5:08 AM
admin
Lanvin
With their slicked-back hair and bold confident stride down therunway, the models at Lanvin were every inch the modern glamzonian,perfectly mirroring the collection’s out-and-proud body-con silhouettesand modern-day goddess drapes.
The look: Modern glamazon
Silhouette: Strict body-con softened with billowing goddess drapes and dramatically exaggerated A-line shapes
Key items: Slick body-con skirts and racer-back tanks set thescene for second-skin dresses, sometimes in plissé silk or in densestretch with soft asymmetric silk drape details. Skater skirts featuredzippered trims, and there was a passage of elongated layers, withtunics and leggings worked under pared-down coat dresses. Billowingsilk skirts and long ankle-skimming sheaths took that elongatedsilhouette to the max, and for evening a series of gladiatorcastellated hem skirts and dresses, heavily embellished with metaltrims
Colour: Colour mirrored the strong silhouettes, from warmtobacco and manilla browns to espresso and black, through soft smokeand taupe and into a palette of clashing brights - acid yellow,fuchsia, peacock, orange and violet
Fabric & knit: Dense stretch, paper-thin nylons, tissue-thin silks and plissés, silky satin charmeuse
Print & pattern: A single feathery palm-leaf print on black ground charmeuse
Details & trims: Intense metalwork embellishment, exposed zippers
Footwear: Metal cuffs clasped the ankle of high sandals with cut-out wedges; flat sandals with metal stud trim; high snakeskin sandals
Accessories: Raw leather harness/belts, double-pronged belts,cutout cuffs, leather chokers with jewelled embellishment,long-strapped satchels, chain-trimmed briefcases
Roland Mouret
Dai Fujiwara is a conceptual designer who likes to weave playfulnarratives into his complexly innovative and experimental fabricdevelopments. For Issey Miyake this season, he spun a ghost story intohis print and fabric directions.
"The inspiration comes from space and fog, where white, with a strong shadow, turns to black," Dai Fujiwara told WGSN.
The look: Experimental
Silhouette: Varied, with emphasis on swing shapes and elongated drapes
Key items: Dropped-crotch pants and voluminous dhotis; croppedutility pants; kimono-sleeved cocoon coats; blouson parkas withcrumpled leather sleeves; drapey waterfall gilets; square-cut dresses;embroidered organza capes; silk T-shirt dress with laser-cut petals atthe yoke; long-line tunic tops; micro-pleated swing tops and bouncydresses; micro-pleated form-fitting suit; spaghetti-strapped halterblouse with soft cowl
Colour: Passages of black, white and mid-tone grayscale openedand closed the show; in the middle came primary red and yellow withturquoise, flashes of citric brights and a straw-coloured neutral
Fabric & knit: An innovative new superfine mesh that, whenlayered, creates a swirling moiré effect, degradé effects achievedthrough a graduation weave, Meisen silk (warp is hand-brushed beforebeing woven) in giant check, silk, satin, iridescent organza, paperynylons, 3D-textured crochet, knitted plastic mesh, woven multicolourchecks, slashed knit stitches, crumpled leather
Print & pattern: Trompe l'oeil basket-weave wicker,humbug stripes, bleached or burnt dye effects, placement eye graphics,a smoky vapour plume - said to resemble the Japanese devil Oni's hair -created by a rare and highly specialised Kyoto dyeing method calledYuzen, using long single strokes
Details & trims: Springy micro pleats, sculpted micropleating in a honeycomb effect, short fringing, handkerchief hems andasymmetric drapes, large silver discs, floral embroideries
Footwear: Low cut-away wedges mules, flat pumps with pointed toes
Accessories: Slouchy sporty across-body bags, conical mesh hats, leather sash belts
Maison Martin Margiela
The Margiela name - even without its originator - is synonymous withquirky concepts sent to reconfigure the way we think about fashion, andsometimes even poke fun at it. This season continued in the same vein,with pieces stretched across sandwich boards, laying bare theirmasculinity at the front and shapely feminine figure at the rear.
