Burberry Prorsum
Christopher Bailey confidently strode out in a new direction for spring/summer, leaving far behind his recent preccupation with military looks in a collection celebrating handcrafted artisanal detailing. It was one of his best to date, as quirky homespun individuality replaced the homogenised face of the global fashion industry.
The look: Artisan at work
Silhouette: Oversized and relaxed
Key items: Bailey's lean military jackets are left behind in favour of easy oversized parkas, DB trench coats, cropped boxy anoraks and wide-cut duffels – all featuring some sort of quirky detailing, like handcrafted wooden toggles and natural horn buttons. Tailored jackets come with casual patch pockets and trouser shapes err on the soft and relaxed, with high-waisted belted silhouettes and pleated carrot-leg effects. Knits and shirtings lend themselves to the designer's preoccupation with all things artisanal, with beaded Fair Isles, DB Aran knit cardigans, blanket stitch or raffia-trimmed cropped knits and boxy shirts with appliquéd felt bird trims, as well as a raft of colourful African-style ikat prints. And watch the impact on the high street of the relaxed-neck patterned tees. Expect to see crochet and beadng replace conventional T-shirt graphics any day soon
Colour: A rich palette that combines low-key brights with vegetable-dye styled darks. Think mossy greens, conker browns, clove, beetroot reds, garnet, indigo and dark peacock undercut with emerald, chrome yellow, violet, clementine, bright Oxford blue and amber
Fabric & knit: Classic gaberdine, broken twill, chambray linen, compact cotton poplins and compact double-wool linen blends sit side by side with coated nylon canvas, bonded leather, waxed printed cotton, denim, garment-washed linen raffia, striped jacquard and beaded Fair Isle knits
Print & pattern: Ikat patterns, bold naive abstract prints with a handcrafted ethnic feel
Details & trims: The whole collection is based on detailing, with simple homespun techniques like hand-crochet wooden beads worked as collars and trims, hand-shredded raffia, crochet raffia detachable collars, crochet trims on tees, felted appliqué and hand-crafted wooden buttons or toggles along with more functional utility details like drawcord hems, button guards, storm hoods and press studs
Footwear: Bailey brings artisanal looks into play with his cork-soled moccasins and loafers, trimed with tapestry
Accessories: A raft of woven and plaited leathers for tote bags, linen crested totes, crochet raffia caps, acetate sunglasses
7:20 AM
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