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Burberry Prorsum
Inspired by the world's strange weather patterns, Christopher Bailey presented a collection of Burberry weather boys in outerwear designed to protect from the wind, snow and rain. The latter included transparent PVC rain macs that kept the models dry during a real shower of water in the parade finale.
"The moulded coats were inspired by an early 60s Burberry ad campaign and the work of Barbara Hepworth, which led to these sculpted shapes with a kick at the back,” said Christopher Bailey
The look: A coat for all seasons
Silhouette: Oversized trapeze swing shapes and a more forgiving trouser shape than usual
Key items: Outerwear is the principal component in the new swing shapes, with extended martingales controlling a kick flare at the back. Duffels, blanket coats and commuter macs; oversized quilted puffa coats and short shearling jackets with exaggerated collars or wide hoods. Pant shapes are more forgiving than usual with elasticated waists and single pleat fronts creating a looser fit at the top, narrowing to a straight or tapered leg. Knitwear includes chunky cable-knit jumpers and a checked golfing sweater with insert yoke
Colour: A palette of pop brights including thistle and royal blue, pea green, tangerine and sunshine yellow. A secondary palette of subdued neutrals includes charcoal and mid-range greys, honeyed camel and natural white
Fabric & knit: Heavy duty wool and twill – bonded, laminated and paper-handed; oversized herringbone, micro-check tweeds; blanket check and tartan wool, glazed and lacquered cotton, down-filled and quilted nylon, plastic vinyl mohair and cable knits twisted with fur and doeskin; jaguar mink, rabbit, shearling and shaved faux fur
Details & trims: Leather edging, fur collars and lapels, wide oversized hoods and exaggerated stand-up coat collars, hand-woven leather buttons, luggage stitching, extended and eather rope martingales, raw-edge constructions
Footwear: Zipped ankle boots and tasselled loafers with thick tread rubber soles, nylon and leather low-top trainers
Accessories: Oversized leather-trimmed totes, holdalls and travel bags, a new satchel/briefcase shape with wood details, fur flat caps, silk scarves
Costume National Homme
Ennio Capasa continues to push the boundaries, taking classic tailoring and splicing it into laser-cut silhouettes combined with bonded fabrications for a modern take on menswear.
The look: Tailoring with a twist
Silhouette: Classic menswear shapes reworked for the modern man
Key items: Shortened jacket silhouettes update Capasa’s tailoring, often etched with contrast stitching to emphasise the silhouette. Casual jackets are cut into boxy shapes, maybe with trench detailing or contract sleeves and contrasting heat-sealed bonded trims or come as elongated biker-inspired coats with contrast leather sleeves. Brushed mohair knits complete the youthful feel
Colour: A classic palette of winter darks – black, indigo, loden and grey – accented with flashes of pumpkin, ochre, sapphire and red
Fabric & knit: Flannel and boiled wool, leather, bonded trims, mohair knits
Details & trims: Laser-cut raw edges, often showing contrast stitching for emphasis. Bonded contrast trims. Fur trims
Footwear: Black slip-on ankle boots
Accessories: Neat document cases or pouches
Dolce & Gabbana
Signature tailoring-meets-rugged-casualwear at Dolce & Gabbana. Bryan Ferry is the house's icon du jour. The lothario rock star sat centre front row, with his latest album the soundtrack.
The look: Poor boy made good
Silhouette: Shrunken and boxy over easy low-rise pants
Key items: Shrunken tailoring comes as form-fitting DBs or truncated 1SB jackets teamed with tapered low-rise pants. Cocooning flight jackets and blousons add a rounded feel to the silhouette, with big fur parkas and slick tailored Crombie-inspired coats completing the outerwear options. Slim white or striped shirts and poor-boy striped knits are teamed with overdyed denim jeans, with lounge-lizard velvet tuxedos adding the final sartorial touch
Colour: Black, grey and white are teamed with flashes of vermilion and burgundy
Fabric & knit: Boiled flannel, carded pinstripes, distressed velvet, tapestry and brocade,checked velour, pied de Poule, Prince of Wales check, denim and painted denim, painted leather, digitally printed velvet and poplin, faux fur
Print & pattern: Graphic black-and-white all-over patterns on jeans, Bryan Ferry slogan tees
Details & trims: Velvet revers and trims, satin binding on velvet tuxedos
Footwear: High-shine brothel-creeper shoes
Accessories: Small crown trilbies, slim-jim ties, thin braces ( suspenders US)
Ermenegildo ZegnaSilhouette: Classic menswear shapes reworked for the modern man
Key items: Shortened jacket silhouettes update Capasa’s tailoring, often etched with contrast stitching to emphasise the silhouette. Casual jackets are cut into boxy shapes, maybe with trench detailing or contract sleeves and contrasting heat-sealed bonded trims or come as elongated biker-inspired coats with contrast leather sleeves. Brushed mohair knits complete the youthful feel
Colour: A classic palette of winter darks – black, indigo, loden and grey – accented with flashes of pumpkin, ochre, sapphire and red
Fabric & knit: Flannel and boiled wool, leather, bonded trims, mohair knits
Details & trims: Laser-cut raw edges, often showing contrast stitching for emphasis. Bonded contrast trims. Fur trims
Footwear: Black slip-on ankle boots
Accessories: Neat document cases or pouches
Dolce & Gabbana
Signature tailoring-meets-rugged-casualwear at Dolce & Gabbana. Bryan Ferry is the house's icon du jour. The lothario rock star sat centre front row, with his latest album the soundtrack.
