4:27 AM
admin
Elie Saab
A new demure look from the Hollywood A-listers’ favourite couturier, as red-carpet glamour got the fragile feminine treatment in a palette of watercolour pales and deliciously decorative but understated fabrics.
The look: Delicate femininity
Silhouette: Soft folds and drapes falling from a natural waistline or a higher-set waist
Key items: The dress formed the core of this collection, coming as sweeping red-carpet gowns, or short and full-skirted with a grosgrain ribbon-spanned waist. Silhouettes veered from long and fluid in shimmering sequins to softer gathered mouselline spliced with lace godets. Self-coloured silk petals and corsages trimmed hemlines or emphasised a one-shouldered ruched bodice, while sheer tops featured demure boat necklines and long sleeves. There were variations on the look, with graceful ruched and draped effects, slashed -to-the-thigh hemlines, and a simple pencil skirt and lace jacket combo
Colour: A fragile palette sequenced into separate passages on the runway, opening with delicate balletic poudre pinks, morphing into soft lilac, a warm raspberry and then into the cooler shades of green-cast anise, alabaster and black
Fabric & knit: This was a collection dedicated to after-six dressing, with the emphasis on delicate tulles, lace, organza, silk chiffon and mouselline, crystalline embroideries and shimmering all-over sequins
Print & pattern: A fragile watercolour floral on a chiffon ground
Details & trims: Grosgrain ribbon sashes, pintucks, applied self-fabric petals, bunched corsages, lace godets and edging, beading and embroidery
Footwear: Colour coordinated high platform sandals
Valentino
Lighter-than-air silhouettes and delectable femininity were the hallmarks of the Valentino haute couture showing, where designers Pier Paolo Piccioli and Maria Grazia Chiuri proved they held the house’s DNA close to their hearts.
The look: Whisper-light and delicate
Silhouette: Waist-skimming weightlessness
Key items: Long, floor-grazing skirts were cut with a delectable fluidity or came with weightless pleats, teamed with demure bloused tops, maybe sporting a beaded cut-work yoke or delicate beading on sheer grounds. Dresses had the same effortless sensibility, with wafting plissé or knife-pleat skirts in organzas and gazar, falling to the knee from an organza ribbon-tied waist. Millefeuille gazar bias ruffles etched the neckline of a reed-thin flared coat or trimmed a gently fluted sleeve, and for evening cloud-like evening gowns trimmed with ripples of organza, appliqué petals or overlays of the finest Chantilly lace
Colour: A barely there palette of fresco-tinted pales that spanned from ivory whites to the palest poudres, tea rose and faux nude, through champagne, celadon and duck-egg blue
Fabric & knit: The emphasis was on wafting weightless fabrics with silk plissé, silk crepes, pleated organza, silk chiffon and gazar, Chantilly lace and ostrich feathers
Print & pattern: A washed watercolour check, a barely there lace print, blossom petals
Details & trims: Beaded yokes, skinny rouleau belts, faggoting, ribbon ties, organza ties, applied organza petals and flowers
Footwear: Beaded sandals and ankle-strap Mary-Janes
Accessories: Delicate lace or organza butterfly chokers
Jean Paul Gaultier
Anarchy and punk are buzz words readily associated with Paris’ enfant terrible, but in the elegant world of haute couture, such lo-fi themes must be refined. And that is exactly what Jean Paul Gaultier did yesterday, turning punk leathers into supple skirt suits, bondage straps into exquisite corsetry, and shredded threads into the finest silk fringing. Fuse all that with a splash of Parisian burlesque and you have Gaultier’s spring couture collection.
The look: Punk meets burlesque
Silhouette: Sinuous body-conscious lines alternated with corseted tailoring and the occasional ruffle and flounce
Key items: JPG’s signature trench coats were turned into two dresses - one full-skirted with fur revers, the other a one-shouldered column in flame-red satin. Suits comprised soft pencil skirts topped with edge-to-edge jackets, while jumpsuits with matching jackets provided a new form of pantsuit - in pinstripe with ski-stirrup pants, in beaded sheer with plunging neckline, or a sequinned pinstripe. Other pantsuit options included a super-slim rainbow-coloured tux with capri pants, a corseted white suit with wide-leg pants, and an asymmetrically closing tux with wide peaked lapels covered in decorative passementerie. The cropped bomber jacket was a recurrent item. Meanwhile, gowns either featured high-low skirts and worn with pants, or strapless, long and lean
Colour: Black and white, navy with black, honey gold, flame red
Fabric & knit: Silk, satin, chiffon, pinstripe suiting, luxe jersey, crepe, organza, a rainbow-coloured jacquard, crochet lace, lurex glitter knits, a punkish laddered mesh knit, perforated and punched leathers
Print & pattern: Blue and red spots on white ground in a graduated scale, scattered petals, leopard print, falling cameos on a degradé ground
Details & trims: Decorative tone-on-tone passementerie, sequinned pinstripes on sheer, silk fringing, zippered pockets, tulle micro ruffles twisting and curling around the body in wavy stripes, tiered organza resembling signature sailor stripes, cutaway shoulders, bondage-style banding across shoulders, jersey knots and twists
Footwear: Ankle-cuffed courts, tall T-bar courts, mules with clear Perspex platforms and heels, crocheted mules
Accessories: Chokers, punkish ear cuffs, long leather gloves, feathered headdresses, fishnet tights
Posted in: 
0 comments:
Post a Comment