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Z Zegna
The look: Film noir-inspired 40s masculinity
Silhouette: Wedge - broad shoulders and tapered legs, oversized outerwear
Key items: Overblown coats in bonded techno fabrics, broad-shouldered DB suits, 40s-style tapered pants and abbreviated jackets with wide lapels are the key elements; other highlights include a shrunken cable-knit sweater, hooded windcheater top, knitted four-pocket zip-through jacket, parkas and belted macs in winter wool
Colour: Charcoal, yellow manila, golden tan, loden green, petrol blue and layered greys
Fabric & knit: Signature techno fabrics including a bonded leather that resembles neoprene and weather-proofed wool, fluffy mohair, felted wool, flannel, wool plaid and gingham checks
Details & trims: Western shirt details, spliced textiles
Footwear: Teddy Boy-style shoes with crimped soles, either slip-on or featuring a double-buckle monk strap
Accessories: Wide ties, belt bags, slim top-handled attachés, boxy luggage-style bags
DSquared
A small collection of just 31 looks offers a distilled message from the DSquared boys this season. Stripping away their usual flamboyance, Dean and Dan Caten drive home their jeans-shirt-jacket mantra for autumn/winter by stating it over and over again.
The look: Distilled DSquared
Silhouette: Stocky torsos with tapered legs
Key items: A small collection built on separates, the essential pieces comprising slim tapered jeans (some with twisted seams), a shirt in three options - classic white, blue-white striped with puritanical narrow collars, and plaid for a more casual look - are all worn with an unstructured and crumpled blazer; waistcoats and aprons act as layering pieces and long-rise leather pants offer an alternative to jeans; tailored coats arrive as fur-collared DBs or nipped-waist 3SB Crombies, while a hybrid jacket made up of a tailored wool blazer with leather biker closure, a grey cable knit sweater and a dark denim bib-front shirt are also notable
Colour: Limited to black, white, grey and faded denim blue. A single shot of khaki arrives as a casual cotton waistcoat, while cranberry-coloured scarves serve as an occasional accent
Fabric & knit: Wool blends, flannel, leather, faded and crumpled denim, plaid shirtings – some diffused, cotton, cable stitch knitPrint & pattern: Plaid shirting
Details & trims: Leather sleeves on wool coats, twisted jean seams, ruffled shirt placket, narrow collars and revers
Footwear: Ski-hook walking boots in scuffed brown leather, polished black lace-up brogues
Accessories: Fedoras with tall crowns, neckerchiefs, striped scarves, low-slung studded belts, clusters of pin badges, buckled braces, gauntlet gloves, black-framed optical
Neil Barrett
The commercial success of the "megging" (man-legging) is questionable, but the super-skinny pant offered by Barrett allows focus to fall on his strong outerwear and knitwear offer.
The look: Slick urbanwear
Silhouette: Straight and columnar, occasionally shrinking to skinny
Key items: Three trouser shapes underpin the collection – pieced neoprene-and-leather leggings, skinny tailored and tapered trousers and a voluminous 40s-style pegged pant stopping short of the ankle; outerwear staples include wide DB pea coats, slim-fit baseball jackets, funnel-neck bikers and long-line cardigan-coats; knitwear offers horizontally banded crew-neck sweaters in contrast-knit stitches, spliced striped sweaters and granddad-style Henleys; creative separates include a pieced 2SB blazer, an abbreviated parka with long fur trim and shorn sheepskin tops
Colour: Tough black, warm milk white, navy blue and flecked mid-tone greys
Fabric & knit: Neoprene, leather, flannel, pinstripe, pieced knits, shearling and rabbit
Print & pattern: Degradé knits, spliced striped knits
Details & trims: Leather shoulder patches, double-layer shawl collar, spliced and pieced constructions, topstitching
Footwear: Chunky-soled lace-up army boots with a bulbous heavy-duty toe
Accessories: Fingerless gloves, coiled knitted scarves
Giorgio Armani
Titled Remix en Gris, the winter collection from Giorgio Armani fuses his two signatures – sophistication and sport - resulting in series of hybrid pieces, such as tailored jogging bottoms, quilted waistcoats and nylon suits.
The look: Remix sports-meets-sophistication
Silhouette: Broad and masculine, longer-length coats
Key items: Naturally there is a strong emphasis on tailoring in signature comfort fits – either wide straight-legged pants or a more voluminous double-pleat option with broad-cut suit jackets; a strong sportswear influence is also evident with jersey suits, tailored jogging bottoms, thick quilted puffa jackets and secondskin fine-gauge knit tops that resemble cycling jerseys; long-length overcoats reach below the knee and options include a button-tabbed duffel, a military-esque khaki great coat with wide cloverleaf lapels and tailored DB option in silver satin; layering pieces included funnel-neck shirts, edged waistcoats (US: vests) or formal shirts-and-ties
Colour: Signature inky blues and steely silver-greys make up the core palette, while for evening jet black is punctuated with violet, hot pink and orange for shirts
Fabric & knit: Lustrous wool mohair and silk wool suitings, micro-patterned jacquards, heritage suitings including chalkstripe, plaid checks and a grainy windowpane; flannel, jersey, satin, silk velvet, cashmere blends, sporty techno nylons and quilted down-filled nylons, signature exotic leathers, plush furs and brushed suede
Details & trims: Feature revers including extra-wide clover leaf and notched shawls; quilting - diamond, horizontal banding and a Chesterfield style; concealed DB fastenings, popper-fastened suits
Footwear: Wide round-toed derby, tall lace-up boots, tasselled slip-ons with a polished/rubbed toe
Accessories: Unstructured leather totes, formal top-handled square north-south bags, leather gloves, round-framed sunglasses
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