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Stella McCartney
It should have been Stella McCartney’s moment, her signature masculine/feminine looks perfectly chiming with the trends seen elsewhere this season, and while she sent out a mix of mannish tailoring and demure ladylike dresses, their overscaled proportions made them somehow a little wide of the mark that defines those must-have-items of the season.
The look: Masculine/feminine
Silhouette: Overscaled and voluminous, contrasted with body-con for evening
Key items: The oversized blazer was the most obvious item in the collection, coming with Incredible Hulk shoulderlines, balancing slimmer bottomweights. That same sense of volume coloured an elongated blouson jacket worked in blister-quilted gold, while a more refined look came into play for the rounded tuxedo-inspired coat in milky-white cashmere. Dresses and tops veered between deep plunging necklines to round-necked demure, covered-up looks, worked in plissé effects or sturdy knit structures with exaggerated sleeve detailing. High-waisted pants and sensible knee-length pencil skirts were the perfect anchor points for the collection’s simple shell tops, while for those after-six moments, a series of appliquéd spotted sheers in black or white, with trompe l’oeil bustier dresses sporting revealing sheer panels and flirty peplum bodices, or a standout midnight-blue bonded velvet sheath with a cut-in halter neckline
Colour: A very concise palette of black, with shades of white from optic through to milk and ivory, deep sapphire blue, gold
Fabrics & knits: Plissé organza, satin and crepe de chine, bonded velvet, cashmere coatweights, wet-look finishes, metallic blister quilting, sheer tulle
Print & pattern: A photoreal print in black and white, or black and gold
Details & trims: Fabric-blocking
Footwear: Patent loafers, high-vamp heeled pumps
Accessories: Round clutch bags to mirror the collection’s spot theme, boxy clutch bags
Emanuel Ungaro
It seems aeons ago that the beleaguered house of Ungaro had a signature handwriting, having undergone many transformations since its eponymous creator bowed out of the fashion spotlight. It remains to be seen whether its latest creative director, Giles Deacon, will be the man to bring the house back as a force on the Paris schedule. For his second RTW showing for the house, he opted for a sexed-up vixen theme that debunked fashion’s new mood for a more demure look, with his come-thither sheers and brash silhouettes, which despite having the hand of the best ateliers in the business - Lesage embroideries and Solstiss lace - had an uncomfortable sense of bling, rather than the discreet stealth wealth that is the mood of the moment.
The look: Sex-vixen party girl
Silhouette: Strictly body-con
Key items: It was second-skin all the way for everything from micro-minidresses to dare-to-bare all-in-ones, all worked in degrees of transparencies, from all-over embroidered sheers to lace and satin panelled sheath dresses. Whether this party girl ever sees the light of day is debatable, but if she did she would wear Deacon’s skinny leather jeans with their dimensional fringed effects and exposed-zip fly, maybe teamed with a decorative chunky knit or a bling-bling crystal-embellished sweatshirt. Alternatively, she may throw a bonded leather boxy jacket over her heavily beaded miniskirt and sheer top. And for those seriously hot dates, printed satin sculpted dresses, a peekaboo velvet sheath with feather-trimmed back and burn-out sleeves, coloured fox chubbies, and a zipped-through lace all-in-one that would be more at home in the boudoir than the red carpet.
Colour: Black, jade green, turquoise, blush pink
Fabric & knit: Velvet, bonded leather, fringed leather, satin, chiffon, marabou, dyed fox, lace
Print & pattern: A wolf and eagle motif worked in embellished crystals, a photoreal feather print, a swirling smoky effect all-over
Details & trims: Exposed zips, crystal beading, gold embroidery
Footwear: Satin mesh heeled T-bars
Accessories: Metal collars, fingerless beaded gloves
Yves Saint Laurent
After the day’s bling excesses and the plays on exaggerated proportions seen elsewhere, it was down to Stefano Pilati to lead the way and show why Paris remains the crème de la crème on the RTW schedule, with his impeccably worked collection full of oh-so-subtle 60s and 70s archival references - a timely reminder of the history of this house, with the opening of the Yves Saint Laurent retrospective at the Petit Palais on Friday March 11.
