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Saturday, January 22, 2011
Live From... Paris Menswear, Day 2
Junya Watanabe
Comme des Garçons
A darkened room only serves to heighten the mashed-upeccentricity of Rei Kawakubo’s dandy guys, dressed in layers of patternedjacquard, silky robe coats, Chaplin-esque shrunken jackets and wide swingingpants all finished with a mop of curly hair.
Givenchy 
Riccardo Tisci has been playingwith streetwear silhouettes for several seasons now, but for next winter thosesame wide-cut shorts and baseball jackets take a darker turn, emblazoned withvicious rottweilers and trompe l’oeil chains. This is perhaps his way ofcommenting on the violent gang culture penetrating the youth scene at themoment, the blood red roses framing the runway a further reminder that deathlies at the end of this tragic pathway.
John Galliano
Never brash or showy, JunyaWatanabe’s quiet sensibility led to a strong and focused collection of reworkedmenswear staples, such as short duffels in slicked leather, Fair Isle-patternedblazers and cropped trousers that had the all the comfort and casualness of ajogging pant.
The look: A mix of collegiatetailoring and rustic outerwear
Silhouette: Ankle-swingingtrouser lengths, neatly fitted torsos
Key items: Croppedtrousers, either tailored or jogging-pant casual, worn with separate 2 or 3SBblazers in tweed, wool, Fair Isle or even cable knits; collegiate double-striperaglan sleeve cardigans both buttoned and zip-through; white collar shirts withclipped and rounded collars; classic outerwear items such as pea coats,duffels, wind cheaters and quilted puffa jacket
Colour: Black and inky navy blue,warm red, cream and flinty greys; a muted secondary palette of khaki and muddybrowns with plum
Fabric & knit: Double-facewool, slubby wools, Donegal tweed, flannel, slicked finish leathers, darkdenim, cotton shirting, waterproofed cottons, buffalo check linings, heritagefabrics including herringbone with over woven windowpane check, houndstooth,plaid
Print & pattern: Wovenpatterns including banded Fair Isle, Argyle diamonds, plaids and tartans
Details & trims: Splicedribbed knit shawl collars, contrast patch pockets; shoulder and elbow patches
Footwear: Tasselled loafers, lace-upderbys, deep-tread deck shoes and desert boots
Accessories: Bakerboy caps in buffalo check, cord or tweed; trilbys
Kris Van Assche
Taking the idea of thetraditional suit and trying to turn it into something younger and more urban is the aim of Kris Van Assche’s latest collection.
The look: Urban minimalism
Silhouette:Elongated lengths or oversized proportions juxtaposed with blocky, square-cuttailoring
Key items: Signaturelong-rise pants with a soft and generously cut leg alternating with a slimmerstraight-cut pant for more tailored looks; oversized sweaters and elongatedcardigan coats; cocoon-shaped zip-through coats with dropped sleeveheads andexaggerated fold-over polo neck; tailoring is squared but slim, with minimaljackets featuring collars that morph into scarves, part zipped-part buttonedclosures or completely concealed flay-fronts; square-cut ribbed knit gilets arelayered over tailored jackets
Colour: Strictly black, charcoal,slate and camel with crisp white shirts
Fabric & knit: Denseflat surface wools, fine wool suiting, cotton shirting, subtle plaids and thickribbed knits
Print & pattern: Dark,tone-on-tone plaid checks
Details & trims: Droppedsleeveheads, spliced sleeves, horizontal banded and spliced knit, concealedclosures, silver zips, exaggerated protective polo necks
Footwear: Round-toed boots with sidelace details
Accessories: Oversizedbags worn across the body on elongated straps
Comme des Garçons
A darkened room only serves to heighten the mashed-upeccentricity of Rei Kawakubo’s dandy guys, dressed in layers of patternedjacquard, silky robe coats, Chaplin-esque shrunken jackets and wide swingingpants all finished with a mop of curly hair.
The look: Eccentric decadence
Silhouette: Longlayers, loose fits
Key items: Widepants shapes are de rigueur – from palazzo and pyjama styles to super-widedenim jeans and buttoned-cuff harem derivatives; shawl-collared blazers arepinched across the chest, flaring downward with cutaway closures; gaudy silkshirts, foppish ruffle-front shirts and long-length patterned shirts leftuntucked are layered beneath, as are graphic-logo band tees; cotton outerwearis unstructured and crumpled; elongated DB overcoats reaches the shin whilesilky robe coats are offered for evening
Colour: Jet black, washed black,smoky greys, yellow-toned khaki, dark denim blue and pops of red
Fabric & knit: Aplethora of patterned jacquards – floral, paisley, coin spotted; silk, lurex-shotpinstripe, crumpled and washed cottons, dark-dye Japanese denim, washed T-shirtjersey, soft felted wool
Print & pattern: Bandtee graphics, spliced scarf prints, signature polka dots
Details & trims:On-trend spliced sleeves, frilled shirt sleeve cuffs and collars
Footwear: Smooth plain boots withdeep tread, two-tone formal spectator lace-ups with broguing
Givenchy
Riccardo Tisci has been playingwith streetwear silhouettes for several seasons now, but for next winter thosesame wide-cut shorts and baseball jackets take a darker turn, emblazoned withvicious rottweilers and trompe l’oeil chains. This is perhaps his way ofcommenting on the violent gang culture penetrating the youth scene at themoment, the blood red roses framing the runway a further reminder that deathlies at the end of this tragic pathway.
