Tisci in at Dior with Roitfeld? Elbaz still mentioned, MacGibbon axe rumours continue

Rumours have reached fever pitch around Riccardo Tisci with confirmation that he will take over from John Galliano at Dior expected imminently. LVMH has refused to confirm his appointment so far but, significantly, has not denied that he will move from his current role at Givenchy.
An immediate announcement of Galliano's successor is believed to have been prevented by French employment law which demands a strict process when an employee is fired.
Italian-born Tisci, who trained at London's Central Saint Martins, has stamped his style on Givenchy in recent years and has become a red carpet choice for many A-list celebrities. Tisci, 35, has only said that he is happy in his current post and has not commented on stories that ex-Vogue Paris editor Carine Roitfeld will be his stylist at the label.
Alber Elbaz, who has proved a major success at Lanvin in the years since he lost his YSL post, has also been tipped for the post, and his name is being more actively discussed today after some Lanvin staff were spotted crying yesterday. However, WGSN believes Elbaz is a perfect fit for Lanvin and still has much to do to expand that label. Meanwhile, rumours continue to swirl around Hannah MacGibbon with speculation her Chloe contract will not be renewed. Critics appear divided over the strength of her autumn/winter 2011/12 collection.

Read more »

Live From... Paris Fashion Week, Day 4

Christian Dior

            

There was no denying the emotional charge at Dior yesterday, from theatmospheric set – an ornate salon with ice-dusted mirrors bathed in an eerieblue light – to Sidney Toledano’s loaded speech, and the ensemble of atelierswho replaced the disgraced designer John Galliano for the final bow. Even thecollection seemed to lack the usual spirit, despite baring obvious Gallianohallmarks. This was a sad swan song for Galliano, perhaps best articulated bythe long and lingering kiss the final model blew out into the cold Parisianair. “The heart of the House of Dior, which beats unseen, is made up of itsteams and studios, of its seamstresses and craftsmen,” said Sidney Toledano.“What you are going to see now is the result of the extraordinary, creative andmarvellous efforts of these loyal, hardworking people.”

The look: Highway men and fair maidens

Silhouette: Flirty fit-and-flare, largely short and swingy

Key items: As ever with Galliano a historical influence is key,transpiring here as bow-trimmed knickerbockers and short pouffy bloomer shorts,sweeping maxi capes and coats, and off-the-shoulder velvet tops and dresses.But putting costume aside, there were short-and-swingy full or pleated skirtstopped with neat tailored jackets or flared princess coats, and oversizedT-shirt tops including one in pink-dyed python. Looks were also layered withfluffy fur or feathered jackets, and shrug-on hand-knit cardigans, whileflounces of tiered ruffles for baby-doll dresses and blouses added signatureromance. The deshabillé finale comprised typically negligée-inspired dresses inembroidered, tiered or millefeuille ruffled sheers

Colour: Intense Prussian blue with rich bordeaux red, loden greenand charcoal black; fresh skin pinks, a burst of canary yellow and a finale ofpoudré pales – sky, peach,boudoir pink, seafoam green, periwinkle and nude

Fabric & knit: Textured tweeds, bouclé, woolly plaids andtapestries; lustrous changeant velvet, taffeta and patterned jacquards;cashmere, pointelle knits, ribbon-threaded hand knits; soft leather, suede,luxe furs, pink-dyed python; watery silks, negligéesheers of chiffon, organza and tulle

Print & pattern: Flocked florals on taffeta, dainty creepingfloral stem on pale ground, micro repeats, diffused woven plaids

Details & trims: Plissétiers, lettuce-edge ruffles, bubble hems, balloon sleeves, a squared bib-front,capes and storm flaps on outerwear; tape trouser stripes, lace-insert stripes;beaded fringing, jet beading, twinkling micro embroideries, marabou-featherfronds, decorative ribbon running stitch

Footwear: Signature platform boots with buckled details - in ankleor over-the-knee lengths, multi-strap sandals with bows

Accessories: Floppy-brimmed fedoras, long knitted sleeves with furcuffs, fox-fur collars/stoles, fabric cuffs with cabochon stones; squashyunstructured leather bags, the Miss Dior in ridged suede or overstitchedmulticoloured tweed, small formal bags with chain straps

Lanvin

            

Alber Elbaz’s latest collection for Lanvin was the sum of two parts,with strict minimal tailoring morphing into full-blown romantic femininity,like a flower blooming after a long, austere winter, as his colour paletteshifted gear from deep monastic darks into warm, sun-filled brights.

