Live from... Paris Haute Couture, Day 3

Elie Saab

A new demure look from the Hollywood A-listers’ favourite couturier, as red-carpet glamour got the fragile feminine treatment in a palette of watercolour pales and deliciously decorative but understated fabrics. 

The look: Delicate femininity
Silhouette: Soft folds and drapes falling from a natural waistline or a higher-set waist
Key items: The dress formed the core of this collection, coming as sweeping red-carpet gowns, or short and full-skirted with a grosgrain ribbon-spanned waist. Silhouettes veered from long and fluid in shimmering sequins to softer gathered mouselline spliced with lace godets. Self-coloured silk petals and corsages trimmed hemlines or emphasised a one-shouldered ruched bodice, while sheer tops featured demure boat necklines and long sleeves. There were variations on the look, with graceful ruched and draped effects, slashed -to-the-thigh hemlines, and a simple pencil skirt and lace jacket combo
Colour: A fragile palette sequenced into separate passages on the runway, opening with delicate balletic poudre pinks, morphing into soft lilac, a warm raspberry and then into the cooler shades of green-cast anise, alabaster and black
Fabric & knit: This was a collection dedicated to after-six dressing, with the emphasis on delicate tulles, lace, organza, silk chiffon and mouselline, crystalline embroideries and shimmering all-over sequins
Print & pattern: A fragile watercolour floral on a chiffon ground
Details & trims: Grosgrain ribbon sashes, pintucks, applied self-fabric petals, bunched corsages, lace godets and edging, beading and embroidery
Footwear: Colour coordinated high platform sandals

Valentino 

Lighter-than-air silhouettes and delectable femininity were the hallmarks of the Valentino haute couture showing, where designers Pier Paolo Piccioli and Maria Grazia Chiuri proved they held the house’s DNA close to their hearts.

The look: Whisper-light and delicate
Silhouette: Waist-skimming weightlessness
Key items: Long, floor-grazing skirts were cut with a delectable fluidity or came with weightless pleats, teamed with demure bloused tops, maybe sporting a beaded cut-work yoke or delicate beading on sheer grounds. Dresses had the same effortless sensibility, with wafting plissé or knife-pleat skirts in organzas and gazar, falling to the knee from an organza ribbon-tied waist. Millefeuille gazar bias ruffles etched the neckline of a reed-thin flared coat or trimmed a gently fluted sleeve, and for evening cloud-like evening gowns trimmed with ripples of organza, appliqué petals or overlays of the finest Chantilly lace
Colour: A barely there palette of fresco-tinted pales that spanned from ivory whites to the palest poudres, tea rose and faux nude, through champagne, celadon and duck-egg blue
Fabric & knit: The emphasis was on wafting weightless fabrics with silk plissé, silk crepes, pleated organza, silk chiffon and gazar, Chantilly lace and ostrich feathers
Print & pattern: A washed watercolour check, a barely there lace print, blossom petals
Details & trims: Beaded yokes, skinny rouleau belts, faggoting, ribbon ties, organza ties, applied organza petals and flowers
Footwear: Beaded sandals and ankle-strap Mary-Janes
Accessories: Delicate lace or organza butterfly chokers

Jean Paul Gaultier 

Anarchy and punk are buzz words readily associated with Paris’ enfant terrible, but in the elegant world of haute couture, such lo-fi themes must be refined. And that is exactly what Jean Paul Gaultier did yesterday, turning punk leathers into supple skirt suits, bondage straps into exquisite corsetry, and shredded threads into the finest silk fringing. Fuse all that with a splash of Parisian burlesque and you have Gaultier’s spring couture collection. 

