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Dean and Dan Caten may have cited Cold Mountain as the inspiration for their 19th century American pioneer women, whose cattle-drawn wagons and icy landscape provided this season’s theatrical backdrop, but the stylistic link to Oscar-nominated film True Grit seems an altogether more timely connection. Whatever the reference, the look was heavily themed and heavily costumed, but when distilled essentially focused on the brand’s core offer of white shirts, dirty jeans and nipped jackets.
The look: True Grit pioneers
Silhouette: Fitted bodies, maxi lengths
Key items: Most looks were built from a few core staples - tapered or slim cropped jeans, high-collared white shirts or puff-sleeved shirts in leather with dirty denim, short nipped-waist tailored jackets or shrunken bikers, topped with a floor-sweeping maxi coat. The maxi coats were star pieces, arriving in rugged fox, as a fur-lined parka, and flannel or leather fit-and-flare great coats. Elsewhere there were wide-leg paper-bag-waist pants, bias-cut or twisted-seam maxiskirts and fringed blankets and knitted shawls wrapped as cosy layers
Colour: Black, dark denim blue, white and grey, with accents of dusky rose pink and maroon
Fabric & knit: Dirtied and faded denims, washed leathers, crumpled wools, flannel, cotton shirting, corduroy; furs including coyote, fox and castor
Details & trims: Leg-of-mutton sleeves, black ribbon bows, bib-fronted shirts, paper-bag waists, wool blanket fringing, fur collars, faded and washed treatments, crumpled finishes
Footwear: Lace-up ice-skate boots
Accessories: Suede gauntlet gloves, long leather gloves, studded belts, paper-bag girdles with over belts and braces (US: suspenders), leather tubular cord belts, fur clutch bags, coloured crystal jewellery and brooches, ten-gallon hats
Just Cavalli
While other designers are tempering the runaway 70s trend, at Just Cavalli it was still in full swing, and joyously so. It was an upbeat and youthful mix of ditsy prints and floaty layers, double-denim looks and swishy goat-hair jackets, which made for a delicious cocktail of kooky girlishness.
The look: Kooky prim
Silhouette: Loose 70s-style tiers and layers, strong-shouldered tailoring and midi lengths
Key items: There was a girlish sweetness to the tiered dresses, ruffled bib-front blouses and wide-legged blouson jumpsuits, which was offset with prim pieces updated with kooky twists such as the box-pleated midi-length skirts that paired with cropped tweed tees. Double-denim looks were clearly 70s-inspired - a longline jean jacket lined in curly Mongolian lamb worn with boot-cut jeans, or the A-line button-through midiskirt in degradé denim paired with a light-wash western shirt. Also 70s-inspired were the goat-hair coats and jackets - either as cropped chubbies or full-length maxis. Tailored pantsuits comprised oversized jackets with a broad shoulderline, and either swishy wide-leg pants or snug-fitting cropped capris
Colour: Blush pinks, blonde camel and old gold; 70s shades of grenadine, golden ochre and clotted cream, with purple with red colour-blocked brights; inky washes of degradé denim blues
Fabric & knit: Grainy tweeds juxtaposed with printed crepe de chine and silk cadi; woollen grayscale plaids, a heavy kingfisher blue and old gold floral jacquard, powdery sky-blue suede, washed and degradé denim, delicate floral lace, wet-look all-over sequins in black or gold; Mongolian lamb, shearling, kidassia goat hair Print & pattern: A great collection for print - small-scale patterns including ditsy florals on a grid check, cherries and berries on mismatched light/dark grounds; leopard and snake animalia, paisley
Details & trims: Girlish collars in contrast colours (sometime detachable), satin tubular cord bow belts and trims, eyelet-threaded lacing, ruffled tiers and faux layers, bell-shaped sleeve cuffs, frilled heart bib, uneven squiggly necklines and hems, sheer lace inserts, panelling, wavy scalloped edges on denim pieces
Footwear: Heeled penny loafers with riveted stud platforms, also in a peep-toe version; heeled or flat suede shoes with string ankle-straps
Accessories: Flat brooches and necklace pendants of butterfly or floral motifs, octagonal or square wood bangles decorated with modular steel elements; chain-strapped bags (carried as clutches) in tweed with striped fur tails, leopard-print clutches; oversized round-framed 70s-style sunglasses
Giorgio Armani
After his all-black showing for Emporio earlier in the week, Giorgio Armani lightened his palette with delicate touches of skin and blush pinks. That softer hand turned also to shape, with a concentration on fluid shapes with an uber-feminine fluted swing.
The look: Graceful femininity
Silhouette: Fluted swing or elongated layered bias columns
Key items: The two fluted zip-through frock coats that opened the show signalled a focus on fluidity and movement, followed through with the swishy bell-flared cropped pants or wide-legged trousers that underpinned most looks. Sinuous lines continued with Armani’s signature convex peplums and a new swingy ripple hem on longer-line jackets, balloon-hemmed tunic tops that peeked out from under the clouds of marabou-feathered chubbies, and the crinoline-shaped mididresses and coats. Tailoring highlights included slimline DB jackets with a flattering cutaway closure, which also appeared on funnel-necked evening jackets later. For evening there were organza petal boleros and silk fringed wraps over languid silk dresses, strappy flared tunics and drapey caped velvet tops, layered over the same wide-leg pants as before
Colour: Signature onyx and industrial grey were given a lighter touch, with blush skin pinks and barely there beige, moonlight silver and a single shot of cognac
Fabric & knit: Ribbed velvet, watery silks and satins - some in glitter finishes, organza sheers, chiffon, fine lace, panne velvet, lustrous silk-wool suitings in plaid and micro pied de poule (houndstooth); shaved mink, marabou, goat trims
Print & pattern: Overblown monochrome portrait print
Details & trims: Braiding, intricate and heavily worked bead and crystal embroideries, sequin stripes on sheer, long silk fringing, organza petals, sheer organza trims on velvet evening jackets; string straps, watery drapes, sculpted convex peplums, undulating rippled jacket hems
Footwear: Snakeskin peep-toe Mary Janes, ankle boots with lace appliqué, lace sandal boots
Accessories: Large jewelled earrings, pearl-studded silver heart brooches, glitter resin bangles stacked in minimising size; thin satin envelope clutches, squashy clutch bags in pearlescent pink leather and snakeskin day bags
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