The look: From winter into spring

Silhouette: The contrast of short and geometrically structured withminimal straight lines, to short and softly rounded

Key items: An opening passage of minimal tailoring came with simplerectangular shapes based on the collarless ¾ coat, the tunic and simpleknee-length skirt, all sporting horizontal seam lines and rounded shoulderlines.Short capes added a structured sense of volume, along with the floaty capesleeves on simple shift dresses and tops. Just-seen zips and reed-thin metal trimswere the only details apart from the collection’s extravagant jewellednecklaces and pins. The pace changed, as Elbaz introduced puffballs of gazarflowering at the shoulderline of a skinny knitted tube dress, that same corollaeffect appearing as a beautifully etched rose motif, worked as a placement oran all-over print. And slowly the colours warmed and the fabrics grew lighter,blossoming into a finale of couture-like pleats and graceful folds onflower-coloured cocktail dresses

Colour: A monastic palette of black and inky blue with grey,morphing through caramel and chestnut to vivid poppy, marigold, fuchsia andazalea pink

Fabric & knit: Fluid cashmeres for tailoring, leather,calfskin, broadtail, silk, snakeskin, silk gazar, lace, cloqué, satin

Print & pattern: A monochromatic rose print worked as aplacement motif or as an all-over repeat. A black and white spot pattern

Details & trims: Minimalist metal edging on tailoredsilhouettes, highlighting a front edge or pocket seam

Footwear: Flat mannish slip-ons, double ankle-strap heeled pumps,zipped ankle boots, long knee-length boots

Accessories: Dramatic rose-shaped necklaces, cuffs and brooches,sprinkled with gemstones; broad-brimmed felt hats, long gloves, intricateConstructivist collars

Roland Mouret

            

Roland Mouret expanded hisrepertoire this season, getting back into his stride adding casual jackets,some great pant shapes, easy coats and sumptuous furs to his roster ofsignature dresses. This season the latter took on a new more languid appealwith longer fluid silhouettes.

The look: Elegant femininity

Silhouette: Elongated and fluid

Key items: This season’s dresses came in elongated proportions,fluid skirts falling from a softly defined waist and alleviated by soft splithem details, with bodices featuring the designer’s signature manipulated dartsand seams or a gentle fan of pleats at the neckline. Longer pencil skirts tookthis almost vintage look to the max, teamed with military-style blousons for anew masculine/feminine appeal. Full-legged mannish pants and simple shirtsbrought a sporty tailored mood into play, along with soft shorts and leanmelanged knits. Shorter dress silhouettes bucked the languid mood before ashow-stopping evening gown in emerald green crepe de chine, its flirtybias-ruffled front traced with a snaking bronze zip

Colours: A subdued palette of olive, grey and black punctuated withrich brights – think old gold, grenadine, cornflower blue and emerald

Fabric & knit: Slubby tweed, pinstripe wools, bonded jersey, cashmere,self-coloured brocade, feathered fox

Print & pattern: A small-scale micro floral in black and white

Details & trims: Manipulated darts and seams, fan pleats at theneck of soft dresses and blouses, applied crystal trims, ribbed welts onblouson jackets

Footwear: Classic high-heeled T-bars

Issey Miyake

            

In a day of departures, creative director Dai Fujiwara stepped downfrom the helm at Issey Miyake. But there was no scandal and no fanfare, just asimple rondo played out on three pianos, slowly building as the collectiongathered pace. Opening with an installation performance, where assistantsfolded widths of paper tape into the templates of five pieces, they were thenjoined on stage with the fabric versions. It was a quiet insight into the conceptand underpinning work behind the winter collection.

The look: Conceptual construction

Silhouette: Blouson volume with peaked points and handkerchiefdrapes

Key items: Naturally for a winter season, outerwear was a key focus,and included a pair of slim-fitting tailored coats in zigzags or the blendedhoundstooth/herringbone jacquard, padded coats and jackets with a high neckcreated from an in-built scarf detail, a couple of soft-structure coats – onewith a caped layer and wide sleeves, the other a slouchy leather wrap coat. Wealso saw a series of cropped jackets, boleros or mini gilets in various formsincluding padded, in signature Miyake micro pleats or as a simple waist-knottedshirt. Blouson pants with outwardlypeaked points at the thigh were also transposed into bloomer-like shorts, whiledress options included a simple dropped-waist jersey dress with a zigzaggedtape-ribbon skirt and a halterneck pieced together with point-hung handkerchiefsquares