The look: Fierce streetwear
Silhouette: Widecut and boxy
Key items: Streetwearstaples including baseball blousons, puffa jackets and fur-hooded bodywarmers,sweatshirt tops, oversized tees, wide-fit shirts and the signature wide shortsTisci has favoured recently; tailoring arrived as 2SB suits with flat-front pantswith turn-ups and spliced sleeve 3SB Crombie coats
Colour: Black, bitter chocolatebrown, inky midnight blue and cosmetique nude
Fabric & knit: Densewool, crisp cotton, sweatshirting, jersey, smooth waxy leathers, even plaids,beaver fur
Print & pattern: Rottweilergraphics as single placement motifs, composition border prints or worked intobandana-style scarf prints with stars; trompe l’oeil knit stitch and chainborders
Details & trims: Splicedsleeves, zipped shoulders on sweatshirts, popper fastenings
Footwear: Thick white-soled hi-topstrainers and knee-high lace-up boots
Accessories: Hosiery,felted caps, rucksacks, punk-goth belts with spike and ring hardware, bandanascarves with dog fang placement graphics, black thick-rimmed opticals
John Galliano
Rudolf Nureyev is John Galliano’s romanticised poster boy thisseason, as he tracks him from Russia to Europe, from ballet studio to stage.
The look: Russian ballet dancer
Silhouette: Chaoticallylayered
Key items: as if telling the story,the opening passage is the escape from Russia wrapped up in bulky great coats,thick ribbed-knit leggings or long-rise pants cropped on the knee and shrunkenpoor boy jackets; then Nureyev arrives in the West in slim-legged tailoredpants worn with neat DB Crombies and duffel coats before hitting the studio insecondskin ribbed knits and semi-sheer fine-gauge cardigans and vests, paddedpaper-bag-waist shorts and tapered pants; the final passage has a costumic feelwith fluid printed-silk pants, tie-waist shirts, decorative gilets andembellished sleeveless jackets, as well as a quilted satin and velvet smokingjacket
Colour: Dense greys, sooty blacks,pine green, rich plum and white
Fabric & knit: Leather,shearling, beaver, ponyskin, brushed yarn looped wool, heavy duty wools andfelts, checked wool suiting, classic pinstripe, velvet, watery silks,fine-gauge ribbed knits, a Russian-style floral intarsia
Print & pattern: Floraland fruit prints
Details & trims: Russian-inspiredgold thread embroideries and trims, fringed beading, lace appliqué, quilting,pieced leathers, paper-bag waists
Footwear: Tall pull-on boots insmooth plain leathers, scruffy red-laced work boots
Accessories: Chunkywool-fringed socks and gloves, legwarmers, thick knitted hats, printed silkscarves, turbans, a fox fur fat with tails, black aviator glasses with built-upbridges, military brooches
Friday, January 21, 2011
Live From... Paris Menswear, Day 1
Viktor & Rolf
Last season Viktor & Rolf reworked the classic shirt into a full womenswear collection, this season for men the motif is the suit. Running with the idea that a suit is simply two matching items, the designers offer leisurewear jogging suits and cotton shirt suits alongside their well-tailored traditional options.
The look: Re-imagined suits for every occasion
Silhouette: Lean and straightKey items: As an exploration of “the suit”, matching two-piece ensembles are the mot du jour, with examples ranging from a grey marl sweatshirt and jogging pant to a shirt-and-trouser set in matching white cotton poplin; more traditional tailored suits arrive as slim 2SBs with notched lapels and skinny pants or an unstructured DB suit with cutaway jacket closure and long-john leggings, and tuxedos for evening; outerwear comprises slender trench coats including one in quilted nylon, a fly-front commuter coat with quilted sleeves and cord collar, while shearling coats and jackets have both revers and a zip-up funnel neck collar; other on trend pieces include cord trousers in cropped length and a pieced sweater with exaggerated polo neck
Colour: Black, white, grey and camel with singular shots of midnight blue and vermilion red
Fabric & knit: Silk wool suiting, a lustrous check jacquard, brushed buffalo check flannel, shearling, corduroy, suede, check-quilted nylon, melange jersey, crisp cotton poplin
Print & pattern: Buffalo checksDetails & trims: Contrast-coloured shirt plackets and collars; peaked lapels in velvet or beaded check pattern for tux jackets; check quilting
Footwear: Formal lace-ups – some in buffalo-check printed leather, others with rubbed toes; monk-strapped shoes; suede loafers; military-esque boots with deep tread
Accessories: Shearling gloves; knee-high socks; shopper, briefcase and weekend bag in embossed and drummed buffalo leather
Rick Owens
With a signature aesthetic so distinct, Rick Owens collections are variations on a theme – monastic lengths, apocalyptic leather and androgynous dresses and skirts. Autumn/winter 2011/12 continues in much the same vein, with the addition perhaps of on-trend quilted nylons and puffas seen in Milan last week.
