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Stella McCartney
A safe collection from Stella McCartney, full of her signature tailoring and an evolution of the boxy shapes she introduced last season, as she played the plain and simple card to the max.
The look: Less is more (although it can sometimes look a little mumsy)
Silhouette: Relaxed, laidback and boxy
Key items: Tailoring came in the form of easy pantsuits with high-rise cropped pants adding a point of difference, while jackets were cut with a generous relaxed fit, teamed with soft-knit polo shirts. Elsewhere it was all about boxy tunics and T-shaped dresses, wide-cut woven polo tops and easy boyish shorts, while a selection of long slashed-skirt dresses and halter necklines brought in a subtly sexy aesthetic
Colour: Colour-washed pales, denim blues, a shot of vivid chrome yellow, black and white
Fabric & knit: Silky twill suiting, denim, satin, soft jersey
Print & pattern: A botanical print featuring oranges, lemons and limes in zingy citric colours on a white ground, appearing in scale mixes, or as an alternative colourway in tonal blues as a small-scale all-over
Footwear: Simple strap sandals with feature buckles
Accessories: Satchel shoulder bags
Chloé
Hannah MacGibbon’s Charlie Girls were one of winter’s hottest looks, channelling that bang-on-trend 70s vibe. For summer 2011, she took Chloé to the dance studio, with second-skin tops, plissé skirts and midi-length tulle tutus. But she perhaps overplayed the minimalism that her 30-something set (Philo and McCartney her counterparts) have carved out as their signature, failing to capture the zeitgeist of the season this time round.
The look: Minimal dance
Silhouette: Sleek lines with full-skirted flare
Key items: Crisp cotton shirtwaister dresses with full skirts and sash-tie waists; midi-length plissé or sheer tulle skirts teamed with second-skin tops; sporty pieces including collarless zip-through jackets, luxe track pants and signature leather shorts updated with an elasticated waistband; minimal coats with cutaway neckline and 2DB wrap closure or funnel neck and fly front; an LBD shift with leather shell top and crepe skirt with a slashed midriff; slash-front blouses and tops
Colour: White, black, beige, café crème and a single shot of dark red
Fabric & knit: Silk chiffon, plissé, cotton, silk, crepe, second-skin Lycra knits, slicked leather
Details & trims: Ruching, sporty collarless necklines, bandage-wrap bodice
Footwear: Flat sandals with toe loop and wide ankle cuff in leather or clear plastic, flat sandals with cross-over straps and Sam Browne stud fastening, soft-structure ballet pumps in collection colours
Accessories: Mini hard box clutches, larger clutch bags with a zip-round box construction, handbag-sized top-handle holdalls
Giambattista Valli
The present and the past collided at Giambattista Valli, with a romp that took in 60s silhouettes, leopardskin prints, Baroque-inspired patterns, Romanesque drapes and a finale of puffball feathers and organza petalled evening gowns.
The look: Futuristic antiquarian
Silhouette: Short and tunic shaped or softly draped
Key items: Simple A-line shifts and miniskirts, wrapped drape skirts, short cropped jackets and cigarette pants, fit-and-flare shifts, safari-style shirtdresses, sheer tunics, crystal-pleat skirts and simple shell tops, white shirts, draped Grecian goddess gowns
Colour: Flame red, faux nude and palest taupe neutrals, white, black, mimosa yellow
Fabric & knits: Gingham checks, chiffon, organza, silk with metallic silk jacquarded borders featuring a paisley motif, cloqué, compact cotton poplins, feathers
Print & pattern: A scrolling Baroque print on white grounds as borders or as a single engineered placement on white organza. Scale-mixed skin prints and a paisley jacquard in silver and white
Details & trims: Guipure lace placements, contrasting bands and borders to emphasise silhouettes. Feather and petals
Footwear: Flat Grecian-style sandals
Accessories: Minimalist metal collars and simple metal belts
Emanuel Ungaro
Emanuel UngaroAll eyes were on Giles Deacon yesterday in Paris, where the designer was making his debut at Emanuel Ungaro. It can't have been easy making the quantum leap from being the darling of the London East End scene to being a player on the world stage at a hallowed Parisian house. The designer may have cornered the Ungaro DNA, but he presented a collection rooted in the past and totally devoid of a signature handwriting.
The look: Politely ladylike with a Parisian gloss
Silhouette: Short, neat and feminine
Key items: Thigh-high cocktail dresses; neat ladylike ladies-who-lunch suits; cropped flared pants and lace blouses or shell tops; draped bustiers and short draped goddess dresses; plunging halterneck red-carpet gowns
Colour: Palest pink and baby blue, black, grey and shades of amethyst
Fabric & knits: Delicate lace, metallic tweeds, Lurex knits, pointelle knits, organza, silk crepe, wool crepe, matt sequins, satin charmeuse, metallic jacquard weave, feathers
Print & pattern: The house’s signature spot was combined with a mini daisy motif on a dusted pink ground; a painterly floral on a white ground
Details & Trims: Lace trims, feather corsages, backless details, beading and Swarovski jewelled embellishment, flower buttons, floral braid trims on tweed suits
Footwear: Peep-toe shoes
Accessories: Fishnets, chain-strap bags that came feathered or embellished, feathered hats, jewelled belts
Yves Saint Laurent
With designers across the board openly referencing Saint Laurent’s iconic 70s looks this season, it seems only right that the house itself pays homage. Stefano Pilati managed to revisit and reinvigorate some of YSL’s most famous looks without slavishly following suit. It was a polished example of Parisian perfection from a designer who is more than capable of handling such a rich heritage.
The look: Classic French chic
Silhouette: Lean tailoring versus full-skirted flare
Key items: Signature YSL pieces such as Le Smoking translated into sophisticated all-in-ones with a raised waistline and halterneck tops or plunging necklines, reinterpreted 70s peasant looks including midi-length dresses with large ruffled trims or blouses with voluminous sleeves and pussy bows, and a nod to classic YSL safari with beige tailored dresses. Tailoring saw warp-closure jackets - sometimes sleeveless - with wide peaked lapels paired with fluid wide-leg pants or an A-line skirt with daring front split and single patch pocket
Colour: Navy and inky black, white, teal, ultramarine, classic beige and pops of Seville orange and fuchsia pink
Fabric & knit: Silk, taffeta, mottle-textured jacquard, crepe, cotton, luxe wool suiting, marabou feather
Print & pattern: A delicately shaded thumb-print repeat
Details & trims: Contrast edging trims, single patch pockets set on an angle, slashed midriffs, subtly sexy cutouts at the side of the waist, peplum-hemmed skirts, large ruffles
Footwear: Shaped wedges that extend past the heel, string-strapped platform sandals in recoloured python print, concave-shaped wedges with filigree straps
Accessories: Marabou-feathered ruff, printed chiffon neck scarves, suede waist belts in wide and narrow widths, wishbone-shaped bracelets in hammered gold metal
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