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Jean Paul Gaultier
The invitation's 3-D glasses for the Jean Paul Gaultier show shouldhave offered a clue to his larger-than-life showing, from theappearance of a plus-size Beth Ditto to the totally over-the-topstyling, which ran through a medley of JPG's greatest hits to a rockingJoan Jett soundtrack.
The look: A Jean Paul Gautier razzmatazz extravaganza
Silhouette: Hourglass
Key items: The JPG signatures were all in place, albeitreworked and layered in offbeat combinations - biker jackets underankle-length dresses; matelot knit all-in-ones; western jackets withsharp peaked shoulderlines emphasised with a ridge of piping; jeans andjean jackets in ruched sheers; pleated trench coats; leather bikergilets and frilled showgirl knickers; safari dresses; mesh bustiers;crinnie dresses and gypsy tops all mixed in with billowing Las Vegasshowgirl capes; sheer lace dresses; metal breastplates; and joggingpants
Colour: The palette was as diverse as the looks on show, withvivid red, black and white, denim blue, maize, sand, khaki and absinthegreen
Fabric & knit: Satins and silk, ruched sheers, nylon, jersey, leather, mesh, plissé satin, macramé, denim and lace
Print & pattern: A starry constellation print, matelot stripes, a frondy jungle print and a pastel-hued traditional chintz floral
Details & trims: Piping and topstitching
Footwear: Follow-me showgirl ankle-strap shoes, chunky Dr Martens
Accessories: Waist-whittling corset belts and lace or fishnethosiery added to the showgirl look, with plaited harnesses, corsages,metal collars and cuffs, and crucifixes for that good-girl-gone-bad look
Viktor & Rolf
The masculine/feminine riff is a familiar theme at Viktor & Rolf, but forsummer they took just one item - a man's shirt - and turned it into a fullcollection of dresses, tops, shirt-cuffed trousers and even wedding gowns.
"When your brandis 164 years old, you can't ignore its history," said Stuart Vevers afterhis show for Spanish heritage brand Loewe. "You have to respect it, but atthe same time you have to keep pushing things forward." For summer 2011,this meant a palette of poppy candy colours and short lengths for a flirty,youthful direction.
Lit by hundreds ofheat-producing orange lights that drenched the runway in a hallucinogenic neonglow - and front-row perspiration - Cédric Charlier's third outing for Cacharelwas a stand-out collection that offered some of the best fluoro tones seen thisseason.
Sonia Rykiel doesn'ttry to reinvent the wheel every season, and that can be refreshing in times offast fashion and faddish trends. However, in a runway format, a familiarsignature can sometimes feel a little flat - not something one can usually sayabout a smiley Rykiel show, but despite the giggling bouncy-haired girls, thisseason Rykiel failed to pack her usual joie-de-vivre punch.
Junya Watanabe
A day at the seaside for Junya Watanabe, who played with a nauticaltheme, taking his naval stripe mixes to the max with scale mixes andcut-about effects worked into feminine Edwardiana silhouettes.
Silhouette: Hourglass
Key items: The JPG signatures were all in place, albeitreworked and layered in offbeat combinations - biker jackets underankle-length dresses; matelot knit all-in-ones; western jackets withsharp peaked shoulderlines emphasised with a ridge of piping; jeans andjean jackets in ruched sheers; pleated trench coats; leather bikergilets and frilled showgirl knickers; safari dresses; mesh bustiers;crinnie dresses and gypsy tops all mixed in with billowing Las Vegasshowgirl capes; sheer lace dresses; metal breastplates; and joggingpants
Colour: The palette was as diverse as the looks on show, withvivid red, black and white, denim blue, maize, sand, khaki and absinthegreen
Fabric & knit: Satins and silk, ruched sheers, nylon, jersey, leather, mesh, plissé satin, macramé, denim and lace
Print & pattern: A starry constellation print, matelot stripes, a frondy jungle print and a pastel-hued traditional chintz floral
Details & trims: Piping and topstitching
Footwear: Follow-me showgirl ankle-strap shoes, chunky Dr Martens
Accessories: Waist-whittling corset belts and lace or fishnethosiery added to the showgirl look, with plaited harnesses, corsages,metal collars and cuffs, and crucifixes for that good-girl-gone-bad look
Viktor & Rolf
The masculine/feminine riff is a familiar theme at Viktor & Rolf, but forsummer they took just one item - a man's shirt - and turned it into a fullcollection of dresses, tops, shirt-cuffed trousers and even wedding gowns.
"We wanted something crisp, fresh, polished andgraphic. The man's shirt is not ladylike, so that was a good starting point forus to try and do something that wasboth polished and ladylike," said Viktor Horsting and Rolf Snoeren.