The look: Urban tribes
Silhouette: Elongated layers and cutaway fronts
Key items: Layered looks comprise funnel-neck wrap dresses, kilt-like leather skirts, polo-neck sweaters with extra-long sleeves, cutaway wrap coats and jackets either long and trailing or cropped at the chest with dipping hems; structured outerwear including duffel coats fastened with two rod-like metal toggles, zip-through jackets and coats with quilted nylon funnel necks
Colour: Strictly limited to black, white and pumice grey
Fabric & knit: Leathers including a polished and slicked finish, suede, shearling, cotton, quilted nylon, ridged wool, raw silk, shaved furs
Details & trims: Samurai-style stitched/ridged cotton edging, metal strips tracing jacket edges, puffa funnel necks, contrast trims
Footwear: Tall boots with asymmetrical zips working around the leg, boots with a central front zip worn open and flared
Accessories: Long suede gloves worn scrunched, three-quarter-length leather gloves
Theatrical to the very end, Jean Paul Gaultier plays with a James Bond theme this season, with deconstructed tuxedos and suave evening looks, sporty action-man puffas, wetsuits and lashings of metallics just perfect for Goldfinger villains.
The look: James Bond heroes and villains
Silhouette: Wide top halves, skinny legs
Key items: Peaked lapel tuxedos in multiple reincarnations including a sleeveless 8DB jacket, wide-cut 1SB lamé option and a trompe l’oeil zip-up shirt with pant shapes ranging from slim-leg pants to cropped gauchos and tailored micro shorts, as well as signature long-rise and dropped crotch styles; broad and abbreviated puffa jackets and wide-cut biker jackets; zip-through cardigans and polo-neck sweaters, scuba wetsuits worn as leggings, blousons with ribbed knit sleeves; signature bateau-neck sweaters and striped polo tees
Colour: Black, sandy beige, gold and flashes of orange and violet
Fabric & knit: Lamé, silk wool, pinstripes and yellow chalkstripe suitings, metallic-glazed knits, silk, satin, neoprene, cotton shirting, leather including bonded, shearling, Lycra jersey, quilted and padded nylons and rubberised technos
Print & pattern: A multicoloured paisley bandana print, a space navigation graphic, crackle effect in gold foil and gold foil stripes
Details & trims: Matelot buttoning, zipped trouser ankles, leather revers, all-over sequins, a sequinned skeleton-rib motif on tees, fox fur trims
Footwear: Chelsea boots, tall pull-on biker boots
Accessories: A new opticals range with Alain Mikli; extra-long scarves – silk with long fringe, white dress scarves, wool with short fringe; bow ties, miniature satchels
Juun J
Channelling a film noir mood, Juun J taps into shadowy spy chic, with caped-sleeved trench coats and 40s-inspired DB suits with wide pants.
The look: Film Noir redux
Silhouette: Caped, wide legs
Key items: 40s-style suits with oxford bags and DB jackets that fold upwards to act as a matching overcoat; double-sleeved (regular sleeve and cape slit) outerwear including biker jackets, trenches and puffa coats; striped shirts with knitted sleeves, mid-gauge polo sweaters and chunky V-neck tunic-length sweaters with sleeves that morph into a coiled scarf; there is also a slimmer pant shape – pleat-front but tapered
Colour: Black, grey and camelFabric & knit: Plaid wools and suitings, chalkstripe wool, striped cotton shirtings, flannel, tweed, leather, quilted and padded nylon, curly Mongolian lambPrint & pattern: A grainy pointillist effect, large-scale plaid checks
Details & trims: Leather edging, banded quilting, stitched leather, double sleeves and collars, spliced sleeves
Footwear: Chunky boots with abstract extended sole
Accessories: Detached Mongolian lamb collars, part-framed optical, skinny ties, knitted over-the-elbow gloves, zip-round leather document cases
Issey Miyake
There’s always a touch of surviving the elements in any Issey Miyake menswear presentation. This season didn’t disappoint with an easy mix of unstructured tailoring and weatherproof outerwear.The look: Town and countrySilhouette: Relaxed and unstructured
Key Items: Billowing unstructured macs and padded coats provided protection, layered over slim trousers, waterproof zippered pants and easy cuffed joggers, then teamed with chunky DB knits and cosy gilets. Apron-front details update relaxed-fit pants and tailoring comes as soft unstructured SBs or plaid tailored cabans with scarf-effect collars
Colour: A countrified palette of rustic greens like moss and olive are offset with rich bark browns, ochre, grey, taupe and aubergine
Fabric & knit: Tree bark textures, nylon, waxed or coated finishes, flannel, plaid, small-scale bicolour check and striped seersucker-effect shirtings
Print & Pattern: A splatter blot print, herringbone patterned tee, degradé striped shirtings
Details & trims: Apron fronts on soft tailored pants, scarf neckline on an SB
Footwear: Suede sneakers, laced ankle boots, rugged walking boots
Accessories: Bow ties, knitted beanies, plaid scarves, soft fisherman hats, overscaled bumbag
Louis Vuitton
A modern minimal look from Paul Helbers at Louis Vuitton, where the designer plays with reinventing classic shapes in a graphic cinematic-inspired palette.