The look: Subtle 60s/70s
Silhouette: Neatly tailored, glamorously sophisticated, and fluid for evening
Key items: Neat tailored coats and suits had a gamine boyish appeal that chimes with the season’s masculine/feminine mood, with knee-length coats and low-breakpoint DBs teamed with demure pleated skirts. Caped coats and boxy fabric-blocked jackets, knee-length skirts and cropped cigarette pants, high-necked satin blouses and colour-blocked black and white tailoring continued the theme, along with a nod to the season’s hottest dress shape - the drop-waist shift, here with a patent bodice and cobalt blue-banded Prince of Wales check skirt. Evening was a purist affair, with a perfectly tailored white pantsuit offering a masculine slant on PM dressing, offset with gently draped bustier dresses falling from a sheer halter neckline, flowing palazzo pants and sheer halter tops, and a show-stopping finale of fluttering marabou and shimmering silk crepe that was the pure DNA of the house
Colour: A focused palette of black, white and grey, with piercing accents of ultraviolet and cobalt blue
Fabric & knit: The collection was an affirmation of the importance of checks for next season, as Pilati deconstructed and reworked classic Prince of Wales plaids and dogtooth checks into myriad variations on a theme, offset with wet-look, crystal-studded patent, cashmere, chiffon, silk crepe, marabou, mink and fox
Print & pattern: Prince of Wales check worked as a print
Details & trims: Fur trims, colour-blocking, chain trims, beaded chain links
Footwear: Over-knee boots, tasselled heeled loafers, heeled shooties, vampy ankle-strap platforms for evening
Accessories: Triple chain belts, chain necklaces, white belts, clutch bags, short gloves in black or white
Giambattista Valli
Fifties and 60s couture are usual hallmarks for Giambattista Valli, but for winter the designer turned a little more graphic, with boxy structures and short, youthful lengths. His monochrome palette, injected with neon brights, accentuated the streamlined shapes, while prints inspired by Flemish still-life paintings added just the right amount of contrast to keep it all fresh and new.
The look: Graphic eleganceSilhouette: Short and boxy
Key items: Short thigh-high shift dresses were littered throughout the collection; for day they arrived either simple and sleeveless, or with clipped cap sleeves, while for dressier styling there was a printed option with a swagged one-shoulder drape, or a couple with upward-facing fan-like ruffles arching at the waist. Luxe coats were another key focus and largely they were collarless with fly-front closures, some with two-tone panels, while an hourglass-shaped broadtail coat with goat-trimmed shoulders made a statement highlight. Cropped jackets, capes and shell tops in a shorter length than seen elsewhere this season were layered atop either A-line skirts, tulip skirts or slim cigarette pants, the latter with a high banded waist. Other pant shapes included tight treggings or long straight-cut tailored trousers, both flat-front, while for eveningwear – always a core focus for Valli – we saw ovoid maxiskirts paired with shell tops or tanks for that Jil Sander-style demi-couture look, or red-carpet-worthy gowns with huge dotted tulle skirts
Colour: Monochrome black, white and grey, with zingy splashes of sulphur yellow, hot pink and bright vermilion red
Fabric & knit: Compact tweeds, wool crepe, silk twill, semi-sheer knit, satin, silver jacquard, striped jacquard, cloqué, chiffon, dotted tulle; glossy broadtail, dyed mink, white goat hair
Print & pattern: Painterly Flemish-style still-life placements – a vase of tulips in yellow on black in grade shading, a bowl of fruit in grey on black or pink/red on white