Colour: Tonal greys with solid black, Kelly green, poppy red, royalblue and burnt orange, with tan and butterscotch-coloured leathers

Fabric & knit: Silk, padded ciré, wool, tartan, cotton, suppleleather, stretchy mesh knit, coarse canvas, organza sheers andhoundstooth/herringbone jacquards

Print & pattern: The key pattern was inspired by Escher’s work Verbum,resulting in an overblown and pixellated houndstooth check that morphs into atulip pattern and then into herringbone. A further mix of prints and weaves includedzigzags, geometric knits, a scratch print, painterly strokes and a grayscaleblurred effect

Details & trims: Folded peplums, handkerchief squares hung onthe point

Footwear: Chunky clog boots and shoes

Accessories: Mesh knit leggings, degradé or patterned hosiery; widebelts made of patent-leather-interlocked paillettes; faux-fur sleeves andmatching snood

Maison Martin Margiela

            

After last season’s stiff sandwich boards and tongue-in-cheek sun-tanlines, the latest offer from MMM was something more - dare we say it? - understandable.This time the concept was a build-up of layers, which were partly revealed whenunzipped or peeled away, but putting this modular dressing aside for a moment,there was a new softer element of note, with ditsy floral prints, sensualdrapes and a delicate lace print.

The look: Conceptual layering

Silhouette: Deconstructed layers and peel-away panels, largelycolumnar silhouettes

Key items: While the show was meant to be an exploration of thedress, the collection offered much more than that, with knitted twinsets,maxiskirts paired with casual sweatshirts, biker jackets and coats withdetachable panels, and, of course, the aforementioned dresses. To be precise,they were coat-dresses that unzipped at the sides or peeled away from poppersat the front to reveal glimpses of other items layered underneath, such asshifts, midi skirts or spaghetti-strapped tops. Elsewhere there were softlydraped dresses that looked particularly fresh for the label, as did the silkT-shirt dress printed with a delicate trompe l’oeil lace trim

Colours: Rich plum, cranberry, papal purple, pine green, grey andsky blue

Fabric & knit: Wool, felt, velvet, super-glossy patent leather,bonded neoprene, jersey sweatshirting, silk, Lurex, rabbit, shaved mink

Print & pattern: Dainty florals, trompe l’oeil lace

Details & trims: Long coordinated belts, sheer overlays, lowscooping backs, zip slits, uneven slouchy drapes, long plissé, detachable panels

Footwear: Sock boots comprised stockings pulled over shoes, whichfeatured a detached sole and shoe

Accessories: Elongated clutch bags, fold-over clutch bags; earcuffs, gold knuckle-duster rings; long unzipped gloves with the sleeve hangingloose

Vivienne Westwood

            

In an emotionally charged day in Paris, Vivienne Westwood brightenedforlorn fashion souls with an incredibly upbeat show full of glitter, sequinsand bursts of gold confetti. Her aim was to present strong women who werecapable of carrying her political torch, hence the military helmets, Kabukiwarrior-style make-up and lashings of gold, which she said resembled “powerfulgodliness”. “At first there was no colour because I just wanted strong shapes, andfor people to concentrate on the clothes, but then I added gold because it is astory about the triumph of women, and gold symbolises the gods, bringing uscloser to the power of Olympus,” said Westwood.

The look: Fierce femininity

Silhouette: Slouchy blouson volume, signature swags and drapes

Key items: Pants were loose and slouchy with a twisted fit, whichfollowed through to signature swagged dresses, this time updated with sleevesin mismatched lengths. Skirts were typically either pencils or tulips, and wereworn as part of a nipped-waist tailleur, or with poplin blouses featuringpeaked shoulders and leg-of-mutton sleeves and ruffled jabot. Elsewhere therewere wrap-around maxis and midi skirts with paper-bag waists, teamed withcommercial tops or sweatshirts and some red-carpet-worthy gowns, including anuncharacteristically simple one-shouldered black option and a full-on goldsequinned bandeau column

Colour: Gold, gold and more gold, with nuances of fawn, warm mink,creamy beige, faux nude and soft peach, with tonal, dirtied or dusted greys andpunchy hits of fiery orange and cool turquoise

Fabric & knit: Herringbone bouclé tweed, wool, hand knits in marled yarns, classic pinstripeand simple cotton poplin, printed velvet, taffeta, silk, tulle, jacquards,all-over gold sequins, painted denim, metallic coated foils

Print & pattern: Baroque florals, a fiery red Aztec pattern,mosaic print with primitive figure, hand-drawn stripes, stylised leopard spots,heraldic bird graphic in a silhouette placement

