Live From... Paris Fashion Week, Day 6

John Galliano

It all could have been reduced to limpid clothes hung forlornly on rails, but as if saying thank you for everything up until the implosion, Sidney Toledano - present in person - brought to life the presentation of Galliano’s fall collection in an intimate salon-style show. The grandeur of the setting - gilt furnishings, draped red velvet, huge floral arrangements, twinkling chandeliers and the intoxicating scent of Galliano’s Diptyque candles - may have evoked the presence of the designer, but the quietness that stilled the room brought appreciation and sadness in equal measure.

The look: 1930s couture

Silhouette: Nipped waists and blouson volume, languid bias drapes for evening

Key items: Expertly cut tailleurs consisting of cropped, nipped-waist tweed jackets - one with wool-fringed cuffs and a taffeta puff-ball skirt, another in houndstooth with a sexy cutaway back teamed with a latex pencil skirt. That subversive Galliano twist followed through to a black latex trench coat with organza back panel, layered over a short lacy slip dress. Coats included a ruffle-fronted wrap in plaid tweed, a cream cocoon with tall fur collar, and a lace-trimmed kimono coat in the palest jade-green silk. Signature diaphanous gowns in delicate sheers arrived for evening, including two halterneck options and a black-sleeved gown embellished with jet beads and wispy marabou fringe

Colour: Grey, black, cream and warm mink brown, with jade and emerald greens, lilac and amethyst, bois de rose and palest boudoir pink

Fabric & knit: Slubby tweeds including micro houndstooth, latex, taffeta, organza, chiffon, silk, luxe furs and marabou

Print & pattern: Shattered abstract on sheer, a stencilled paisley teardrop as a placement border, a floral of X-rayed roses

Details & trims: Exposed backs, wool fringing, covered buttons, arrow-head appliqué on sheer, illustrative stitch quilting, lace trims, bows, marabou fringe, fur collars, jet beading, micro embroideries

Footwear: Multi-strapped heels with ankle straps linked with padlocked chains and fine brogue punching

Accessories: Multi-strand chain belts decorated with heart-shaped padlock charms

Posted in: A/W 2011/12,John Galliano,Paris Fashion Week