Live From... Paris Fashion Week, Day 6

Kenzo

The light-up set in carnival colours, Mexican soundtrack and the laser-cut skull invite may have hinted at a Day of the Dead theme, but when the collection arrived in a palette of muted, almost grungy earth tones, it made for a puzzling connection. Adding to the confusion, Kenzo designer Antonio Marras then referenced three women as muses - an American, an Italian and, thankfully, a Mexican. And yet the thread that bound all this and the collection itself together remained a mystery. “I started with three different women - Tina Modotti, Georgia O’Keeffe and Frida Kahlo - and tried to tell their intimate life by using no bright colours and a special print with flowers and stripes, cut with a Chantilly lace,” said Marras. “I chose lace because it is closest to the intimacies of a woman.”

The look: Muted Mexican romance

Silhouette: Floaty with elongated layers

Key items: Floaty printed maxidresses - some sleeveless, others with peasant sleeves - were layered beneath midi-length sweater dresses, patchworked cardigan coats, longline gilets and masculine tailored jackets. Outerwear was heavy duty, contrasting with the delicate dresses - sleeveless parkas, horn-toggled duffels and embroidered duster coats, the latter layered over a knitted twinset comprising midi-length skirt and turtleneck sweater. Elsewhere there were shrug-on cardis with waterfall closures, midi-length kilts, wide mannish slacks and chiffon tunic-length shirts

Colours: A dark, earthy palette of moss and pine greens with touches of yellow ochre; faux nude and burnt browns with grenadine; dusty rose and burgundy with black

Fabric & knit: Printed chiffons and silk, spotted Swiss voile, cashmere, striped or plaid wools, Chantilly lace, floral brocade, torsade, jacquard, sheepskin, kidassia, rabbit, flecked wools and hand knits

Print & pattern: Chintzy country florals in muted tones, large painterly blooms, diffused checked effects, paisley leaves, bi-colour stripes; knitted and woven patterns included Argyle diamonds, a creeping floral with bird, zigzag stripes, masculine stripes, jacquards with two patterns/colourways that bleed into one another

Details & trims: Lace frills and inserts, exposed bras at the back of dresses, frilled cape sleeves, beading and embroideries over masculine fabrics, patchworked knits, waterfall closures

Footwear: Cuban-heeled chelsea boots or ankle boots, with studded criss-cross straps or fold-down tongues

Accessories: Weekend bag in fur, studded handbags, floral printed small formal handbags

Posted in: A/W 2011/12,Kenzo,Paris Fashion Week