The look: Minimalist menswear
Silhouette: Sharp and clean with minimal detailing
Key Items: Tailoring is a strong statement throughout this collection, reworked as belted wrap SBs and tuxes or with flat fly fronts and curved cutaway hemlines, all layered over collarless shirts or high-fastening vests. Seamed details add a linear touch to shirtings and suits with vertical panelling, matt-sheen fabric mixes or contrast panelled inserts. Helbers takes the season’s preoccupation with outerwear and reinvents it with puffa-style cagoules, leather puffa gilets, and parka hybrids. A padded parka hemline morphs into a tailored tuxedo jacket. Elsewhere the emphasis is on a luxe touch, with velvet trousers, tactile fur jackets and plush shearling, with an LV monogrammed velvet tux for evening
Colour: A strong graphic palette of black on black, winter white, rich espresso brown, anthracite and charcoal greys and a flash of vermilion red
Fabric & knit: A play on matt-shine fabrics sees a mix of luxe suitings, sooty black or grey velvet, satin, nylon and taffeta, leather, denim, flannel and rugged furs and shearling. Herringbone pattern knits, plated rib sweaters
Details & trims: Fur collars, velvet trims, panelling details with black-on-black matt-sheen mixes
Footwear: Mudguard soles, contrast toecap boots
Accessories: Crocodile document cases, weekend bags, plated rib scarves, bumbags and fanny packs
Dries Van Noten
David Bowie’s alter ego, The Thin White Duke, supplies the inspiration for Dries Van Noten’s playful collection, where the designer confidently twinned disparate silhouettes to great effect.
The look: Glamorous
Silhouette: Louche 40s vintage-meets-slick sportswear
Key items: The 40s-inspired louche DB suit set the scene for looks that combined slouchy tailored pleat-front pants with slick motocross jackets, zippered biker pants or an embroidered hussar’s jacket with chunky sleeveless fisherman knits, three-quarter-length tie-belt jackets with panelled skinny pants, a shawl collared blazer with voluminous cargo pants and classically-styled DB Crombies reworked with biker-style zips
Colour: Black, winter white, grey, camel, espresso and indigo with rich aubergine, a flash or cobalt and tanFabric & knit: Lush cashmere blend suiting and coatweights, tonal pinstripes and subtle banded stripes, velvet, flannel, brushed wools and mohair, rabbit and chinchilla; technical nylons; chunky heavy-gauge marled knits
Details & trims: Fur collars and revers-shaped tippets, contrast facings, biker style zips ,gold embroideryFootwear: Chunky soled boots
Accessories: Cross-body satchels on striped straps
Yohji Yamamoto
Yohji Yamamoto has no truck with trends, plying his singular vision with a Zen-like disregard for fashion. With an upcoming exhibition at London’s V&A museum this spring, that vision may be set to reach a broader appeal.
The look: Haphazard mismatched dressing
Silhouette: Voluminous and overscaled
Key Items: Voluminous throw-on coats and oversized DB suits have a dishevelled appeal, along with hiked-up paper-bag-waist trousers, high-button vests or waistcoats, chunky intarsia tunic knits and soft-collared shirts
Colour: Black, taupe and grey form the core of the palette with playful accents of cobalt and red
Fabric & knit: Softly structured tweeds add to the haphazard look, along with patchworked checks, mismatched pinstripes and chalk-striped flannels, with silk velvet adding a touch of vintage glamour
Print & pattern: Cherry and skeletal intarsia, Botticelli-style goddess prints, alpine jacquards
Details & trims: Soft tie belts on voluminous pant shapes, sequin or velvet top collars
Footwear: Laced work boots, sneakers
Accessories: Watch chains, high-crown trilbies, leather belts
Last season Viktor & Rolf reworked the classic shirt into a full womenswear collection, this season for men the motif is the suit. Running with the idea that a suit is simply two matching items, the designers offer leisurewear jogging suits and cotton shirt suits alongside their well-tailored traditional options.
The look: Re-imagined suits for every occasion
Silhouette: Lean and straightKey items: As an exploration of “the suit”, matching two-piece ensembles are the mot du jour, with examples ranging from a grey marl sweatshirt and jogging pant to a shirt-and-trouser set in matching white cotton poplin; more traditional tailored suits arrive as slim 2SBs with notched lapels and skinny pants or an unstructured DB suit with cutaway jacket closure and long-john leggings, and tuxedos for evening; outerwear comprises slender trench coats including one in quilted nylon, a fly-front commuter coat with quilted sleeves and cord collar, while shearling coats and jackets have both revers and a zip-up funnel neck collar; other on trend pieces include cord trousers in cropped length and a pieced sweater with exaggerated polo neck
Colour: Black, white, grey and camel with singular shots of midnight blue and vermilion red
Fabric & knit: Silk wool suiting, a lustrous check jacquard, brushed buffalo check flannel, shearling, corduroy, suede, check-quilted nylon, melange jersey, crisp cotton poplin
Print & pattern: Buffalo checksDetails & trims: Contrast-coloured shirt plackets and collars; peaked lapels in velvet or beaded check pattern for tux jackets; check quilting
Footwear: Formal lace-ups – some in buffalo-check printed leather, others with rubbed toes; monk-strapped shoes; suede loafers; military-esque boots with deep tread
Accessories: Shearling gloves; knee-high socks; shopper, briefcase and weekend bag in embossed and drummed buffalo leather
Rick Owens
With a signature aesthetic so distinct, Rick Owens collections are variations on a theme – monastic lengths, apocalyptic leather and androgynous dresses and skirts. Autumn/winter 2011/12 continues in much the same vein, with the addition perhaps of on-trend quilted nylons and puffas seen in Milan last week.