Details & trims: Raised shoulders (sleeveless) revealing jewelled shoulder pads, puffed shoulder panels and skirt peplum, upward-facing fan-like ruffles, Peter Pan collars, banded waists, high jewel necklines, panelled or banded hems, raglan sleeves, super-sheer side panels creating illusionary hourglass shaping, one-shouldered drape; black-on-black cluster beading, random splotch-like lace beaded appliqués, cluster-beaded sleeve cuffs
Footwear: Patent loafers with a grosgrain over-strap and low mirrored heel, high-heeled calf-length boots in black patent leather or black satin decorated with clusters of black beads, silver leather courts (US: pumps) with black satin heel
Accessories: Articulated bracelets and short necklaces with faceted mirrored jewels
Vanessa Bruno
The look: Soft grunge
Silhouette: Casual, thrown-together layers
Key items: It was all about layering here, with core pieces including loose-fit shirts and peasant blouses, draped wrap dresses and split skirts with uneven hems, chunky cardigans or sloppy jumpers, and oversized outerwear including large blanket coats, pieced-suede duster jackets, and sweeping maxi coats. Elsewhere there were high-waisted wide-leg trousers in cotton velvet, paired with snug-fitting tailored jackets with an asymmetrical closure fastened with a single tiny metal clasp, and a passage of breezy draped dresses in billowing midi lengths.
Colour: Layered neutrals - white, taupe and cream; khaki, cognac, dark slate grey with dusty pink and emerald green
Fabric & knit: Cotton including white poplin and a grey plaid, boiled wool, metallic micro-patterned jacquard, silk, warm suede, cotton velvet, fluffy open-mesh knits, chunky rustic knits, looped wool stitches, faux fur
Print & pattern: Trompe l’oeil mesh print, hand-rendered sketch print with delicate tints of washed colour
Details & trims: Blanket-stitched edges, knitted sleeves and crocheted cuffs, satin edge trims, crafty wool or fur appliqué diamond patches, embroidered cutwork borders, fur collars, paper-bag waists
Footwear: Calf-length suede boots and platform leather boots with slouchy suede leg well
Accessories: Ribbed slouch socks, casual bags in tweed or woven leather
Chloé
After making simplicity her calling card at Chloé, Hannah MacGibbon broke out of that self-imposed aesthetic yesterday with a collection that maxed out on snakeskin and ventured into new colour territories. It was a bold move, considering rumours of a contract termination are circling, and one that not entirely paid off. The colour was clunky, the snakeskin overused and her successful 70s signatures lost in all the madness.
The look: Casual 70s stylingSilhouette: Soft and loose
Key items: The collection was full of MacGibbon-for-Chloé staples, including long-sleeved midi-length 70s-style dresses, ruffle-necked shirts, capes and ponchos, and 70s pant shapes - this season pleat-fronted and super wide. There were also a couple of pairs of questionable dungarees and a tracksuit in suede and leather. More successful were the colour-blocked sweaters, neat silk shirts, denim gauchos and classic trench coats; also notable were the vertically panelled pants, although perhaps only for their similarity to former Chloé girl Phoebe Philo’s two-season staples at Céline
Colour: Signature neutrals - putty grey, beige and mink, with rich tan and mahogany browns. New colour usage - Crayola primaries of red, yellow and blue, with a shot of jade green
Fabric & knit: Snakeskin, supple leather, warm suede, super-fine chiffon, satin, felted wool, ribbed knits in chunky and medium gauges
Print & pattern: Snakeskin on chiffon and satin, paisley on yellow ground
Details & trims: Colour-blocking, spliced snakeskin striped panels, leather whip-stitching, shirring, ruffled necks and collars, long leather string fringing
Footwear: Platform wedge mules, chunky courts (US: pumps) in snakeskin, chunky block-heeled sandals with nail-head studs, patent T-bar shoes with ribbon bow
Accessories: Tan leather bucket bags, some with colour-blocked pockets, whip-stitched suede satchels; narrow snakeskin-print scarves, leather scarves
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