The look: Masculine-feminine
Silhouette: Columnar lengths, rectangular panels
Key items: Expropriated menswear items such as classicbutton-down shirts updated with vertical fins on the sleeves, andmannish oversized blazers and wide-cut pants. Tight low-high skirts,columnar maxi at the front, knee-length pencil at the back;flesh-coloured second-skin long-sleeved tops and bodysuits withillusionary bikini tan lines; a five-zip leather jacket and browntuxedo; cape-sleeved funnel-neck camel coat or a classic beige trench -both with flat boards at the front; midi-length tube dress with drapedvelvet detail stretched across the flat board
Colour: Grey, silver, sky blue, milk white, faux nude, chocolate brown, midnight blue and bright fuchsia
Fabric & knit: Lycra jersey, stretch mesh, shavedvelvet, glitter knits, cotton shirting, tonal check jacquard, slickedleather, merino and cashmere wool
Details & trims: Beetle-like sequins, vacuum-sealed crinkles
Footwear: Patent high-heeled courts with an illusionary sunken platform creating a raised guard around the toes
Accessories: Lucite tie box clutch, Perspex collar/bib necklacederived from a jewellery stand, watches and bracelets still on theirblack velvet display stands, shoulder-strapped camera bags in leather,resized travel cases as clutch bags
Christian Dior
For summer 2011, John Galliano weighed anchor in the South Pacific,where jaunty sailors mingled with exotic beauties against a tropicalsunset. With a late-40s slant, the collection hit upon themasculine-feminine interplay seen elsewhere this season.
The look: Hello sailor!
Silhouette: Short and swingy
Key items: Nautical outerwear items such as cotton parkas,a leather DB reefer and a masculine donkey jacket worn over shortflippy dresses; masculine combos such as the navy cotton bomber jacketworn with rolled chinos; matelot-buttoned wide-leg sailor pants;sarong-inspired halter dresses; crochet dresses with knot-and-tasselhems; flirty godet rara miniskirts; a one-shouldered printed playsuit;portrait-collared peplum jacket or puff-sleeved tailored top, bothresting off-the-shoulder; a series of sheer gowns for evening, withfeather-decorated halternecks
Colour: Nautical navy, white and mid-tone denim blue witha tropical burst of bougainvillea pink, sunset orange, citric lime,turquoise, violet, scarlet red and sunny egg-yolk yellow
Fabric & knit: Nubuck leathers, cotton, nautical knits with reef-knot crochet stitches, silk jersey, knitted silks, lace, tulle, chiffon
Print & pattern: Tropical florals including palmleaves, hibiscus and orchid blooms; dip-dyed hems; a diffused andspeckled linear star pattern in denim blue on white
Details & trims: Reef knots, embroidered flowers,starburst embroidery pattern, sheer ruffles, flower pompoms, clippedribbons, lace insets, feathers, coral and shell embroideries
Footwear: Buckled ankle boots with over-turned slouch socks;ribbon or rope-tied platform espadrille high-heeled sandals, some withfeathered cuffs and blanket-stitch detailing
Accessories: Organza garland belts and necklaces, knotted ropenecklaces, doughboy sailor caps, cats-eye sunglasses, oversizedaviators, leather fringed bags, oversized duffel bag with chunky ropedrawcord, quilted Lady Dior bags with across-body shoulder strap, LadyDior in coarse raw-edged canvas or orange and pink python
Isabel Marant
It may be more high street than high fashion, but that doesn't stopIsabel Marant being one of the most sought-after labels around - andfor summer she didn't disappoint, with her sunkissed and verybelievable collection of easy casualwear.
Silhouette: Strict body-con softened with billowing goddess drapes and dramatically exaggerated A-line shapes
Key items: Slick body-con skirts and racer-back tanks set thescene for second-skin dresses, sometimes in plissé silk or in densestretch with soft asymmetric silk drape details. Skater skirts featuredzippered trims, and there was a passage of elongated layers, withtunics and leggings worked under pared-down coat dresses. Billowingsilk skirts and long ankle-skimming sheaths took that elongatedsilhouette to the max, and for evening a series of gladiatorcastellated hem skirts and dresses, heavily embellished with metaltrims
Colour: Colour mirrored the strong silhouettes, from warmtobacco and manilla browns to espresso and black, through soft smokeand taupe and into a palette of clashing brights - acid yellow,fuchsia, peacock, orange and violet
Fabric & knit: Dense stretch, paper-thin nylons, tissue-thin silks and plissés, silky satin charmeuse
Print & pattern: A single feathery palm-leaf print on black ground charmeuse
Details & trims: Intense metalwork embellishment, exposed zippers
Footwear: Metal cuffs clasped the ankle of high sandals with cut-out wedges; flat sandals with metal stud trim; high snakeskin sandals
Accessories: Raw leather harness/belts, double-pronged belts,cutout cuffs, leather chokers with jewelled embellishment,long-strapped satchels, chain-trimmed briefcases
Roland Mouret
Roland Mouret was in a buoyant mood yesterday, happy to be showingunder his own name once again. "When I lost my name I dared not imaginethat this day would ever come," read his show notes. This rebirthundoubtedly effected his summer collection, with an upbeat palette ofblue-green brights and a return to his trademark power-tailored dresses.