The look: Punk meets burlesque
Silhouette: Sinuous body-conscious lines alternated with corseted tailoring and the occasional ruffle and flounce
Key items: JPG’s signature trench coats were turned into two dresses - one full-skirted with fur revers, the other a one-shouldered column in flame-red satin. Suits comprised soft pencil skirts topped with edge-to-edge jackets, while jumpsuits with matching jackets provided a new form of pantsuit - in pinstripe with ski-stirrup pants, in beaded sheer with plunging neckline, or a sequinned pinstripe. Other pantsuit options included a super-slim rainbow-coloured tux with capri pants, a corseted white suit with wide-leg pants, and an asymmetrically closing tux with wide peaked lapels covered in decorative passementerie. The cropped bomber jacket was a recurrent item. Meanwhile, gowns either featured high-low skirts and worn with pants, or strapless, long and lean
Colour: Black and white, navy with black, honey gold, flame red
Fabric & knit: Silk, satin, chiffon, pinstripe suiting, luxe jersey, crepe, organza, a rainbow-coloured jacquard, crochet lace, lurex glitter knits, a punkish laddered mesh knit, perforated and punched leathers
Print & pattern: Blue and red spots on white ground in a graduated scale, scattered petals, leopard print, falling cameos on a degradé ground
Details & trims: Decorative tone-on-tone passementerie, sequinned pinstripes on sheer, silk fringing, zippered pockets, tulle micro ruffles twisting and curling around the body in wavy stripes, tiered organza resembling signature sailor stripes, cutaway shoulders, bondage-style banding across shoulders, jersey knots and twists
Footwear: Ankle-cuffed courts, tall T-bar courts, mules with clear Perspex platforms and heels, crocheted mules
Accessories: Chokers, punkish ear cuffs, long leather gloves, feathered headdresses, fishnet tights

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Live from... Paris Haute Couture, Day 2

Chanel

There was a sweet balletic feel to Lagerfeld’s latest Chanel couture collection - the inspiration was the painter Marie Laurencin’s work, apparent in the delicate washes of pastel colour that gave every look a dreamlike quality. 

The look: Delicately iced ballet girls
Silhouette: Swingy A-line layers, dropped waists and tunic-length tops with maxiskirts
Key items: Skinny-leg pants as layering pieces – sequined or beaded sheer leggings and stretch jeans with buttoned ankles; skirt suits with belted A-line minis and boxy DB jackets; swing coats and princess coats; drop-waist tailored dresses; midi-length dresses with ruffled underlayers; beaded T-shirt tops with floaty rara skirts and jeans. For evening or party, pieces included a frothy tutu-skirted dress, sheer coats and pants, beaded tunic tops with tiered or tapered ballet skirts, and tailored column gowns
Colour: Signature Chanel monochrome and washed pastels including palest shell pink, lavender, ice blue and pearlescent oyster
Fabric & knit: Raw-edged tweeds and slubby bouclés, luxe wool twills, basket weaves, lurex shot tweed plaid, soft colour-washed stretch denim, duchesse satin, silk georgette, washed silk, beaded sheers, tulle, beaded gauzy knits
Print & pattern: Delicate watercolour florals, a grey-pink degradé
Details & trims: Spider-web embroideries scrawled over shoulders, beaded and sequined collars and trompe l’oeil belts, chiffon appliqué diamonds and squares, raw edges, chimney collars, domed sleeve heads/shoulders, chiffon camellia appliqués, jewelled and enamelled buttons, satin ribbons
Footwear: Pointed flat pumps with transparent straps, pointed satin flat booties
Accessories: Ribbon chokers, fingerless gloves and sheer sleeves, sash belts, large stud earrings, belts with square buckles

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Live from... Paris Haute Couture, Day 1

Dior

It is the perfect fit - René Gruau’s drawings for Dior as inspiration, and Galliano’s individual ability to create true couture. The result was a wondrous collection that brought the haute genre right back to its roots. 

