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John Galliano
John Galliano is a designer whose genius is the ability to weave a narrative through his clothes. Unlike any other, he always perfectly encapsulates the essence of a period in time. For spring/summer 2011 he returned to his favoured era, bohemian Paris in the 1920s, with a collection that married modern-day silhouettes with his signature weightless bias cutting and effortless embellishment.
The look: Bohemian 20s ingenue
Silhouette: Languid, deshabillé layers inspired by Poiret
Key items: The Poiret-style ultra-wide pant was layered with a cropped belted jacket or a slouchy blouson and sporty tank. Trench coats came cropped or were worked in python and taffeta with a hem of scrolling ruffles and a Poiret-inspired painted floral. Sporty parkas were reworked in gazar, and there was a languid salon appeal to the draped kimono coats and soft pyjama pants, while the boudoir came into play with Galliano’s delicate lace skirts, flat bias tiers, lace tops and fluted bias dresses
Colour: A flamboyant palette of clashing brights, with a collage of vivid turquoise, poppy, fuchsia and cobalt, offset with soft washed sky blue and pale sage, deep petrol, ink, black and white
Fabric & knit: A delicious mix of washed leather, python, weightless gazar and chiffon, Chantilly lace, taffeta, satin charmeuse, spotted tulle and silky devoré
Print & pattern: Butterflies and florals were the motifs du jour, worked as all-overs or as placements
Details & trims: Embroidery, crystalline beading, feather trims
Footwear: Vampy high T-bar sandals with contrast platforms
Accessories: Overblown corsages, coloured stockings, fishnets, Edwardiana veils, unstructured high-crown floppy brimmed hats, socks
Givenchy
A hard-edged look at Givenchy, with uncompromising silhouettes played out in a riff of short over long, and solid and sheer fabric mixes - part masculine, part goth-punk-rocker.
The look: Gothic punk rocker
Silhouette: A lean elongated masculine-feminine silhouette
Key items: Multi-layering created a complex look, but strip away the styling and this was a collection about long, sheer layers under short zippered miniskirts, boxy waistcoats and sleeveless tailored jackets. Sheer tunic shirts teamed with slick flared pants, gilets and tuxedo styling added to the masculine feel, and for evening there were harness-back ruffled breastplate tops with hip-slung skirts or pants
Colour: A flash of grey, crisp white and faux nude alleviated a gothic palette of black on black, played out in nuances of colour through contrasting fabric weights
Fabric & knit: Self-coloured jacquards and cloqué, georgette, chiffon, mesh leopard-patterned devoré, leather and suitweights were worked together in a complex collage of solid and sheer mixes
Print & pattern: Leopardprint ran throughout the collection, used as an all-over, as a self-coloured devoré pattern or as cutout motifs appliquéd on to sheer
Details & trims: Exposed zips traced every piece of the collections, running vertically down the front of sheer tunics, etching side seams, emphasising design details on lean tabard dresses, or snaking horizontally at the hip
Footwear: High strappy sandals with deep ankle straps
Accessories: Long strapped purse bags
Costume National
Punchy colour, clean lines and a believable mix of fluidity and structure made for a no-frills show at Costume National yesterday, where the sheer simplicity of the collection was commercially covetable.
"I took the energy of Pop and the coolness of minimalism and mixed them, leading to strong tailoring and multiple colour chromatics,” Ennio Capasa told WGSN.
The look: The collection was titled Pop Chic
Silhouette: Tailored and minimal
Key items: Shapes were unfussy and graphic - tailored suits arrived with bracelet-length sleeves on jackets and either ankle-cropped treggings or a high-waisted flat-front wide-leg pants. A shorts suit featured a collarless zip-through jacket. Elsewhere there were wrap-over tops tucked into pants, breezy tops with sheer/opaque fabric-blocking, simple V-neck dresses and a series over oversized maxidresses
Colour: An opening passage of beige faux nudes, a finale of black, and a central core of saturated brights in single shades of turquoise, orange, red and royal blue
Fabric & knit: Silk, crepe organza, viscose, sheer nylon, unlined nappa leather
Details & trims: Bracelet-length sleeves, shoulder tabs on outerwear, pale suede waistband details with a Sam Browne stud fastening, halternecks, caped sleeves, fabric-blocking
Footwear: Wooden-heeled cutaway T-bars, three-strap no-platform sandals, cork wedge platforms with asymmetric strap - all in patent leather
Accessories: Round-framed sunglasses with coloured lenses, oversized squashy top-handled bags carried as clutches
Céline
Phoebe Philo's shows for Céline continue to be one of Paris' hottest tickets, as fashion editors and buyers jostle for a better view of her new-wave minimalism. For summer 2011 those looks continued, but with the addition of crafty texture and prints inspired by vintage foulards.
