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Prada
Miuccia Prada likes to challenge fashion, often taking the ugly and turning it into something unexpectedly directional and fashion forward. For her winter menswear collection the references come from the 60s - and everything kitsch and bad taste about the period. In this case it’s turtleneck twinsets, boxy suits and diamond-patched suede commuter coats.
The look: Bad-taste 60s retroisms made minimal and modern
Silhouette: Square-cut flat planes, oversized top halves
Key items: Tailored suit jackets are oversized and boxy with exaggerated wide-cut sleeves, either high-breaking three-button SBs or four-button SBs buttoned to the neck, while pants are tapered and cut above the ankle or cropped just below the knee; square-cut 60s-style polo shirts and twinsets comprise a narrow turtle neck and V-neck combo in glitter knits; elsewhere there are zip-up track tops and viscose jogging bottoms, carrot-leg suede pants and suede commuter coats with contrast diamond panels
Colour: Winter darks including claret, plum and racing green; metallic parrot green, magenta pink and peach; tan and cigarillo browns, accents of kingfisher blue and clean white, a heavy use of matt black
Fabric & knit: Smooth lightweight suitings, glitter lurex knits, suede, cashmere, viscose
Print & pattern: Retro knit patterns
Details & trims: Diamond patches
Footwear: White Chelsea boots with thick soles, highly polished lace-up Oxfords, hybrid lace-ups with flat sneaker sole
Accessories: Hard case luggage, square bowling bag, knee-high glitter knit socks with single Argyle diamond
Bottega Veneta
Tomas Maier astutely recognises that with menswear it’s not about reinventing the wheel, but about remaking traditional items in “uncommon ways”. For autumn/winter he does this by mixing materials on single items and updating fine wool suiting with subtle over-patterns.
“There is a very limited playground for men, as there is a precise code for wardrobe already. So it is about evolving pieces through fabric, colour, proportion and construction,” said Tomas Maier.
The look: Classic with a subtle twistSilhouette: Unstructured natural fit tailoring, generously sized outerwearKey items: Suits are comfort-cut and masculine with a natural unpadded shouldered jacket. Smoking jackets for evening include a low-breaking DB with no lapels; heavy-duty outerwear is oversized and long in length – cabans, leather or waxed cotton parkas, trench coats and a blue duffel with buttoned tabs; cord pants are generous at top and tapered to the ankle; hybrid shirts feature knitted or leather patched sections on the sleeves; knitwear includes a ribbed shawl-collared sweater and a placement stitch cable cardigan
Colour: Inspired by the exterior pipes of the Pompidou Centre in Paris, a palette of industrial grey, black and navy is punctuated by large expanses of flat colour – vermilion, mustard, bright royal blue and lettuce greenFabric & knit: Grainy wool suiting in crumpled finishes, dense felted wool, fine jersey, cotton, corduroy, washed and aged leather, cashmere, alpaca, soft knits with irregularly placed stitch patterns, velvet
Print & pattern: Specially finished wool suiting features subtle pattern woven into the fabric dark-on-dark and then overprinted to create “visual texture”- crosshatching, broken stripes, scuffed effects
Details & trims: Fabric splicing – tailored jackets with knit sections and shirts with leather patches, inside-out pocket patches
Footwear: Strapped work boots
Accessories: Cross-body messenger bags and holdalls with leather-stitched trims, suede totes, soft crocodile envelope bag, eyelet belts, leather gloves
Salvatore Ferragamo
MassimilianoGiornetti plays with 70s references for winter, from the bootcut pants to thepolo sweater-blazer combo that is fast becoming a trend from Milan.
“There are some 70s references – it is veryNew York, very chic and glossy, but playing with the sartorial by putting bigouterwear over the neater tailoring,” said Massimiliano Giornetti.