The look: Poor boy made good
Silhouette: Shrunken and boxy over easy low-rise pants
Key items: Shrunken tailoring comes as form-fitting DBs or truncated 1SB jackets teamed with tapered low-rise pants. Cocooning flight jackets and blousons add a rounded feel to the silhouette, with big fur parkas and slick tailored Crombie-inspired coats completing the outerwear options. Slim white or striped shirts and poor-boy striped knits are teamed with overdyed denim jeans, with lounge-lizard velvet tuxedos adding the final sartorial touch
Colour: Black, grey and white are teamed with flashes of vermilion and burgundy
Fabric & knit: Boiled flannel, carded pinstripes, distressed velvet, tapestry and brocade,checked velour, pied de Poule, Prince of Wales check, denim and painted denim, painted leather, digitally printed velvet and poplin, faux fur
Print & pattern: Graphic black-and-white all-over patterns on jeans, Bryan Ferry slogan tees
Details & trims: Velvet revers and trims, satin binding on velvet tuxedos
Footwear: High-shine brothel-creeper shoes
Accessories: Small crown trilbies, slim-jim ties, thin braces ( suspenders US)
The Orient is the stopping-off point for Ermenegildo Zegna’s opulent autumn/winter collection, which celebrates all things tactile with a subtle sense of luxury.
The look: East meets West
Silhouette: Luxe layers
Key items: Luxurious leather and shearling outerwear – think parkas, trench coats and duffels reworked with fox-fur trims – layered over belted 4-pocket tweed jackets and Prince of Wales 3SB checked suits. 6-button collarless knits are teamed with slim flannel and tweed pants. A landscape-inspired intarsia adds a novelty touch to soft-touch sweater knits. Gilded jacquard shirtings and shimmering tuxedos complete the opulent oriental feel
Colour: A rich medley of gilded golds and browns with camel, red and charcoal grey
Fabric & knit: Fabrics emphasise the luxe mood that underplays the collection with flannels, Prince or Wales and windowpane checks, Donegals and silky jacquards are tempered with rugged look of leather, shearling and fox fur trims
Print & pattern: A subtle jacquarded scroll pattern, novelty landscape intarsia knit
Details & trims: Fur trims
Footwear: Antiqued shaded Oxfords and loafers, laced three-quarter-height military boots, chunky lace-up shoes
Accessories: Fur trapper hats, flat buckle belts with hanging purse bags, checked wool ties
Jil Sander
Silhouette: Luxe layers
Key items: Luxurious leather and shearling outerwear – think parkas, trench coats and duffels reworked with fox-fur trims – layered over belted 4-pocket tweed jackets and Prince of Wales 3SB checked suits. 6-button collarless knits are teamed with slim flannel and tweed pants. A landscape-inspired intarsia adds a novelty touch to soft-touch sweater knits. Gilded jacquard shirtings and shimmering tuxedos complete the opulent oriental feel
Colour: A rich medley of gilded golds and browns with camel, red and charcoal grey
Fabric & knit: Fabrics emphasise the luxe mood that underplays the collection with flannels, Prince or Wales and windowpane checks, Donegals and silky jacquards are tempered with rugged look of leather, shearling and fox fur trims
Print & pattern: A subtle jacquarded scroll pattern, novelty landscape intarsia knit
Details & trims: Fur trims
Footwear: Antiqued shaded Oxfords and loafers, laced three-quarter-height military boots, chunky lace-up shoes
Accessories: Fur trapper hats, flat buckle belts with hanging purse bags, checked wool ties
Jil Sander
Raf Simons continues with his use of bright almost-neon colour to give life to the minimal Jil Sander shapes and silhouettes. Engineered quilting is the new leitmotif, bringing a sense of creative modernity to the collection.The look: Laidback sports luxe and signature minimalism
Silhouette: Generous boxy fits on top, lean below
Key items: A series of unstructured and generous-fit blazers and coats are offset against slim straight-leg pants. A masculine twinset arrives as a polo-neck sweater and snug-fit cardi combo, ribbed turtle-neck sweaters, streamlined crombie coats and scrubs-like square-cut tees are minimal in shape and detail. Outerwear items include 4-pocket parkas, oversized anoraks and voluminous blousons, quilted suits and padded T-shirts give pieces an indoor-outdoor feel
Colours: Signature shades of white, black and navy are punctuated with shots of chartreuse, fuchsia, neon pink, orange and bright royal blue
Fabric & knit: Melange flecked wools, jersey suiting, nylon, felted wool, melton, bonded mackintosh, cashmere blends, alpaca knits, ribbed knits, engineered micro quilts and thin down-filled nylons
Details & trims: Contrast-coloured faux-layered turtle necks, micro quilting and textured surfaces, high-breaking revers
Footwear: Polished formal lace-ups and loafers with rounded toes and leather-covered soles
John Varvatos
Layering was undoubtedly the key statement from John Varvatos, with lightweight tailoring paired with everything from chunky knitwear to biker jackets, topped off with sash belts, scarves
and shawls.
and shawls.