The look: Urban tribes
Silhouette: Elongated layers and cutaway fronts
Key items: Layered looks comprise funnel-neck wrap dresses, kilt-like leather skirts, polo-neck sweaters with extra-long sleeves, cutaway wrap coats and jackets either long and trailing or cropped at the chest with dipping hems; structured outerwear including duffel coats fastened with two rod-like metal toggles, zip-through jackets and coats with quilted nylon funnel necks
Colour: Strictly limited to black, white and pumice grey
Fabric & knit: Leathers including a polished and slicked finish, suede, shearling, cotton, quilted nylon, ridged wool, raw silk, shaved furs
Details & trims: Samurai-style stitched/ridged cotton edging, metal strips tracing jacket edges, puffa funnel necks, contrast trims
Footwear: Tall boots with asymmetrical zips working around the leg, boots with a central front zip worn open and flared
Accessories: Long suede gloves worn scrunched, three-quarter-length leather gloves
Jean Paul Gaultier
Theatrical to the very end, Jean Paul Gaultier plays with a James Bond theme this season, with deconstructed tuxedos and suave evening looks, sporty action-man puffas, wetsuits and lashings of metallics just perfect for Goldfinger villains.
The look: James Bond heroes and villains
Silhouette: Wide top halves, skinny legs
Key items: Peaked lapel tuxedos in multiple reincarnations including a sleeveless 8DB jacket, wide-cut 1SB lamé option and a trompe l’oeil zip-up shirt with pant shapes ranging from slim-leg pants to cropped gauchos and tailored micro shorts, as well as signature long-rise and dropped crotch styles; broad and abbreviated puffa jackets and wide-cut biker jackets; zip-through cardigans and polo-neck sweaters, scuba wetsuits worn as leggings, blousons with ribbed knit sleeves; signature bateau-neck sweaters and striped polo tees
Colour: Black, sandy beige, gold and flashes of orange and violet
Fabric & knit: Lamé, silk wool, pinstripes and yellow chalkstripe suitings, metallic-glazed knits, silk, satin, neoprene, cotton shirting, leather including bonded, shearling, Lycra jersey, quilted and padded nylons and rubberised technos
Print & pattern: A multicoloured paisley bandana print, a space navigation graphic, crackle effect in gold foil and gold foil stripes
Details & trims: Matelot buttoning, zipped trouser ankles, leather revers, all-over sequins, a sequinned skeleton-rib motif on tees, fox fur trims
Footwear: Chelsea boots, tall pull-on biker boots
Accessories: A new opticals range with Alain Mikli; extra-long scarves – silk with long fringe, white dress scarves, wool with short fringe; bow ties, miniature satchels
Juun J
Channelling a film noir mood, Juun J taps into shadowy spy chic, with caped-sleeved trench coats and 40s-inspired DB suits with wide pants.
The look: Film Noir redux
Silhouette: Caped, wide legs
Key items: 40s-style suits with oxford bags and DB jackets that fold upwards to act as a matching overcoat; double-sleeved (regular sleeve and cape slit) outerwear including biker jackets, trenches and puffa coats; striped shirts with knitted sleeves, mid-gauge polo sweaters and chunky V-neck tunic-length sweaters with sleeves that morph into a coiled scarf; there is also a slimmer pant shape – pleat-front but tapered
Colour: Black, grey and camelFabric & knit: Plaid wools and suitings, chalkstripe wool, striped cotton shirtings, flannel, tweed, leather, quilted and padded nylon, curly Mongolian lambPrint & pattern: A grainy pointillist effect, large-scale plaid checks
Details & trims: Leather edging, banded quilting, stitched leather, double sleeves and collars, spliced sleeves
Footwear: Chunky boots with abstract extended sole
Accessories: Detached Mongolian lamb collars, part-framed optical, skinny ties, knitted over-the-elbow gloves, zip-round leather document cases
Issey Miyake
There’s always a touch of surviving the elements in any Issey Miyake menswear presentation. This season didn’t disappoint with an easy mix of unstructured tailoring and weatherproof outerwear.The look: Town and countrySilhouette: Relaxed and unstructured
Key Items: Billowing unstructured macs and padded coats provided protection, layered over slim trousers, waterproof zippered pants and easy cuffed joggers, then teamed with chunky DB knits and cosy gilets. Apron-front details update relaxed-fit pants and tailoring comes as soft unstructured SBs or plaid tailored cabans with scarf-effect collars
Colour: A countrified palette of rustic greens like moss and olive are offset with rich bark browns, ochre, grey, taupe and aubergine
Fabric & knit: Tree bark textures, nylon, waxed or coated finishes, flannel, plaid, small-scale bicolour check and striped seersucker-effect shirtings
Print & Pattern: A splatter blot print, herringbone patterned tee, degradé striped shirtings
Details & trims: Apron fronts on soft tailored pants, scarf neckline on an SB
Footwear: Suede sneakers, laced ankle boots, rugged walking boots
Accessories: Bow ties, knitted beanies, plaid scarves, soft fisherman hats, overscaled bumbag
Louis Vuitton
A modern minimal look from Paul Helbers at Louis Vuitton, where the designer plays with reinventing classic shapes in a graphic cinematic-inspired palette.