The look: Perfect couture
Silhouette: Classic New Look - nipped waists and flared skirts
Key items: Non-matching tailleurs with wide pleated circle skirts or pencil skirts cut just below the knee, and cinched-waist jackets with plunging shawl collars; an emerald-green skirt suit with bateau-neck jacket featuring a puffed peplum; a tulle layered swing coat; signature swagged tops and tailored dresses; strapless bandeau gowns that flare or puff from the waist in clouds of silk or frothy layers of tulle
Colour: Scarlet, fuchsia, emerald and honeyed gold with white.Colour-washed pastels - lemon, sky, mint and candy pink
Fabric & knit: Layered tulle, shantung, washed silk, organza, marabou and ostrich feathers
Print & pattern: Galliano turned his back on print to recreate Gruau’s style in embellishment and decorationDetails & trims: Sequined sketch marks and brush strokes, a micro-beaded diamond pattern, a sprinkled leopard spot in seed-bead embroidery and embroidered flower sprays; appliqué flowers and roses, large covered buttons, degradé effects created by layered tulle, crisp pleats; frothy graduated cascade ruffle hems, balloon hems; sculpted swags, gathers and twists, puffed shoulders and sleeves
Footwear: Peep-toe sandals with criss-cross or double Mary Jane straps
Accessories: Mismatched gloves to coordinate with degradé dresses; sheer gloves, demi veils, alligator-skin wrap belts; Stephen Jones millinery

Giorgio Armani Privé

Two seasons ago, Giorgio Armani travelled to the moon for couture inspiration, and for spring 2011 he was back in space with a collection of galactic girls who looked ready to party at Saturn’s answer to Studio 54. 

The look: A space odyssey
Silhouette: Long, lean and layered
Key items: Leggings worn under dresses and skirt suits, the latter comprising softly pleated tulip skirts and zipped jackets with squared shoulders or edge-to-edge options with cutaway collars; high-waisted flat-front bell-bottom pants worn with silky shell tops and cutaway jackets; caped dresses and cape-sleeved jackets; a jumpsuit with bandage-wrapped torso; split-waist dresses and bandeau column gowns
Colour: Scarlet red, kingfisher and midnight blues, ultraviolet, pistachio green, pearl white and shimmering black - all metallic or iridescent
Fabric & knit: Techno textiles - mirror-effect organza, iridescent gazars, metal-threaded silks, micro-check jacquard, coated synthetics, polished alligator leather, metallic satin
Print & pattern: Broken stripes, degradé effects
Details & trims: Heat-treated and embossed/blistered textures, petrol-shimmer paillettes, beaded fringing, cutaway sections revealing embellished under-layers, caped sleeves
Footwear: Low-cut pointed courts
Accessories: Faceted gemstone bracelets and breast-plate necklaces, resin cuffs, chandelier earrings, long plunging jewelled-fringe necklaces; disc and flying-saucer hats; faceted clutch bags and a small structured handheld shopper in alligator leather

Alexis Mabille

Alexis Mabille played with mirror images and the ideas of light and dark, plain or patterned with a collection comprising 10 exits, each followed by an alternative version.

The look: Seeing double
Silhouette: Floor-sweeping, flared or bias column
Key items: Capri pant suit with short ruffled peplum jacket featuring a bow-back collar; a dipped hem square-cut tabard dress; sheer opera coats; long-sleeved flare-skirted gowns with plunging neckline; a bias one-shoulder maxi tent dress; halterneck fishtail column gowns
Colour: White and black, scarlet, midnight blue; combinations of bois de rose with bordeaux and pine green with sky blue
Fabric & knit: Duchesse, watery silks, organza, lace, chiffon
Print & pattern: A delicate tinted lace gave the illusion of floral print
Details & trims: Satin bows, creeping stem flower appliqués spilling over hems and necklines, caped sleeves, densely embroidered all-over floral in gold with flecks of pastel pink and turquoise on black ground
Footwear: Satin shoes with a lattice-woven toe case
Accessories: Long buttoned gloves, ornate neck duster earrings, knotted belts, clutch bags

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Live From... Paris Menswear, Day 4

Lanvin

Several of the week’s emerging trends were confirmed at Lucas Ossendrijver’s showing for Lanvin, where the designer played with dressed-up looks and mismatched proportional layering. 