The look: Grown-up minimalism with a hint of craft
Silhouette: Largely lean and languid with the occasional oversized cocoon
Key items: Fluid, flat-front, zip-fly, wide-leg pants worn on the hips, teamed with rigid-structure tops such as an elongated sleeveless jacket with baseball-style collar, a long leather tunic, a pullover V-neck top with cutaway collar, or a long-sleeved leather tee with high bateau neckline. Minimal cape-sleeved tailored blazer with cutaway collar and lapel; LBD with wide plunge neckline and two tailored black jumpsuits - one with long sleeves, the other a zip-up halter. The more minimal looks were contrasted with some artisanal pieces including a halter-top and zip-through jacket with a heavily textured crafty weave with tufted wool fringe, or a Japonesque quilted wrap-over sleeveless jacket cinched with an obi-style belt. Slicked leather pieces included a tailored tank and a below-the-knee pencil skirt with wide waistband and coordinating leather belt tied in a small knot. Oversized tees and masculine shirts with long sleeves and wide-open cuffs. Wide-leg zip-fly jeans with flat scrubs-style top
Colour: White, ivory and black were the cornerstone colours, with a singular flash of Céline orange and considered notes of royal blue, bottle green, rich mahogany brown and palest primrose yellow
Fabric & knit: Silk, crisp cottons, bonded cotton twill, linen canvas, denim, slicked and polished leather, and an artisanal weave with chunky patchworked textures and tufted fringe
Print & pattern: Foulard-inspired prints, with colour-blocked edging and central panels of micro repeats, the colour-blocked edging stripes running down pant legs
Details & trims: Contrast-coloured crew necks on T-shirts, orange trouser waistbands, stand-up collars, leather buckled halterneck fastenings, high-cut bateau necklines, quilting, long scarf fringing, zips, canvas webbing straps
Footwear: Strappy tan leather high heels with chain embellishment across the toe strap, sand-coloured ponyskin peep toe sandals
Accessories: Green wrist cuffs, necklaces with metal plaques, minimal bags with a leather thong-and-bead closure, a zip-up pochette, concertina-construction bags
Akris
"The shirt is the most important piece of a summer wardrobe," said designer Albert Kriemler in his show notes. Akris was another brand to riff on the reconfiguring of the white shirt this season - Dries Van Noten, Viktor & Rolf, Céline all proffered similar ideas this week.
"A visit to Japan and the Kyoto gardens made me think of other clothes for summer… more relaxed refinement, more simplicity and more ease,” Albert Kriemler told WGSN.
The look: Crisp summer elegance
Silhouette: Tailored
Key items: The classic shirt was transposed into dresses with misaligned asymmetrical hems, elongated shirts with a dipping hem, or a cocktail dress with strands of chiffon tubing creating a cage-like structure. Classic white shirts with dipping hems and fly-front plackets; two pants shapes, either fluid and wide-legged or narrow-fit straight-cut; full maxiskirts with dipping hemline at the sides; sporty gilets with large fold-over collars or minimal collarless gilets with asymmetric zip closure; wrap-over tops; tailored dresses including a leather shift with cap-sleeves; shorts suits and an off-the-shoulder playsuit; a printed halterneck gown with deep plunging neckline
Colour: Crisp optic white and faux nude with colourful bursts of Seville orange, vivid teal, saturated leaf green; darker tones arrived as navy and pewter
Fabric & knit: Cotton, linen, leather, denim and a host of silks including silk organza, open-mesh silk knits, washed silk, parachute silk and shantung
Print & pattern: Overblown photoreal orchid florals, placement sections on white grounds
Details & trims: Oversized fold-over collars, misaligned asymmetric hems, dipping hems, inverted pleats, zip-open necklines, double-layered jacket details, double spaghetti straps, wrap-over tops
Footwear: Tall closed-toe shoes with rocking platform
Accessories: Oversized squashy bags carried as clutches, small formal clutch bags, minimal colour-coordinated leather waist belts
Alexis Mabille
It was femininity all the way at Alexis Mabille's latest showing as the designer played with a holiday theme, combining subtle nautical references with full flirty silhouettes and a sunny, summery feel.
The look: A feminine twist on summer resort
Silhouette: Girly-flirty with waist emphasis
Key items: It was girly all the way, with full dirndl skirts, shapely ruffled biker jackets, paper-bag shorts and frilled peplum bustiers. Narrow cigarette-shaped jeans, a drawstring utility dress and a billowing parka added a more sporty touch, but bow-trimmed boat-neck tees, halterneck waisted dresses and frilled gypsy blouses made sure the feminine message wasn't lost along the way.
Colour: An almost monochrome palette of black and white, with greyed denim blue, sand and soft iced pales
Fabric & knit: Satin, glazed cotton, simple cottons, self-stripe jersey, cotton voile, eyelet, delicate Chantilly lace, leather and denim
Print & pattern: A stylised black and white floral print; graphic black and white stripes used as a trim or as an all-over
Details & trims: Nautical lacing details, striped braid, frilled peplums
Footwear: Flower-trimmed laced shooties, ankle-tie sandals
Accessories: Exaggerated fishnets, necklaces in white or turquoise multiple flat stones
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