The look: Minimalist menswear
Silhouette: Sharp and clean with minimal detailing
Key Items: Tailoring is a strong statement throughout this collection, reworked as belted wrap SBs and tuxes or with flat fly fronts and curved cutaway hemlines, all layered over collarless shirts or high-fastening vests. Seamed details add a linear touch to shirtings and suits with vertical panelling, matt-sheen fabric mixes or contrast panelled inserts. Helbers takes the season’s preoccupation with outerwear and reinvents it with puffa-style cagoules, leather puffa gilets, and parka hybrids. A padded parka hemline morphs into a tailored tuxedo jacket. Elsewhere the emphasis is on a luxe touch, with velvet trousers, tactile fur jackets and plush shearling, with an LV monogrammed velvet tux for evening
Colour: A strong graphic palette of black on black, winter white, rich espresso brown, anthracite and charcoal greys and a flash of vermilion red
Fabric & knit: A play on matt-shine fabrics sees a mix of luxe suitings, sooty black or grey velvet, satin, nylon and taffeta, leather, denim, flannel and rugged furs and shearling. Herringbone pattern knits, plated rib sweaters
Details & trims: Fur collars, velvet trims, panelling details with black-on-black matt-sheen mixes
Footwear: Mudguard soles, contrast toecap boots
Accessories: Crocodile document cases, weekend bags, plated rib scarves, bumbags and fanny packs
Dries Van Noten
David Bowie’s alter ego, The Thin White Duke, supplies the inspiration for Dries Van Noten’s playful collection, where the designer confidently twinned disparate silhouettes to great effect.
The look: Glamorous
Silhouette: Louche 40s vintage-meets-slick sportswear
Key items: The 40s-inspired louche DB suit set the scene for looks that combined slouchy tailored pleat-front pants with slick motocross jackets, zippered biker pants or an embroidered hussar’s jacket with chunky sleeveless fisherman knits, three-quarter-length tie-belt jackets with panelled skinny pants, a shawl collared blazer with voluminous cargo pants and classically-styled DB Crombies reworked with biker-style zips
Colour: Black, winter white, grey, camel, espresso and indigo with rich aubergine, a flash or cobalt and tanFabric & knit: Lush cashmere blend suiting and coatweights, tonal pinstripes and subtle banded stripes, velvet, flannel, brushed wools and mohair, rabbit and chinchilla; technical nylons; chunky heavy-gauge marled knits
Details & trims: Fur collars and revers-shaped tippets, contrast facings, biker style zips ,gold embroideryFootwear: Chunky soled boots
Accessories: Cross-body satchels on striped straps
Yohji Yamamoto
Yohji Yamamoto has no truck with trends, plying his singular vision with a Zen-like disregard for fashion. With an upcoming exhibition at London’s V&A museum this spring, that vision may be set to reach a broader appeal.
The look: Haphazard mismatched dressing
Silhouette: Voluminous and overscaled
Key Items: Voluminous throw-on coats and oversized DB suits have a dishevelled appeal, along with hiked-up paper-bag-waist trousers, high-button vests or waistcoats, chunky intarsia tunic knits and soft-collared shirts
Colour: Black, taupe and grey form the core of the palette with playful accents of cobalt and red
Fabric & knit: Softly structured tweeds add to the haphazard look, along with patchworked checks, mismatched pinstripes and chalk-striped flannels, with silk velvet adding a touch of vintage glamour
Print & pattern: Cherry and skeletal intarsia, Botticelli-style goddess prints, alpine jacquards
Details & trims: Soft tie belts on voluminous pant shapes, sequin or velvet top collars
Footwear: Laced work boots, sneakers
Accessories: Watch chains, high-crown trilbies, leather belts
Wednesday, January 19, 2011
Live From... Milan Menswear, Day 4
Z Zegna
Fabric innovation is at the core of every Zegna collection. This season instead of taking techno textiles in an experimental direction, Alessandro Sartori applies them to classic styles for a film noir 40s theme this winter. The result? Covetable, wearable clothes with all the benefits of futuristic exploration.
The look: Film noir-inspired 40s masculinity
Silhouette: Wedge - broad shoulders and tapered legs, oversized outerwear
Key items: Overblown coats in bonded techno fabrics, broad-shouldered DB suits, 40s-style tapered pants and abbreviated jackets with wide lapels are the key elements; other highlights include a shrunken cable-knit sweater, hooded windcheater top, knitted four-pocket zip-through jacket, parkas and belted macs in winter wool
Colour: Charcoal, yellow manila, golden tan, loden green, petrol blue and layered greys
Fabric & knit: Signature techno fabrics including a bonded leather that resembles neoprene and weather-proofed wool, fluffy mohair, felted wool, flannel, wool plaid and gingham checks
Details & trims: Western shirt details, spliced textiles
Footwear: Teddy Boy-style shoes with crimped soles, either slip-on or featuring a double-buckle monk strap
Accessories: Wide ties, belt bags, slim top-handled attachés, boxy luggage-style bags
DSquared
A small collection of just 31 looks offers a distilled message from the DSquared boys this season. Stripping away their usual flamboyance, Dean and Dan Caten drive home their jeans-shirt-jacket mantra for autumn/winter by stating it over and over again.