"The lines were very simple - it was simple symmetry," Roland Mouret told WGSN.
The look: A refreshed signature
Silhouette: Long and lean with asymmetric angles
Key items: Signature tailored sheath dresses in midi-lengthswith patch pockets at the hips and folded shoulders or cut-awaynecklines exposing the décolletage; wide cropped pants worn with breezyopen shirts and spaghetti-strapped diamond-pieced silk camisoles; crispkhaki shorts and a short angular-cut utility flak jackets, sometimessleeveless; unstructured pyjama or kimono jackets, a chartreuse mididress cut away from the body and slightly twisted to fit, with verticalfins running its length
Colour: Invigorating marine brights of royal blue, chartreuse,aqua and vivid teal against moss green, navy and black, and neutrals ofstone, khaki or flax
Fabric & knit: Parachute silk, crepe, techno canvas, doublewool crepe, double-faced zibeline, fine-gauge cashmere, ikat jacquard,seersucker, stretch denim, cotton cord, double-faced viscose, stretchfaille, ripple-effect plissé
Print & pattern: A moss green and white bubble print with tonal veining and delicate dappled ground that has a subtle Eastern influence
Details & trims: Fan-pleated necklines, kimonosleeves, caped backs, contrast turn-ups, darted cap sleeves, engineereddarts, hidden stretch shaping, cowl backs, vertical fins, wide armholescreating a batwing drape
Footwear: Wooden-soled platform peep toes with chunky heel
"The lines were very simple - it was simple symmetry," Roland Mouret told WGSN.
The look: A refreshed signature
Silhouette: Long and lean with asymmetric angles
Key items: Signature tailored sheath dresses in midi-lengthswith patch pockets at the hips and folded shoulders or cut-awaynecklines exposing the décolletage; wide cropped pants worn with breezyopen shirts and spaghetti-strapped diamond-pieced silk camisoles; crispkhaki shorts and a short angular-cut utility flak jackets, sometimessleeveless; unstructured pyjama or kimono jackets, a chartreuse mididress cut away from the body and slightly twisted to fit, with verticalfins running its length
Colour: Invigorating marine brights of royal blue, chartreuse,aqua and vivid teal against moss green, navy and black, and neutrals ofstone, khaki or flax
Fabric & knit: Parachute silk, crepe, techno canvas, doublewool crepe, double-faced zibeline, fine-gauge cashmere, ikat jacquard,seersucker, stretch denim, cotton cord, double-faced viscose, stretchfaille, ripple-effect plissé
Print & pattern: A moss green and white bubble print with tonal veining and delicate dappled ground that has a subtle Eastern influence
Details & trims: Fan-pleated necklines, kimonosleeves, caped backs, contrast turn-ups, darted cap sleeves, engineereddarts, hidden stretch shaping, cowl backs, vertical fins, wide armholescreating a batwing drape
Footwear: Wooden-soled platform peep toes with chunky heel
Issey Miyake
Dai Fujiwara is a conceptual designer who likes to weave playfulnarratives into his complexly innovative and experimental fabricdevelopments. For Issey Miyake this season, he spun a ghost story intohis print and fabric directions.
"The inspiration comes from space and fog, where white, with a strong shadow, turns to black," Dai Fujiwara told WGSN.