Details & trims: Random jacquard pockets placed on rustic knitsweater, bubble-shaped crinoline, trailing scarves, paper-bag waists, lashingsof gold sequins, embroidered coin spots, mismatched sleeve lengths, exaggeratedleg-of-mutton sleeves and peaked shoulders

Footwear: Gold and silver sequinned courts and ankle boots withmetal kitten heel, over-the-knee boots in pieced brocade

Accessories: Baguette clutch in croc, wide printed canvas shopper,gold sequinned rucksack; gold and diamanté bijoux jewellery including cuffs, ornate necklaces andoversized earrings; military-esque cloche helmets

Yohji Yamamoto

            

The upcoming V&A retrospective of Yohji Yamamoto’s 30 years at thehelm of fashion’s avant-garde could have been a clue to the concept behind hisautumn/winter showing, as the ever-young designer moved seamlessly between 80spunk references and his signature historical romantic sensibility.

The look: Deshabillé punkEdwardiana

Silhouette: Elongated and tubular contrasted with subtle hourglass

Key items: The mesh tube dress underpinned the collection, as thedesigner added and subtracted sheer flower-patterned overlayers, bunchy pleatedskirts, fluttering asymmetric-hemmed tunics, cutaway corsets, punky knits andwaisted hourglass coats. A more romantic sensibility came into play with hoopedcrinoline skirts, caught up to reveal ravaged lace hosiery or cut away intoskeletal formations, that same romantic mood moving through to a collection ofasymmetric LBDs, ruffled and pintucked, and worn with Edwardian-styled shouldercapes

Colour: A focused palette of black, grey and khaki, with vividaccents of grenadine and blood red

Fabric & knit: Sheer meshes, mesh jersey, tulle, georgette,silk, canvas, sturdy wools, leather, velvet and lace, punky loosely structuredknits

Print & pattern: A monochromatic flower motif worked as overblownscale placements, a tie-dye-effect placement and a concentric spot pattern, allon sheers and mesh

Details & trims: Asymmetric hems

Footwear: Sturdy laced military boots in black, grey or red

Accessories: Intricate lace, mesh or printed hosiery, long gloves

Isabel Marant

            

Isabel Marant continued to mine Americana influences for herautumn/winter showing, drawing on North American Navajos and life on the GreatPlains, with her borrowed-from-the-boys denim and cocooning outerwear shapes.It was commercial and it was well conceived, but it seemed to miss the beatthat is underscoring next season’s trends.

The look: Cowgirls and Indian squaws

Silhouette: Cocooning versus body-con

Key items: Oversized outerwear had a borrowed-from-the-boys feel,with big cocooning parkas and mannish jackets layered over a parade of denimpatchwork shirts and jeans, nylon puffas and cabled or Navajo-patterned fringedknits. Vividly coloured Lurex body-con dresses added a more sexy vibe, alongwith wrapped sweater dresses, maybe to team with a sleeveless tuxedo jacket fora masculine/feminine vibe. A photoreal feather print and suede fringed Pocahontasdresses were perhaps an Indian squaw look too far, but the jeans andpatchworked cabans should keep Marant fans happy next season

Colour: All shades of denim blue with winter white, grey and accentsof pine, electric blue, red and navy

Fabric & knit: Cocooning shearlings, goat, mannish tweeds andblanket wools will stave off those prairie winds, layered over suede, crochetknits, puffa nylons, Lurex knits and embroidered lace-like mesh

Print & pattern: Navajo-inspired motifs as prints andembroidery placements; a photoreal feather print

Details & trims: Fringing details, patchwork

Footwear: Wedged runkled knee-high boots with flaying fringes

Accessories: Feather pendant necklaces

Read more »

Galliano fired by Dior

John Galliano’s 15-year reign as the creative head of luxury fashion house Christian Dior is over. The LVMH-owned brand sacked its star designer today following further allegations of racist rants.

Galliano, who had been suspended late last week after an altercation in a Paris cafe shortly before fashion week started, has denied all allegations against him and has launched legal action in his defence.
However, videos purporting to show him making racists comments have been circulating online and made his firing ever more likely.

In a short statement, Dior CEO Sidney Toledano, criticised “in the strongest terms” Galliano’s words and actions “which are in total contradiction with the essential values that have always been defended by the Christian Dior house.”

Dior has “immediately suspended relations” with Galliano and begun “dismissal procedures,” as a result of a video obtained by a UK tabloid newspaper apparently showing the designer saying in a slurred voice that “I love Hitler” and other anti-Semitic comments.

