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Dior
It is the perfect fit - René Gruau’s drawings for Dior as inspiration, and Galliano’s individual ability to create true couture. The result was a wondrous collection that brought the haute genre right back to its roots.
The look: Perfect couture
Silhouette: Classic New Look - nipped waists and flared skirts
Key items: Non-matching tailleurs with wide pleated circle skirts or pencil skirts cut just below the knee, and cinched-waist jackets with plunging shawl collars; an emerald-green skirt suit with bateau-neck jacket featuring a puffed peplum; a tulle layered swing coat; signature swagged tops and tailored dresses; strapless bandeau gowns that flare or puff from the waist in clouds of silk or frothy layers of tulle
Colour: Scarlet, fuchsia, emerald and honeyed gold with white.Colour-washed pastels - lemon, sky, mint and candy pink
Fabric & knit: Layered tulle, shantung, washed silk, organza, marabou and ostrich feathers
Print & pattern: Galliano turned his back on print to recreate Gruau’s style in embellishment and decorationDetails & trims: Sequined sketch marks and brush strokes, a micro-beaded diamond pattern, a sprinkled leopard spot in seed-bead embroidery and embroidered flower sprays; appliqué flowers and roses, large covered buttons, degradé effects created by layered tulle, crisp pleats; frothy graduated cascade ruffle hems, balloon hems; sculpted swags, gathers and twists, puffed shoulders and sleeves
Footwear: Peep-toe sandals with criss-cross or double Mary Jane straps
Accessories: Mismatched gloves to coordinate with degradé dresses; sheer gloves, demi veils, alligator-skin wrap belts; Stephen Jones millinery
Giorgio Armani Privé
Two seasons ago, Giorgio Armani travelled to the moon for couture inspiration, and for spring 2011 he was back in space with a collection of galactic girls who looked ready to party at Saturn’s answer to Studio 54.
The look: A space odyssey
Silhouette: Long, lean and layered
Key items: Leggings worn under dresses and skirt suits, the latter comprising softly pleated tulip skirts and zipped jackets with squared shoulders or edge-to-edge options with cutaway collars; high-waisted flat-front bell-bottom pants worn with silky shell tops and cutaway jackets; caped dresses and cape-sleeved jackets; a jumpsuit with bandage-wrapped torso; split-waist dresses and bandeau column gowns
Colour: Scarlet red, kingfisher and midnight blues, ultraviolet, pistachio green, pearl white and shimmering black - all metallic or iridescent
Fabric & knit: Techno textiles - mirror-effect organza, iridescent gazars, metal-threaded silks, micro-check jacquard, coated synthetics, polished alligator leather, metallic satin
Print & pattern: Broken stripes, degradé effects
Details & trims: Heat-treated and embossed/blistered textures, petrol-shimmer paillettes, beaded fringing, cutaway sections revealing embellished under-layers, caped sleeves
Footwear: Low-cut pointed courts
Accessories: Faceted gemstone bracelets and breast-plate necklaces, resin cuffs, chandelier earrings, long plunging jewelled-fringe necklaces; disc and flying-saucer hats; faceted clutch bags and a small structured handheld shopper in alligator leather
Alexis Mabille
Alexis Mabille played with mirror images and the ideas of light and dark, plain or patterned with a collection comprising 10 exits, each followed by an alternative version.
The look: Seeing double
Silhouette: Floor-sweeping, flared or bias column
Key items: Capri pant suit with short ruffled peplum jacket featuring a bow-back collar; a dipped hem square-cut tabard dress; sheer opera coats; long-sleeved flare-skirted gowns with plunging neckline; a bias one-shoulder maxi tent dress; halterneck fishtail column gowns
Colour: White and black, scarlet, midnight blue; combinations of bois de rose with bordeaux and pine green with sky blue
Fabric & knit: Duchesse, watery silks, organza, lace, chiffon
Print & pattern: A delicate tinted lace gave the illusion of floral print
Details & trims: Satin bows, creeping stem flower appliqués spilling over hems and necklines, caped sleeves, densely embroidered all-over floral in gold with flecks of pastel pink and turquoise on black ground
Footwear: Satin shoes with a lattice-woven toe case
Accessories: Long buttoned gloves, ornate neck duster earrings, knotted belts, clutch bags
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