The look: 70sluxe
Silhouette: Tauttailored jackets and bootcut pants, oversized outerwear
Key items: Astrong emphasis on outerwear in generous proportions – overcoats, DB trenches,parkas with quilted hoods, luxurious deep pile shearling jackets with widecollars; high-breaking 8DB suits with new longer jackets and peaked lapels arecut close to the body; taut reefers worn over cashmere polo-neck sweaters andpaired with subtly bootcut pants for that 70s look; suede utility shirts andleather four-pocket bush jackets; ribbed sweaters with a criss-cross lacedV-neckline and smart cargo pants feature a long rise and buckled ankles
Colour: White,poudre cosmetiques, muted rust and brick reds, teal greens and petrol blues
Fabric & knit:Signature suede and leather, fine wool suiting, double stripe shirting, cotton,cashmere, thick ribbed knits, silk
Print & pattern: Newsuiting stripes including a double chalk effect
Details & trims: Wideshearling collars, buckled leather straps on trouser cuffs, contrast nylonsleeves
Footwear: Formalshoes in a unique washed leather with high soles in technical rubber, moccasinswith ornamental stitching, sneakers with contrasting rubber soles and treadswith an embossed optical-patterned sole, fringed driving shoes
Accessories: Silkfoulards featuring floral, fruit and animal pattern, fedoras and berets; nubuckand calfskin belts with motif buckles; totes and briefcases in soft suede withcroc or tegu detailing, an oversized natural cowhide bag, hobos, backpacks andsaddle bags in greased nubuck with rough-cut leather straps
Vivienne Westwood
Referencingthe impending royal marriage in her show notes and her own British nationality,Vivienne Westwood's winter collection has a distinctly British flavour.
The look: Englisharistocrats
Silhouette: Broadshouldered, signature tapered legs
Key items: Smartand formal tailoring with broad DB jackets sitting tightly across the shouldersworn with button-down high-collared shirts; outerwear highlights include aflannel blouson, quilted yard jacket, abbreviated pea coat with exaggeratedswing flare at the back and a striped red velvet tux jacket with leatherharlequin-diamond shoulder patches; pant shapes include extreme dhotis inheritage fabrics, carrot-leg chinos, fluid pleat-front pants and tall wadersworn with braces; eclectic styling layers mismatched waistcoats, fine-gaugepolos, leather-panelled cardigans and cotton shirts
Colour:Cornflower blue, poppy red, dark maroon, shades of grey and pops of magenta
Fabric & knit: Finelightweight wool suiting, heritage fabrics including windowpane checks,pinstripes and yellow tartan, flannel, tweed, faded and bleached denim, marledyarns, pictorial intarsia, cotton shirting
Print & pattern: Aknitted intarsia featuring kissing birds surrounded by rope twists, skull andcrossbone intarsia, black on grey overprinted irregular stripes on shirts
Details & trims: Highbutton-down collars, asymmetric button closure on a blazer, brassmilitary-style buttons, diamond-shaped leather patches
Footwear: Distressed tartan brogues and hi-tops with Velcro straps,ponyskin laced boots with runner soles
Accessories: Tartan holdalls, striped braces ( suspenders: US)tapestry belts, coloured webbing belts, bow ties, printed tote bags, zippedfanny pack belts, space-dyed socks, lapel pins
Angela Missoni takes the concept ofknit dressing to the max for her autumn/winter collection, working double-facedknits into soft unstructured layers that play with mismatched pattern andtexture in luxe yarns like alpaca, Shetland and cashmere.
"It's a collection full ofsurprises - from the earthy colour palette with unexpected flashes of brightcolour to the fact that many of the pieces are reversible, even the trousers. Originallythe inspiration was Ireland - the tweeds, the big chunky cable sweaters, theearthy palette," said Angela Missoni.
The look:Cosy countrified winter dressing
Silhouette:Soft unstructured layers
Key items:Knitwear forms the core of the collection for everything from the double-facedknitted suits to the high-buttoned narrow shawl-collared cardigans and buttonedknit vests that layer under easy-cut tailored coats, chunky knitted jackets andcolourful check blousons. The rustic inspirations come through in the quiltedshooting gilets, big Aran tunic knits and the 4-pocket quilt tweed jackets allteamed with soft drawstring knit pants and relaxed-fit flannel tailoredtrousers
Colour: An autumnal rustic-inspiredpalette that spans pigeon greys to warm clay and terracotta tones, earthy loam browns,camel, poppy and cool mallard greens
Fabric & knit:Luxe alpaca and cashmere or Shetland yarns, Donegal and pebble knits combinewith soft touch flannel and rustic tweed. Checked wools add pattern interest tooffset random space-dyed and flame-stitch jacquards
Print & pattern:Woven checks, flame stitch and space-dye knits
Details & trims:Drawstrings on easy pants, leather buttons
Footwear:Chunky back-zipped suede boots with a coloured flash on the back of the whiterubber sole
Accessories:Soft unstructured suede hats, long patterned knitted scarves, shoulder bags,knitted gloves with bright trim
Emporio Armani
Tailoring takes a back seat thisseason at Emporio Armani, as the designer opts for the coat in every shape andform as the crux of his autumn/winter collection.
