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Louis Vuitton
The final day of Paris saw an S&M extravaganza from Marc Jacobs for Louis Vuitton, with the designer taking a tongue-in-chic 30s-style romp through what looked like the Frederick's of Hollywood back-catalogue. The collection combined demure Peter Pan-collared dresses with subversive transparent pencil skirts, Night Porter-style sheer jodhpurs and strict military patent trench coats. Add a sumptuous 30s deco setting, complete with uniformed bellhops and Kate Moss smouldering down the runway, and you have a sex-on-legs collection that put a touch of raunchy razzamatazz into an early Wednesday morning showing.
The look: Deco sex sirens
Silhouette: Strictly hourglass
Key items: The patent wasp-waisted corset was the tipping point for a collection that teamed sheer organza shirts and skirts and Night Porter-style jodhpurs with strict pencil skirts and waist-cinched patent trench coats, rubberised lace maid’s dresses and strict sheath dresses in washed suede and feathers. Overscaled masculine tailored jackets and coats with big sloping shoulders were whittled to hand-span-width waists and tongue-in-cheek, butter-wouldn’t-melt buttoned-up dresses were teamed with Sunday-best white collars, a subversive fetish conversational print and big, childlike buttons. There were lingerie-inspired looks too in the knitted all-in-ones, while coats were big and cocooning with patent-trimmed Mongolian lamb. For evening, shards of glittering paillettes worked for simple A-line skirts and little shell tops
Colour: Rich darks such as bottle and damson were offset with black, white, midnight and grey with accents of blood red and cobalt blue
Fabric & knit: Sumptuous if incongruous mixes of washed suede, patent leather, moulded techno fabrics, feathers, dyed Mongolian lamb, cashmere and tweed
Print & pattern: A quirky conversational print of fetish motifs worked in dark grounds or matt-shine black-on-black colourways
Details & trims: White Peter Pan collars, big childlike buttons, contrast piping, gold buttons, velvet trims
Footwear: Subversive high-heeled rubber boots, high-heeled ankle-strap pumps, high laced boots
Accessories: Rubber gloves, sheer hold-up stockings, Night Porter military caps, fur muffs, fur LV bags, bucket bags, winter white patent bags, sequinned blindfolds
Miu Miu
The look: 40s
Silhouette: Strong-shouldered wedge
Key items: Coats were drop-waisted and wedge-shaped, tapering to the knee from a strong squared shoulderline, some accentuated with mink shoulder details; there were also shorter boxy DBs and others with an exaggerated domed shoulder. Long-sleeved dresses were pinched at the natural or dropped waistline, and sometimes layered with short peplum skirts in dense wool or a twisted mink cumberbund, while a sporty passage in the middle of the collection offered pencil skirts topped with elongated sweatshirts, and a luxe tracksuit comprising an abbreviated sweatshirt worn with tailored jogging pants
Colour: Black, white, rust, mustard, navy and taupe
Fabric & knit: Cashmere, flannel, wool, compact tweed, silk, natural-colour brown mink
Print & pattern: Swallows - a revisited motif for Miu Miu - were rendered in a painterly effect; sprays of white flowers - lily of the valley, daisies and dandelion clocks
Details & trims: Shoulderlines were either strong and square, or rounded via a tapered 40s-style leg-of-mutton sleeve; pointed collars, off-centre coat closures, grosgrain ribbons, twisted mink cumberbunds and mink shoulder details, pinched ruching on dresses at natural or dropped waistlines, sequinned floral embroideries for evening looks
Footwear: Glittery peep-toe booties, ankle-strapped shoes with a folded fin
Accessories: Oversized pip-clasp purses, baseball caps, tortoiseshell or glitter resin-framed sunglasses
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