The look: Thecollection was titled Shirt Symphony
Silhouette: Dome-shouldered,short lengths
Key items:Deconstructed and reconstructed men's shirts - oversized and layered withstacked collars and flat-pressed cuffs, elongated into a maxi shirtdress withdipped hem and off-shoulder neckline, short-sleeved and cape-backed,bib-fronted and dome shouldered or cropped at the front with long extendedtails at the back. Shirts were worn with cropped straight-leg pants with abuttoned shirt cuff at the ankle, humbug-striped treggings, or relaxed-fitshorts with long shirt tails tucked through the legs. A partywear section ofpouffy ruched cocktail dresses with contrasting skintight Lycra or lace panelsbanding mid-sections of the torso or arms; tailored Capri pants worn withsemi-sheer organza shirts; a finale of surreal white wedding dresses, withlayered skirts made up of shapely starched shirt tails and necklines of stackedor multi-layered collars and cuffs
Colour: Plenty ofclassic black-and-white combinations with vivid shots of colour - red, cobalt,aqua and flamingo pink
Fabric & knit:Cotton, poplin, lustrous satin, silk taffeta, textured lace, organza, ribbon,stylised piqué
Print & pattern:Banker stripes, humbug stripes
Details & trims:Stripes made from shredded silk ribbon, sequinned zebra stripes, dress-shirtbibs, flyaway caped backs, floral lace appliqués on lace, pearl beading, silverbead cuff-links
Footwear: Apartfrom a stiletto-heeled sheer peep-toe ankle boot with frilly cuff, all footwearhad a platform and high block heels. Shoe styles included peep-toe pennyloafers with leather tassels, cutaway slingbacks with chain detail, cowboysandal boots in two lengths
Accessories:Small boxy-construction clutch bags with wrist strap, oversized under-armclutch bag, mesh demi veils
Loewe
"When your brandis 164 years old, you can't ignore its history," said Stuart Vevers afterhis show for Spanish heritage brand Loewe. "You have to respect it, but atthe same time you have to keep pushing things forward." For summer 2011,this meant a palette of poppy candy colours and short lengths for a flirty,youthful direction.
"The first word we had for this collection was 'joy'. Wewanted it to feel up and positive. We started with the colour palette andlooking at the signatures of the house, and that for me was the colourfulleather - that's what Loewe is known for," Stuart Vevers told WGSN.
The look:Youthful summertime
Silhouette: Shortand straight-cut
Key items:Leatherwear including T-shirts, straight-cut miniskirts, shift dresses and awrap-over coat and jacket with draped collar. Suede pieces included shiftdresses, a halterneck top, a Peter Pan-collared blouson jacket with matchingrunning shorts, a baby-pink mac, flat-front wide-leg pants, short A-line skirtsand a puffa gilet paired with silky running shorts. Elsewhere there was a fluidsilk pyjama suit, pussy-bow blouses, and short skirts with waterfall ruffles atthe sides
Colour: Candypink and orange sherbet, coral, turquoise, soft blue-grey and classic Loewebeige, rich chestnut and black
Fabric & knit:Leather, suede, ponyskin, lamé, heavy-gauge knits, silk
Print & pattern:Polka dots, butterflies and a dark-brown leopard print on ponyskin
Details & trims:Vertical-ruffle frills, Peter Pan collars, tiny laser-cut leather flowers withgold bead centre, leather fringing
Footwear:Ladylike kitten heels and flat pumps, both with pointed toes
Accessories: Silkheadscarves, leather Alice
Cacharel
Lit by hundreds ofheat-producing orange lights that drenched the runway in a hallucinogenic neonglow - and front-row perspiration - Cédric Charlier's third outing for Cacharelwas a stand-out collection that offered some of the best fluoro tones seen thisseason.
"My inspiration was a dream set on a boat, where YvesSaint Laurent is talking with Andy Warhol. At the same time you see Kim Gordonis talking with Grace Jones! More than anything I wanted to create an allurethat was super-euphoric through colour," Cédric Charlier told WGSN.
The look: Trippycolour pop
Silhouette:Minimal, graphic shapes with swing
Key items:Minimal shapes without unfussy detailing - fly-front shirts with elbow-lengthsleeves, short-sleeved shirts, a flat-fronted cap-sleeved playsuit, plainmidi-length T-shirt dress, cropped straight-leg pants, shirtwaisters, abib-fronted smock and simple A-line sweater dresses with a rolled bateauneckline. Oversized shrug on cardigans and cropped sweaters in heavy-gaugeknits, short high-waisted shorts paired with a ruffle-front blouse, culottes, apleated nipped-waist sundress, a sporty nylon jacket with utility pockets anddrawcord hem, midi-length halterneck sundresses
Colour: Thepalette developed as the show progressed, starting with faux nude, blush andskin pinks, before moving through bubblegum, orange sherbet, vivid geranium andsulphur yellow, before coming together in dappled prints tempered with black,grey and fawn
Fabric & knit:Silk, cotton, poplin, seersucker, techno nylons, heavy-gauge knits
Print & pattern:Mottled and dappled light-diffused effects in charcoal, nude, white andgeranium, or yellow, white and fawn
Details & trims:Ruffled fins, fine pin-tucking, rolled necklines on knitwear
Footwear:Block-heeled T-bar sandals, peep-toe ankle boots with cutaway sides
Accessories:Peaked sunglasses with yellow- or orange-tinted lenses, oversized clutch bags,neon leather belts
Sonia Rykiel
Sonia Rykiel doesn'ttry to reinvent the wheel every season, and that can be refreshing in times offast fashion and faddish trends. However, in a runway format, a familiarsignature can sometimes feel a little flat - not something one can usually sayabout a smiley Rykiel show, but despite the giggling bouncy-haired girls, thisseason Rykiel failed to pack her usual joie-de-vivre punch.