The look: Distilled DSquared
Silhouette: Stocky torsos with tapered legs
Key items: A small collection built on separates, the essential pieces comprising slim tapered jeans (some with twisted seams), a shirt in three options - classic white, blue-white striped with puritanical narrow collars, and plaid for a more casual look - are all worn with an unstructured and crumpled blazer; waistcoats and aprons act as layering pieces and long-rise leather pants offer an alternative to jeans; tailored coats arrive as fur-collared DBs or nipped-waist 3SB Crombies, while a hybrid jacket made up of a tailored wool blazer with leather biker closure, a grey cable knit sweater and a dark denim bib-front shirt are also notable
Colour: Limited to black, white, grey and faded denim blue. A single shot of khaki arrives as a casual cotton waistcoat, while cranberry-coloured scarves serve as an occasional accent
Fabric & knit: Wool blends, flannel, leather, faded and crumpled denim, plaid shirtings – some diffused, cotton, cable stitch knitPrint & pattern: Plaid shirting
Details & trims: Leather sleeves on wool coats, twisted jean seams, ruffled shirt placket, narrow collars and revers
Footwear: Ski-hook walking boots in scuffed brown leather, polished black lace-up brogues
Accessories: Fedoras with tall crowns, neckerchiefs, striped scarves, low-slung studded belts, clusters of pin badges, buckled braces, gauntlet gloves, black-framed optical
Neil Barrett
The commercial success of the "megging" (man-legging) is questionable, but the super-skinny pant offered by Barrett allows focus to fall on his strong outerwear and knitwear offer.
The look: Slick urbanwear
Silhouette: Straight and columnar, occasionally shrinking to skinny
Key items: Three trouser shapes underpin the collection – pieced neoprene-and-leather leggings, skinny tailored and tapered trousers and a voluminous 40s-style pegged pant stopping short of the ankle; outerwear staples include wide DB pea coats, slim-fit baseball jackets, funnel-neck bikers and long-line cardigan-coats; knitwear offers horizontally banded crew-neck sweaters in contrast-knit stitches, spliced striped sweaters and granddad-style Henleys; creative separates include a pieced 2SB blazer, an abbreviated parka with long fur trim and shorn sheepskin tops
Colour: Tough black, warm milk white, navy blue and flecked mid-tone greys
Fabric & knit: Neoprene, leather, flannel, pinstripe, pieced knits, shearling and rabbit
Print & pattern: Degradé knits, spliced striped knits
Details & trims: Leather shoulder patches, double-layer shawl collar, spliced and pieced constructions, topstitching
Footwear: Chunky-soled lace-up army boots with a bulbous heavy-duty toe
Accessories: Fingerless gloves, coiled knitted scarves
Giorgio Armani
Titled Remix en Gris, the winter collection from Giorgio Armani fuses his two signatures – sophistication and sport - resulting in series of hybrid pieces, such as tailored jogging bottoms, quilted waistcoats and nylon suits.
The look: Remix sports-meets-sophistication
Silhouette: Broad and masculine, longer-length coats
Key items: Naturally there is a strong emphasis on tailoring in signature comfort fits – either wide straight-legged pants or a more voluminous double-pleat option with broad-cut suit jackets; a strong sportswear influence is also evident with jersey suits, tailored jogging bottoms, thick quilted puffa jackets and secondskin fine-gauge knit tops that resemble cycling jerseys; long-length overcoats reach below the knee and options include a button-tabbed duffel, a military-esque khaki great coat with wide cloverleaf lapels and tailored DB option in silver satin; layering pieces included funnel-neck shirts, edged waistcoats (US: vests) or formal shirts-and-ties
Colour: Signature inky blues and steely silver-greys make up the core palette, while for evening jet black is punctuated with violet, hot pink and orange for shirts
Fabric & knit: Lustrous wool mohair and silk wool suitings, micro-patterned jacquards, heritage suitings including chalkstripe, plaid checks and a grainy windowpane; flannel, jersey, satin, silk velvet, cashmere blends, sporty techno nylons and quilted down-filled nylons, signature exotic leathers, plush furs and brushed suede
Details & trims: Feature revers including extra-wide clover leaf and notched shawls; quilting - diamond, horizontal banding and a Chesterfield style; concealed DB fastenings, popper-fastened suits
Footwear: Wide round-toed derby, tall lace-up boots, tasselled slip-ons with a polished/rubbed toe
Accessories: Unstructured leather totes, formal top-handled square north-south bags, leather gloves, round-framed sunglasses
The look: Film noir-inspired 40s masculinity
Silhouette: Wedge - broad shoulders and tapered legs, oversized outerwear
Key items: Overblown coats in bonded techno fabrics, broad-shouldered DB suits, 40s-style tapered pants and abbreviated jackets with wide lapels are the key elements; other highlights include a shrunken cable-knit sweater, hooded windcheater top, knitted four-pocket zip-through jacket, parkas and belted macs in winter wool
Colour: Charcoal, yellow manila, golden tan, loden green, petrol blue and layered greys
Fabric & knit: Signature techno fabrics including a bonded leather that resembles neoprene and weather-proofed wool, fluffy mohair, felted wool, flannel, wool plaid and gingham checks
Details & trims: Western shirt details, spliced textiles
Footwear: Teddy Boy-style shoes with crimped soles, either slip-on or featuring a double-buckle monk strap
Accessories: Wide ties, belt bags, slim top-handled attachés, boxy luggage-style bags
DSquared
A small collection of just 31 looks offers a distilled message from the DSquared boys this season. Stripping away their usual flamboyance, Dean and Dan Caten drive home their jeans-shirt-jacket mantra for autumn/winter by stating it over and over again.