"A freewheeling mix makes for an anti-uniform statement: sophisticated and rustic,” said John Varvatos
The look: Rock 'n' roll traveller
Silhouette: Relaxed and easy with scruffy layers
Key items: Unlined and weightless outerwear and lean three-quarter-length coats layered with raw-edged tailored jackets, untucked shirts, wasitcoats and shawl-collared zip-through cardigan-jackets; Fair Isle crew-neck sweaters featured contrast wool sleeves; snug washed suede biker jackets; pants are slouchy but slim and tapered at the ankle, rugged combat trousers
Colour: Claret and plum, slate and charcoal greys, coal black and moss green, rust-tinted brown
Fabric & knit: Beaten, crumpled and love-worn treatments and finishes, washed leather and suede, loose-knit brushed mohair knits, slubby wool boucle, small-scale Fair iIles, chalk-stripe suiting, wool and linen mixes, cold-dyed moleskin, seersucker-effect wools
Print & pattern: Traditional woven checks
Details & trims: Zip-close blazers with rounded edges, flannel collars, contrast sleeves, hook and eye closures or studs in place of sleeve buttons on tailored jackets, faux layered lapels, raw edges, peaked lapels
Footwear: Sturdy but beaten lace-up work boots with chunky soles
Accessories: Skinny knotted scarves or large leather-fringed wraps and shawls, horn pendants, keychains with fur tails, beaten fedoras, fingerless gloves, tasselled belts and wrap-around necklaces, sand-blasted briefcases, leather and felt totes
Silhouette: Relaxed and easy with scruffy layers
Key items: Unlined and weightless outerwear and lean three-quarter-length coats layered with raw-edged tailored jackets, untucked shirts, wasitcoats and shawl-collared zip-through cardigan-jackets; Fair Isle crew-neck sweaters featured contrast wool sleeves; snug washed suede biker jackets; pants are slouchy but slim and tapered at the ankle, rugged combat trousers
Colour: Claret and plum, slate and charcoal greys, coal black and moss green, rust-tinted brown
Fabric & knit: Beaten, crumpled and love-worn treatments and finishes, washed leather and suede, loose-knit brushed mohair knits, slubby wool boucle, small-scale Fair iIles, chalk-stripe suiting, wool and linen mixes, cold-dyed moleskin, seersucker-effect wools
Print & pattern: Traditional woven checks
Details & trims: Zip-close blazers with rounded edges, flannel collars, contrast sleeves, hook and eye closures or studs in place of sleeve buttons on tailored jackets, faux layered lapels, raw edges, peaked lapels
Footwear: Sturdy but beaten lace-up work boots with chunky soles
Accessories: Skinny knotted scarves or large leather-fringed wraps and shawls, horn pendants, keychains with fur tails, beaten fedoras, fingerless gloves, tasselled belts and wrap-around necklaces, sand-blasted briefcases, leather and felt totes
In a celebration of the masculine form, Roberto Cavalli opts for a snug silhouette that hugs shoulders and thighs, while flared pants and polo neck sweaters add a groovy 70s vibe.
The look: A 70s-influenced groovy mood
Silhouette: Snug tailoring and bootcut pants, slouchy oversized knits
Key items: Tailoring hugs the body, with jackets fitted tightly across the shoulders and chest, accentuated with broad lapels. Sleeves are narrow cut and and waists nipped, while suit trousers are slightly flared or bootcut; the 70s influence gives rise to polo sweater-and-blazer combos worn with snug-fitting jeans; oversized knits include a shawl-wrap sweater in a bobbled popcorn stitch and a slouchy loose-gauge knit jumper with dipping hem
Colours: Russet and cigarillo browns, petroleum blue, olive drab, grey
Fabric & knit: Suede, velvet, shearling and rugged furs, mohair, black leopard-spot jacquard, printed jersey, soft flannel
Details & trims: Stitching that mimics reptile scales, Navajo-style leather inlays on the back of tailored jackets, pieced and spliced suede, snakeskin side panels on pants, whip stitching, satin lapels on tux jackets, glitter beaded collars, fur collars
Footwear: Cuban-heeled suede ankle boots
Accessories: Scarves and foulards, feather pendants and Navajo beaded chokers and plate necklaces, wide-brimmed alpine fedoras, hard-case luggage
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