The look: Subtle70s
Silhouette:Oversized and wide-cut
Key items:Body-conscious sweaters and knitted dresses with faux sweetheart shaping;wide-sleeved roomy cotton playsuit with buttoned-shoulder detail; paper-bag-waistedbaggy trousers with casual turn-ups worn with oversized tunics, smocks or coats;a kimono-sleeved stripey sweater dress; oversized cotton coat with sailorcollar; high-wait flat-front gauchos; dungarees and a dungaree-dress; oversizedmannish pant suits; knitted treggings with knee patches and contrast-colouredcuffs; zip-through cardigans with cropped leg-of-mutton sleeves; a finale ofstriped sweaters and knitted high-waist briefs or hotpants
Colour: A subduedpalette for the rainbow queen - cinnamon, terracotta reds, cosmetique nudes,blush pink, ochre and lemon yellow, with flashes of teal, fuchsia and bubblegumtowards the end
Fabric & knit:Cotton, poplin, jersey, printed silks, mid-gauge knits, ribbed knits, knittedsheers, silk chiffon
Print & pattern:Colour-blocking, signature knitted stripes, spots and dotty starburst patterns
Details & trims:Matelot buttoning, buttoned shoulders, gold macro paillettes
Footwear: Ultra-high platform wedges with slingbacks and atiny self bow on the peep-toe; high espadrilles in denim or satin witha raised inverted seam on the upper; flat sandals with fabric ankleties and chain trims
Accessories:Striped satchels, oversized bag with huge studs, gardener's hats - some withbeaded or tasselled strings, cats-eye or oversized round sunglasses, obi belts
Footwear: Ultra-high platform wedges with slingbacks and atiny self bow on the peep-toe; high espadrilles in denim or satin witha raised inverted seam on the upper; flat sandals with fabric ankleties and chain trims
Accessories:Striped satchels, oversized bag with huge studs, gardener's hats - some withbeaded or tasselled strings, cats-eye or oversized round sunglasses, obi belts
Junya Watanabe
A day at the seaside for Junya Watanabe, who played with a nauticaltheme, taking his naval stripe mixes to the max with scale mixes andcut-about effects worked into feminine Edwardiana silhouettes.
The look: Edwardiana beach belles
Silhouette: Short-over-long layering
Key items: This was a collection about mismatched layering,with long tunic knits, smock dresses and cropped knits layered overeasy half-mast pants or striped leggings. Matelot sweaters,crystal-pleat skirts and simple striped jersey two-piece dressing sathappily side by side with drop-waist coats and dresses, a riff ontrench-coat styling and a sporty blouson cagoule
Colour: A nautical palette of navy and white, spliced with denim and chambray blue, with black and a singular flash of violet
Fabric & knit: Striped knits and jersey, linen, denim and chambray, offset with the more delicate qualities of lace and georgette
Print & pattern: Stripes in every way, combined inmismatched scale mixes, cut about into optic graphic patterns, alloffset with a simple spot and an all-over print featuring nauticalmotifs on a cream ground
Details & trims: Nautical braid, contrast buttons and topstitching
Footwear: Flat masculine oxfords
Accessories: Straw hats and bright punky wigs
Haider Ackermann
A beautifully judged collection from Haider Ackermann, who magicallydeconstructed biker jackets and kimonos to create an elegantly leansilhouette full of feminine whimsy.
Silhouette: Short-over-long layering
Key items: This was a collection about mismatched layering,with long tunic knits, smock dresses and cropped knits layered overeasy half-mast pants or striped leggings. Matelot sweaters,crystal-pleat skirts and simple striped jersey two-piece dressing sathappily side by side with drop-waist coats and dresses, a riff ontrench-coat styling and a sporty blouson cagoule
Colour: A nautical palette of navy and white, spliced with denim and chambray blue, with black and a singular flash of violet
Fabric & knit: Striped knits and jersey, linen, denim and chambray, offset with the more delicate qualities of lace and georgette
Print & pattern: Stripes in every way, combined inmismatched scale mixes, cut about into optic graphic patterns, alloffset with a simple spot and an all-over print featuring nauticalmotifs on a cream ground
Details & trims: Nautical braid, contrast buttons and topstitching
Footwear: Flat masculine oxfords
Accessories: Straw hats and bright punky wigs
Haider Ackermann
A beautifully judged collection from Haider Ackermann, who magicallydeconstructed biker jackets and kimonos to create an elegantly leansilhouette full of feminine whimsy.