The look: Distilled DSquared
Silhouette: Stocky torsos with tapered legs
Key items: A small collection built on separates, the essential pieces comprising slim tapered jeans (some with twisted seams), a shirt in three options - classic white, blue-white striped with puritanical narrow collars, and plaid for a more casual look - are all worn with an unstructured and crumpled blazer; waistcoats and aprons act as layering pieces and long-rise leather pants offer an alternative to jeans; tailored coats arrive as fur-collared DBs or nipped-waist 3SB Crombies, while a hybrid jacket made up of a tailored wool blazer with leather biker closure, a grey cable knit sweater and a dark denim bib-front shirt are also notable
Colour: Limited to black, white, grey and faded denim blue. A single shot of khaki arrives as a casual cotton waistcoat, while cranberry-coloured scarves serve as an occasional accent
Fabric & knit: Wool blends, flannel, leather, faded and crumpled denim, plaid shirtings – some diffused, cotton, cable stitch knitPrint & pattern: Plaid shirting
Details & trims: Leather sleeves on wool coats, twisted jean seams, ruffled shirt placket, narrow collars and revers
Footwear: Ski-hook walking boots in scuffed brown leather, polished black lace-up brogues
Accessories: Fedoras with tall crowns, neckerchiefs, striped scarves, low-slung studded belts, clusters of pin badges, buckled braces, gauntlet gloves, black-framed optical
Neil Barrett
The commercial success of the "megging" (man-legging) is questionable, but the super-skinny pant offered by Barrett allows focus to fall on his strong outerwear and knitwear offer.
The look: Slick urbanwear
Silhouette: Straight and columnar, occasionally shrinking to skinny
Key items: Three trouser shapes underpin the collection – pieced neoprene-and-leather leggings, skinny tailored and tapered trousers and a voluminous 40s-style pegged pant stopping short of the ankle; outerwear staples include wide DB pea coats, slim-fit baseball jackets, funnel-neck bikers and long-line cardigan-coats; knitwear offers horizontally banded crew-neck sweaters in contrast-knit stitches, spliced striped sweaters and granddad-style Henleys; creative separates include a pieced 2SB blazer, an abbreviated parka with long fur trim and shorn sheepskin tops
Colour: Tough black, warm milk white, navy blue and flecked mid-tone greys
Fabric & knit: Neoprene, leather, flannel, pinstripe, pieced knits, shearling and rabbit
Print & pattern: Degradé knits, spliced striped knits
Details & trims: Leather shoulder patches, double-layer shawl collar, spliced and pieced constructions, topstitching
Footwear: Chunky-soled lace-up army boots with a bulbous heavy-duty toe
Accessories: Fingerless gloves, coiled knitted scarves
Giorgio Armani
Titled Remix en Gris, the winter collection from Giorgio Armani fuses his two signatures – sophistication and sport - resulting in series of hybrid pieces, such as tailored jogging bottoms, quilted waistcoats and nylon suits.
The look: Remix sports-meets-sophistication
Silhouette: Broad and masculine, longer-length coats
Key items: Naturally there is a strong emphasis on tailoring in signature comfort fits – either wide straight-legged pants or a more voluminous double-pleat option with broad-cut suit jackets; a strong sportswear influence is also evident with jersey suits, tailored jogging bottoms, thick quilted puffa jackets and secondskin fine-gauge knit tops that resemble cycling jerseys; long-length overcoats reach below the knee and options include a button-tabbed duffel, a military-esque khaki great coat with wide cloverleaf lapels and tailored DB option in silver satin; layering pieces included funnel-neck shirts, edged waistcoats (US: vests) or formal shirts-and-ties
Colour: Signature inky blues and steely silver-greys make up the core palette, while for evening jet black is punctuated with violet, hot pink and orange for shirts
Fabric & knit: Lustrous wool mohair and silk wool suitings, micro-patterned jacquards, heritage suitings including chalkstripe, plaid checks and a grainy windowpane; flannel, jersey, satin, silk velvet, cashmere blends, sporty techno nylons and quilted down-filled nylons, signature exotic leathers, plush furs and brushed suede
Details & trims: Feature revers including extra-wide clover leaf and notched shawls; quilting - diamond, horizontal banding and a Chesterfield style; concealed DB fastenings, popper-fastened suits
Footwear: Wide round-toed derby, tall lace-up boots, tasselled slip-ons with a polished/rubbed toe
Accessories: Unstructured leather totes, formal top-handled square north-south bags, leather gloves, round-framed sunglasses