The look: Experimental
Silhouette: Varied, with emphasis on swing shapes and elongated drapes
Key items: Dropped-crotch pants and voluminous dhotis; croppedutility pants; kimono-sleeved cocoon coats; blouson parkas withcrumpled leather sleeves; drapey waterfall gilets; square-cut dresses;embroidered organza capes; silk T-shirt dress with laser-cut petals atthe yoke; long-line tunic tops; micro-pleated swing tops and bouncydresses; micro-pleated form-fitting suit; spaghetti-strapped halterblouse with soft cowl
Colour: Passages of black, white and mid-tone grayscale openedand closed the show; in the middle came primary red and yellow withturquoise, flashes of citric brights and a straw-coloured neutral
Fabric & knit: An innovative new superfine mesh that, whenlayered, creates a swirling moiré effect, degradé effects achievedthrough a graduation weave, Meisen silk (warp is hand-brushed beforebeing woven) in giant check, silk, satin, iridescent organza, paperynylons, 3D-textured crochet, knitted plastic mesh, woven multicolourchecks, slashed knit stitches, crumpled leather
Print & pattern: Trompe l'oeil basket-weave wicker,humbug stripes, bleached or burnt dye effects, placement eye graphics,a smoky vapour plume - said to resemble the Japanese devil Oni's hair -created by a rare and highly specialised Kyoto dyeing method calledYuzen, using long single strokes
Details & trims: Springy micro pleats, sculpted micropleating in a honeycomb effect, short fringing, handkerchief hems andasymmetric drapes, large silver discs, floral embroideries
Footwear: Low cut-away wedges mules, flat pumps with pointed toes
Accessories: Slouchy sporty across-body bags, conical mesh hats, leather sash belts
Maison Martin Margiela
The Margiela name - even without its originator - is synonymous withquirky concepts sent to reconfigure the way we think about fashion, andsometimes even poke fun at it. This season continued in the same vein,with pieces stretched across sandwich boards, laying bare theirmasculinity at the front and shapely feminine figure at the rear.
The look: Masculine-feminine
Silhouette: Columnar lengths, rectangular panels
Key items: Expropriated menswear items such as classicbutton-down shirts updated with vertical fins on the sleeves, andmannish oversized blazers and wide-cut pants. Tight low-high skirts,columnar maxi at the front, knee-length pencil at the back;flesh-coloured second-skin long-sleeved tops and bodysuits withillusionary bikini tan lines; a five-zip leather jacket and browntuxedo; cape-sleeved funnel-neck camel coat or a classic beige trench -both with flat boards at the front; midi-length tube dress with drapedvelvet detail stretched across the flat board
Colour: Grey, silver, sky blue, milk white, faux nude, chocolate brown, midnight blue and bright fuchsia
Fabric & knit: Lycra jersey, stretch mesh, shavedvelvet, glitter knits, cotton shirting, tonal check jacquard, slickedleather, merino and cashmere wool
Details & trims: Beetle-like sequins, vacuum-sealed crinkles
Footwear: Patent high-heeled courts with an illusionary sunken platform creating a raised guard around the toes
Accessories: Lucite tie box clutch, Perspex collar/bib necklacederived from a jewellery stand, watches and bracelets still on theirblack velvet display stands, shoulder-strapped camera bags in leather,resized travel cases as clutch bags
Christian Dior
For summer 2011, John Galliano weighed anchor in the South Pacific,where jaunty sailors mingled with exotic beauties against a tropicalsunset. With a late-40s slant, the collection hit upon themasculine-feminine interplay seen elsewhere this season.
The look: Hello sailor!
