Live From... Paris Fashion Week, Day 6

Givenchy

An uncomfortable subversive mood ran through the Givenchy collection, where Riccardo Tisci forsook his signature religious-gothic iconography in favour of getting down and dirty with street-inspired looks, borrowing heavily from designers such as Christopher Kane and 80s Versace, but without either of those designers’ finesse.

The look: Subversive

Silhouette: Casual layers

Key items: The pencil skirt anchored the collection, worked in sheers to layer under thigh-high leather skating skirts, or in printed satin with revealing sheer panels. That same subversive peekaboo mood ran through to the bra tops peeping through sheer mannish shirts, sometimes teamed with a patent- trimmed narrow tuxedo jacket and skinny pencil skirt. Blouson-shaped jackets, collegiate jackets and satin sweatshirts brought a street vibe into play, anchored with Versace-esque chain prints or a glowering panther-head motif. Retro pin-up Bettie Page was another print motif, encircled with a wreath of pansies - a flower head that was repeated as a colourful all-over print on everything from woven sweats to blouson jackets and matching pencil skirts. And for evening, printed tunic tops with jewel-scattered sheer skirts, fluffy mohair knits, sheer tees and Versace-ish patterned skirts

Colour: Black, poison green, purple, canary yellow

Fabric & knit: Satin, sheer organza, leather, mink, patent, silk, mohair knits

Print & pattern: Panthers and pansies, orchids, Bettie Page motifs

Details & trims: Jewelled studs, jewelled collars

Footwear: Gold trimmed patent or satin courts

Accessories: Baseball caps, catseye glasses

Posted in: A/W 2011/12,Givenchy,Paris Fashion Week