The look:Urbanised casual
Silhouette:Soft and unstructured with mismatched proportional layering
Key items:The coat appears in every shape and length – most noticeably in new longer-lineproportions cut to below the knee and featuring high asymmetric collar details.Silhouettes are lean and tailored or come as shrug-on unstructured shapes.Layering is key to the look, with easy tunic knits, boxy gilets and stripedpolo necks, teamed with relaxed elastic cuff pants. Sporty blousons and zippedneck knits as part of the new EA7 golf range
Colour: Every shadeof urban grey offset with inky blues, camel, signature taupe and flashes ofwarm plum and loden
Fabric & knit: Tactiletextures add a paradoxical twist to the urban feel, with boiled and felted wooland flannel, leather, pinstripes, jersey, cashmere, shearling, suede, velvetand double-faced knits
Print & pattern: Asingular painterly graphic print in brush stroke-like black and white
Details & trims:Asymmetric necklines, zipped necks on knits
Footwear:2-tone golf shoes, patent laced boots, work boots, cavalry-style riding boots,loafers
Accessories:Leather tote bags, travel bags, leather gloves with an ombréd effect, longgauntlets
Moncler Gamme Bleu
It’s hunting, shooting and fishingall the way at Moncler Gamme Bleu, with country pursuits given atongue-in-cheek twist for urban living
The look:Country bumpkin comes to town
Silhouette:Multi-layered with offbeat proportion play
Key items:The quilted jacket comes in every shape and length from cropped to mid-calf,layered over quilted pants, knee-length shorts, britches and jodhpurs, quiltedgilets and chunky country knits. A quilted salopette is layered over a quiltedSB and there are huntsman jackets, poacher quilted gilets, a quilted trench anda quilt blouson, teamed with Barbour-inspired jackets and coats
Colour: A countrifiedpalette of pine, grey, camel, pine, loden green and huntsman red contrastedwith the graphic simplicity of black and white
Fabric & knit:Traditional country tweeds and wools are quilted, all in a medley of checksfrom glen plaids to tattersall, dogtooth and Prince of Wales through to classicroyal Stewart tartan, offset with velvet, waxed or oiled cotton, suede andshearling
Print & pattern: Wovencheck and plaid provide the pattern interest
Details & trims:Suede gun patches on jackets, suede panels and knee patches on britches and jodhpurs,shearling collars, brass buttons and snaps, poacher pockets
Footwear:Classic leather riding boots, wool and leather riding boots
Accessories: Poacher satchels, riding caps, quilted gloves and gauntlets
Albino Deuxieme
Oneof the best collections of the week so far comes from Albino Deuxième, whoreduces menswear to a series of easy minimal pieces accentuated with a play onthe ultimate in tactile fabrications.
The look: Modernand minimal with a touch-me-feel-me appeal
Silhouette:Unstructured and square cut over relaxed-fit bottom weights
Key items: Thesquare-cut tee-shaped top is a key piece in the collection, worked in astrakhanor lofty brushed mohair, layered over silky tunic shirts and easy-fit pants.Outerwear comes as unstructured and often unlined pea coats, silky parkas,shrug-on jackets with snap closures or as a sleeveless coat. A shrunken jacketshape hallmarks the tailoring, with a truncated SB balanced by fuller-leggedpant shapes or relaxed-fit dark dye jeans
Colour: Anintelligently layered palette of muted greys and espresso brown, taupe and amedley of urban greys shot with accents of sapphire, teal, milk and bone
Fabric & knit: Tactilefabrics offer a soft touch, giving a soft diffused feel to the minimal silhouettes.Think lofty brushed mohair and astrakhan or broadtail, silky shirtweights andtaffeta, jersey, felted luxe wool blends, rustic herringbone and dark-dye denim
Print & pattern: Asimple linear T-shirt print, brushstroke-effect monochrome prints on an ivoryground
Footwear: Chunkydistressed-effect military boots in pale coloured leather
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