The look: Biker girls meet geishas
Silhouette: Long and elegantly louche
Key items: The biker jacket was reworked as a kimono dress,as a gilet to layer over a floor-sweeping crystal-pleat skirt, or as alaced-hem biker pant topped with a Grecian draped top. Kimono wrapjackets were spliced and sliced into déshabillé tops, bodices onfloor-puddling red-carpet gowns, or minimised into a plunging fronttuxedo lapel atop a limpid columnar silhouette
Colour: Black, white and midnight anchored a palette ofvibrant poppy, ultraviolet, peacock, golden yellow and jade green, withaccents of smoke grey and faux nude
Fabric & knit: Leather, jersey, satin and silky charmeuse, striped satin
Print & pattern: Simple woven stripes
Details & trims: Lacing at the hems of cropped biker pants
Footwear: Elegantly high strappy sandals
Accessories: Casually tied obi sashes worked as belts or as a bow nestling in the draped back of a strappy gown
Comme des Garçons
Rei Kawakubo took the fundamentals of a woman's wardrobe - a simpledress, a tailored jacket, the biker and a trench - and turned them ontheir head, literally, splicing and deconstructing as she went. Theresult may have been an exercise in fashion conceptualism, butproportions and silhouettes were perfectly coordinated and showed thedesigner's masterly hand.
Silhouette: Long and elegantly louche
Key items: The biker jacket was reworked as a kimono dress,as a gilet to layer over a floor-sweeping crystal-pleat skirt, or as alaced-hem biker pant topped with a Grecian draped top. Kimono wrapjackets were spliced and sliced into déshabillé tops, bodices onfloor-puddling red-carpet gowns, or minimised into a plunging fronttuxedo lapel atop a limpid columnar silhouette
Colour: Black, white and midnight anchored a palette ofvibrant poppy, ultraviolet, peacock, golden yellow and jade green, withaccents of smoke grey and faux nude
Fabric & knit: Leather, jersey, satin and silky charmeuse, striped satin
Print & pattern: Simple woven stripes
Details & trims: Lacing at the hems of cropped biker pants
Footwear: Elegantly high strappy sandals
Accessories: Casually tied obi sashes worked as belts or as a bow nestling in the draped back of a strappy gown
Comme des Garçons
Rei Kawakubo took the fundamentals of a woman's wardrobe - a simpledress, a tailored jacket, the biker and a trench - and turned them ontheir head, literally, splicing and deconstructing as she went. Theresult may have been an exercise in fashion conceptualism, butproportions and silhouettes were perfectly coordinated and showed thedesigner's masterly hand.
The look: Abstract deconstruction
Silhouette: Layered tailoring and hourglass dresses
Key items: Wardrobe basics - the tailored DB, thefit-and-flare dress, lean military coats, parkas and biker jackets -were deconstructed, trailing sleeves at their hems, worked intoasymmetric mismatched proportions, given a singular ruffled sleeve, ora caped shoulderline, or were bound with a contrasting flat plane offabric
Colour: A concise and unfussy palette of black, white and a chiaroscuro of greys
Fabric & knit: Washed cottons and wools combined withweightless nylons, bonded vinyls and flat quilted effects, stripedcottons and cotton shirtweights
Print & pattern: Simple spots and the designer's signature black and white chequerboard patterns
Details & trims: Gold buttons tracing the front of a military coat
Footwear: Flat shoes in black, or in black and white
Accessories: Socks, wide belts and neat cloche hats
Silhouette: Layered tailoring and hourglass dresses
Key items: Wardrobe basics - the tailored DB, thefit-and-flare dress, lean military coats, parkas and biker jackets -were deconstructed, trailing sleeves at their hems, worked intoasymmetric mismatched proportions, given a singular ruffled sleeve, ora caped shoulderline, or were bound with a contrasting flat plane offabric
Colour: A concise and unfussy palette of black, white and a chiaroscuro of greys
Fabric & knit: Washed cottons and wools combined withweightless nylons, bonded vinyls and flat quilted effects, stripedcottons and cotton shirtweights
Print & pattern: Simple spots and the designer's signature black and white chequerboard patterns
Details & trims: Gold buttons tracing the front of a military coat
Footwear: Flat shoes in black, or in black and white
Accessories: Socks, wide belts and neat cloche hats
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