiefs, ties

Roksanda Ilincic

            

A beautifully assured collection from Roksanda Ilincic, who played with cloud-like silhouettes and an ethereal colour palette for spring/summer 2011.
The look: Dreamlike 70s
Silhouette: Unstructured and weightless
Key items: A relaxed, flowing trenchcoat layered over wide pants teamed with a barely there luxurious shell top. Dresses and skirts were the ultimate in simplicity, coming as shifts, almost kaftan shapes, or simple wraps, all with asymmetric draping or swathed effects. Pant shapes from the 70s were immaculately cut, and for after six, there were billowing caped-back dresses and a couture-like grey silk-faille gown with ruched and pleated details on a one-shouldered bodice
Colour: A beautiful light palette of smoky greys, mallow and taupe, highlighted with a vivid Schiaparelli pink, cool iced blue, saxe blue, turquoise, teal and soft lilac
Fabric: The ethereal nature of Ilincic’s silhouettes demanded the lightest of fabrics - gazars and organzas, crystalline beaded silk georgette, sueded silk and cloqué-effect sheers, with metallic linen adding a more structured feel
Details & trims: Asymmetric wrap and drape details, ribbon ties, delicate Solstiss lace edging, tiny frosted beaded trims
Footwear: High double-strap block heels and elegant courts, both by Nicholas Kirkwood
Accessories: Millinery emulating 70s-style gypsy scarves in silk organza, by Noel Stewart

Christopher Kane

            

Christopher Kane ditched last season’s subversive good-girl-gone-bad in favour of retro-styled elegance, albeit a "tongue-in-chic" elegance.
The look: Tongue-in-cheek sophisticate
Silhouette: Ladylike vintage with knee-length proportions
Key items: The emerging trend for pleats manifested itself, with box-pleated skirts teamed with boxy cardigan jackets, or Argyle cashmere tank tops and twinsets. Simple shift dresses came with V-necklines and box-pleat skirts, or with gentle waist shaping, cut-in shoulderlines and a godet skirt. The mood changed with godet-trimmed camisole dresses and printed knits worked in a tattoo print with banded leather trims
Colour: After last season’s riff on black, Kane went back to his beloved neon palette, which he worked with an assured hand - zingy eye-searing shocking pinks, orange, lime, jade and sulphur yellow, undercut with espresso brown and more muted midtone brights in prints
Fabric & knit: Vinyl-coated laser-cut leather made to emulate lace, superfine lace, Swiss embroidered voile, embroidered voiles
Print & pattern: An oriental Japonesque tattoo print worked in midtone brights on wovens and knits. Tattoo-inspired embroidery placements
Details & trims: Vertical, diagonal and horizontal pintucks to emphasise design detailing, halternecks, cutouts, piping, applied banding details, embroidered appliqués
Footwear: High bi-colour platform sandals with contrast piping and ankle ties
Accessories: Simple narrow belts

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