Galliano is still believed to be under police investigation for the incident. Dior did not comment on whether it would show Galliano’s autumn/winter 2011/12 later this week. Actress Natalie Portman, who recently signed a contract to be the face of the Miss Dior Chérie perfume, said in a statement: “In light of this video, and as an individual who is proud to be Jewish, I will not be associated with Mr Galliano in any way.”

Galliano’s lawyer, Stéphane Zerbib, has not commented about the video but so far has said his client denies all accusations and has questioned the motives of a second complainant who has made claims of an earlier racist incident.

Read more »

Live from... Paris Haute Couture, Day 1

Dior

It is the perfect fit - René Gruau’s drawings for Dior as inspiration, and Galliano’s individual ability to create true couture. The result was a wondrous collection that brought the haute genre right back to its roots. 

The look: Perfect couture
Silhouette: Classic New Look - nipped waists and flared skirts
Key items: Non-matching tailleurs with wide pleated circle skirts or pencil skirts cut just below the knee, and cinched-waist jackets with plunging shawl collars; an emerald-green skirt suit with bateau-neck jacket featuring a puffed peplum; a tulle layered swing coat; signature swagged tops and tailored dresses; strapless bandeau gowns that flare or puff from the waist in clouds of silk or frothy layers of tulle
Colour: Scarlet, fuchsia, emerald and honeyed gold with white.Colour-washed pastels - lemon, sky, mint and candy pink
Fabric & knit: Layered tulle, shantung, washed silk, organza, marabou and ostrich feathers
Print & pattern: Galliano turned his back on print to recreate Gruau’s style in embellishment and decorationDetails & trims: Sequined sketch marks and brush strokes, a micro-beaded diamond pattern, a sprinkled leopard spot in seed-bead embroidery and embroidered flower sprays; appliqué flowers and roses, large covered buttons, degradé effects created by layered tulle, crisp pleats; frothy graduated cascade ruffle hems, balloon hems; sculpted swags, gathers and twists, puffed shoulders and sleeves
Footwear: Peep-toe sandals with criss-cross or double Mary Jane straps
Accessories: Mismatched gloves to coordinate with degradé dresses; sheer gloves, demi veils, alligator-skin wrap belts; Stephen Jones millinery

Giorgio Armani Privé

Two seasons ago, Giorgio Armani travelled to the moon for couture inspiration, and for spring 2011 he was back in space with a collection of galactic girls who looked ready to party at Saturn’s answer to Studio 54. 

The look: A space odyssey
Silhouette: Long, lean and layered
Key items: Leggings worn under dresses and skirt suits, the latter comprising softly pleated tulip skirts and zipped jackets with squared shoulders or edge-to-edge options with cutaway collars; high-waisted flat-front bell-bottom pants worn with silky shell tops and cutaway jackets; caped dresses and cape-sleeved jackets; a jumpsuit with bandage-wrapped torso; split-waist dresses and bandeau column gowns
Colour: Scarlet red, kingfisher and midnight blues, ultraviolet, pistachio green, pearl white and shimmering black - all metallic or iridescent
Fabric & knit: Techno textiles - mirror-effect organza, iridescent gazars, metal-threaded silks, micro-check jacquard, coated synthetics, polished alligator leather, metallic satin
Print & pattern: Broken stripes, degradé effects
Details & trims: Heat-treated and embossed/blistered textures, petrol-shimmer paillettes, beaded fringing, cutaway sections revealing embellished under-layers, caped sleeves
Footwear: Low-cut pointed courts
Accessories: Faceted gemstone bracelets and breast-plate necklaces, resin cuffs, chandelier earrings, long plunging jewelled-fringe necklaces; disc and flying-saucer hats; faceted clutch bags and a small structured handheld shopper in alligator leather

Alexis Mabille

Alexis Mabille played with mirror images and the ideas of light and dark, plain or patterned with a collection comprising 10 exits, each followed by an alternative version.

