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Hermès
It was Jean Paul Gaultier's final parade around the Hermès ring this season, and the designer went back to the house roots for it. Turning up the equestrian heritage to full volume, JPG's own legacy touch arrived through masterful tailoring and an expert handling of the signature Hermès leathers.
The look: Equestrian dominatrix with a hint of Argentinian horse power
Silhouette: Expertly tailored
Key items: A heavy emphasis on tailoring, with masculine-toned suits with pleat-front fluid wide-leg pants and abbreviated jackets. An abundance of signature leatherwear, with secondskin pants, shorts - either loose and rolled or cuffed jodhpur-style - waistcoats, corsets and girdles, and several blazers including an innovative translucent crocodile option. A navy suede mac, a heavy-gauge sweater dress, T-shirt-style tops, leather or suede panelled cardigans, jodhpur-patched treggings and jodhpur-style bandeau jumpsuits, an unstructured shirt-like four-pocket safari jacket, haltergowns with sheer mousseline capes for evening
Colour: White, black, grey, sandy neutrals, tan, orange, navy blue and a single shot of sage greenFabric & knit: Leather, suede, a unique transparent crocodile, silk, cashmere wools, heavy knits, chiffon, mousseline
Print & pattern: A scarf print featuring a cart wheel, ombré shading
Details & trims: Jodhpur inner-knee patches, whipstitching
Footwear: Criss-cross and woven leather sandals with Sam Browne stud strap, classic riding boots, lace-up peep toes
Accessories: Strappy body harnesses, horse-bit belts, belts fashioned our of long whips, gaucho hats, stacked enamel bracelets, mini Birkin bags hanging from bracelets, wicker Birkin bag
Louis Vuitton
Marc Jacobs first hinted that the 70s was his decade of choice with his eponymous show in New York earlier this season. For Louis Vuitton, he brought 70s disco to Paris, by way of the decadent 20s and with a playful dose of Orientalism, which made for a stellar show on the final day of Fashion Week.
The look: Studio 54 relocates to 1920s China
Silhouette: Long and lean 70s shapes
Key items: The 1920s references arrived as playful tier-fringed flapper dresses, while cheongsams and Mandarin-collared satin pantsuits, halter-tops and coats added an Oriental flavour. But it was 70s disco that underpinned the collection, with open-plunge semi-sheer glitter knit tops and square-cut T-shaped tops teamed with long high-waisted flat-front pencil skirts, long knitted tube dresses - some with thigh-high splits - halter-gowns, a spaghetti-strapped silk jumpsuit and a series of wrap-skirts, dresses and tops
Colour: Colour-blocked pops of violet, fuchsia, turquoise, sunshine yellow and orange, with black, white, gold and glitter metallics
Fabric & knit: Satin duchesse, lurex-shot glitter knits, LV-monogrammed lace, silk jersey, tweed, mercerised cotton, crinkle-pressed satin, semi-sheer knits, heavy-gauge knit
Print & pattern: An iris floral in all-over scale-mix repeat (red on blue) or placement (pink on black); colour-blocking edged in black trim; animal-head placements that morph into all-over animal stripe
Details & trims: Sequinned giraffe, tiger and zebra heads on heavy knits, black edging, beaded fringing, Mandarin collars and Oriental-style frogging, cutaway necklines, large square patch pockets
Footwear: Skinny-strapped sandals with skinny heels and no platform
Accessories: Clutch bags with long silk-fringe tassels, patent colour-blocked clutch bags, long chain-handled shoulder bags with contrast-colour piping, lace fans, long silk-fringe tassel earrings, wide sequin sash belts with popper-stud rear fastenings
Miu Miu
Lolita-style subversive sex appeal has been the leitmotif for Prada's little-sister line over the past few seasons, and it has carried the label to a cult-like success. But as if rejecting all that, this season Miuccia Prada took a scathing look at the current obsession with fame, and it resulted in a kind of anti-glamour statement that unfortunately brought with it a kind of anti-desirability.
The look: Anti-glamour
Silhouette: Bulky top halves and a demure knee-length
Key items: The long-sleeved, knee-length satin dress played out in repeat throughout the collection - some arriving plain and belted, others featuring pleated panels or topped with bulky oversized zip-through leather jackets, which swamped the awkward-looking models. Other key pieces included sleeveless satin shell tops with shell-shaped cutout yokes, and knee-length kilts with two wide leather buckle straps. There were also box-pleated skirts, simple cotton dresses, and dresses with T-shirt-shaped tops and leather skirts
Colour: Royal blue, poppy red, neon yellow, black and white, with gold and silver metallic leathers
Fabric & knit: Satin, slicked leather, cotton
Print & pattern: Stars were the mot du jour and arrived as overblown off-centre placements, a constellation-effect all-over pattern and a diminutive repeat; a monochrome snake climbing a sparse tree branch and a swan; a Clarice Cliff-style tree; and a deadly-looking lotus flower
Details & trims: Irregular leather star and lotus appliqués, sliced colour-blocking, neat pleats and bow-pleated insert panels, a bobble-headed fringe, star-shaped buttons, cutout yokes
Footwear: Closed-toe heels with double or triple straps
Accessories: Super-skinny waist belts in neon leather, mid-size clutch bags
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