The look: Retro glamour
Silhouette: Narrow, layered and reed thin contrasted with volume through the torso
Key items: Fluid wide-cut flat-front pants helped determine the new silhouette, teamed with narrow close-cut coats and jackets - best as a retro-styled DB or 1SB in soft washed brights or velvet. Elsewhere it was all about leggings or skinny pants and minimal knee-length tunics, styled with flat fronts (this is the season of hidden fastenings) or simple shell tops, both often layered under rounded puffa jackets for a mismatched silhouette and a play on proportion. There was a sense of asymmetry too in the narrow DB coats, which came with hidden magnet closures or biker-style zips - another emerging trend this season.
Colour: All shades of grey, black and inky navy, alabaster, camel, soft khaki or olive, washed brick and mallard green, taupe and aurbergine
Fabric & knit: Like many designers this season, Ossendrijver opted for bonded fabrics to create a sculpted silhouette. He offset that with luxurious flannels and cashmeres, tweed, leather, velvet and satin
Print & pattern: A grey and camel fragmented geometric pattern, teamed with a coordinating print that was overprinted in darker grey
Details & trims: Flat-fly fronts, hidden magnet closures, epaulettes, contrast facings
Footwear: Loafers in grey or tan leather or suede; pale leather hiking boots
Accessories: Striped club ties, narrow bow ties, document cases, toning gloves (newest in pale colours), felt fedoras


Yves Saint Laurent

A more youthful look underpinned the Yves Saint Laurent autumn/winter collection, as Stefano Pilati opted for a reed-thin silhouette with subtle Edwardiana teddy-boy influences, contrasted with overscaled outerwear.

The look: Young blade
Silhouette: Reed thin and elongated contrasted with big, overscaled, boxy outerwear
Key items: Tailoring formed the core of the collection, reworked as high-buttoned 2SBs, creating the illusion of a longer jacket length. Contrast trims and high-set narrow shawl collars lent the look an Edwardiana-inspired teddy-boy feel. A contrasting silhouette came in the form of lean DBs with narrow six-button placements. Pant shapes were cropped and narrow, contrasting with boxy square-cut outerwear shapes featuring Pilati’s new sloping shoulderline - a look that also transcended to his tailoring. Coloured plain-dye shirts - with micro collars - and fine-gauge knits completed the look
Colour: A palette of shaded greys, black, pine green, aubergine and tonal navy blues, from ink through to softer French navy, highlighted with accents of absinthe, old gold and pumpkin used for shirtings and fine-gauge knits
Fabric & knit: Felted wools, shadow checks, cashmere and flannels
Details & trims: Contrast velvet collars and pocket details, narrow revers and shaved shawl collars
Footwear: High-shine shoes on a heavy patterned unit

Acne

A surprisingly low-key look from Acne, with underplayed tailoring and an emphasis on the long-line coat , which when teamed with simple knits created a youthful sartorial appeal. 

The look: The Acne boy grows up
Silhouette: Long-line and classic
Key items: The long overcoat was a key feature, worked as classic DBs or even as a reproportioned duffle, layered over narrow cropped and cuffed tailored pants. Tailoring was another key option, coming as low-break SBs or with a narrow shawl collar, teamed with fine-gauge knits in winter brights. Contrasting shirt tails peeped from under sweaters or sweatshirts, baring travel-destination logos such as Rio de Janeiro, Paris and New York. Fine-gauge twinsets were another key look, with asymmetric detailing
Colour: A classic palette of charcoal, black, alabaster and camel, with accents of raspberry, bright turquoise, pumpkin and cobalt
Fabric & knit: Bonded wools, herringbone tweed, cotton shirtings, wool twill, marled sweatshirting. Fine-gauge and lofty heavy-gauge knits
Print & pattern: Travel-destination logos on sweats
Details & trims: Shawl collars, low-break points
Footwear: Chelsea boots in leather, or patent classic oxfords
Accessories: Soft shoppers, document cases

