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Hermès
A new broom at Hermes, as Christophe Lemaire took the design helm for his debut collection, where he steered the house on a journey through Asia, drawing influences along the way with his Oriental-inspired silhouettes, representing a sharp change of direction from the signature equestrian themes played out by his predecessor, Jean Paul Gaultier. And a smart move indeed, given the new shift in territories for the luxury-goods sector.
The look: Urban oriental
Silhouette: Elongated and unstructured
Key items: Long fluid silhouettes permeated everything from simple tunics and kaftan-shaped dresses to fluid throw-on coats and kimono jackets, creating a luxurious, casually slouchy look. Big loopy knitted coats added texture, layered over skinny leather pants and matching knitted layers defined by leather binding details. The house’s heritage came through in the luxe leather dresses and fluid calfskin blousons or the supple suede tunics, while Lemaire addressed print and pattern with his scarf-print silk dresses and separates, or in the big cocooning patchwork jewel-coloured coat. He worked tailoring into the mix too, with leather-trimmed low-break DB tuxedos, and for evening, flowing kurtas and draped sarouel pants
Colour: Luxurious winter whites and camel-toned neutrals, with intense cognac browns, deep mallard green, lacquer red and jade
Fabric & knit: An obvious roster of luxe-touch fabrics, with cashmere, calfskin, nappa leathers and buttery suede, teamed with shearling, flat quilting, satin and silk. Knits came as tactile chenilles or big, weightless looped structures
Print & pattern: Signature house scarf prints intoning geometrics; a vivid patchwork print; a python print
Details & trims: Topstitching, plaited leather integrated belt straps
Footwear: Suede or leather knee-length boots, chunky metallic platform sandal boots
Accessories: Chinoiserie-inspired pendant, lacquered bracelets, obi-sashes, tasselled belts
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