Silhouette: Short and swingy
Key items: Nautical outerwear items such as cotton parkas,a leather DB reefer and a masculine donkey jacket worn over shortflippy dresses; masculine combos such as the navy cotton bomber jacketworn with rolled chinos; matelot-buttoned wide-leg sailor pants;sarong-inspired halter dresses; crochet dresses with knot-and-tasselhems; flirty godet rara miniskirts; a one-shouldered printed playsuit;portrait-collared peplum jacket or puff-sleeved tailored top, bothresting off-the-shoulder; a series of sheer gowns for evening, withfeather-decorated halternecks
Colour: Nautical navy, white and mid-tone denim blue witha tropical burst of bougainvillea pink, sunset orange, citric lime,turquoise, violet, scarlet red and sunny egg-yolk yellow
Fabric & knit: Nubuck leathers, cotton, nautical knits with reef-knot crochet stitches, silk jersey, knitted silks, lace, tulle, chiffon
Print & pattern: Tropical florals including palmleaves, hibiscus and orchid blooms; dip-dyed hems; a diffused andspeckled linear star pattern in denim blue on white
Details & trims: Reef knots, embroidered flowers,starburst embroidery pattern, sheer ruffles, flower pompoms, clippedribbons, lace insets, feathers, coral and shell embroideries
Footwear: Buckled ankle boots with over-turned slouch socks;ribbon or rope-tied platform espadrille high-heeled sandals, some withfeathered cuffs and blanket-stitch detailing
Accessories: Organza garland belts and necklaces, knotted ropenecklaces, doughboy sailor caps, cats-eye sunglasses, oversizedaviators, leather fringed bags, oversized duffel bag with chunky ropedrawcord, quilted Lady Dior bags with across-body shoulder strap, LadyDior in coarse raw-edged canvas or orange and pink python
Isabel Marant
It may be more high street than high fashion, but that doesn't stopIsabel Marant being one of the most sought-after labels around - andfor summer she didn't disappoint, with her sunkissed and verybelievable collection of easy casualwear.
The look: California dreaming
Silhouette: Short and sexy with easy borrowed-from-the-boys tops
Key items: Thigh-high cut-offs and flirty ruffled raras uppedthe sassy quota, teamed with boyfriend-friendly check shirts andstriped rugbies, while second-skin cropped jeans with laced fly detailscame teamed with mesh vests or fisherman Arans and baseball jackets.Other key items included cropped boxy jackets, striped twinsets,hoodies and crochet dresses
Colour: Black and white offered a graphic play to a paletteof pale sunblush pinks shading through to deep sunset reds andpurple-cast amethyst
Fabric & knit: Basic casualwear fabrics such as drill,check shirtings, marl and striped twills, combined with floaty sheers,washed silk and sequins. Fine-gauge striped knits, recoloured cottonArans, crochet
Print & pattern: A bandanna-inspired all-over, pretty florals on coloured grounds
Details & trims: Lacing details
Footwear: Slouchy suede boots with beaded trim; two-tone stilettos with ankle cuffs
Accessories: Friendship bracelets and necklaces, striped belts, leather belts
Yohji Yamamoto
Yohji Yamamoto has always marched to a solitary beat, and for nextsummer he imbedded a punky rocker vibe into his signature brand ofpoetic romance.
Silhouette: Short and sexy with easy borrowed-from-the-boys tops
Key items: Thigh-high cut-offs and flirty ruffled raras uppedthe sassy quota, teamed with boyfriend-friendly check shirts andstriped rugbies, while second-skin cropped jeans with laced fly detailscame teamed with mesh vests or fisherman Arans and baseball jackets.Other key items included cropped boxy jackets, striped twinsets,hoodies and crochet dresses
Colour: Black and white offered a graphic play to a paletteof pale sunblush pinks shading through to deep sunset reds andpurple-cast amethyst
Fabric & knit: Basic casualwear fabrics such as drill,check shirtings, marl and striped twills, combined with floaty sheers,washed silk and sequins. Fine-gauge striped knits, recoloured cottonArans, crochet
Print & pattern: A bandanna-inspired all-over, pretty florals on coloured grounds
Details & trims: Lacing details
Footwear: Slouchy suede boots with beaded trim; two-tone stilettos with ankle cuffs
Accessories: Friendship bracelets and necklaces, striped belts, leather belts
Yohji Yamamoto
Yohji Yamamoto has always marched to a solitary beat, and for nextsummer he imbedded a punky rocker vibe into his signature brand ofpoetic romance.