The look: Seeing double
Silhouette: Floor-sweeping, flared or bias column
Key items: Capri pant suit with short ruffled peplum jacket featuring a bow-back collar; a dipped hem square-cut tabard dress; sheer opera coats; long-sleeved flare-skirted gowns with plunging neckline; a bias one-shoulder maxi tent dress; halterneck fishtail column gowns
Colour: White and black, scarlet, midnight blue; combinations of bois de rose with bordeaux and pine green with sky blue
Fabric & knit: Duchesse, watery silks, organza, lace, chiffon
Print & pattern: A delicate tinted lace gave the illusion of floral print
Details & trims: Satin bows, creeping stem flower appliqués spilling over hems and necklines, caped sleeves, densely embroidered all-over floral in gold with flecks of pastel pink and turquoise on black ground
Footwear: Satin shoes with a lattice-woven toe case
Accessories: Long buttoned gloves, ornate neck duster earrings, knotted belts, clutch bags

Read more »

Live From... Paris Fashion Week, Day 3

Lanvin

            

With their slicked-back hair and bold confident stride down therunway, the models at Lanvin were every inch the modern glamzonian,perfectly mirroring the collection’s out-and-proud body-con silhouettesand modern-day goddess drapes.

The look: Modern glamazon
Silhouette: Strict body-con softened with billowing goddess drapes and dramatically exaggerated A-line shapes
Key items: Slick body-con skirts and racer-back tanks set thescene for second-skin dresses, sometimes in plissé silk or in densestretch with soft asymmetric silk drape details. Skater skirts featuredzippered trims, and there was a passage of elongated layers, withtunics and leggings worked under pared-down coat dresses. Billowingsilk skirts and long ankle-skimming sheaths took that elongatedsilhouette to the max, and for evening a series of gladiatorcastellated hem skirts and dresses, heavily embellished with metaltrims
Colour: Colour mirrored the strong silhouettes, from warmtobacco and manilla browns to espresso and black, through soft smokeand taupe and into a palette of clashing brights - acid yellow,fuchsia, peacock, orange and violet
Fabric & knit: Dense stretch, paper-thin nylons, tissue-thin silks and plissés, silky satin charmeuse
Print & pattern: A single feathery palm-leaf print on black ground charmeuse
Details & trims: Intense metalwork embellishment, exposed zippers
Footwear: Metal cuffs clasped the ankle of high sandals with cut-out wedges; flat sandals with metal stud trim; high snakeskin sandals
Accessories: Raw leather harness/belts, double-pronged belts,cutout cuffs, leather chokers with jewelled embellishment,long-strapped satchels, chain-trimmed briefcases

Roland Mouret

            

Roland Mouret was in a buoyant mood yesterday, happy to be showingunder his own name once again. "When I lost my name I dared not imaginethat this day would ever come," read his show notes. This rebirthundoubtedly effected his summer collection, with an upbeat palette ofblue-green brights and a return to his trademark power-tailored dresses.
"The lines were very simple - it was simple symmetry," Roland Mouret told WGSN.
The look: A refreshed signature
Silhouette: Long and lean with asymmetric angles
Key items: Signature tailored sheath dresses in midi-lengthswith patch pockets at the hips and folded shoulders or cut-awaynecklines exposing the décolletage; wide cropped pants worn with breezyopen shirts and spaghetti-strapped diamond-pieced silk camisoles; crispkhaki shorts and a short angular-cut utility flak jackets, sometimessleeveless; unstructured pyjama or kimono jackets, a chartreuse mididress cut away from the body and slightly twisted to fit, with verticalfins running its length
Colour: Invigorating marine brights of royal blue, chartreuse,aqua and vivid teal against moss green, navy and black, and neutrals ofstone, khaki or flax
Fabric & knit: Parachute silk, crepe, techno canvas, doublewool crepe, double-faced zibeline, fine-gauge cashmere, ikat jacquard,seersucker, stretch denim, cotton cord, double-faced viscose, stretchfaille, ripple-effect plissé
Print & pattern: A moss green and white bubble print with tonal veining and delicate dappled ground that has a subtle Eastern influence
Details & trims: Fan-pleated necklines, kimonosleeves, caped backs, contrast turn-ups, darted cap sleeves, engineereddarts, hidden stretch shaping, cowl backs, vertical fins, wide armholescreating a batwing drape
Footwear: Wooden-soled platform peep toes with chunky heel

Issey Miyake

            

