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Viktor & Rolf
Last season Viktor & Rolf reworked the classic shirt into a full womenswear collection, this season for men the motif is the suit. Running with the idea that a suit is simply two matching items, the designers offer leisurewear jogging suits and cotton shirt suits alongside their well-tailored traditional options.
The look: Re-imagined suits for every occasion
Silhouette: Lean and straightKey items: As an exploration of “the suit”, matching two-piece ensembles are the mot du jour, with examples ranging from a grey marl sweatshirt and jogging pant to a shirt-and-trouser set in matching white cotton poplin; more traditional tailored suits arrive as slim 2SBs with notched lapels and skinny pants or an unstructured DB suit with cutaway jacket closure and long-john leggings, and tuxedos for evening; outerwear comprises slender trench coats including one in quilted nylon, a fly-front commuter coat with quilted sleeves and cord collar, while shearling coats and jackets have both revers and a zip-up funnel neck collar; other on trend pieces include cord trousers in cropped length and a pieced sweater with exaggerated polo neck
Colour: Black, white, grey and camel with singular shots of midnight blue and vermilion red
Fabric & knit: Silk wool suiting, a lustrous check jacquard, brushed buffalo check flannel, shearling, corduroy, suede, check-quilted nylon, melange jersey, crisp cotton poplin
Print & pattern: Buffalo checksDetails & trims: Contrast-coloured shirt plackets and collars; peaked lapels in velvet or beaded check pattern for tux jackets; check quilting
Footwear: Formal lace-ups – some in buffalo-check printed leather, others with rubbed toes; monk-strapped shoes; suede loafers; military-esque boots with deep tread
Accessories: Shearling gloves; knee-high socks; shopper, briefcase and weekend bag in embossed and drummed buffalo leather
Rick Owens
With a signature aesthetic so distinct, Rick Owens collections are variations on a theme – monastic lengths, apocalyptic leather and androgynous dresses and skirts. Autumn/winter 2011/12 continues in much the same vein, with the addition perhaps of on-trend quilted nylons and puffas seen in Milan last week.
The look: Urban tribes
Silhouette: Elongated layers and cutaway fronts
Key items: Layered looks comprise funnel-neck wrap dresses, kilt-like leather skirts, polo-neck sweaters with extra-long sleeves, cutaway wrap coats and jackets either long and trailing or cropped at the chest with dipping hems; structured outerwear including duffel coats fastened with two rod-like metal toggles, zip-through jackets and coats with quilted nylon funnel necks
Colour: Strictly limited to black, white and pumice grey
Fabric & knit: Leathers including a polished and slicked finish, suede, shearling, cotton, quilted nylon, ridged wool, raw silk, shaved furs
Details & trims: Samurai-style stitched/ridged cotton edging, metal strips tracing jacket edges, puffa funnel necks, contrast trims
Footwear: Tall boots with asymmetrical zips working around the leg, boots with a central front zip worn open and flared
Accessories: Long suede gloves worn scrunched, three-quarter-length leather gloves
Jean Paul Gaultier
Theatrical to the very end, Jean Paul Gaultier plays with a James Bond theme this season, with deconstructed tuxedos and suave evening looks, sporty action-man puffas, wetsuits and lashings of metallics just perfect for Goldfinger villains.
The look: James Bond heroes and villains
Silhouette: Wide top halves, skinny legs
Key items: Peaked lapel tuxedos in multiple reincarnations including a sleeveless 8DB jacket, wide-cut 1SB lamé option and a trompe l’oeil zip-up shirt with pant shapes ranging from slim-leg pants to cropped gauchos and tailored micro shorts, as well as signature long-rise and dropped crotch styles; broad and abbreviated puffa jackets and wide-cut biker jackets; zip-through cardigans and polo-neck sweaters, scuba wetsuits worn as leggings, blousons with ribbed knit sleeves; signature bateau-neck sweaters and striped polo tees
Colour: Black, sandy beige, gold and flashes of orange and violet
Fabric & knit: Lamé, silk wool, pinstripes and yellow chalkstripe suitings, metallic-glazed knits, silk, satin, neoprene, cotton shirting, leather including bonded, shearling, Lycra jersey, quilted and padded nylons and rubberised technos
Print & pattern: A multicoloured paisley bandana print, a space navigation graphic, crackle effect in gold foil and gold foil stripes
Details & trims: Matelot buttoning, zipped trouser ankles, leather revers, all-over sequins, a sequinned skeleton-rib motif on tees, fox fur trims
Footwear: Chelsea boots, tall pull-on biker boots
Accessories: A new opticals range with Alain Mikli; extra-long scarves – silk with long fringe, white dress scarves, wool with short fringe; bow ties, miniature satchels
Juun J
Channelling a film noir mood, Juun J taps into shadowy spy chic, with caped-sleeved trench coats and 40s-inspired DB suits with wide pants.