The look: Edwardiana punk
Silhouette: Elongated and hourglass or elongated easy layers
Key items: The dress was the key feature of this collection,worked as a swagged crinnie or an hourglass bustier with asymmetricdrapes, to easy long-line shifts and shirtdresses with handkerchiefhems. Fitted shirts, draped bra tops and neat jackets topped crinnieskirts - all layered over skinny black or vibrantly printed leggings.And for the final exit, an inflated nylon skirt with a slogan teeproclaiming: This Is Me
Colour: The designer’s signature black, highlighted with deep purple, acid yellow and khaki
Fabric & knit: Floaty sheers tethered by compact cottons, satin charmeuse and jersey
Print & pattern: A vivid punk psychedelic print on jersey. A simple repeat slogan: This Is Me
Details & trims: Asymmetric drapes
Footwear: Chunky combat boots; flat thong sandals
Accessories: Edwardiana hats and long fringed stoles
Vivienne Westwood
Vivienne Westwood continued to bang her drum on ethical issues,combining her signature historically inspired silhouettes with a visionof an apocalyptic future. The jury is out on whether she got hermessage across.
Silhouette: Elongated and hourglass or elongated easy layers
Key items: The dress was the key feature of this collection,worked as a swagged crinnie or an hourglass bustier with asymmetricdrapes, to easy long-line shifts and shirtdresses with handkerchiefhems. Fitted shirts, draped bra tops and neat jackets topped crinnieskirts - all layered over skinny black or vibrantly printed leggings.And for the final exit, an inflated nylon skirt with a slogan teeproclaiming: This Is Me
Colour: The designer’s signature black, highlighted with deep purple, acid yellow and khaki
Fabric & knit: Floaty sheers tethered by compact cottons, satin charmeuse and jersey
Print & pattern: A vivid punk psychedelic print on jersey. A simple repeat slogan: This Is Me
Details & trims: Asymmetric drapes
Footwear: Chunky combat boots; flat thong sandals
Accessories: Edwardiana hats and long fringed stoles
Vivienne Westwood
Vivienne Westwood continued to bang her drum on ethical issues,combining her signature historically inspired silhouettes with a visionof an apocalyptic future. The jury is out on whether she got hermessage across.
The look: The past meets the future
Silhouette: Bunched and layered underpinned with the hourglass of historical costume drama
Key items: A procession of mismatched items, from soft wrapshorts to heart-shaped bustiers, boxy tunics and jackets, short wrapskirts, zigzag-hem skirts, cropped slouch pants, toga drapes andpaper-bag-waist crinnies, with a singular louche plaid bathrobe coatand sweeping taffeta skirts for evening
Colour: The palette was as mismatched as the silhouettes,with a mixed-media medley of orange and yellow, cornflower and sand,blood red, summer tans and old golds
Fabric & knit: A recycling mood was in the air, withsteeped and stained ticking, multicolour stripes, seersucker stripes,plaids on sheer grounds, tree-bark silks, metallic knits, chiffon,taffeta and satin
Print & pattern: Stained patterns, spatter prints, graphic logos, tie-dye, furnishing florals and a fresco print
Details & trims: Fringed and zigzag hems as though cut with giant pinking sheers
Footwear: Canvas shooties trimmed with raw leather straps, laced Edwardiana boots in canvas or metallic leather, ankle-strap sandals
Accessories: Leather belts, big hobo bags in printed canvas,satin paper-boy bags, belts stamped with “Fragile” logo, striped bracesand knee-high socks
Silhouette: Bunched and layered underpinned with the hourglass of historical costume drama
Key items: A procession of mismatched items, from soft wrapshorts to heart-shaped bustiers, boxy tunics and jackets, short wrapskirts, zigzag-hem skirts, cropped slouch pants, toga drapes andpaper-bag-waist crinnies, with a singular louche plaid bathrobe coatand sweeping taffeta skirts for evening
Colour: The palette was as mismatched as the silhouettes,with a mixed-media medley of orange and yellow, cornflower and sand,blood red, summer tans and old golds
Fabric & knit: A recycling mood was in the air, withsteeped and stained ticking, multicolour stripes, seersucker stripes,plaids on sheer grounds, tree-bark silks, metallic knits, chiffon,taffeta and satin
Print & pattern: Stained patterns, spatter prints, graphic logos, tie-dye, furnishing florals and a fresco print
Details & trims: Fringed and zigzag hems as though cut with giant pinking sheers
Footwear: Canvas shooties trimmed with raw leather straps, laced Edwardiana boots in canvas or metallic leather, ankle-strap sandals
Accessories: Leather belts, big hobo bags in printed canvas,satin paper-boy bags, belts stamped with “Fragile” logo, striped bracesand knee-high socks
Posted in: 
0 comments:
Post a Comment