Dai Fujiwara is a conceptual designer who likes to weave playfulnarratives into his complexly innovative and experimental fabricdevelopments. For Issey Miyake this season, he spun a ghost story intohis print and fabric directions.
"The inspiration comes from space and fog, where white, with a strong shadow, turns to black," Dai Fujiwara told WGSN.
The look: Experimental
Silhouette: Varied, with emphasis on swing shapes and elongated drapes
Key items: Dropped-crotch pants and voluminous dhotis; croppedutility pants; kimono-sleeved cocoon coats; blouson parkas withcrumpled leather sleeves; drapey waterfall gilets; square-cut dresses;embroidered organza capes; silk T-shirt dress with laser-cut petals atthe yoke; long-line tunic tops; micro-pleated swing tops and bouncydresses; micro-pleated form-fitting suit; spaghetti-strapped halterblouse with soft cowl
Colour: Passages of black, white and mid-tone grayscale openedand closed the show; in the middle came primary red and yellow withturquoise, flashes of citric brights and a straw-coloured neutral
Fabric & knit: An innovative new superfine mesh that, whenlayered, creates a swirling moiré effect, degradé effects achievedthrough a graduation weave, Meisen silk (warp is hand-brushed beforebeing woven) in giant check, silk, satin, iridescent organza, paperynylons, 3D-textured crochet, knitted plastic mesh, woven multicolourchecks, slashed knit stitches, crumpled leather
Print & pattern: Trompe l'oeil basket-weave wicker,humbug stripes, bleached or burnt dye effects, placement eye graphics,a smoky vapour plume - said to resemble the Japanese devil Oni's hair -created by a rare and highly specialised Kyoto dyeing method calledYuzen, using long single strokes
Details & trims: Springy micro pleats, sculpted micropleating in a honeycomb effect, short fringing, handkerchief hems andasymmetric drapes, large silver discs, floral embroideries
Footwear: Low cut-away wedges mules, flat pumps with pointed toes
Accessories: Slouchy sporty across-body bags, conical mesh hats, leather sash belts

Maison Martin Margiela

            

The Margiela name - even without its originator - is synonymous withquirky concepts sent to reconfigure the way we think about fashion, andsometimes even poke fun at it. This season continued in the same vein,with pieces stretched across sandwich boards, laying bare theirmasculinity at the front and shapely feminine figure at the rear.
The look: Masculine-feminine
Silhouette: Columnar lengths, rectangular panels
Key items: Expropriated menswear items such as classicbutton-down shirts updated with vertical fins on the sleeves, andmannish oversized blazers and wide-cut pants. Tight low-high skirts,columnar maxi at the front, knee-length pencil at the back;flesh-coloured second-skin long-sleeved tops and bodysuits withillusionary bikini tan lines; a five-zip leather jacket and browntuxedo; cape-sleeved funnel-neck camel coat or a classic beige trench -both with flat boards at the front; midi-length tube dress with drapedvelvet detail stretched across the flat board
Colour: Grey, silver, sky blue, milk white, faux nude, chocolate brown, midnight blue and bright fuchsia
Fabric & knit: Lycra jersey, stretch mesh, shavedvelvet, glitter knits, cotton shirting, tonal check jacquard, slickedleather, merino and cashmere wool
Details & trims: Beetle-like sequins, vacuum-sealed crinkles
Footwear: Patent high-heeled courts with an illusionary sunken platform creating a raised guard around the toes
Accessories: Lucite tie box clutch, Perspex collar/bib necklacederived from a jewellery stand, watches and bracelets still on theirblack velvet display stands, shoulder-strapped camera bags in leather,resized travel cases as clutch bags

Christian Dior

            

For summer 2011, John Galliano weighed anchor in the South Pacific,where jaunty sailors mingled with exotic beauties against a tropicalsunset. With a late-40s slant, the collection hit upon themasculine-feminine interplay seen elsewhere this season.
The look: Hello sailor!
Silhouette: Short and swingy
Key items: Nautical outerwear items such as cotton parkas,a leather DB reefer and a masculine donkey jacket worn over shortflippy dresses; masculine combos such as the navy cotton bomber jacketworn with rolled chinos; matelot-buttoned wide-leg sailor pants;sarong-inspired halter dresses; crochet dresses with knot-and-tasselhems; flirty godet rara miniskirts; a one-shouldered printed playsuit;portrait-collared peplum jacket or puff-sleeved tailored top, bothresting off-the-shoulder; a series of sheer gowns for evening, withfeather-decorated halternecks
Colour: Nautical navy, white and mid-tone denim blue witha tropical burst of bougainvillea pink, sunset orange, citric lime,turquoise, violet, scarlet red and sunny egg-yolk yellow
Fabric & knit: Nubuck leathers, cotton, nautical knits with reef-knot crochet stitches, silk jersey, knitted silks, lace, tulle, chiffon
Print & pattern: Tropical florals including palmleaves, hibiscus and orchid blooms; dip-dyed hems; a diffused andspeckled linear star pattern in denim blue on white
Details & trims: Reef knots, embroidered flowers,starburst embroidery pattern, sheer ruffles, flower pompoms, clippedribbons, lace insets, feathers, coral and shell embroideries
Footwear: Buckled ankle boots with over-turned slouch socks;ribbon or rope-tied platform espadrille high-heeled sandals, some withfeathered cuffs and blanket-stitch detailing
Accessories: Organza garland belts and necklaces, knotted ropenecklaces, doughboy sailor caps, cats-eye sunglasses, oversizedaviators, leather fringed bags, oversized duffel bag with chunky ropedrawcord, quilted Lady Dior bags with across-body shoulder strap, LadyDior in coarse raw-edged canvas or orange and pink python 