The look: Film Noir redux
Silhouette: Caped, wide legs
Key items: 40s-style suits with oxford bags and DB jackets that fold upwards to act as a matching overcoat; double-sleeved (regular sleeve and cape slit) outerwear including biker jackets, trenches and puffa coats; striped shirts with knitted sleeves, mid-gauge polo sweaters and chunky V-neck tunic-length sweaters with sleeves that morph into a coiled scarf; there is also a slimmer pant shape – pleat-front but tapered
Colour: Black, grey and camelFabric & knit: Plaid wools and suitings, chalkstripe wool, striped cotton shirtings, flannel, tweed, leather, quilted and padded nylon, curly Mongolian lambPrint & pattern: A grainy pointillist effect, large-scale plaid checks
Details & trims: Leather edging, banded quilting, stitched leather, double sleeves and collars, spliced sleeves
Footwear: Chunky boots with abstract extended sole
Accessories: Detached Mongolian lamb collars, part-framed optical, skinny ties, knitted over-the-elbow gloves, zip-round leather document cases
Issey Miyake
There’s always a touch of surviving the elements in any Issey Miyake menswear presentation. This season didn’t disappoint with an easy mix of unstructured tailoring and weatherproof outerwear.The look: Town and countrySilhouette: Relaxed and unstructured
Key Items: Billowing unstructured macs and padded coats provided protection, layered over slim trousers, waterproof zippered pants and easy cuffed joggers, then teamed with chunky DB knits and cosy gilets. Apron-front details update relaxed-fit pants and tailoring comes as soft unstructured SBs or plaid tailored cabans with scarf-effect collars
Colour: A countrified palette of rustic greens like moss and olive are offset with rich bark browns, ochre, grey, taupe and aubergine
Fabric & knit: Tree bark textures, nylon, waxed or coated finishes, flannel, plaid, small-scale bicolour check and striped seersucker-effect shirtings
Print & Pattern: A splatter blot print, herringbone patterned tee, degradé striped shirtings
Details & trims: Apron fronts on soft tailored pants, scarf neckline on an SB
Footwear: Suede sneakers, laced ankle boots, rugged walking boots
Accessories: Bow ties, knitted beanies, plaid scarves, soft fisherman hats, overscaled bumbag
Louis Vuitton
A modern minimal look from Paul Helbers at Louis Vuitton, where the designer plays with reinventing classic shapes in a graphic cinematic-inspired palette.
The look: Minimalist menswear
Silhouette: Sharp and clean with minimal detailing
Key Items: Tailoring is a strong statement throughout this collection, reworked as belted wrap SBs and tuxes or with flat fly fronts and curved cutaway hemlines, all layered over collarless shirts or high-fastening vests. Seamed details add a linear touch to shirtings and suits with vertical panelling, matt-sheen fabric mixes or contrast panelled inserts. Helbers takes the season’s preoccupation with outerwear and reinvents it with puffa-style cagoules, leather puffa gilets, and parka hybrids. A padded parka hemline morphs into a tailored tuxedo jacket. Elsewhere the emphasis is on a luxe touch, with velvet trousers, tactile fur jackets and plush shearling, with an LV monogrammed velvet tux for evening
Colour: A strong graphic palette of black on black, winter white, rich espresso brown, anthracite and charcoal greys and a flash of vermilion red
Fabric & knit: A play on matt-shine fabrics sees a mix of luxe suitings, sooty black or grey velvet, satin, nylon and taffeta, leather, denim, flannel and rugged furs and shearling. Herringbone pattern knits, plated rib sweaters
Details & trims: Fur collars, velvet trims, panelling details with black-on-black matt-sheen mixes
Footwear: Mudguard soles, contrast toecap boots
Accessories: Crocodile document cases, weekend bags, plated rib scarves, bumbags and fanny packs
Dries Van Noten
David Bowie’s alter ego, The Thin White Duke, supplies the inspiration for Dries Van Noten’s playful collection, where the designer confidently twinned disparate silhouettes to great effect.
The look: Glamorous
Silhouette: Louche 40s vintage-meets-slick sportswear
Key items: The 40s-inspired louche DB suit set the scene for looks that combined slouchy tailored pleat-front pants with slick motocross jackets, zippered biker pants or an embroidered hussar’s jacket with chunky sleeveless fisherman knits, three-quarter-length tie-belt jackets with panelled skinny pants, a shawl collared blazer with voluminous cargo pants and classically-styled DB Crombies reworked with biker-style zips
Colour: Black, winter white, grey, camel, espresso and indigo with rich aubergine, a flash or cobalt and tanFabric & knit: Lush cashmere blend suiting and coatweights, tonal pinstripes and subtle banded stripes, velvet, flannel, brushed wools and mohair, rabbit and chinchilla; technical nylons; chunky heavy-gauge marled knits
Details & trims: Fur collars and revers-shaped tippets, contrast facings, biker style zips ,gold embroideryFootwear: Chunky soled boots
Accessories: Cross-body satchels on striped straps
Yohji Yamamoto
Yohji Yamamoto has no truck with trends, plying his singular vision with a Zen-like disregard for fashion. With an upcoming exhibition at London’s V&A museum this spring, that vision may be set to reach a broader appeal.
The look: Haphazard mismatched dressing
Silhouette: Voluminous and overscaled
Key Items: Voluminous throw-on coats and oversized DB suits have a dishevelled appeal, along with hiked-up paper-bag-waist trousers, high-button vests or waistcoats, chunky intarsia tunic knits and soft-collared shirts
Colour: Black, taupe and grey form the core of the palette with playful accents of cobalt and red
Fabric & knit: Softly structured tweeds add to the haphazard look, along with patchworked checks, mismatched pinstripes and chalk-striped flannels, with silk velvet adding a touch of vintage glamour
Print & pattern: Cherry and skeletal intarsia, Botticelli-style goddess prints, alpine jacquards
Details & trims: Soft tie belts on voluminous pant shapes, sequin or velvet top collars
Footwear: Laced work boots, sneakers
Accessories: Watch chains, high-crown trilbies, leather belts
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