Bill Tornade

Bill Tornade was marching to a military beat this season - one with a Scottish tune, as traditional tartans clashed with army greatcoats and battle jackets.
The look: The tartan army
Silhouette: Neat but relaxedKey items: The DB greatcoat, ¾ trench and DB military battle jacket or reefer - some with luxe fur collars and a horizontal zip at the hem band. Kilts offered an alternative to the narrow cropped cuffed pants that ran through the collection teamed with novelty knits, knitted shirts, casual jackets or neat SB tailoring.
Colour: Black and grey, khaki and camel, scarletFabric & knit: Traditional tartans, flannel, waxed cottons, leather
Print & pattern: Woven plaids, a trompe l’oeil intarsia featuring braces
Details & trims: Military badges, safety pins, zips on shirts and running horizontally round the hip of a greatcoat or the waistband of jackets
Footwear: Chelsea boots, laced military boots
Accessories: Satin scarves adorned with safety pins

Paul Smith

There was an easy casualness to Paul Smith’s latest menswear offering, his signature tailoring offset with baggy cardigans and untucked, raw-edged shirts. 

The look: Thrown-together nonchalance
Silhouette: Slim-legged and casually layered
Key items: Long quilted parkas with shearling hoods; duffel coats with off-centre toggled closures; tailored crombies with zipped feature collars; baseball jackets and sloppy oversized cardigans layered atop patchworked print or collarless chambray shirts. Tailored trousers are lean and cropped or long-rise and generously cut, while casual options include motocross-style zipped pants and tapered chinos. Long, thick knit cardigan coats featuring dressy peaked lapels
Colour: Camel, sky blue, silver and a range of mid-level greys, with pops of titanium blue, sunshine yellow and vermillion
Fabric & knit: Flannel, micro-check wools, chalk-stripe suiting, chambray shirting, cashmere blends, mohair, marled yarn knits, tufted teddy furs, waffle-like textured knits, leather, suede and shearling
Print & pattern: Grayscale animal print, faded marbling, spliced and patchworked prints, polka dots
Details & trims: Shearling hoods, raw-edge shirts, spliced leather jacket sleeves, oversized popper fastenings, knee patches, triple zipped knee details, toggles, zip-trimmed shawl collars
Footwear: Lace-up boots with double-buckled contrast leather ankle strap, derby ankle boots, plain pull-on boots
Accessories: Squashy unstructured totes and holdalls, knitted fishermen’s beanies, retro goggle-like sunglasses, wishbone pendant

Thom Browne 

The 18th century is rich pickings for a designer partial to a cropped trouser or two, and as such Thom Browne revelled in breeches and knickerbockers for winter. Couple that with layered coats, long capes and pouffy leg-of-mutton shirts, and it’s a recipe for fashion-themed high jinks. 

The look: 18th century eccentricity
Silhouette: Voluminous puffs and cuffs
Key items: Historically inspired breeches and knickerbockers, floor-sweeping coats, edged frock coats and puff-sleeved shirts. High-breaking 4SB crombies were slim and neatly tailored, while blazers and jackets were short and shrunken. Sleeveless jackets and blazers with spliced or contrast-knitted sleeves were on trend; tailored trousers were cropped and cuffed
Colour: Signature red, white and blue; mid-level greys, white and black; grass green and burgundy
Fabric & knit: Mix-and-match checks including plaids, Argyle diamonds, windowpane and gingham; astrakhan, ermine and curly lamb fur; mohair, velvet
Print & pattern: Signature woven checks, double stripe
Details & trims: Speckled feather trouser cuffs, red/white/blue striped ribbon trims, contrast sleeves sometimes knitted
Footwear: Plain zip-up ankle boots, lace-up army boots, monk-strap shoes
Accessories: Buckled gauntlet gloves, cable-knitted snoods, shrunken pork-pie hats, top hats and canes, chunky knitted scarves and headbands, collegiate striped ties, wire-framed round sunglasses in two sizes

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