Live From... Milan Fashion Week, Day 1

Costume National Homme 

             

The roots of rock n’roll struck a cord with Ennio Capasa for his spring/summer Costume National Homme collection, marching to a rockabilly beat that riffed on subtle 50s infuences.

The look: 50s rock 'n' roll

Silhouette: Easy draped tailoring and 50s-style casual pieces

Key items: Tailoring mirrored the easy swaggered drape of the original Teddy Boy jacket, with easy longer-line 2SBs teamed with a straight-cut rolled-cuff pant. Elsewhere proportions are truncated with Capasa's riff on the shirt, which here comes as a fly-fronted short-sleeved jacket hybrid, cut to the waist and with raglan sleeve details, it is perfectly matched to tapered pleat-front relaxed fit pants, while a super-short cropped biker continues the look. Other key items include throw-on trench coats, collarles boxy jackets, classic fine-gauge knits and micro-collared shirts, all worked with a 50s vintage aesthetic

Colour: A muted level of tonal greys, warm taupes, black and conker punctuated with a single shot of vivid vermilion red

Fabric & knit: Micro check suitings, window-pane checks, washed linen blends, super-fine knits, leather, cottons, jersey

Print & pattern: Spots for ties, a bi-olour optical pattern on tees

Details & trims: Contrast top collars on suiting, piped breast pocket, red buttonholes on tailoring, raglan sleeves, subtle colour-blocking

Footwear: Classic brothel creepers in black and white or red and black with plaited uppers

Accessories: Contrast belts in vermilion or white, canvas holdalls

Posted in: Costume National Homme,menswear,Milan Fashion Week,S/S 12