Isabel Marant

            

It may be more high street than high fashion, but that doesn't stopIsabel Marant being one of the most sought-after labels around - andfor summer she didn't disappoint, with her sunkissed and verybelievable collection of easy casualwear.

The look: California dreaming
Silhouette: Short and sexy with easy borrowed-from-the-boys tops
Key items: Thigh-high cut-offs and flirty ruffled raras uppedthe sassy quota, teamed with boyfriend-friendly check shirts andstriped rugbies, while second-skin cropped jeans with laced fly detailscame teamed with mesh vests or fisherman Arans and baseball jackets.Other key items included cropped boxy jackets, striped twinsets,hoodies and crochet dresses
Colour: Black and white offered a graphic play to a paletteof pale sunblush pinks shading through to deep sunset reds andpurple-cast amethyst
Fabric & knit: Basic casualwear fabrics such as drill,check shirtings, marl and striped twills, combined with floaty sheers,washed silk and sequins. Fine-gauge striped knits, recoloured cottonArans, crochet
Print & pattern: A bandanna-inspired all-over, pretty florals on coloured grounds
Details & trims: Lacing details
Footwear: Slouchy suede boots with beaded trim; two-tone stilettos with ankle cuffs
Accessories: Friendship bracelets and necklaces, striped belts, leather belts

Yohji Yamamoto

            

Yohji Yamamoto has always marched to a solitary beat, and for nextsummer he imbedded a punky rocker vibe into his signature brand ofpoetic romance.

The look: Edwardiana punk
Silhouette: Elongated and hourglass or elongated easy layers
Key items: The dress was the key feature of this collection,worked as a swagged crinnie or an hourglass bustier with asymmetricdrapes, to easy long-line shifts and shirtdresses with handkerchiefhems. Fitted shirts, draped bra tops and neat jackets topped crinnieskirts - all layered over skinny black or vibrantly printed leggings.And for the final exit, an inflated nylon skirt with a slogan teeproclaiming: This Is Me
Colour: The designer’s signature black, highlighted with deep purple, acid yellow and khaki
Fabric & knit: Floaty sheers tethered by compact cottons, satin charmeuse and jersey
Print & pattern: A vivid punk psychedelic print on jersey. A simple repeat slogan: This Is Me
Details & trims: Asymmetric drapes
Footwear: Chunky combat boots; flat thong sandals
Accessories: Edwardiana hats and long fringed stoles

Vivienne Westwood

            

Vivienne Westwood continued to bang her drum on ethical issues,combining her signature historically inspired silhouettes with a visionof an apocalyptic future. The jury is out on whether she got hermessage across.

The look: The past meets the future
Silhouette: Bunched and layered underpinned with the hourglass of historical costume drama
Key items: A procession of mismatched items, from soft wrapshorts to heart-shaped bustiers, boxy tunics and jackets, short wrapskirts, zigzag-hem skirts, cropped slouch pants, toga drapes andpaper-bag-waist crinnies, with a singular louche plaid bathrobe coatand sweeping taffeta skirts for evening
Colour: The palette was as mismatched as the silhouettes,with a mixed-media medley of orange and yellow, cornflower and sand,blood red, summer tans and old golds
Fabric & knit: A recycling mood was in the air, withsteeped and stained ticking, multicolour stripes, seersucker stripes,plaids on sheer grounds, tree-bark silks, metallic knits, chiffon,taffeta and satin
Print & pattern: Stained patterns, spatter prints, graphic logos, tie-dye, furnishing florals and a fresco print
Details & trims: Fringed and zigzag hems as though cut with giant pinking sheers
Footwear: Canvas shooties trimmed with raw leather straps, laced Edwardiana boots in canvas or metallic leather, ankle-strap sandals
Accessories: Leather belts, big hobo bags in printed canvas,satin paper-boy bags, belts stamped with “Fragile” logo, striped bracesand knee-high socks

Read more »